Author |
Message |
timbo777 Samba Member
Joined: November 01, 2005 Posts: 84 Location: UK
|
Posted: Mon Nov 21, 2005 3:15 pm Post subject: rust treatment in front windscreen area |
|
|
I am a newbie to bus restoration
Below are two pictures of my bus's front windscreen. any recomendations re treatment of the rust areas?
not sure whether it requires welding - I cannot weld (not yet anyway) , but hope I can rub down and prime this instead. There are no holes, and the area' seem quite solid, but the rust has eaten a bit of metal |
|
Back to top |
|
|
jeremyrockjock Samba Towbar Builder
Joined: January 01, 2002 Posts: 5008 Location: Richmond, Verjinya
|
Posted: Mon Nov 21, 2005 3:42 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Wire wheel it with a grinder.
If any holes show through you can either weld them or leave them. Prime and seal the bare metal. Reinstall window. I sealed mine with POR15. Yours doesn't look bad. Here is how mine looked.
_________________ Why buy what you can build.
Step away from the fiberglass and no one gets hurt!! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Stocknazi Samba Member
Joined: June 18, 2004 Posts: 5150
|
Posted: Mon Nov 21, 2005 5:13 pm Post subject: |
|
|
it looks like you will find some rust holes when you start cleaning it up with the brush wheel. the one pictured to on im using and it is quite aggressive, you may find some pinholes. i would recommend having someone weld up the small holes, or have it cut out and new metal replaced where needed. treat with por15 or rustbullet , and use a sealent when reinstalling your seals.
ive heard tar being used by have no experience with it.
i would not recommend just bondoing them up as bondo is not a permanent repair.
good luck _________________ WANTED:
58 Westfalia cabinet knobs (3 needed), roof rack, and (7) privy tent poles (silver painted).
"When the people are afraid of the government, that's tyranny. But when the government is afraid of the people, that's liberty."
"Resistance to tyrants is obedience to God."
Thomas Jefferson |
|
Back to top |
|
|
EverettB Administrator
Joined: April 11, 2000 Posts: 69830 Location: Phoenix Metro
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
timbo777 Samba Member
Joined: November 01, 2005 Posts: 84 Location: UK
|
Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2005 12:40 am Post subject: |
|
|
thanks for the advice
I am off to get a wire wheel grinder! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Bongo Samba Member
Joined: December 03, 2004 Posts: 872 Location: Egå, Denmark
|
Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2005 1:17 am Post subject: |
|
|
That's not too bad Timbo, you need to get all the powdery rust off and use the wire wheel until it looks shiny again, then give a good coat of rust converter let it go off, sand back and do it agai a couple of times, then primer and match. You'll be amazed how good it will look. It's a relatively monor repair and you're lucky the rust hasn't got into the edges where the rubber sits. _________________ 1964 Standard
1962 Single Cab
2002 Golf St.Car |
|
Back to top |
|
|
felix ehrhardt Samba Member
Joined: January 16, 2003 Posts: 91 Location: Germany
|
Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2005 5:05 am Post subject: |
|
|
Hi,
had the same problem...
I cleaned it with a wire wheel (as mentoined),but not with a twisted that is sometimes to rude for the part.Cleaned it to bare metal & welded those tiny holes...
The thing to look after is that you paint/spray with a filler after the primer or better a primer with filler.The filler fills all that pittings up,otherwise water will come in.At the end go with normal paint.
Best greetings,Felix |
|
Back to top |
|
|
felix ehrhardt Samba Member
Joined: January 16, 2003 Posts: 91 Location: Germany
|
Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2005 5:10 am Post subject: |
|
|
Ahhhh forgot something I find mayor.... d
Drill small hole in each windowend to the B.pillar.This gives water the chance to drip out if a bit had come in cause the water couldn`t get out there otherwise.If you look at a typ-1 or a typ-3 they have got those waterholes and they often haven`t those problems around the windshield as the split (typ-2)...
Greetz,Felix |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Stocknazi Samba Member
Joined: June 18, 2004 Posts: 5150
|
Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2005 5:57 am Post subject: |
|
|
felix, thats something i havent heard of doing. drilling a tiny hole seems like it would help in helping water out.
has anyone else heard of or done this before? _________________ WANTED:
58 Westfalia cabinet knobs (3 needed), roof rack, and (7) privy tent poles (silver painted).
"When the people are afraid of the government, that's tyranny. But when the government is afraid of the people, that's liberty."
"Resistance to tyrants is obedience to God."
Thomas Jefferson |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Bongo Samba Member
Joined: December 03, 2004 Posts: 872 Location: Egå, Denmark
|
Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2005 6:27 am Post subject: |
|
|
No, but it sounds like a damn good idea - just have to be sure of where it goes. _________________ 1964 Standard
1962 Single Cab
2002 Golf St.Car |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Wolfgang1 Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 139 Location: Germany
|
Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2005 6:54 am Post subject: |
|
|
And here`s the solution, if the rust was quicker than the restorer.....
You can buy it here:
http://www.autocraft2004.co.uk
It`s not cheap, but perfect quality!
The idea with the holes is good, BUT there must be a way for the water to get out!
The beetle a pillars have a hole/slot at the bottom, the bus not.
This water can ruin the lower front area (a pillar/nose)...be careful
I think its better to use a non silicone sealant for the window frames.
Wolfgang |
|
Back to top |
|
|
EverettB Administrator
Joined: April 11, 2000 Posts: 69830 Location: Phoenix Metro
|
Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2005 10:24 am Post subject: |
|
|
felix ehrhardt wrote: |
Ahhhh forgot something I find mayor.... d
Drill small hole in each windowend to the B.pillar.This gives water the chance to drip out if a bit had come in cause the water couldn`t get out there otherwise.If you look at a typ-1 or a typ-3 they have got those waterholes and they often haven`t those problems around the windshield as the split (typ-2)... |
If I remember right those holes are for the original primer dip and paint to run out and were plugged with rubber plugs after painting.
Maybe not on all models? _________________ How to Post Photos
Everett Barnes - [email protected] | My wanted ads
"Water is the only drink for a wise man" | "Communication prevents complaints"
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Bongo Samba Member
Joined: December 03, 2004 Posts: 872 Location: Egå, Denmark
|
Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2005 10:28 am Post subject: |
|
|
Or don't drive in the rain. _________________ 1964 Standard
1962 Single Cab
2002 Golf St.Car |
|
Back to top |
|
|
felix ehrhardt Samba Member
Joined: January 16, 2003 Posts: 91 Location: Germany
|
Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2005 10:33 am Post subject: |
|
|
Hi,
not that I will be misunderstud I drilled only 4mm holes so no waterfallholes.
I looked at my typ-3 there is the same solution without a special panel...
I had no problems with it,and with a good windshieldrubber there only comes minor water in.And "if" it yust drips on the parcelshelf.
The holes even help to get air in there that the water can better condense.
Problem is that the angle of the windshieldframe doesn`t allow the water to come out !
A other solution woulb be to weld there a little pipe on with a tube that the water can get away as it is done with slidingroofs.That would be the king-solution
Best wishes,Felix
@Wolfgang : Sehr schön hier auch mal einen Deutschen zu sehen,ansonsten sind Deutsche hier so rar wie ein Glatzkopf-kasten oder eine Behrhutze Die Klapptürsache in der Bullikartei schaucht echt gut aus,saubere Arbeit ! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
timbo777 Samba Member
Joined: November 01, 2005 Posts: 84 Location: UK
|
Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2005 1:28 pm Post subject: |
|
|
thanks for all the advice, idea's etc. I will grind, hopefully no holes, prime/fill and paint. And probably drill a couple of holes as well!! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Stocknazi Samba Member
Joined: June 18, 2004 Posts: 5150
|
Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2005 4:58 pm Post subject: |
|
|
thanks for the advise on drilling holes. i didnt think about the water getting out, thats not good. after what everett said i will probabally not drill them. i think ill use a good sealer instead with my new rubber.
later on _________________ WANTED:
58 Westfalia cabinet knobs (3 needed), roof rack, and (7) privy tent poles (silver painted).
"When the people are afraid of the government, that's tyranny. But when the government is afraid of the people, that's liberty."
"Resistance to tyrants is obedience to God."
Thomas Jefferson |
|
Back to top |
|
|
NorCalWeekender Samba Member
Joined: April 13, 2000 Posts: 6531 Location: East Bay, CA
|
Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2005 6:00 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Dang, I haven't dared to take out my windows yet...I can see where the rust is literally blossoming. I bet the whole thing would crumble if I took the windows out. And at that rate, I'm not getting them to go back in without doing some real metal work. _________________ 9th Owner of a 1971 Tintop Westy
"Eventually, we sold to a guy for $500 who towed it away to live in it in his parents' driveway. We didn't think it would ever avoid the junk heap on that day." -The 3rd Owner, 1995 |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Major Woody Samba Enigma
Joined: December 04, 2002 Posts: 9010 Location: Portland, OR
|
Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2005 6:22 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Hi Taylor,
After you get the windows out and the rusted areas treated, we recommend you install the new seals with some kind of sealant to keep the water from getting in there again. We have tried a number of things over the years and the best solution we have come up with for the rainy PNW is roofing tar. We put a bead on the seal's lip and a bit more on the inner lip as a lubricant, and then pull the seal in with soft 18 ga. automotive electrical cord. We have found that nylon rope and other abrasive or stiff cords tend to damage the rubber--BTDT!!!
Send us an email if you are interested in learning some other, more "special" ways of using roofing tar in your day-to-day life.
Good luck with your project!
Major&Woody |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Wolfgang1 Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 139 Location: Germany
|
Posted: Thu Nov 24, 2005 1:48 pm Post subject: |
|
|
@Felix: Danke für das Lob! Sind wir hier echt so rar? Eigentlich ein Wunder, daß nicht mehr dt. Bullianer hierher flüchten, im Bullikartei Forum ist ja (fast) nix los!
Hab grad den nächsten Satz Klapptüren in Arbeit:
(The next set of cargo doors is in progress....):
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
Eric&Barb Samba Member
Joined: September 19, 2004 Posts: 24765 Location: Olympia Wash Rinse & Repeat
|
Posted: Sat Feb 17, 2007 6:11 pm Post subject: |
|
|
felix ehrhardt wrote: |
Ahhhh forgot something I find mayor.... d
Drill small hole in each windowend to the B.pillar.This gives water the chance to drip out if a bit had come in cause the water couldn`t get out there otherwise.If you look at a typ-1 or a typ-3 they have got those waterholes and they often haven`t those problems around the windshield as the split (typ-2)...
Greetz,Felix |
Hi Felix,
Problem with those drain holes is they were for draining the primer when the type 1 & 3 bodies were dipped in it. After that those holes are to be taped off and a sealant must be used between the seal and body to keep out the water. To leave these holes open to drain water just transfers the rust problems to lower areas.
See the "Damage Numbers" manual at:
http://failsure.net/oacdp/
There is one chapter in it for the type 1 and another chapter for the type 3 (but no direct type 2 info )on how to seal the complete body. This manual was only for the VW dealerships, and not the gemeral public! Also check any and all VW Workshop Manuals for simular info on how to seal the windshields.
We have used roofing tar with great sucess with sealing, and had tried many other types of sealant with little or no luck. _________________ In Stereo, Where Available! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|