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Vanagon ‘floppy mirror syndrome’ CURED!
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BoneStock67
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 12, 2011 8:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Dhaavers,
Please do let us know what GoWesty's super secret floppy mirror fix is.
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1986 Wolfsburg Westfalia Weekender 2.1L stock
1967 Beetle, now becoming my daily driver again, after a long rest in the garage

"There are two possible outcomes: if the result confirms the hypothesis, then you've made a measurement. If the result is contrary to the hypothesis, then you've made a discovery.” -Enrico Fermi
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dhaavers
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 17, 2011 7:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK - here ya go.

GoWesty's super secret floppy mirror fix is...a rubber washer.

Still it's quality German & better than what I replaced, so I got what I needed.

FWIW, the RH mirror is NOT convex like my original, so I'm returning it.
I prefer the wider view from the old mirror, so I'll make it work or deal with it.
Maybe add ANOTHER washer?

It was the LH mirror that was doing most of the flopping, I guess... Rolling Eyes

But NO MORE, thanks to GOWESTY! Wink
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dhaavers
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 7:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

GoWesty "NO-FLOP" mirror UPDATE:

One month in & I'm generally pleased. Much less flop that my OE mirrors, even after my own washer treatment.

Today I FULLY snugged down the springs after I caught them flopping - first time in a month.
(In their defense, it was gusting to 40mph & me at 65 on the highway.)

Still, they're better than what I replaced, & should be better again now.

Anyone else...???
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BoneStock67
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 17, 2011 9:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Dhaavers,
Good timing; I was just about to post my experience with the BusDepot Hagus mirrors.
Bottom line is that they definitely will flop if installed without first torquing the nut, but after torquing, they are both working well without any rubber washers.
I think it's just a question of not being afraid to torque the nut sufficiently.
Someone (maybe me someday) should do an experiment with a torque wrench and a highway, in order to determine just how much torque is needed to keep the mirrors from flopping on the open road.
For me, for now, the appropriate torque was "a little more than what seems appropriate."
And after at least a month with long highway trips and some pretty strong winds, both mirrors are still holding strong.
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1986 Wolfsburg Westfalia Weekender 2.1L stock
1967 Beetle, now becoming my daily driver again, after a long rest in the garage

"There are two possible outcomes: if the result confirms the hypothesis, then you've made a measurement. If the result is contrary to the hypothesis, then you've made a discovery.” -Enrico Fermi
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dhaavers
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2011 4:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

BoneStock67 wrote:
... appropriate torque was "a little more than what seems appropriate."...

Definitely my experience as well, but they seem to tolerate it.
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purplepeopleeater
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2011 5:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did mine with the rubber washer treatment, they wouldn't even stay up on their own.

They do now, even in dalles side gusting winds. Very Happy
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BoneStock67
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 2:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't want to turn this post into a whine but ...

Seemingly moments after I posted here my last positive impressions with the Bus Depot Hagus mirrors, I was driving on the highway (in the rain) and the passenger side mirror started flopping. So I figured, well, I didn't tighten the passenger side mirror as much as the driver's side, so I took it off to tighten it.

First thing I noticed was a lot of water trapped under the base. Can't be good. And the nut was starting to rust. Even worse.

Then I tried tightening the nut, and was very saddened when the stud broke right in half. Worst yet.

So I called Bus Depot and explained what had happened, but because too much time had elapsed since I had purchased the mirrors, they were unwilling to replace the broken one. They did say they would sell me another one at their cost, but I don't know if I want to do that, considering the same thing might happen again.

What to do?
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1986 Wolfsburg Westfalia Weekender 2.1L stock
1967 Beetle, now becoming my daily driver again, after a long rest in the garage

"There are two possible outcomes: if the result confirms the hypothesis, then you've made a measurement. If the result is contrary to the hypothesis, then you've made a discovery.” -Enrico Fermi
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BoneStock67
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 21, 2011 7:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Starting a new thread to discuss new base design.
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1986 Wolfsburg Westfalia Weekender 2.1L stock
1967 Beetle, now becoming my daily driver again, after a long rest in the garage

"There are two possible outcomes: if the result confirms the hypothesis, then you've made a measurement. If the result is contrary to the hypothesis, then you've made a discovery.” -Enrico Fermi
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Tishamingo
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 2:07 pm    Post subject: What a funny thread Reply with quote

but not so funny of a problem, to have floppy mirrors that is. My passenger side mirror has never really functioned well and I figured I'd get with the program and try to fix it. Pulled it off the van, undid the nut removed the washer and took off the spring. Next step is to remove the bracket. I cannot seem to get it off, seems that the Metal is hung up on the bolt. It is soaking in PB right now but I was curious how much force people have to use to get it off.

Like everything with the van, I try to be as gentle as possible and I'd hate to break the bracket and be SOL.
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hop2itinaz
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 25, 2012 12:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just tried the rubber washer fix....and BAM...done deal. No more rusty worm clamps holding it all together. My van looks so pretty now.....Smile

Michael in Pioneer Valley MA
86 Westy w/ Suby 2.2
"Latte" is his name....after all...I am a coffee achiever!
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RaxAdam
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2012 6:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've got FMS on my driver-side mirror, but the mirrors are power. I read the whole thread, but it seems that everyone here is talking about non-power mirrors, am I right?

Is there a thread for fixing power floppy mirror syndrome that I've missed?!

Cheers,


Rax
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Red Beard
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2013 9:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hiram6 wrote:
Did this mod today on my mirrors. I found a rubber washer that fits perfectly with no trimming needed.

Bought mine at Lowes, Hillman brand, size 3/8 x 7/8 x 1/16, as indicated on the package. SKU # 00823670763 Grand total of 75 cents.


Bumpety bump.

I used this exact washer, found at lowes for ~$1 a pair, and now my mirrors are AWESOME, rock solid.

I did have a little trouble getting the big curved washer thing off one side. I ended up soaking it in WD40, then holding the mirror between my legs and tapping around the edge of the dome piece with a flathead screwdriver and a hammer until it finally come off.

20 minutes total work. And I get to keep the convex passenger mirror.
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Red Beard
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 8:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ahwahnee wrote:
RHMoore wrote:
I thought my mirror is original, but my centrail stud pulled out. The JB Weld fix did not work...


One of my original mirrors also had the stud pull out. With some advice from A. Libby I drilled it and stuck a pin thru the housing and stud, now it tightens down fine. The bolt idea is no doubt effective but the pin is an invisible fix.

For stuck parts (like that concave washer) I reach first for the PBlaster.


Alright, I just finished doing this great little mod. I had a lot of trouble getting the domed piece with the hexagonal hole off of the post, and was worried I was going to break it as others have by yanking on it or banging on it too hard. After dealing with the passenger side by the method in the post above, I figured out this little trick:


Instead of yanking on the part that screws onto the door, clamp the lip of it in a soft jawed vice, like this:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Now instead of pulling, you can simply tap on the end of the bolt. I am using the handle of a socket wrench, and tapping with a hammer (out of the frame.)
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Worked like a charm.

I did soak the thing in Wd40 for a few minutes before hand.
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Respiratuer
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 03, 2013 8:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fix works great. I guess I got lucky as I was able to dis-assemble both mirrors without issue. Thanks for the post.
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bluebus86
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 04, 2013 3:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the hex shaft came out of my 1986 mirror, so it got locktited into placed and I peened over the metal around it with a punch. so far so good. i did grease all the bits to prevent rust.

if she slips again, I will drill and pin it.
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oldhuldy67
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 04, 2013 6:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used the rubber washer trick on my NEW GOWESTY mirrors...and problem solved.
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dbeierl
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 6:00 pm    Post subject: Fix them right and they work perfectly. Reply with quote

Ahwahnee wrote:
This seems to have helped mine though (contrary to a post above) the shaft is not 'pinned'. They are marked as originals (Audi/VW logo) and the shaft wants to pull out if the nut is torqued pretty good. I used JBWeld to try to secure that shaft but drilling and using a roll pin may be the way to go.
Speaking only of the originals -- no, the shaft isn't pinned, and it is plenty strong if used as intended, within the very small range of adjustment of the internal coil spring. Once you've had to tighten the nut to the point where the spring is coil-bound the device has already failed because of corrosion on the hex shaft impeding free motion of the hemispherical pressure piece. The solution is not to yank the shaft out of its bed by continuing to turn the nut, but rather to disassemble and clean out the corrosion so that everything works freely. The hemisphere must slide freely on the hex shaft. Then the mirror will work correctly and will be plenty tight within its normal range of adjustment, unlike the aftermarket ones I've seen which are inadequate out of the box.
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dbeierl
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 6:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BoneStock67 wrote:

For me, for now, the appropriate torque was "a little more than what seems appropriate."

The limit on usable adjustment is slightly before the internal spring becomes coil-bound and effectively no longer part of the system. If you have to tighten the nut beyond where it fully compresses the spring, the mirror, new or not, has already failed. The transition between compressing the spring and torquing the nut is very distinct and the range of adjustment is only a couple millimeters or so.

On the originals the spring pressure is plenty - they fail when the internal hex shaft becomes bound to the hemispherical pressure piece by corrosion. That hemisphere must slide freely on the shaft, and if you clean things up and make it so the original mirrors will once again work perfectly.
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Ahwahnee
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 6:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

On my originals the socket portion (the bottom of the stalk of the mirror) developed vertical cracks that caused the socket to be looser on the ball -- too loose for the spring to be able to make it tight on its own.
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dbeierl
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 6:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Red Beard wrote:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Run a nut up onto the stud first to reduce the thread distortion from striking it, and use a large hammer to give more shove and less reshaping of the metal.

Once you've cleaned out the corrosion that's causing the hemisphere to bind, the mirror will work perfectly within its normal range of adjustment, before bottoming out the spring. If the hemisphere doesn't slide freely on the shaft, the mirror won't work correctly.
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