| Author |
Message |
MikeSoCal
Samba Member
Joined: October 05, 2014
Posts: 47
Location: Orange County, CA
|
 Posted: Thu Jan 19, 2017 1:17 pm Post subject: Re: Lowering a Bay FAQ |
 |
|
I've put about 200 miles on it and drove over some speed bumps and it feels like it's getting better so I'm betting on the ball joints also. My tires are new Hankook RA18's (195R14).
_________________
Restoring a 1971 VW Westfalia |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Tireblazer
Samba Member
Joined: September 04, 2010
Posts: 20
Location: Gentry Arkansas
|
| Posted: Wed Mar 01, 2017 7:05 am Post subject: Re: Lowering a Bay FAQ |
|
|
So I have acquired a set of Transporterhaus bay window spindles from a friend of mine and I replaced the ball joints. And bolted on the spindles. When I tightened up the nuts on the ball joints and the spindles got extremely tight to the point they will hardly move! I installed them just as you would a regular spindle. What have I missed on this install for them to get so tight? I reached out to Transporterhaus and they said that I needed there modified ball joints,any one using these have any info that can help
Thanks
Chip |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Dogo
Samba Member
Joined: May 21, 2009
Posts: 252
Location: Canada
|
| Posted: Wed Mar 01, 2017 8:02 am Post subject: Re: Lowering a Bay FAQ |
|
|
I haven't used the Transpoterhaus spindles, but if they are the ones they are known for, I know that they are different in that they have a lot of drop. 3.5", I believe. To achieve this and the wheel to fit, the ball joints are installed the opposite way/upside down. And so that they don't "slip out" the ball joints and arms are modified with C clip of sorts, and a groove in the modified ball joints and also a groove in the modified Arms to keep them safely in place. I don't think you can make those work with a non modified arm and ball joint. And if you did, I doubt your wheel would fit (unless your donking it)
Check the taper on the spindle's ball joint stem seat, i bet it has a double taper or they've reversed the taper, and the balljoints you installed, up side up, are binding somehow.
Last edited by Dogo on Wed Mar 01, 2017 11:16 am; edited 1 time in total |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Shaven
Samba Member
Joined: September 17, 2006
Posts: 879
Location: Australia
|
| Posted: Wed Mar 01, 2017 10:40 am Post subject: Re: Lowering a Bay FAQ |
|
|
ADMINS:
Can this please be made a Sticky???
_________________
the dc baggin is because its a well known fact that a restored sc will never be worth anywhere near what even a shitbox dc is |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
galencurrington
Samba Member
Joined: March 16, 2004
Posts: 426
Location: bowling green, ky
|
| Posted: Wed Mar 01, 2017 12:05 pm Post subject: Re: Lowering a Bay FAQ |
|
|
4 inch beam with empi drop spindles and wolfgangint adapters with 165/50/15 on aew fuchs i think they have et36.
_________________
"asking and getting are two different things" |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
petervalle
Samba Member
Joined: January 24, 2009
Posts: 74
Location: Tampa, FL
|
| Posted: Fri Mar 17, 2017 7:03 pm Post subject: Re: Lowering a Bay FAQ |
|
|
I searched for info on the ridetech shockwaves for the front. Did not find much info around here. Anyone has experience with them? I can make custom mounts but would like to know how they perform compared to regular air shocks.
Found the through rods here, 5/8 chromoly should get the job done.
http://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Scr...-axle-beam
I have a Narrowed 4inch 1969 Bay Window Beam with balljoints.
I want to put together a kit like bellow for my Bay Window.
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
petervalle
Samba Member
Joined: January 24, 2009
Posts: 74
Location: Tampa, FL
|
| Posted: Mon Mar 20, 2017 9:22 am Post subject: Re: Lowering a Bay FAQ |
|
|
Can anyone offer any experience of the quality of ride between shockwaves and regular airshocks? is it really worth the extra $$$?
Vintage V-dubs offers the kit for the Baywindow with the through rods and shockwaves. Anyone installed it? |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
cdennisg
Samba Member
Joined: November 02, 2004
Posts: 20275
Location: Sandpoint, ID
|
| Posted: Mon Mar 20, 2017 9:43 pm Post subject: Re: Lowering a Bay FAQ |
|
|
Don't know anything bout them, but do those put the entire weight of the front of the bus on the lower shock mount boss? If so, it seems you are just begging for a spectacular failure.
_________________
nothing |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
petervalle
Samba Member
Joined: January 24, 2009
Posts: 74
Location: Tampa, FL
|
| Posted: Tue Mar 21, 2017 11:26 am Post subject: Re: Lowering a Bay FAQ |
|
|
| cdennisg wrote: |
| Don't know anything bout them, but do those put the entire weight of the front of the bus on the lower shock mount boss? If so, it seems you are just begging for a spectacular failure. |
What you are saying is that if I use the through rod with just the Shock holding the bus up, the bottom bolt on the trailing arm might break?
What do you think of a reinforcement like this one which takes the load of the single bolt? It will be something along this idea. I have seen other people weld brackets around the bottom bolt for extra support.
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
cdennisg
Samba Member
Joined: November 02, 2004
Posts: 20275
Location: Sandpoint, ID
|
| Posted: Tue Mar 21, 2017 11:39 am Post subject: Re: Lowering a Bay FAQ |
|
|
^^^ That would certainly be an improvement.
_________________
nothing |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Trashman
Samba Member
Joined: May 18, 2016
Posts: 280
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
|
| Posted: Tue Mar 21, 2017 1:09 pm Post subject: Re: Lowering a Bay FAQ |
|
|
| petervalle wrote: |
I searched for info on the ridetech shockwaves for the front. Did not find much info around here. Anyone has experience with them? I can make custom mounts but would like to know how they perform compared to regular air shocks.
Found the through rods here, 5/8 chromoly should get the job done.
http://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Scr...-axle-beam
I have a Narrowed 4inch 1969 Bay Window Beam with balljoints.
I want to put together a kit like bellow for my Bay Window.
|
I'm pretty sure I've seen Ben (aka EvilBens on instagram and KCW) uses these on a cantilever style application on a bay. He might be the guy to talk to. Here's what I saw from him:
_________________
Bagged 1968 Neptune Blue "Deluxe" |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
petervalle
Samba Member
Joined: January 24, 2009
Posts: 74
Location: Tampa, FL
|
| Posted: Wed Mar 22, 2017 10:17 am Post subject: Re: Lowering a Bay FAQ |
|
|
| Looks like a great design. I wrote him a message on instagram, I dont use it much but hope he replies. Thanks for the info |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
jtvader
Samba Member
Joined: September 12, 2015
Posts: 3
Location: Billings, Montana
|
| Posted: Thu Mar 30, 2017 7:39 pm Post subject: Re: Lowering a Bay FAQ |
|
|
I used Wagenswest's 2 1/2" drop spindles on my 1973 bay window. I just wanted to leave a tip for everyone regarding one part of replacing your stock spindles. On Wagenswest's instruction sheet, it says to be sure to "use your seal races from your stock spindles". It was really hard to find any info on how to remove these. It was the weekend, so I figured my voicemail to Nate from Wagenswest would be answered monday morning. So, my buddy decided to apply a bit of heat to the seal races. With heat and some gentle prying with a couple of thin screw drivers, the races did come off. Once my buddy had figured it out, Nate actually returned my call! On a Saturday! Good guy. Very cool. Anyway, I hope this helps. Had us stumped for a while.
_________________
Loved bugs, but I am 6'5'. Going for a '73 bus instead. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
zwartePiets
Samba Member
Joined: January 05, 2009
Posts: 58
Location: Austin Texas
|
| Posted: Fri Apr 07, 2017 9:58 pm Post subject: Re: Lowering a Bay FAQ |
|
|
Front end question: Got my set up for Wagens West installed with 4" narrowed and spindles and the sort. But now I am getting a growning now in the front beam and after someone gets in the suspension does not bounce back up to like to stay as if its still loaded?
Also noticed the center pin has some slop in it, any thoughts on this one as well.
UPDATE: Went up one cluck, then pulled the spring packs and greased between each pack. Problems solved.
Note: the zerk fittings really don't do much, previously we pumped as much as we could into the beam till it squished out. When we pulled it apart half the inside of the beam was dry of grease. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
petervalle
Samba Member
Joined: January 24, 2009
Posts: 74
Location: Tampa, FL
|
| Posted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 6:29 pm Post subject: Re: Lowering a Bay FAQ |
|
|
Here is an update on my 69. Installed Vintage V-dubs adjustable spring plates, 3.5inch horseshoe plates, 195/60/14 tires. Need a little more adjusting of the suspension to get the correct height. As of now the trans mount is like 2 -3 inches from the ground. The trans and engine are out for rebuild.
Still working on the front.
Link
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Hayesmn67
Samba Member
Joined: May 02, 2016
Posts: 10
|
| Posted: Sun Apr 30, 2017 7:10 pm Post subject: Re: Lowering a Bay FAQ |
|
|
So I feel like I have read through this forum a bunch.. Just wanted to touch base before I make this huge purchase.
My plan is to order a 4" narrowed beam from WW and the 2.5" drop spindles. And I was thinking about doing the adjustable spring plates instead of the horseshoe plates.
My question resides in achieving the rear stance. Is there any benefit to the horseshoe plates over the adjustable plates? I was thinking that I could achieve the most desirable ride height with the adjustable plates.. Is anyone running this set up?
I plan on running my stock wheels with possibly a smaller tire up front.
Thanks for the help.
_________________
67 Beetle
68 Deluxe Bus |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Dogo
Samba Member
Joined: May 21, 2009
Posts: 252
Location: Canada
|
| Posted: Mon May 29, 2017 8:13 pm Post subject: Re: Lowering a Bay FAQ |
|
|
| Hayesmn67 wrote: |
So I feel like I have read through this forum a bunch.. Just wanted to touch base before I make this huge purchase.
My plan is to order a 4" narrowed beam from WW and the 2.5" drop spindles. And I was thinking about doing the adjustable spring plates instead of the horseshoe plates.
My question resides in achieving the rear stance. Is there any benefit to the horseshoe plates over the adjustable plates? I was thinking that I could achieve the most desirable ride height with the adjustable plates.. Is anyone running this set up?
I plan on running my stock wheels with possibly a smaller tire up front.
Thanks for the help. |
The advantage of the horseshoe plates over not having them is that your drive shafts are moved up in relation to the trailing arm. if you're pretty slammed, without a horseshoe, the trailing arm might hit the frame. The shaft might also hit the frame if you're slammed, but you'd be able to make only a small notch for the shaft alone to clear, as opposed to a big-ass notch to accommodate both shaft and trailing arm.
The advantage of the adjustable plate is the obvious fine tuning of the height and the fact that it will "drop out" when changing the wheel, which aids in changing the wheel.
You can also run both. Franklin's has the adjustable plates at a very reasonable price. I'm running both, WW horseshoes and Franklin's adjustable plates, and pretty happy with it |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
turbo_dub
Samba Member
Joined: July 27, 2007
Posts: 233
|
| Posted: Tue May 30, 2017 11:43 am Post subject: Re: Lowering a Bay FAQ |
|
|
| Dogo wrote: |
| Hayesmn67 wrote: |
So I feel like I have read through this forum a bunch.. Just wanted to touch base before I make this huge purchase.
My plan is to order a 4" narrowed beam from WW and the 2.5" drop spindles. And I was thinking about doing the adjustable spring plates instead of the horseshoe plates.
My question resides in achieving the rear stance. Is there any benefit to the horseshoe plates over the adjustable plates? I was thinking that I could achieve the most desirable ride height with the adjustable plates.. Is anyone running this set up?
I plan on running my stock wheels with possibly a smaller tire up front.
Thanks for the help. |
The advantage of the horseshoe plates over not having them is that your drive shafts are moved up in relation to the trailing arm. if you're pretty slammed, without a horseshoe, the trailing arm might hit the frame. The shaft might also hit the frame if you're slammed, but you'd be able to make only a small notch for the shaft alone to clear, as opposed to a big-ass notch to accommodate both shaft and trailing arm.
|
Not quite right, the horse shoe plate does not change anything in relation to how much frame clearance you have for axles or trailing arms. In fact, it moves everything up into location just the same as if you adjust the torsion arms.
It does affect how much you might have to notch the trailing arm. Without them you have to cut a lot.
The real benefit is it keeps your toe and camber in better alignment. Without them, you have aggressive toe and camber when lowered.
Last edited by turbo_dub on Wed May 31, 2017 9:42 am; edited 1 time in total |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
GfunkBus76
Samba Member
Joined: October 04, 2004
Posts: 378
Location: Cloverdale, BC, Canada
|
| Posted: Tue May 30, 2017 7:33 pm Post subject: Re: Lowering a Bay FAQ |
|
|
My 1976 bus was lowered the "cheap way" by Po. It rides like ass. Feel every crack in the road. Thinking of raising it back up. Rear seems fairly straightforward but I'm unsure how to adjust the front. I think he "cut and turned" it.
Is this something I can adjust easily or.... Might not go full stock, but I've got a family now and don't need to be bouncing off the roof. I tried to search this thread but couldn't find what I was looking for. Any insight appreciated!
Thanks in advance!
_________________
Gavin
1976 Westy - Customzation in slow-progress.
-8V TD swap
It Runs! -- http://youtu.be/kT5hOtwiOgk
And drives! - https://youtu.be/rVkoAgeOop0 |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Trashman
Samba Member
Joined: May 18, 2016
Posts: 280
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
|
| Posted: Tue May 30, 2017 7:47 pm Post subject: Re: Lowering a Bay FAQ |
|
|
| GfunkBus76 wrote: |
My 1976 bus was lowered the "cheap way" by Po. It rides like ass. Feel every crack in the road. Thinking of raising it back up. Rear seems fairly straightforward but I'm unsure how to adjust the front. I think he "cut and turned" it.
Is this something I can adjust easily or.... Might not go full stock, but I've got a family now and don't need to be bouncing off the roof. I tried to search this thread but couldn't find what I was looking for. Any insight appreciated!
Thanks in advance! |
If you're right and the PO cut and turned the center sections of the beam you have some options, sadly none of them are an easy adjustment. First, you could cut and turn them back, but this is really just hacking a hack. You could also get a new stock beam off the classifieds, or a new beam off companies like wagenswest, or you could even try building your own from scratch if you are so inclined.
Post up some pictures of your beam so we can see if it has been cut and turned or not. It is also possible that the PO removed some of the torsion leaves. Also hackery, but can be fixed if you can find some extra leaves somewhere.
_________________
Bagged 1968 Neptune Blue "Deluxe" |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
