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small nut freeway flyer?
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ronnie
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2006 1:01 pm    Post subject: small nut freeway flyer? Reply with quote

I dropped my 62 off at Volksfab to get the body work done, and it's time to turn my attention to the the engine/trans in hopes of having everything to put it together when it comes home. It looks like the engine, at least for the time being will be a 1776 single carb, and most likely single port. For the sake of keeping it closer to original, I thought about putting in a freeway flyer center section with the og small nut boxes, but there isn't much info out there on the combination. It would be nice to turn 3500 rpm's at hwy speeds, and still have drivability, but is it possible? I'm looking for good all around drivablity in a hilly area, so a huge gap between 3rd and 4th won't work.

Or should I just get over it and put in a big nut fwy flyer tranny and later front beam with the bigger cheaper brakes? This will be our travel bus and one that my wife will actually drive, so the bigger brakes are tempting, but I'm resisting taking out all the stock suspension.
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a-train
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2006 1:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My opinion would be to go with the later upgrades and hold onto the stock pieces just in case you need them or want to sell the bus in the future. I think the drivetrain is OK to upgrade, cuz nobody really will notice that it's not stock unless they start climbing underneath your bus. And you already upgraded the engine. But if you are more of a purist, I understand wanting to keep it as original as possible.

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splitpile
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2006 1:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It depends on what size tires you are going to use in the rear.
I had a 3.88/82 4th in my 62 with 205/75/15 and could crusie at 65 mph.
It ran out about the same as a big nut 4.12/82 4th (67 geared trans)
If you really want to spend dough you could go to a 3.44 r/p (available again) with either a 82 or 89 4th. I had the 3.44/82 4th in my DD for a while with big nut rgb and could cruise at 75/80 mph, but loaded the hills would kill me. If I had small nut rgb's it would of worked better.
I started with a 1776 sp and the trans combo did not work at all (not enough power) When I put the stroker 1800 in it, it was day and night.
So being it's going to be a daily driver I would go with the 4.12/82 big nut rgb, 250 dollars cheaper then a 3.88, if built right. The good 3.88 r/p have to use a splined 82 4th gear (only available new) where as a 4.12 r/p uses a keyed 82 4th. Readily available.
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ronnie
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2006 4:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A-train, I'm not really in one camp or the other when it comes to being a purist, my level of mods usually depends on the bus. If I wasn't planning to use the 62 as my travel bus it would be bone stock, but realisticly I'm going to put a lot of miles on the bus and I want it to be a pleasure for both my self and the wife.

Ronnie, I was planning to give you a call sometime this week once I had a better idea of what I want. I found an old post of yours on VB from 2000 saying that you were running a small nut freeway flyer(only small nut FF reference I found) and 1776 that you seemed pretty happy with at the time. I'm a little confused with the lack of power comment about the 1776 you made above, were you happy with it until after you installed the stroker? or was that with something other than the 3.88?
Also, do you know what your rpm's were at 65 with the 3.88 small nut? I think you cruise at slightly higer rpm's than i like to?

here's the specs from VB:
Quote:
I have a 3.88 ring and pinion, small nut r/b in my 62 panel (famous swap
bus)
It is powered by a fully balanced 1776 engine specs are;
90.5 p/l
New single port heads with 40 mm intake and 32mm exhaust valves
I don't remember the cc's but am running 7-1 compression (approx)
.040 copper head gaskets (the secret)
High rev springs, Manley valves (pricey), silicon bronze guides
69 welded counter weighted crank balanced with flywheel (lightened 2 lb's.)
Rebuilt rods, balanced end to end total weight within 1/2 gram (time
consuming)
CB performance cheater cam (airplane grind)
Scat lightning lifters
New rocker arm assume. with 9 mm adjusting screws with ball ends
NOS empi single port end castings with a 34 pict 3 with 145 main jet
009 dizzy, soon to be changed to an 010 dizzy with electronic ign.
30 mm gear oil pump
CB Performance mini sump with cleanable filter


I'm not married to a 1776, and really the torque from a stroker would be nice, but I don't think it's in the budget right now. I don't drive it like a hot rod or anything, just looking for a little more power to go with the fwy flier. I had one in a 67 with a 1600 and huge gap between third and fourth 10 years ago, and drivability sucked.

I want stock looking tires on the bus, the type2 library says 205/75-15 is the closest to stock, but I have those on my panel and they look a little big to me. I'm open to tire suggestions as well, but didn't want to start yet another tire thread.
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Campy
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2006 4:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You would be better off using the big stub axle RGBs. The stub axle would be bigger and be held to the inner case with a peening nut, have bigger brakes, and be geared higher. A 1964-1967 frontend would have bigger brakes, use more inexpensive wheel cylinders, and have thicker link pins. If you ever wanted stock running gear, it would be easy to go back to stock.
Stay away from a 1963 frontend. I put a later model one in my 1963 camper because 1963 was a transition year. The same goes for 1963 RGBs.
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RINC
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2006 7:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I got to drive my 66 Westy with the 67 freeway flyer ( 3:88 r/p, .84 4th gear ) last weekend. It did fine with the 14in rims running 195/75/14's. I got 3600rpm at 70. With the 1600dp I'll still not be able to climb a hill but the trip from Phoenix to Orange County for the Classic is SOMEWHAT flat. If it comes down to it I'll throw in the 1915cc from my 63.
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splitpile
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2006 10:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ronnie wrote:
A-train, I'm not really in one camp or the other when it comes to being a purist, my level of mods usually depends on the bus. If I wasn't planning to use the 62 as my travel bus it would be bone stock, but realisticly I'm going to put a lot of miles on the bus and I want it to be a pleasure for both my self and the wife.

Ronnie, I was planning to give you a call sometime this week once I had a better idea of what I want. I found an old post of yours on VB from 2000 saying that you were running a small nut freeway flyer(only small nut FF reference I found) and 1776 that you seemed pretty happy with at the time. I'm a little confused with the lack of power comment about the 1776 you made above, were you happy with it until after you installed the stroker? or was that with something other than the 3.88?
Also, do you know what your rpm's were at 65 with the 3.88 small nut? I think you cruise at slightly higer rpm's than i like to?

here's the specs from VB:
Quote:
I have a 3.88 ring and pinion, small nut r/b in my 62 panel (famous swap
bus)
It is powered by a fully balanced 1776 engine specs are;
90.5 p/l
New single port heads with 40 mm intake and 32mm exhaust valves
I don't remember the cc's but am running 7-1 compression (approx)
.040 copper head gaskets (the secret)
High rev springs, Manley valves (pricey), silicon bronze guides
69 welded counter weighted crank balanced with flywheel (lightened 2 lb's.)
Rebuilt rods, balanced end to end total weight within 1/2 gram (time
consuming)
CB performance cheater cam (airplane grind)
Scat lightning lifters
New rocker arm assume. with 9 mm adjusting screws with ball ends
NOS empi single port end castings with a 34 pict 3 with 145 main jet
009 dizzy, soon to be changed to an 010 dizzy with electronic ign.
30 mm gear oil pump
CB Performance mini sump with cleanable filter


I'm not married to a 1776, and really the torque from a stroker would be nice, but I don't think it's in the budget right now. I don't drive it like a hot rod or anything, just looking for a little more power to go with the fwy flier. I had one in a 67 with a 1600 and huge gap between third and fourth 10 years ago, and drivability sucked.

I want stock looking tires on the bus, the type2 library says 205/75-15 is the closest to stock, but I have those on my panel and they look a little big to me. I'm open to tire suggestions as well, but didn't want to start yet another tire thread.


I was happy with it, in my post above I stated that a freeway flyer with small nut rgb's is close to the same ratio as a stock 67 big nut.
When I have the 4.12 r/p trans built I have a taller 3rd gear installed so the drop between 3 and 4 is closer and gives you a really long 3rd.
I believe I have run about every stock numbered geared trans and enough different engine combo's. I am always looking for better.
I am ready to swap the trans out of my DD, it has a 4.12 with an 89 4th (straight axle) I top at 68 mph at 3800 rpm;s. I am putting in a 3.88 r/p with a 82 4th and a 1.21 .
My 63 flipseat has a 4.12 1.21 3rd and 82 4th big nut. I have 195/15 tires on it and it cruises easily at 65/68 mph and not to bad on hills except big ones.
I had a sp 1600 then the 1800 and now a 1776 with duel kadrons.
I am going to build a 1680 for it next with stock 34 pic 3 duel port or if I sell it I'll make it a s/p with 30 pict 1 to keep it original looking.

For my DC I'm having a 3.44 r/p trans built don't know which 3 and 4 yet as I haven't got the rear tires and wheels (BTR's 4 inch fronts and 7 rears with 24/5/15 for the front and 26/6/15's for the rear) yet
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Clara Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 01, 2006 8:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

remember that Splitpile Ronnie lives in a flat area, while
Ronnie from Oregon lives in a hilly area.

Ronnie, if you want to drive my 65 westy with 3.88 r/p bus 4th/big nuts, just let me know. If you have a 1776 handy and want to swap it in to test how it does with that gearing, not a problem. It is geared kinda high for the 1600dp in the bus, IMO. 195 75 R14 tires

I have heard of people liking 3.88s with little nuts.

I like the 4.38r/p with big nuts and 15" wheels with 205 75 15 tires in my 61 for both freeway and hills... just drove it to SoCal and hit the SST on the way home.

I dunno what people mean by "freeway flier". I think it can mean differnt things to different people, so it helps if you are more specific. I used to think it ment a 3.88 r/p, but I think some people talk about higher 4th gears with that term too.
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ronnie
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 02, 2006 3:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry Ronnie, I missed the 67 comparison in your first post the first time around.
Thanks for the test drive offer Clara, if you didn't live so far I'd take you up on it.
I think FF means any trans geared to go fast on the hwy without turning high RPM's, which ever way you decide to do it. The FF I had before seemed(12 years ago) to just have a tall 4th, and it was terrible.

Thanks for the input everyone, I haven't decided but am leaning torward the 3.88 big nut since I'll have a 1776 in it. I'll post back what I got and how it drives when it's done.
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bubblehead
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 04, 2006 7:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Splitpile. What do you feel is the best gearing (R&P,3&4th)for a small nut rear, stock tires and motor in the 1600-1800 range? I have a low mileage 59 and dont want to swap out everything.
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 2:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ronnie wrote:
Sorry Ronnie, I missed the 67 comparison in your first post the first time around.
Thanks for the test drive offer Clara, if you didn't live so far I'd take you up on it.
I think FF means any trans geared to go fast on the hwy without turning high RPM's, which ever way you decide to do it. The FF I had before seemed(12 years ago) to just have a tall 4th, and it was terrible.

Thanks for the input everyone, I haven't decided but am leaning torward the 3.88 big nut since I'll have a 1776 in it. I'll post back what I got and how it drives when it's done.


Ronnie - any update on your 1776 3.88 or progress to report?
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 3:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bubblehead wrote:
Splitpile. What do you feel is the best gearing (R&P,3&4th)for a small nut rear, stock tires and motor in the 1600-1800 range? I have a low mileage 59 and dont want to swap out everything.


I`d also be interested to know as I`m considering putting a 1776 or 1915 engine in my 60 and don`t want to swap everything out so have been pondering what gearing to go for with the small nut rgb`s. I`m running p205/75/15 tyres. Any ideas Splitpile?
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 9:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Campy wrote:
You would be better off using the big stub axle RGBs. The stub axle would be bigger and be held to the inner case with a peening nut, have bigger brakes, and be geared higher. A 1964-1967 frontend would have bigger brakes, use more inexpensive wheel cylinders, and have thicker link pins. If you ever wanted stock running gear, it would be easy to go back to stock.
Stay away from a 1963 frontend. I put a later model one in my 1963 camper because 1963 was a transition year. The same goes for 1963 RGBs.


do you have the specific info on the 63 only parts? I have a sept 62 15 window that i am about to rebuild the trans and rgb assemblies and need part numbers for the bearings and seals/kits needed. so far looks like a rebuilt 412 center section with the stock reduction boxes.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 10:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am running Small Nuts with 3:88 and .82 4th, 1.21 3rd and 27-8.5-14's on my 59 panel. You are looking at 3500 rpm @ 65.
I'm running a 1641 single carb and the power is real good. I come on the freeway at speed even on uphill ramps. (unloaded of course)
If you want to run a stock diameter tire and a 1776 with small nuts I bet you could get away with the 3.44 .82 4th - 1.21 3rd.
Maybe crunch the #'s and see what your rpm's will be for comparison.
Not sure on the splined this and that gear sets - I just called rancho and got the job done. They have great prices on bearings for the RGB's as well.
I also had them build mine with the late style supported throw out bearing.
Mike
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