Author |
Message |
Tomswesty Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2005 Posts: 194 Location: Moscow, ID
|
Posted: Wed Jan 18, 2006 11:04 am Post subject: 4speed Transmission Removal |
|
|
Has anyone removed their manual transmission? The search did not reveal much information on this and was wondering how hard it is. I would be using a transmission floor jack to help lower it inside a garage out of the cold. Any thoughts or tips would be greatfully accepted. This would be from a 87 Westy and replacing it with a rebuilt transmission.
Thanks |
|
Back to top |
|
|
flyingCoyote Samba Member
Joined: January 14, 2006 Posts: 514 Location: Burp Hollow, OR
|
Posted: Wed Jan 18, 2006 6:32 pm Post subject: Re: 4speed Transmission Removal |
|
|
Tomswesty wrote: |
Has anyone removed their manual transmission? The search did not reveal much information on this and was wondering how hard it is. I would be using a transmission floor jack to help lower it inside a garage out of the cold. Any thoughts or tips would be greatfully accepted. This would be from a 87 Westy and replacing it with a rebuilt transmission.
Thanks |
This guide to doing a clutch job looks like it'd be a big help:
http://volksweb.relitech.com/clutch.htm |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Tomswesty Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2005 Posts: 194 Location: Moscow, ID
|
Posted: Wed Jan 18, 2006 6:37 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Thanks I'll read it to see if any supprises await. Guess no one likes to do trannys....... |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Ericthenorse Samba Member
Joined: October 03, 2004 Posts: 782 Location: Los Osos CA.
|
Posted: Wed Jan 18, 2006 6:53 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Make sure to support the motor when dropping the tranny, otherwise you might mess something up on the motor. unbolt the shift rod, slave cylinder, and axles.. unbolt the tranny mount from the body of the van, lower the tranny down just far enough that you can remove the bracket from the tranny. With the bracket out of the way, remove the 4 bolts holding tranny to engine, and slide the tranny foreward and out. You can leave the mount bracket on hte tranny and still get it out, but you will have to drop the tranny farther and risk stressing wires or coolent hoses in the engine compartment. _________________ '69 bug--rusty as hell
'91 vanagon carrat-slammed,5 speed,4 wheel disks,17x8.5's |
|
Back to top |
|
|
thinair Samba Member
Joined: December 22, 2005 Posts: 72 Location: Ann Arbor, MI
|
Posted: Wed Jan 18, 2006 10:47 pm Post subject: I just did it! |
|
|
I just pulled my trany 2 weeks ago, it wasn't too dificult, but I did run into some issues. The following will be a list of what worked and what didn't
I supported the engine with one jack up front near where the transmission seperates. Started unbolting everything, the tricky part is unbolting the clutch slave and connecting parts, WD40 is your best friend here!
Unbolting the CV joints will require either a hex shaped socket driver or a 12 point driver. Allen wrenches and torx sockets don't work , get the correct tools.
I tried to lower the transmission by myself using a floor jack, I pulled jurked, and jiggled that pig until WHAM I literally dropped the transmission. OOPS!!! luckly I was out of the way. Get some one to help, one person could ballance the transmission while the other works the jack.
I don't want to do this job again so I am replacing all the stuff that would require the removal of the transmission:
Clutch replacement, (oil on mine)
Throwout Bearing
Pilot Bearing (haven't tried to remove this yet)
Fly Wheel O Ring (in flywheel hole)
Fly Wheel felt seal (in flywheel hole
Engine Oil Seal (mine leaks)
If you plan on replacing the rear engine seal and the flywheel O ring and felt seal, you will need to remove the flywheel.
To remove the flywheel you need another hex driver 10mm a breaker bar and cheater bar. The flywheel bolts have locktight on them.
You also need some sort of device to keep the engine from turning when you are trying to take off the clutch and or flywheel. I used a C Clamp, but there are specific tools for that.
You will also need a 14mm hex driver or allen wrench for the drain and fill plugs on the transmission. Because I'm Cheap! I would not spend the $15 on a monster allen wrench that I will only use for this purpose, I bought a 14mm bolt and filed down the sides so that I can put a wrench on it to open the drain plug.
The link above was very helpful and I will be using it again when I tackle the pilot bearing.
Currently I am awaiting the Engine Seal, O Ring, and Felt seal from Bus Depot. Make sure you order the correct engine seal, what I thought was rear was the front. Front on this engine is where the transmission connects.
I hope this helps, I will post more when I am finished!
^^^thinair^^^ |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Tomswesty Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2005 Posts: 194 Location: Moscow, ID
|
Posted: Thu Jan 19, 2006 6:33 am Post subject: |
|
|
Thinair, thanks and hope yours turns out ok. Are you going to resurface the flywheel? I will be using a transmission floor jack made to cradle the tranny and keep it from falling. Are these heavy? I did one on an old Volvo once and just about crushed me.
Did you use jack stands or ramps to get your van up? |
|
Back to top |
|
|
thinair Samba Member
Joined: December 22, 2005 Posts: 72 Location: Ann Arbor, MI
|
Posted: Thu Jan 19, 2006 1:45 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Tomswesty, the flywheel seemed to be in great condition so I won't be touching that. The rebuilt transmission came in a box marked 96 lbs, but it would be a few lbs more with the oil inside. I used jack stands, only because the old trany wouldn't budge and it was the easiest way for me to lift the van. It's high enough, I wouldn't want it much higher as I was constantly accessing the engine from above for some of the bolts. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|