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Wacky tachy stalling
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justmike
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 08, 2005 11:51 am    Post subject: Wacky tachy stalling Reply with quote

I own a 88 Carat, auto that is in way better condition than most in Vancouver BC. I've had it for 8 months now and have have no electrical problems or problems with stalling.

Yesterday I pulled out of my driveway and the engine died, all leds on dash lit up and the tachometer was pulsing to the redline (engine was not running at the time). I tried to restart it and it turned over with no problem but would not start. With the key turned to the ignition on position the tachometer again was pulsing, but was independent of actual engine RPMs as the engine would not start. When the tach was pulsing I could hear a buzzing sound (sounded like a loud fuel pump) but could not determine where it was coming from. After 10 minutes or so the van started again, pulled it back into the driveway and then would not start again.

I have never seen anything like this before. Any ideas?

mike
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 08, 2005 4:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That will happen when diodes go "toast" in your alternator.
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barrettw
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 08, 2005 8:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Could also be related to the Hall Sender within the distributor.
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justmike
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 08, 2005 10:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, now the van is running fine. It's funny you mention the Hall Sender Barrettw, because the plasic housing on the edge of the distributor for the Hall Sender plug is cracked and loose. I tried moving the plug while the engine was running, but could not reproduce the problem. Should probably fix it though.

I have parts van that ran very well and can pull the distributor out of it and put it in my 88. Will I need to get the timing done (I don't have to tools to do it myself), or can I just match the position of the existing distributor?

Thanks for your replies,

mike
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barrettw
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2005 9:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My '88 did the same thing your is. Had to cancel 3 camping trips this summer because of it.
When I replaced my distributor I carefully marked the position of the shaft within the bracket. I created these pen marks off of visible clues on the side of the distributor that I knew would be the same on the new distrbutor. Look for the notch and/or the spade plug . I then created a similar mark on the new distributor and lined them up with the marks on the bracket. I didn't need to adjust the timing.
Hope this helps.
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Tram
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 10, 2005 1:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

justmike wrote:
Well, now the van is running fine. It's funny you mention the Hall Sender Barrettw, because the plasic housing on the edge of the distributor for the Hall Sender plug is cracked and loose. I tried moving the plug while the engine was running, but could not reproduce the problem. Should probably fix it though.

I have parts van that ran very well and can pull the distributor out of it and put it in my 88. Will I need to get the timing done (I don't have to tools to do it myself), or can I just match the position of the existing distributor?

Thanks for your replies,

mike


BINGO. That's the deal! And yes, you can almost never reproduce the stalling by wiggling it.
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justmike
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2005 12:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I swapped the distributors as carefully as I could but the timing is now out. Still runs ok, but different, and a little rough. Well, I guess I'll need a time light. Hasn't stalled since though.

Thanks for your input guys,

mike
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barrettw
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2005 9:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

First check if you installed it 180 deg off. Easy to fix. Remove the cap and loosen the bracket from the block enough that the distributor shaft can rotate. It's important not to loosen the bracket from the distributor. Rotate the shaft so the contact side of the rotor is 180 deg from where you started. It's keyed so it's easy to rotate it the 180 deg. If this doesn't improve the situation then it's timing related.
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justmike
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2005 9:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is definitely installed properly, it runs, just a little rough. As I mentioned, I don't have a timing light, but I did play with it a bit and was moving the distributor +or- 5 degrees which made a difference. I know I was close when I did the swap. I advanced it a little and the engine is now idling, accelerating and overall running really smooth. I know I'm really close if not there. All I have to do is get that light to confirm.

My van is an automatic, and I've never done timing on an automatic before. Should the mark on the flywheel be really obvious? Cause I can't see it, even after having a friend turning it with the starter a bunch of times.

mike
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2005 10:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vanagon 1986-1991 * 2100 Digifant

Distributors:
86-90 * To VIN 25-L-060000: VW 025-905-205M, Bosch 0237 520 007 > 025-905-205AC, 0237 520 038
90-91 * Fr VIN 25-L-060001 to VIN 25-M-105000: VW 025-905-205AC, Bosch 0237 520 038 > 025-905-205AG, 0237 520 046
1991 * Fr VIN 25-L-105001: VW 025-905-205AG, Bosch 0237 520 046
Dist Hall Sender Only: Bosch 1237 010 027
Ignition Control Module: None. Ignition and Advance controlled by Digifant ECU
Rotor: 04 170
Cap: 205M Dist 86-88: 03 212; 205M Dist 89-Early 90: 03 214; 205AC Dist: 03 360; 205AG Dist: 03 368
Distributor Cap Clip: 034-905-265, Bosch 1231 251 033
Coil: 86-87: 00 061; 88-89: 00 074; 90-91: 00 061
Vacuum Can: None. Advance controlled by Digifant ECU
Ignition Wires: 09 272
Spark Plug: W7CC, WR7DTC
Timing Set At:: 5deg BTDC @ 2000 rpm w/strobe. Thermotime Sensor (Digifant ECU Temp Sensor II) must be disconnected when performing timing adjustment. Engine Oil Temperature must be at 80c (176F) minimum.
Advance/Retard Range: Digifant ECU Controlled: 35deg @ 3000 rpm (+ or - 5deg)


Lights are cheap. This is what I have.. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Craftsman-Timing-li...2088QQrdZ1

Buuy something like this also http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Actron-CP-7676-Digi...enameZWD1V

For less than $50 you are done. I use "typewriter correction fluid" to make the timing mark easier to see.
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pocvw
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2005 10:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Randy, that multimeter that is on ebay that you linked to...is that a good brand to have? I am not familiar with brand names of these things. Thanks!
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 14, 2005 6:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

"Ratwell's choice" I think. I have one similar to that model, mine is a CP 7678, and I am pretty pleased with it.

It is nice when you can get them for $15 but those are new in the box for $25.
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pocvw
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 14, 2005 4:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome! Thank you kindly.
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pocvw
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 14, 2005 4:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome! Thank you kindly.
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pocvw
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 14, 2005 4:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome! Thank you kindly.
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pocvw
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 14, 2005 4:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Man, I hate when that happens! (But it does give me two more posts on my record!) Laughing
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