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Turn signal switch repair
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Ferrety66
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 23, 2012 6:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just pulled my switch apart! cleaned it, lubricated it and removed initial rust and stopped that rust before it could spread all over the switch. I have a 66 beetle with a SFW switch and you pictures as well as guidance gave me the confidence to go for it. I even got the dimmer on the lever connected back again. Thanks great post, helped a lot!
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karmann17
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 5:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello,
I need some help to assembled my turn signal switch. I have this:

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[/URL

I don't know where I must placed the thinnest ring on the right and the two small round metal on the left (think it's at the end of each side of the bigest string, but not sure)

Thanks a lot for your help!

Red Ghia Red Ghia Red Ghia
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glutamodo Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 9:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, I've seen those before. Yes the discs do go on either end of the big
spring.

The "thin ring" goes under the large clip that holds it together. That's what I meant previously when I said "This particular switch did not have a washer beneath the ring, but I've seen them there before."

Don't forget the "tip" about using a piece of wire to hold the contact and spring in place.

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karmann17
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 12:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok thank you, I'll try like that.
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karmann17
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 3:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Done!

thanks a lot.

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NCdad
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 17, 2012 5:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just wanted to say Thanks for this thread...

Not sure why, but the switch started smoking, ( something shorted )
pulled over, and cut it off, it stopped smoking, but I unhooked the battery, and towed it home after getting my truck and towbar.

I took my switch apart, and took some pictures for reference...

Not sure if this is an original switch, can anyone verify?
anyway, I think I found the problem, in the last picture... the wires under the contact board look melted.

Does that pad come off?

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Noticed that the SWF is in a diamond shape, where Glutamodo's Photo shows one in a circle... ???

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Was thinking that this was burned, but I checked the wires and they were fine... I think it is from the grommet going through the dash, just rubbing over the years.

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So I guess my question is CAN IT BE FIXED or better off getting a replacement and saving this for spare parts?
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glutamodo Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 17, 2012 5:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The fact that it has a VW part number on it rather than an SWF one I would tend to suspect that it's original.

The bakelite pad you mean? That's kind of permanently attached - if you were to break the heads of those off of those peened down studs, I suspect you'd have a bitch of a time getting it attached again.

That switch looks really nice inside. I don't see any reason for it to have started smoking. What position was the switch in when it happened? In the middle position, there should be no pathway for it to short out! I'd be verifying with an ohm-meter that the wires hadn't shorted somewhere inside there. They sure don't look melted at all where they come out of the vinyl sleeve though... Think

That diamond logo - yeah that's old. Not sure when they dropped that logo, probably early 60s - I have this photo of a 61 switch with it:

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There are often used switches with busted off arms dirt cheap in the Classfiieds - you might be able to score one and stick your good arm onto it.


-Andy
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NCdad
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 17, 2012 5:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool, thanks Andy.

I think it comes from when my son was helping me with the rear turn signals, He was moving the switch, and I was looking at the back of the VW.

I came back up to the drivers side and saw the switch at the 6 o'clock position and about shit a brick. I moved it back up but then the left T/S wouldn't blink.

I am thinking while driving... the habit of using the turn signal to turn left, and not seeing the blinker working .. it stayed like that and after a while it got hot somehow.???


Thanks for the idea to look for a switch with a busted arm. I was surprised how clean it was when I opened it...
The C clip had the washer too underneath it... and the Big Spring had the small round end pieces too.
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4ferraras
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 20, 2012 1:43 pm    Post subject: Broken turn signal switch Reply with quote

Hi everyone. I have a Manx on a 63 chassis. The turn signal switch is actually broken. The end of the lever was broken off. Does anyone know if a later model will work. I see these go for about $100.00 Are they any good?
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NCdad
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 20, 2012 3:23 pm    Post subject: Re: Broken turn signal switch Reply with quote

4ferraras wrote:
Hi everyone. I have a Manx on a 63 chassis. The turn signal switch is actually broken. The end of the lever was broken off. Does anyone know if a later model will work. I see these go for about $100.00 Are they any good?


So your lever broke but your signals work?
any photos of what yours looks like?

I think '66 started the bright lights built into the turn signal.
is your beige like mine above?
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4ferraras
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2012 12:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
So your lever broke but your signals work?
any photos of what yours looks like?

I think '66 started the bright lights built into the turn signal.
is your beige like mine above?


Yes, the lever broke off. I guess the PO clamped another piece of plastic on to help lengthen the lever. It doesn't work well. The signals do work but I have to hold the lever in the direction I want to turn, which is difficult when you're trying to downshift and turn as well!
Mine is black. It's supposed to stay down until the turn is completed right. The car isn't that old!

I'll get pictures soon. It's still in the vehicle, I didn't want to take it out until I've got a replacement.

Thanks!
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nreslifer
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 16, 2013 2:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Has anyone attempted to drill out those pins out and replace them when
the head comes off?
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pav266
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 17, 2013 5:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, you can drill out the pins. I did this years ago and tapped the hole for a very small machine screw. I no longer have the car, but the repair lasted for many years.
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nreslifer
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 4:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paul
Do you remember the size drill bit,tap and machine screw?It's in nice condition except for that.
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dabirdguy
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 21, 2013 8:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi guys...
I bought 66 Beetle that is a mess. It was a half started project that the owners gave up on. I did not get to dis-assemble it , and had to scrap the wiring due to a bunch of shorts and paint overspray on the wiring.
I bought the Rebel Wiring harness and need to know what the wires coming out of the steering column connect to.

There appears to be :
1- Brown and white wire - fairly large
2- Black and white wires - one may also have a green stripe. - fairly large .
2- smaller brown wires.


Anyone know what they are for?
I assume that the thicker ones are for the turn signals.
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glutamodo Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 7:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

In 1966 the turn switch has 5 wires. Three are for the the turn signals - 49a from the flasher relay, and L & R output to the left and right circuits, and two are for the high beam switch, one -S from the relay, the other goes to to a ground. The 49a wire should branch into a blue wire for the dash arrow light, and the solid brown ground wire may end in a ring terminal (1966 original) or in one or two push on terminals (1967 and replacement switches)

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-Andy
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fpeck1948
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 2:31 pm    Post subject: Set screw Reply with quote

anyone know the size of the set screw which keep the turn signal assembly in place and keeping it from turning on the column.

Thanks
Frank



karmann17 wrote:
Done!

thanks a lot.

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glutamodo Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 2:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Beats me, it's a captive screw since it is supposed to have a contact plate permanently attached to it on the inside. If you pry off that contact plate, I suppose you could remove it, (and without that contact plate you'll chew up your steering column tube.)

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dabirdguy
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 9:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Andy!!
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strattonjr
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PostPosted: Sun May 19, 2013 10:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does anyone have a list of all the contact points that need to be lubed? What type of grease are you using? Dielectric?
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