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Official "Ball Joint" lowering topic
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Chris333
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 16, 2019 1:35 pm    Post subject: Re: Official "Ball Joint" lowering topic Reply with quote

Yes I have shocks. Cut the lower shock mounts off and flipped them along with the arms. The upper mounts were cobbled up. The shocks are Corvette length I think,
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Here is the "build thread" https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=683868&sid=707d320e77a9c3137c19dd5968eb7ca5

To do a tranny lift after the mounts and shifter it is mostly sheet metal work. I've never done it, but it would have been easier before I re-built the whole car.
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L51C_75
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 11, 2019 8:36 pm    Post subject: Re: Monroe shock with more travel Reply with quote

Cutman wrote:
I have a 73 Std Beetle, 4" narrowed/adj, lowered bj, and drop spindles. Got it all built and installed in the car. Once I got the beam mounted I had to raise the adjusters to max to get enough for ground clearance and a good look. I must have slightly (unintentionally) rotated an adjuster when welding. Anyways, it sits like I wanted and has some ground clearance. What I ran into was the shocks bottoming out. I bought a new set of stock shocks since I was running drop spindles. I had about 1/2" of downward travel with them before the shocks bottom out. With shocks removed I can bounce the car until the beam hits the ground. Oh well, it is what it is but I needed shocks. Did tons of reading on this sight. The Opel shocks only offer about 1.5" of up travel and down travel lets me bounce on the road. I thought better for the shock to bottom out than keep slamming the road. This is for my specific car based on my assembly of the beam. After time on the phone and with the NAPA guy we came up with a Monroe 37031 (Toyota truck) length 16.375 ext and 10.5 compressed.
https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=118296
Compared to the VW at 16.75/14.125
https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=118092

I took a leap that these won't be too stiff and ordered them from rockauto when I found I could get a pair shipped ($30) for less than one at NAPA. I will give an evaluation of the shocks when they get here.
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Wondering if there was an update on the Monroe 37031 Toyota shock or KYB 344054 equivalent. I see the Opel GT shock 344098 are referenced a lot, interestingly if you search this part number on kyb's website, it show's the shock as being used in Mazda B2200 front shocks. Based on this cross reference, I found a set of Monroe shocks for B2200 (part number 32217) on Amazon for $10/each so I figured I'd give it a try on my 74 with SAW style adjusters only on stock width beam. Car is currently lowered ~3" (measured 24" from ground to lip of fender), but find the ride ok, but a little bumpy, thinking a little more shock travel would smooth out the ride? When at rest, the shocks are compressed ~2.5" and based on 5.125" stroke length specs for this shock, I am about right in the middle. Would the longer KYB 344054 shock give more travel and a better ride?
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db69
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 11, 2019 10:17 pm    Post subject: Re: Official "Ball Joint" lowering topic Reply with quote

Just for a reference here is a pic of my 69 with 2.5” drop spindle/disc brake kit with stock width bj beam and 185-55 15” riviera wheels 5.5 wide. Notice the tires do stick out past it the fenders. I’m not crazy about that but it doesn’t bother me enough to want to shorten the beam either. The handling is great but tires do scrub slightly when I hit a pothole at speed. Probably will go with 195-45’s next. We have a lot of used tire shops where I live I just kept going back and exchanging tires until I got the stance I wanted now I can get some new tires that fit and function the way I want them to. Rear tires are 205-65 15 they were the biggest I could get without scrubbing.

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VDubRyeGuy
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2020 1:45 pm    Post subject: Re: Official "Ball Joint" lowering topic Reply with quote

I haven't seen my setup posted (in detail) and it might help others. 1974 std with a 2" Narrowed adjustable beam (~$300 new), Empi Disc brakes w/ 2/1/2" drop spindles on front ($371 new), Front tires are Nankang CX668 Touring Radial Tires - 145R15 (~$55 each new), I have a 3/4" narrowed sway bar in front as well ($90 new). The sway bar is low but hasn’t been too much of an issue. Car stops on a dime in the dry, I haven't tested it in the wet yet. I have not experienced any tire rub issues even when I turn all the way in both directions
I have read a lot of complaints about Empi parts. The Empi brakes I installed are excellent. They were easy to install, easy to bleed, and work 1000% better than the drums. I highly recommend this upgrade. The kit came with drop spindles for disc brakes, rotors, calipers and hardware. The kit did not come with new lines, I used the old ones which were still good. Everything in the kit seems high quality. The kit did push out the wheel a little bit which made me have to change from Federal 165/80/R15 tires to the 145R15’s. The 165’s could barely turn without hitting the fenders.
I did all the work myself with basic tools. The Tie-rod puller was borrowed (essentially $0) from Advance auto-parts which was used to replace the spindles.
The ball joints are new but not the special lowered ones. I haven’t experienced any issues with them.
I have the adj beam in the highest setting which tend to keep the ride comfortable. When I had the adj beam set 1/2 way w/o the drop spindles the ride was unbearably stiff and uncomfortable. You could feel driving over the paint lines in the road.

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Edit: After driving the car all weekend, the sway bar bottomed out a few times. The car is too low for comfort, I need to raise it about 3/4"


Last edited by VDubRyeGuy on Mon Apr 13, 2020 4:21 pm; edited 1 time in total
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pittbull
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 05, 2020 3:52 am    Post subject: Re: Official "Ball Joint" lowering topic Reply with quote

Somebody used shock relocators?
How about that angle of the shock?
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rlajbsmith
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 01, 2020 11:37 pm    Post subject: Re: Official "Ball Joint" lowering topic Reply with quote

I built a reverse trike using a ball joint beam and a partial pan. The beam is from a 68 Ghia and the pan is from a 69 beetle. I installed adjusters to the beam and lowered the front. The height is nice. I am wanting to adjust the caster, camber and toe-in. The arms are angled up (see pictures). I was wondering if the angle is too steep or a problem. Also, I was wondering how to measure the angle of the caster. Do I measure it from the arms or on the front of the beam? Any help would be appreciated.

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frenchroast
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2020 7:46 am    Post subject: Re: Official "Ball Joint" lowering topic Reply with quote

rlajbsmith wrote:
Also, I was wondering how to measure the angle of the caster. Do I measure it from the arms or on the front of the beam? Any help would be appreciated.

I just discovered this excellent thread. It's in the Vanagon forum but is easily one of the best on alignments in general including measuring caster: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=396113&highlight=caster+align+level
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Zacharysayre
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 31, 2020 5:44 pm    Post subject: Re: Official "Ball Joint" lowering topic Reply with quote

I searched and didn't find my answer. So I'm posting it here.

I got a new narrowed ball joint beam and torsion springs.

I'm trying to install the torsion bars and no matter what I've tried they won't go in.

I used a hammer but they only went in about a half an inch. The pulled them out with force.

I noticed that the sides of the torsion spring have been scratched up.

Could the adjuster have been milled on the short side.

How do I fix this problem?
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frenchroast
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 31, 2020 8:12 pm    Post subject: Re: Official "Ball Joint" lowering topic Reply with quote

Zacharysayre wrote:
I'm trying to install the torsion bars and no matter what I've tried they won't go in.
I used a hammer but they only went in about a half an inch. The pulled them out with force.

You might have a leaf getting hung up. Here's a picture of how I load a front torsion leaf pack. The zip tie breaks off inside the tube. Only use a mallet after you get the leaf pack into center retainer to even them out. It's a little tedious getting them started but this seems to work.
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Last edited by frenchroast on Mon Aug 31, 2020 8:18 pm; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 31, 2020 8:16 pm    Post subject: Re: Official "Ball Joint" lowering topic Reply with quote

I tried that trick and I also tried to leave 1 wide spring out but no luck with either of those ways.

Figured once they were partial in I would then add the last spring in. I know to install all the leaves.
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 01, 2020 6:24 am    Post subject: Re: Official "Ball Joint" lowering topic Reply with quote

Zacharysayre wrote:
I tried that trick and I also tried to leave 1 wide spring out but no luck with either of those ways.

They can be a challenge to install on a stock original beam. On a narrowed beam it could be possible the center hole is misshapen, weld spatter, etc. All depends on the quality of work and materials. I’d get a square steel bar - maybe an old leaf pack would do - and grind a taper into it. Then insert it as a way to get some rough starting point measurements to get an understanding of what it looks like in there.
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BayStYat
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 01, 2020 6:51 am    Post subject: Re: Official "Ball Joint" lowering topic Reply with quote

the best way to load the leafs is to bundle them tight like they install, take a sander and round just the outer edges of the leafs. just remove the the hard 90. slight bevel. they will slip right in everytime.
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 01, 2020 7:13 am    Post subject: Re: Official "Ball Joint" lowering topic Reply with quote

BayStYat wrote:
the best way to load the leafs is to bundle them tight like they install, take a sander and round just the outer edges of the leafs. just remove the the hard 90. slight bevel. they will slip right in everytime.

Agree. Should've included in that in the earlier post. If you zoom in on the earlier picture, you can see the bevel on the forward leaves. I don't have the skill or patience to load them without staggering though.
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 01, 2020 9:59 pm    Post subject: Re: Official "Ball Joint" lowering topic Reply with quote

I put a bevel on them before I tried to install them. So that didn't help.

Talked with the shop that I bought it from. They have had several other purchasers having the same issue. they have checked and the adjuster has been cut wrong. Not sure how to grind the opening bigger.

Would it be wise to grind the edge of the springs to make them fit.
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2020 7:43 am    Post subject: Re: Official "Ball Joint" lowering topic Reply with quote

Zacharysayre wrote:
Talked with the shop that I bought it from. They have had several other purchasers having the same issue. they have checked and the adjuster has been cut wrong. Not sure how to grind the opening bigger.

Would it be wise to grind the edge of the springs to make them fit.

I'd ask them fix it or replace with one that was setup correctly.
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amaskedman
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 05, 2020 2:22 pm    Post subject: Re: Official "Ball Joint" lowering topic Reply with quote

I just went through 46 pages. My lord. Now my turn Smile

I have a 68 with a stock front end. I want to even out the stance, nothing dramatic. From what I understand, some drop spindles would probably work. However, since I just bought a welder and have been practicing, why not make it adjustable. So, to that end.

This is what I will have
EMPI 8 Spoke 4 Lug Rim with back spacing at 4 3/8 (assuming my old rims are the same as the new ones)
Adjustable Beam using airkewld adjustors (they look cool)
Front Disc Kit (haven't decided which one)

Do you think I need drop spindles? I dont think I do. To even it out I probably need to drop it a couple inches.
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Bug53
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PostPosted: Sat May 29, 2021 8:58 am    Post subject: Re: Official "Ball Joint" lowering topic Reply with quote

A fountain of info here.
Thanks for leading me over here.
I want a recommendation for the drop spindles everyone is talking about.
I want to utilize my existing drums, bearings, seals, etc.
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walter kandetzki
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 13, 2022 3:37 pm    Post subject: Re: Official "Ball Joint" lowering topic Reply with quote

Hi guys I am running riviera wheels on my 68 and I’m running 195s in the back and might be doing 175 smarts in the front.I will be running a stock width beam with adjusters welded in and probably won’t be using dropped spindles.if I lower the front 3”?and rear a notch or so will I still need lowered ball joints?
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Cwd1979a
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 05, 2022 11:42 am    Post subject: Re: Official "Ball Joint" lowering topic Reply with quote

Officially need some help. 1970 Beetle. I’ve installed a 2” narrow adjustable beam for use with drop spindles (jbugs, not sure what what the difference is between a normal 2” adjustable beam). I’ve also installed 2.5” drop spindles and I’m trying to get Monroe air shocks MA756 on the front. The trailing arms aren’t going high enough for the shock to be fully compressed. In fact when I compress them all the way the shock is still beyond it’s marked “max air” limit. I just read that special ball joints are needed in my case but would that keep the trailing arms from going all the up? Or is it because everything is new and stiff?
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sparkle_0
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2022 2:50 am    Post subject: Re: Official "Ball Joint" lowering topic Reply with quote

Hey team,
How does adjusters on a stock width beam lowered approx 3" or so compared to a 2" narrowed beam with drop spindles in regards to ride quality? Is there much difference between the two? (obviously with correct length shocks to match etc)
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