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Lowering a Bay FAQ
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GfunkBus76
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PostPosted: Wed May 31, 2017 12:14 pm    Post subject: Re: Lowering a Bay FAQ Reply with quote

Trashman wrote:

If you're right and the PO cut and turned the center sections of the beam you have some options, sadly none of them are an easy adjustment. First, you could cut and turn them back, but this is really just hacking a hack. You could also get a new stock beam off the classifieds, or a new beam off companies like wagenswest, or you could even try building your own from scratch if you are so inclined.

Post up some pictures of your beam so we can see if it has been cut and turned or not. It is also possible that the PO removed some of the torsion leaves. Also hackery, but can be fixed if you can find some extra leaves somewhere.


I'll see if I can snap a few soon... Soon as in relatively (been a project of sorts for 13 years...). Thanks for the input! I'm going to see if I can find a stock beam somewhere for reasonable while I'm at it.
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Trashman
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PostPosted: Wed May 31, 2017 12:25 pm    Post subject: Re: Lowering a Bay FAQ Reply with quote

Has anyone ever tried experimenting with speedometer gear ratio adapters on their bus to make the speedo read correct with smaller tires? I found one of these on ebay for american cars and this specific one will lower speedo readings by 10%. Short of sending your speedo into a speedo shop this seems ideal.

I'd love to know if there is something like this for vw speedos. I've even read somewhere that some adapters like these are interchangeable between american cars and vws. Not sure if this specific one is though.

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GfunkBus76
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 03, 2017 9:28 pm    Post subject: Re: Lowering a Bay FAQ Reply with quote

Trashman wrote:
Post up some pictures of your beam so we can see if it has been cut and turned or not. It is also possible that the PO removed some of the torsion leaves. Also hackery, but can be fixed if you can find some extra leaves somewhere.


Here's some pics... I vacuumed up the cobwebs afterwards ... Smile


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Would this indicate a cut and turned beam?... Definitely do not see adjusters, etc.

Thanks! Noticed I've got two blown ball joints too (probably due to the rough ride and the abuse its generated?)... One upper and one lower on opposite sides.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 03, 2017 10:39 pm    Post subject: Re: Lowering a Bay FAQ Reply with quote

GfunkBus76 wrote:
Trashman wrote:
Post up some pictures of your beam so we can see if it has been cut and turned or not. It is also possible that the PO removed some of the torsion leaves. Also hackery, but can be fixed if you can find some extra leaves somewhere.


Here's some pics... I vacuumed up the cobwebs afterwards ... Smile

Would this indicate a cut and turned beam?... Definitely do not see adjusters, etc.

Thanks! Noticed I've got two blown ball joints too (probably due to the rough ride and the abuse its generated?)... One upper and one lower on opposite sides.


Someone notched and lowered your beam.
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GfunkBus76
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 04, 2017 8:16 am    Post subject: Re: Lowering a Bay FAQ Reply with quote

Tcash wrote:
Someone notched and lowered your beam.


Now to determine if I can reverse it....
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 04, 2017 8:26 am    Post subject: Re: Lowering a Bay FAQ Reply with quote

GfunkBus76 wrote:
Tcash wrote:
Someone notched and lowered your beam.


Now to determine if I can reverse it....


A couple of options.
Weld some adjusting plates on.
Set it to the ride height you want and weld the adjusters in place.

Good luck
Tcash

PS if it is sitting on the bump stops. It will never ride right.
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GfunkBus76
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 04, 2017 10:47 am    Post subject: Re: Lowering a Bay FAQ Reply with quote

Pretty sure the bumpstops are cut off... #nobumpstopsnoworries

I'll try and look into things some more... Hope to get it on the hoist soon, easier to assess.
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GfunkBus76
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 24, 2017 9:49 am    Post subject: Re: Lowering a Bay FAQ Reply with quote

GfunkBus76 wrote:

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Assuming the bottom of the notches would have been the original ride height?

Looking into getting adjusters and removing the beam to install over the fall/winter.

CSP Adjusters are easy for me to get through CIP (I'm in BC Canada). Although the WW Beefcake ones look better by design, I might just do the CSP ones...

Thanks for the tips. Will try and get it sorted out and add some pics eventually.
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Vee Dub Nut
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 10, 2017 10:36 am    Post subject: Re: Lowering a Bay FAQ Reply with quote

This thread is a mess due to its length, vague posts, and the photobucket crapout of 2017, but I wanted to add my info here. Hopefully it will help someone down the road. Pics are hosted here, so they wont go away.

1974 Late Bay Transporter
Wagenswest Slambay Special
4" narrowed beam
2.5" dropped spindles
3.25" horseshoe plates
17x7 fuchs wheels
205/45 tires on the front
205/50 tires on the rear

My Bus is a family cruiser, so I didn't want to slam it way down. Just wanted to get it lower and looking right for me.

Everything fits just right. No frame notch or tubs needed at this height (but this is about the limit you can go down before needing to do some frame/body mods). Bottom adjuster is all the way up, and top adjuster is one notch down from top.

Rear tires are essentially stock height, so no change in gearing. Fronts are about 0.5" shorter. With the larger ID of the 17" wheel, the rear wheel/tire goes off and on with no problems using horseshoe plates. The stock 14" (185R14) however WILL NOT, and does have to be aired down to install on the rear and then pumped back up.

Stock shocks on the rear. No shocks on the front currently, but plan to refit the stockers once I get shorter upper bolts.

I haven't driven it too much yet, so I can't comment on rubbing or anything. Lock to lock turning seems fine, and the ride quality so far is as good as stock (or better).

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AirKooledGarage
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 21, 2017 9:39 pm    Post subject: Re: Lowering a Bay FAQ Reply with quote

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1973 Bay
Wagonswest SlamBay kit
4" Narrowed beam
3.5" Horse shoe plates
1 outer notch down in rear
2" deep notch in chassis
Stock wheels for now

Need some input on shocks
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rider28
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 31, 2017 6:41 pm    Post subject: Re: Lowering a Bay FAQ Reply with quote

Hello everyone I’m in need of some help with my baywindow. Mine is slammed and just a couple days ago I busted a ball joint. What are some of the ways you have slammed your bays and the ride is not so rough.
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 31, 2017 6:51 pm    Post subject: Re: Lowering a Bay FAQ Reply with quote

rider28 wrote:
Hello everyone I’m in need of some help with my baywindow. Mine is slammed and just a couple days ago I busted a ball joint. What are some of the ways you have slammed your bays and the ride is not so rough.


What is your setup?

Maxed out balljoints are just waiting to bust. A combination of adjustable beam and drop spindles usually do it for people. Another option people do is a beam raise, anywhere from 1" to a full 7" where the bottom tube of the beam is where the top tube usually. This places the top tube inside the cabin.

If you want more travel, say with air bags, some people convert to a king and link pin beam from a split bus since they allow for more travel.
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 31, 2017 9:42 pm    Post subject: Re: Lowering a Bay FAQ Reply with quote

My set up is drop spindle wide five disk brakes, adjustable beam. The rear is has adjustable spring plates on 17’s wheels. My buddy mentioned 1967 link pin beam is stronger and more travel.
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 05, 2017 12:14 pm    Post subject: Re: Lowering a Bay FAQ Reply with quote

Hey Trashman what is your front set on your bay? Are you still running ball joint or link pin? How does it ride? Mine is not that low and I bottom out the ball joints and just broke one
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 10:10 pm    Post subject: Re: Lowering a Bay FAQ Reply with quote

rider28 wrote:
Hey Trashman what is your front set on your bay? Are you still running ball joint or link pin? How does it ride? Mine is not that low and I bottom out the ball joints and just broke one


I just have a 5" narrowed adjustable beam with ww drop spindles. Stock 14" wheels and lower profile tires help add to the low. Without even considering tires and any lowering modifications, my bus would be an inch and a half lower than yours on 17's.

Link pin does offer for travel but in turn you have more maintenance. Not to mention flipping the spindles on a link pin USUALLY makes them weaker since you are grinding away material. You have to strengthen then areas you grinding thinner OR just buy them from a reputable company that you know will make them solid enough to never fail, eg wagenswest.

I am assuming your disk brake beam came with new, good quality shocks?
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 11:14 pm    Post subject: Re: Lowering a Bay FAQ Reply with quote

Vee Dub Nut wrote:


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WOW that is nice! I followed your 68 build, but didn't notice one for this one. Did you have a build on this? I REALLY LIKE this one a lot! You did a great job!!
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 07, 2017 6:34 am    Post subject: Re: Lowering a Bay FAQ Reply with quote

Hansolo99 wrote:

Vee Dub Nut wrote:
QUOTED PICS REMOVED

WOW that is nice! I followed your 68 build, but didn't notice one for this one. Did you have a build on this? I REALLY LIKE this one a lot! You did a great job!!


Thanks for the comments! No build thread so far, but I've been meaning to. I do miss that 68, and it will be the one I always wish I could get back. But I sold it for a reason, and quite honestly, this 74 fits how we use a Bus SOOOOO much better. Plus, this 74 is essentially making this dream bus that has been in my head for a LONG time a reality. I'm having fun Cool
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2018 9:53 am    Post subject: Re: Lowering a Bay FAQ Reply with quote

Hard to find the answer in this looooong thread so hoping someone can chime in.

When lowering the rear, I see 3.25" and 4.5" horseshoe plates. I want to go low but want to avoid notching the frame. I'm OK cutting the bump stop parts though.

Can you go with the 4.5" plates without notching?

I also see lowered trailing arms for sale. Are these needed and how do they help?

I would be using 15" wheels from CIP1 most likely.
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 21, 2018 7:16 am    Post subject: Re: Lowering a Bay FAQ Reply with quote

bonzai272 wrote:
When lowering the rear, I see 3.25" and 4.5" horseshoe plates. I want to go low but want to avoid notching the frame. I'm OK cutting the bump stop parts though.

Can you go with the 4.5" plates without notching?


3.25” drop plates work fine without notches (this is what I’m running on mine), but 4.5” I believe would necessitate notches. The issue is the CV shaft. Anything much lower then 3.25 and you start having problems with the CV shaft hitting the lower part of the frame on bumps. There just isn’t enough room for it to articulate. With my 3.25 plates I have never bumped the CV shaft even completely loaded with the entire family, but it rides close.

I don’t know anything about lowered trailing arms.. got a link?
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 21, 2018 9:56 am    Post subject: Re: Lowering a Bay FAQ Reply with quote

Vee Dub Nut wrote:
bonzai272 wrote:
When lowering the rear, I see 3.25" and 4.5" horseshoe plates. I want to go low but want to avoid notching the frame. I'm OK cutting the bump stop parts though.

Can you go with the 4.5" plates without notching?


3.25” drop plates work fine without notches (this is what I’m running on mine), but 4.5” I believe would necessitate notches. The issue is the CV shaft. Anything much lower then 3.25 and you start having problems with the CV shaft hitting the lower part of the frame on bumps. There just isn’t enough room for it to articulate. With my 3.25 plates I have never bumped the CV shaft even completely loaded with the entire family, but it rides close.

I don’t know anything about lowered trailing arms.. got a link?


Have any photos you can post of your bus? Here is the link to the lowered trailing arms I saw. Not sure how these come into play. Probably would still need to notch if using the 4.5" plates.

http://www.vintagev-dubs.com/shop/1968-79-bus-elite-lowered-trailing-arms/
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