MiGi II with VW engine revving high when warming up

[Leoukaj]

I was wondering if someone can help me with a problem im having. So i have a MG MiGi II and i set it up with a new distributor, new carb, switched over to electric fuel pump (with the regulator set to 2.5),and a few other new parts and i adjusted the carb the right way but it keeps revving as it heats up. It starts ip cold at about 800rpm them as it warms up it keeps getting louder it goes past 2000 rpm and keeps going over 3000 rpm until i shut it off. What can be the problem?

[oprn]

Is the carb a Solex copy? If it is then I suspect that you have not put a power wire to the choke element or if you have the choke element is not working or is out of adjustment.

I am also wondering why the engine would need a need fuel pump, carb and distributor all at the same time. It's been my experience that the original German parts are superior but sometimes need a good clean up/gaskets etc. Aftermarket parts often introduce as many problems as they fix these days.

Post some engine pictures please.
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We had the stone age, the bronze age, the industrial age and now we are in the age of mass deception and mind control for corporate profit. (The mass media age)

[Leoukaj]

Thanks for the reply i only needed to change the distributor because it was’nt starting but i just decided to swap out some parts just to have new ones and not have problems later. I will upload some pics.

[oprn]

That is NOT a stock carb! It does have an electric choke so the choke comments should still apply. That is also not the stock distributor either.
_________________
We had the stone age, the bronze age, the industrial age and now we are in the age of mass deception and mind control for corporate profit. (The mass media age)

[Leoukaj]

[oprn]

It looks to me like the mechanical fuel pump is out of the loop so should not effect anything.

Does the choke open fully on it's own? Is there a fast idle cam on the carb choke linkage that is hanging up? You do not have a vacuum pot on the distributor so are all the vacuum ports plugged on the carb? Is there a vacuum leak somewhere between the carb and the heads on the intake?

That is all I can think of not having owned or tinkered with a progressive on an air cooled VW.
_________________
We had the stone age, the bronze age, the industrial age and now we are in the age of mass deception and mind control for corporate profit. (The mass media age)

[jinx758]

Howdy ...

I ran that same carburetor on my '74, owned from '93 to '04. The adjustments are up front near the shroud. I used needlenose pliers but the tips were covered in PlastiDip for grip.
I lived with the off idle stumble & pig-rich setting that gave horrible gas mileage with easily fouled plugs.

Did you do valves, points, timing, & then carburetor when fully warmed up ?
Points affect timing & no vacuum advance means you set timing ALL IN @ about 2,800RPM - static is just to get it to run.
ANY vacuum leak is bad.
A $25 RPM/dwell meter would serve you nicely. Mine is an old analog AccuTron.

I go by numbers - not ear ... since 1988ish

You got this ... stay safe

jinx

That choke wire is rusty, crusty, & has a cheap connector.
_________________
" It's not valuable unless you learn something from an experience. " Henry Ford

It's not unlike the same difference

You can't push a rope


VALVES (cold)
POINTS
TIMING
CARB (fully warmed engine)

SCRAPE ALL GROUNDS

My Craigslist rescued 100 footer :
1971 Standard Bug
1776cc dual port
034 distributor
38mm EGAS Carburetor