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grethi
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2006 3:15 pm    Post subject: dead clock Reply with quote

We all have them... clocks that don't work. I have the time and materials to fix one for my car, but I don't know what I'm fixing. Does anyone have any idea what breaks in the clocks?
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Mr. Bubblehead
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2006 3:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Usually the fusable link inside the clock. They are electromechanical, so not much else can go wrong with them.
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2006 3:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mine works twice a day....

who needs more than that?
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PIMPPRIDE
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2006 3:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

we have NOS type 3 clocks for sale but.... NO warranty! Razz

Anthony / ISP WEST
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Josie_Aus
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2006 3:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes.. i have heard of this so called "fuseable link"

However, i had my clock apart the other day and using that website that was given in a recent thread on a similar topic.. I couldn't find the fuseable link they were talking about.. and my internals looked different to the one pictured..

My clock is date stamped '71 i think..
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covelo
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2006 5:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can someone provide a link to this site? I had mine apart a couple of months ago, but couldn't get it working. I'd like to fix mine rather than buy another one. Thanks!
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Josie_Aus
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2006 9:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here...

http://www.aircooledtech.com/vdo_repair/
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ducman
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2006 11:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used that link and fixed my clock on my '66 w/ a dab of new solder. It runs about 10 minutes fast per week. I need to pull it out and adjust the speed. Easy fix once you figure out how to hold the "fuse" in place while you solder.
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jimmynotch
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 1:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think Tram fixes them. Maybe you can contact him about it...
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metropoj
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 6:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fusable link, the older ones had them. My /Newer/ one relied on the armature passing through a magnetic field. I think my armature got charged magnetically and when the clock gets powered, it stay in the magnetic field instead of cruising back and forth through the field Sad ..

Not sure what would have to happen here, perhaps use an old tape head demagnitizer and see if taht works ? Hmmmmm ....

My Bay clock as the old fusable link, it's a wind down / hit the solenoid / wind the spring, and repeat until clock breaks or power is cut Smile ... Neat to watch !!
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Josie_Aus
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 28, 2006 6:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes.. i think the later magnetic one is what i have Sad

Anyone succesfully fixed one of these?
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raphael BE
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 17, 2020 1:56 am    Post subject: Re: dead clock Reply with quote

I know it'a an old post but UP UP UP

I have same problem and the link to aircooldedtech is not working any more.

Any other good link ho to repair.

Tx

Raphaël
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EverettB Premium Member
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 17, 2020 8:42 am    Post subject: Re: dead clock Reply with quote

The site above seems broken but I dug up the info from the Wayback machine. Here it is:

VDO Kienzle Clock Movement Testing, Adjustment & Repair
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Ever been driving your VW, looked down at the clock there in the dash and wished it would tell you the REAL time and not just 12:00?? (that IS what everyone sets their broken clocks to, isn't it??) Well hopefully after reading this, you will be able to make minor repairs and adjustments to yours and get it back telling you the correct time and not just a perpetual 12:00.

How Is It Supposed To Work??

When power is applied to the terminal, basically an electromagnet (coil) is charged with electricity which causes the winding wheel to move separating the contact points. The winding wheel has a tension spring on the bottom of it which keeps pressure so that the points are drawn back together. The points are held apart for a short time by a small catch which grabs one of the gears on the mechanical clock mechanism putting tension on it; thus getting the second wheel moving. Once the clock has run between 1 - 2 minutes (or less), the contacts will be drawn together again causing the circuit to again be energized and the whole process to be repeated.

Testing, Adjustment & Repair

First you must remove the white cover and the metal mounting plate. There are 3 small nuts which hold on the white cover. One is hidden under the tamper seal. Don't worry about breaking the seal; the warranty has been expired for at least 2 - 3 decades now. I promise no VDO tamper seal police will knock down your door Wink The mounting plate is held on with 3 triangle push-on connectors. These will have to be carefully pried off.

NOTE: Type 3 clocks have the hands permanently mounted to the clock mechanism. Be aware that you seriously risk breaking the hands off by trying to remove them. This could render your clock useless. You've been warned!!

I always start by getting a good look at the thermo fuse. The thermo fuse is a soldered joint that is fused together with special solder that will melt and act as a fuse if the unit gets a short. Pic #1 shows a shot of a good thermo fuse. If that checks out, I do a continuity check to ensure the electronic parts of the clock are in order. To complete the circuit, you must ensure the contact points on the winding mechanism are closed as seen in pic #2. Pics #3 & #4 show me doing a continuity check of the unit as a whole (#3) and then a single part (#4)

#1
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

#2
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

#3
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

#4
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Chances are that the thermo fuse came un-fused and you're not getting power to the rest of the components in the system. These units are pretty robust and I have yet to see one that had anything but the thermo fuse broken. If the thermo fuse is broken you must re-solder it. VDO used a special solder which would melt if there was a short. I have been unable to locate any of this type of low-temp solder, so I just use what I've got. To be extra safe, you could put a low amp in-line fuse up-stream from the clock once it's replaced back into the vehicle.

If everything checks out O.K., hook it to a battery and give it a test. The instant power is applied the wheel that the contacts are on should move opening the contacts about 3/16" to 1/4". If everything else is working properly, the clock should come to life and start ticking. If not, here's some other things to look for. . .

Pic #5 shows the wheel that moves back and forth (I don't know the proper name for it, sorry) and basically runs the whole clock. I call it the second wheel since two complete cycles is basically one second. This is truly the heart of the clock. If this doesn't work right, than the clock won't work at all. I've found several that are loose fitting from the ends of the shafts wearing over time. If they are loose, you can make minor tension adjustments with the adjustment screw shown in pic #6. Screw it clockwise to tighten it and counter-clockwise to loosen it up. it only takes a small bit of adjustment to tighten things up usually.

#5
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

#6
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I always give the entire unit a good spraying of Liquid Wrench to lubricate all the gears as well as displace any moisture that might be in there.

These simple tests, repairs and adjustments will usually repair your clocks movement back to working order. If your clock has parts that are worn or broken, you may be able to remove and replace individual parts with a donor movement. This sort of repair could take special tools like a soldering gun or tiny screwdrivers so unless you have these, you may want to leave that to a professional watch repairman.

Now that you (hopefully) have your clock in working order, you will now be able to tell just how long it takes to get where you're going in that slow, but classy VW!!
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raphael BE
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 17, 2020 10:30 am    Post subject: Re: dead clock Reply with quote

Tx Evertt,

Just made all those check.
Fuse ok (back in place - had moved out)
Continuity check ok
Cleaned

When I connect to battery the the "contact point" Pics 2 in the explanation. It is moving (some mm) but nothing else happening ...

Any idea ...

Tx
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KTPhil Premium Member
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 17, 2020 11:47 am    Post subject: Re: dead clock Reply with quote

There are several threads about clocks, some about replacing the guts with a more modern quartz movement. Depending on how deep you want to into the works, you may find solutions there.
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 17, 2020 2:49 pm    Post subject: Re: dead clock Reply with quote

KTPhil wrote:
There are several threads about clocks, some about replacing the guts with a more modern quartz movement. Depending on how deep you want to into the works, you may find solutions there.


Yup, I've even converted a few to use a AA battery with a modern clock mechanism. I get 8 months to a year on a AA battery.
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 17, 2020 3:48 pm    Post subject: Re: dead clock Reply with quote

I have a 72 and 73 clock . The 72 never worked , the 73 has the same face yet has all the numbers the 72 just has the 12,3,6 &9.

These don't have the points like the early ones. The 72 didn't work and I found the magnet that swings past a coil was loose on the shaft so the magnets were touching the coil and were not centered over the coil. I just aligned the magnet and a drop of lock tight on the shaft that the magnet fits on and it worked the other one never got it to work so I gutted it and was going to use a battery powered modern movement.

I used to look at it and finally got it to keep time, now I just look at my watch , I'd rather have a tachometer in that space.
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raphael BE
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 19, 2020 3:57 am    Post subject: Re: dead clock Reply with quote

Hi all Tx for the feedback.
Juste tried for an extra 2 hours but no success. Smthg else is most probably broken.

Any Good Link to convert with modern Quartz?

Tx
Ps. : I search but I'm not the internet geek 😉
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 19, 2020 11:25 am    Post subject: Re: dead clock Reply with quote

raphael BE wrote:
Hi all Tx for the feedback.
Juste tried for an extra 2 hours but no success. Smthg else is most probably broken.

Any Good Link to convert with modern Quartz?

Tx
Ps. : I search but I'm not the internet geek 😉


You could do a search for clocks, or clock conversion. I know I've got pics in my gallery under parts I believe, where I showed doing a clock conversion.
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MKOF
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 26, 2020 6:57 pm    Post subject: Re: dead clock Reply with quote

Trying my luck to see if I get any response on this thread... I have done everything in EverettB's posts with the pictures - point are good as I have sanded them, fuse has been re connected, cleaned with electrical cleaner, and Have checked for continuity, all good. When I energize it (powered and earthed) she kicks in and starts to work.... SO where is the problem.... It stops after while (could be 10 minutes, could be 30 seconds). In picture #5 it seems to be this wheel that stops. the metronome action seems to slow and then stop.... Any ideas?
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