Lowering a Bay FAQ

[Vee Dub Nut]

Check my gallery for pics (some posted a few replies above too). I’m not super slammed by any means, and I’m also running 17’s with (near) stock diameter tires. I’m as far down as I can go without needing tubs and notches. I only get the slightest of a rub up front when completely loaded and hit a larger bump/dip.

Those trailing arms are interesting... I’d have to go poke my head back underneath to see, but I thought the cv shaft would be the first interference. Also, maybe there is difference in frame rails between early and late bays? Not sure on that either.
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Fightin' Texas Aggie Class of 2006

67 Beetle (TBD)

74 Transporter (EJ25 Swapped) - Build Thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

See all my VW pics on Instagram @ vee_dub_nut

[bonzai272]

Saw the pics. Looks good.

Anyone have photos and/or a how-to of how they notched their frame?

I noticed that same company I just linked sells a bolt-in c-notch kit. Basically line it up, cut the notch, then drill the holes and bolt the kit to the frame. Anyone have any experience with it?

http://www.vintagev-dubs.com/shop/1968-79-bus-bolt-on-c-notch-clips/
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1955 Beetle

[Trashman]

I wouldn't mess with those bolt on frame notches. If you're going to be cutting into your frame, do it right and weld everything in. Theres three general types of rear notches.

First there's the regular c-notch for the cv's

Then there is a big notch for both trailing arm and cv. This way you retain some of the original frame, box it in, and add more material on top.

Lastly, there are the big daddy notches where you cut out the entire section of frame and replace it with rectangular tube tucked as high as you can get it.

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Bagged 1968 Neptune Blue "Deluxe"

[AirKooledGarage]

[Vee Dub Nut]

Excellent explanation on the different notches and their progression Trashman!

bonzai272, just depends on how low you want to go... on stock diameter tires, I’m at the practical limit (at least IMO). Shorter tires would be the next easy thing, past that it’s tubs and notches.
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Fightin' Texas Aggie Class of 2006

67 Beetle (TBD)

74 Transporter (EJ25 Swapped) - Build Thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

See all my VW pics on Instagram @ vee_dub_nut

[bonzai272]

Vee Dub Nut, your bus is so clean. Yours is set basically exactly how I would do it, as low as possible without notching and without axle hitting. However, Id probably go with 15" wheels instead.

Anyone have any photos with 15" wheels as low as itll go without hitting, notching or tubbing?
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1955 Beetle

[Vee Dub Nut]

[pgtips]

Hi,

I hope someone can help with a pic.
I had my bay mild lowered inch or so all round but I'd like to get rid of the negative camber .

I read on the first page from long-roofs post

[72camper]

[bonzai272]

That is perfect, thanks for sharing!
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1955 Beetle

[bonzai272]

I found a pair of horseshoe plates in a box from the previous owner but no markings on them.

They are however, zinc coated. Anyone know who might have made them? Most the ones Ive seen are raw or black.
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1955 Beetle

[metz]

[bonzai272]

Couple quick questions I'm sure easy answers but hard to find in this long thread.

Installing 3.25" horseshoe plates on rear of my 70 bus, I need to remove drums in order to disconnect e-brake....correct?

I'll obviously remove the bump stop but will I also need to cut off the bump stop arm near the spring plate?

Is disconnecting the hard brake line from the wheel cylinder required?

Lastly, what shocks are people running?
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1955 Beetle

[bonzai272]

I think I found some of my answers. Yes drums need to be removed but doesnt appear I need to cut off the bump stop arm.

Still not sure if disconnecting the hard brake line is required and what type of shocks people are running.

Ive read stock shocks and "bug shocks" but no specifics. Anyone?
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1955 Beetle

[Brian_e]

I used KYB's from the back of a bug with horseshoe plates. Rode really good, and bolted up cheap and easy.

I don't think you will need to remove the hard line. There should be just enough flex in the soft line to get stuff moved around and in position.

Brian

[bonzai272]

Thanks for the reply!

I assume you used stock length rear bug shocks instead of lowered bug shocks, right?

What did you use for the front shocks? (assuming you had an adjustable beam with dropped spindles)
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1955 Beetle

[bonzai272]

Got the rear end finished today. Ran out of good daylight so Ill post pictures later.

Installed 3.25" horseshoe plates and went with 15x5.5 chrome 5-spokes on 185/60R15 tires.

I was luckily able to get the rear wheels on without having to flatten the tire or do anything else. I dont have shocks on the rear yet though so that may have helped.

Driving around the block wasnt even that bouncy without shocks so I may leave it shock-less. We'll see.

No notching needed either as no impact between axle and frame, even with me jumping on the bumper. No tire rubbing either.

Still waiting on the front beam to arrive so I can get the nose down level.
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1955 Beetle

[bonzai272]

3.25" horseshoe plates installed with 15x5.5 chrome 5 spokes on 185/60R15 tires. no rubbing, no frame notching, no axle hitting frame, no having to flatten tire to get wheels mounted.

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1955 Beetle

[bonzai272]

Got my Wagenswest 4" narrowed beam finally installed. Bus already had dropped spindles.

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1955 Beetle

[atech]