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USMCord1
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 18, 2006 10:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

1FASTHOE wrote:
usmcord1, keep us in the loop. i was thinking of a motor swap after my blows. whats your tranny type ? and where are you going to get a adapter plate from ? one more thing, where do you find your motor and how many miles on it ? are you going to use the original radiator from the subbie ? thanks for the info.........


Have a friend who hangs out in dune-buggy.com he runs a subie and says power is great its a flat 4 so weight is still low. I am running a T-2 tranny and will be getting the adapter from Kennedy most likely. Dennis says get the radiator, wiring, computer, in tank fuel pump, headers with O2 sensor. Don't know about miles yet, guy said it was rebuilt but it will get tore down anyway, for 450.00 I can't complain. I have been passing the word around at the garages and auto parts places and a guy called the shop and said he had one in a Legacy. Will know more Sat. It won't go in the rail this year I want to get rolling as soon as possible so I will spend time gathering parts, info and any engine work that needs to be done. Will keep all posted.
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Skidmark
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 18, 2006 11:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It sounds real good. I have been planning on a 2332 for my (never ending) project car, but who knows? By the time I get to the engine I might go another direction. Either way it will be fun to read up on how your H2O upgrade is coming along. Clean that camera lens and make sure to post pics! Laughing
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dr. awsome
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 18, 2006 11:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

you can get wrx twin turbo motors from japan that have like 30k miles on them for around 900 I think shipped. That's with all the accessories and everything. Just not the radiator or water lines. But I think that's all there missing. If you would like I could get the web sight from a friend of mine that is doing the swap in his street bug.
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Baja Ben
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2006 8:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think the best place to get the adapter is from pac customs. they have them in stock all the time and there is a 4 week wait dirctly from kennedy. just give them a call and they will set you up right.
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USMCord1
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2006 8:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the info, I need all I can get. Once again off into unchartered waters. But that is where it gets interesting.
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1FASTHOE
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2006 10:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i waiting on baited breath, for you to get the ball rolling so i can watch and learn. 200 or more hp sounds awesome, wheel stander for sure. do you know how wide they are in inches ? i want to make sure it will fit in my buggy. thanks and good luck.
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USMCord1
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2006 7:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am going sat. and take a look at it, I will get deminsions and let you know. But I do not see size as a problem, but will let you know.

David
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2006 8:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have the adapter plates in stock they are better then the kennedy units.
kannedy thakes a stock vw fly wheel and welds in a new center. Mine are all made from 1 piece then machined down the kit sells for $425 plus shipping. I also stock subie headers. I have everything needed to do the swap. If you are interested you can PM or we can talk here
thanks
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USMCord1
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2006 11:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Measured the subie motor it is 29 inches wide 17 inches front to back not including radiator, which has two cooling fans (keeper) and could not get a real good dimension but appears to be around 17 inches tall also, pretty compact. Can't wait to tear it out of the car and see what there is. Wiring seems to be fairly simple ( I say that now) we will see.


Well back to the VW engine, I pulled it out of the rail, I have a dolly ( will post a pic later) that the bed can be raised and lowered so I stuck that under the motor unbolted it, took the slack out and pulled the engine back into the dolly bed moved the dolly back raised it up then pulled it on to a rolling table, cleaned it up set the valves, degreased it including the tin, put new points,rotor,wires,cap on and putting the tin back on. While I am doing that I am taking clear RTV and putting it around the tin where it meets the fan housing trying to seal air leaks. Do not know if it is over kill but figured the more I can keep directed onto the cylinders the better also keeps debris from getting in the fins. Not painting the engine figure no paint is better to help the heat dissipate. Any ideas on that? Well back to play I mean work. Just thought I would write some notes if any interested, if not sorry for wasting your time.
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1FASTHOE
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2006 1:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

usmcord1, thanks for the numbers. will go out and do some measuring whan im done here. you say the radiator is 17 inches tall ? but how wide ? sorry to be a pain. you are correct on the paint issue, it does hold in heat. i was going to paint my tune port system on my sub and my mechanic told me that its not a good idea (for heat). i ended up having it polished, looks great. anyway thanks again and keep us up to date.........
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USMCord1
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2006 2:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

1FASTHOE wrote:
usmcord1, thanks for the numbers. will go out and do some measuring whan im done here. you say the radiator is 17 inches tall ? but how wide ? sorry to be a pain. you are correct on the paint issue, it does hold in heat. i was going to paint my tune port system on my sub and my mechanic told me that its not a good idea (for heat). i ended up having it polished, looks great. anyway thanks again and keep us up to date.........


Sorry did not measure the radiator, it is about the same deminsions as the motor heigth and width though, I didn't worry about it because it was not going to be near the motor anyway. But I will get it.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2006 3:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i paint my sheetmetal satin black, just like the germans did Cool my case has some old black paint but i didn't want to paint it...
do you have a debris screen? i made one out of 3/8" mesh wire.i als run an "uncle dirty" dog chain to self clean the screen.
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USMCord1
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2006 5:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bajaherbie wrote:
i paint my sheetmetal satin black, just like the germans did Cool my case has some old black paint but i didn't want to paint it...
do you have a debris screen? i made one out of 3/8" mesh wire.i als run an "uncle dirty" dog chain to self clean the screen.


No screen yet, I had a concave one but that one is out and a flat one with a "Swinging Uncle Dirty" (nothing like swinging free in the wind Shocked ) is in the works. My fan shroud had some play but no more, replaced all the bolts lock thread on all the bolts even broke out the Torgue wrench, yea buddy getting serious now. Can't wait till my carb parts and rear torrsion bars come in. Found out one thing when taking the CV's off, no lock washers at all. Who was the idiot who did that ( yup I am rasing my hand) don't know why but won't happen again.
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 22, 2006 12:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So with all this rubbing on your dub motor, you are not going with the suby? Or are you just fixing up the dub motor to sell it?
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USMCord1
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 22, 2006 1:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Skidmark wrote:
So with all this rubbing on your dub motor, you are not going with the suby? Or are you just fixing up the dub motor to sell it?


The subie will be going in something but I want to go through it completely. I have not rode in 2 months and I am getting cranky so the 1776 goes in this one for now. And the subie will either go in Frankenstien later or I have been toying with a Baja idea or a 4 seater rail. I am in no hurry to put the subie in, I want to make sure mechanics and computer are working flawlessly.
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 22, 2006 6:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good call... keep all of the motors! I just wish I had more garage space (what guy doesn't). Keep posting details of the suby, and what it takes to get it ready to go. I still might get convinced to scrub my 2332 plans for an H2O.
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USMCord1
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 22, 2006 9:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Skidmark wrote:
Good call... keep all of the motors! I just wish I had more garage space (what guy doesn't). Keep posting details of the suby, and what it takes to get it ready to go. I still might get convinced to scrub my 2332 plans for an H2O.



Skidmark, I really like the VW engine, that thing is tough (here it comes) but I look at the horsepower to $$ ratio and I can't see it. I am not a purist, I like power, I like speed, but spending big bucks for a VW engine , and with all engines the larger you build it from stock the less durable it is. I can get more power with less bucks. Will keep all posted as to progress. Do what I did start telling people in the automotive business what you are looking for and sooner or later it will show up.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2006 12:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

USMCord1 wrote:
Skidmark wrote:
Good call... keep all of the motors! I just wish I had more garage space (what guy doesn't). Keep posting details of the suby, and what it takes to get it ready to go. I still might get convinced to scrub my 2332 plans for an H2O.



Skidmark, I really like the VW engine, that thing is tough (here it comes) but I look at the horsepower to $$ ratio and I can't see it. I am not a purist, I like power, I like speed, but spending big bucks for a VW engine , and with all engines the larger you build it from stock the less durable it is. I can get more power with less bucks. Will keep all posted as to progress. Do what I did start telling people in the automotive business what you are looking for and sooner or later it will show up.


Cant arugue with that. for the cost and reliablity for a water cooled (and a subi at that) nothin beats it. I just dont want to go through all the crap i went threw last time i had an air cooled. My favortite experiance was comeing home from a date and the cylinder gasket blew. The wrost part was i was on a frist name baise with the tow truck driver. When he pulled up and says " hey ben hows it been, havent seen ya in while". Confused . you can only imagen what i was thinking.I'll never get a date with her again. and I didnt. well you get the point. Water cooled all the way!!!!!
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1FASTHOE
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2006 11:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i could not agree with you more than what you said in your last post, usmcord1. to hell with vw power and all that crap, give my BANG FOR THE BUCK. like i explained to my wife last night, i give her the rough numbers on subie verses vw and even she ready to convert. i love my wife.... Razz
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USMCord1
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2006 6:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just some notes put the 27 mm rear torsion bars in 4 times the charm. (yea I am slow) Finally got it dialed in. The springs where set a 21 degree before bolting in, once bolted in and weight was on it sits at 12 degrees with the axles at a 20 degree angle they are 944 CV's so that is as close as I care to get.

Put the dual Kadrons and linkage on but like everything I'm going to take it back off, weld up the brake light holes that are now behind the air cleaners and relocate them. Trying to figure out if I want to go with stock fuel pump or go with electric fuel pump, either way I need to knock pressure down to 2 psi. so either a regulator or stack gaskets if stock fuel pump is used. Tommorow clean CV's and reinstall with lock washers this time.
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