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rust treatment in front windscreen area
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timbo777
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2005 3:15 pm    Post subject: rust treatment in front windscreen area Reply with quote

I am a newbie to bus restoration

Below are two pictures of my bus's front windscreen. any recomendations re treatment of the rust areas?

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not sure whether it requires welding - I cannot weld (not yet anyway) , but hope I can rub down and prime this instead. There are no holes, and the area' seem quite solid, but the rust has eaten a bit of metal
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jeremyrockjock
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2005 3:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wire wheel it with a grinder.
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If any holes show through you can either weld them or leave them. Prime and seal the bare metal. Reinstall window. I sealed mine with POR15. Yours doesn't look bad. Here is how mine looked.
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Stocknazi
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2005 5:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

it looks like you will find some rust holes when you start cleaning it up with the brush wheel. the one pictured to on im using and it is quite aggressive, you may find some pinholes. i would recommend having someone weld up the small holes, or have it cut out and new metal replaced where needed. treat with por15 or rustbullet , and use a sealent when reinstalling your seals.
ive heard tar being used by have no experience with it.
i would not recommend just bondoing them up as bondo is not a permanent repair.
good luck
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2005 5:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a Bus that looked like that.
I:
Wire wheeled/sanded it smooth
Taped off
Primed
Repainted using color-matched spray can
New windsheild rubber

Everything was fine - no leaks.

I was lucky in that the lip had no holes in it once it was cleaned up.
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timbo777
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2005 12:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for the advice

I am off to get a wire wheel grinder!
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Bongo
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2005 1:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's not too bad Timbo, you need to get all the powdery rust off and use the wire wheel until it looks shiny again, then give a good coat of rust converter let it go off, sand back and do it agai a couple of times, then primer and match. You'll be amazed how good it will look. It's a relatively monor repair and you're lucky the rust hasn't got into the edges where the rubber sits.
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felix ehrhardt
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2005 5:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,

had the same problem...
I cleaned it with a wire wheel (as mentoined),but not with a twisted that is sometimes to rude for the part.Cleaned it to bare metal & welded those tiny holes...
The thing to look after is that you paint/spray with a filler after the primer or better a primer with filler.The filler fills all that pittings up,otherwise water will come in.At the end go with normal paint.

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Best greetings,Felix
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felix ehrhardt
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2005 5:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ahhhh forgot something I find mayor.... d
Drill small hole in each windowend to the B.pillar.This gives water the chance to drip out if a bit had come in cause the water couldn`t get out there otherwise.If you look at a typ-1 or a typ-3 they have got those waterholes and they often haven`t those problems around the windshield as the split (typ-2)...

Greetz,Felix
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Stocknazi
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2005 5:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

felix, thats something i havent heard of doing. drilling a tiny hole seems like it would help in helping water out.
has anyone else heard of or done this before?
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Bongo
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2005 6:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No, but it sounds like a damn good idea - just have to be sure of where it goes.
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Wolfgang1
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2005 6:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

And here`s the solution, if the rust was quicker than the restorer.....

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You can buy it here:

http://www.autocraft2004.co.uk

It`s not cheap, but perfect quality!

The idea with the holes is good, BUT there must be a way for the water to get out!
The beetle a pillars have a hole/slot at the bottom, the bus not.

This water can ruin the lower front area (a pillar/nose)...be careful

I think its better to use a non silicone sealant for the window frames.

Wolfgang
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2005 10:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

felix ehrhardt wrote:
Ahhhh forgot something I find mayor.... d
Drill small hole in each windowend to the B.pillar.This gives water the chance to drip out if a bit had come in cause the water couldn`t get out there otherwise.If you look at a typ-1 or a typ-3 they have got those waterholes and they often haven`t those problems around the windshield as the split (typ-2)...

If I remember right those holes are for the original primer dip and paint to run out and were plugged with rubber plugs after painting.

Maybe not on all models?
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Bongo
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2005 10:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Or don't drive in the rain.
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felix ehrhardt
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2005 10:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,

not that I will be misunderstud I drilled only 4mm holes so no waterfallholes. Wink
I looked at my typ-3 there is the same solution without a special panel...
I had no problems with it,and with a good windshieldrubber there only comes minor water in.And "if" it yust drips on the parcelshelf.
The holes even help to get air in there that the water can better condense.
Problem is that the angle of the windshieldframe doesn`t allow the water to come out !
A other solution woulb be to weld there a little pipe on with a tube that the water can get away as it is done with slidingroofs.That would be the king-solution Wink

Best wishes,Felix

@Wolfgang : Sehr schön hier auch mal einen Deutschen zu sehen,ansonsten sind Deutsche hier so rar wie ein Glatzkopf-kasten oder eine Behrhutze Wink Die Klapptürsache in der Bullikartei schaucht echt gut aus,saubere Arbeit !
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timbo777
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2005 1:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for all the advice, idea's etc. I will grind, hopefully no holes, prime/fill and paint. And probably drill a couple of holes as well!!
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Stocknazi
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2005 4:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for the advise on drilling holes. i didnt think about the water getting out, thats not good. after what everett said i will probabally not drill them. i think ill use a good sealer instead with my new rubber.
later on
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NorCalWeekender
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2005 6:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dang, I haven't dared to take out my windows yet...I can see where the rust is literally blossoming. I bet the whole thing would crumble if I took the windows out. And at that rate, I'm not getting them to go back in without doing some real metal work. Razz
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Major Woody
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2005 6:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Taylor,
After you get the windows out and the rusted areas treated, we recommend you install the new seals with some kind of sealant to keep the water from getting in there again. We have tried a number of things over the years and the best solution we have come up with for the rainy PNW is roofing tar. We put a bead on the seal's lip and a bit more on the inner lip as a lubricant, and then pull the seal in with soft 18 ga. automotive electrical cord. We have found that nylon rope and other abrasive or stiff cords tend to damage the rubber--BTDT!!!
Send us an email if you are interested in learning some other, more "special" ways of using roofing tar in your day-to-day life.
Good luck with your project!
Major&Woody
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 24, 2005 1:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

@Felix: Danke für das Lob! Sind wir hier echt so rar? Eigentlich ein Wunder, daß nicht mehr dt. Bullianer hierher flüchten, im Bullikartei Forum ist ja (fast) nix los!
Hab grad den nächsten Satz Klapptüren in Arbeit:

(The next set of cargo doors is in progress....):

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 17, 2007 6:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

felix ehrhardt wrote:
Ahhhh forgot something I find mayor.... d
Drill small hole in each windowend to the B.pillar.This gives water the chance to drip out if a bit had come in cause the water couldn`t get out there otherwise.If you look at a typ-1 or a typ-3 they have got those waterholes and they often haven`t those problems around the windshield as the split (typ-2)...

Greetz,Felix


Hi Felix,
Problem with those drain holes is they were for draining the primer when the type 1 & 3 bodies were dipped in it. After that those holes are to be taped off and a sealant must be used between the seal and body to keep out the water. To leave these holes open to drain water just transfers the rust problems to lower areas.
See the "Damage Numbers" manual at:
http://failsure.net/oacdp/

There is one chapter in it for the type 1 and another chapter for the type 3 (but no direct type 2 info Sad )on how to seal the complete body. This manual was only for the VW dealerships, and not the gemeral public! Also check any and all VW Workshop Manuals for simular info on how to seal the windshields.
We have used roofing tar with great sucess with sealing, and had tried many other types of sealant with little or no luck.
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