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brass acorn exhaust nuts
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DanHoug
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2019 5:14 pm    Post subject: brass acorn exhaust nuts Reply with quote

doing some headwork and trying these for a while.. brass cap nuts. theory being to keep the studs completely enclosed to prevent end corrosion. packed with 2400F rated anti-sieze. switched to all studs on all ports.

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here's my experience with various exhaust nuts in the rust belt:

grade 12.9 steel - black coated, rust like mad of course but seem better than the copper coated steel in terms of getting them off.

copper coated steel - i'm sorry, everyone says to use these. i've had horrible corrosion issues with these. hate 'em.

stainless steel - have had good service with both nuts and bolts on the exhaust system. must be slathered with high temp anti-sneeze and they'll still bind taking them off but the dimension of the fastener doesn't rust down to nothing. haven't had any breaking issues.

brass - jury is out. bought 3 different types including the 'exhaust nut' which is long but small diameter. after consideration, going with the cap nuts as the material is thick, threads deep, and has the end sealed.

from left to right: copper coated steel, stainless, brass, tall brass, brass cap.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2019 5:20 pm    Post subject: Re: brass exhaust nuts Reply with quote

it really depends on the alloy, not all 'brass' (there are hundreds of alloys of brass) fasteners are the same at all. my guess is that the rate of expansion will loosen this nut faster than another metal with a lower coefficient of expansion. if you use the same metal for both the stud and the nut then youd have a matched COE and they would be less likely to move or react and corrode. keep us posted for the results im curious. also the heat will definitely open the brass up to oxidization ( it will change colors from brown to purple etc which when it cools back down ,creates corrosion)
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DanHoug
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2019 5:28 pm    Post subject: Re: brass exhaust nuts Reply with quote

well, considering i've never had an exhaust nut even THINK of loosening on it's own, most corrode tight within a short period, i'm willing to try it. that is a zinc plated Bellevue spring washer beneath it, BTW. using Jet Lube 550 Extreme for the AS. have had good luck with that.

but yeah, it's an experiment.
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2019 6:45 pm    Post subject: Re: brass exhaust nuts Reply with quote

I use stage 8 racing fasteners in my turbo application..
I do not drive in salt except 1-2 days returning from mid winter travel
they are CHROME MOLY, and will still corrode a little.. unsure on alot, don't drive alot in salted roads but the turbo makes then glow red at times.
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2019 6:51 pm    Post subject: Re: brass exhaust nuts Reply with quote

I've tried all different types and fine the coated Jet Nuts work best. They also have a smaller hex head which gives better access to the socket.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2019 11:28 am    Post subject: Re: brass exhaust nuts Reply with quote

For what it's worth, factory BMW exhaust nuts work really well. They are copper clad, flanged (like a jet nut), and have a distorted head for locking purposes. They are a one-time use part though so you need to replace them each time you remove them.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2019 11:52 am    Post subject: Re: brass exhaust nuts Reply with quote

I use Mercedes copper flanged nuts, which might be the exact same as those BMW versions.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2019 11:54 am    Post subject: Re: brass exhaust nuts Reply with quote

What have vanished completely are the original exhaust nuts.

They were a steel body with a copper? Bronze? Alloy of some sort threads inserted into the nut. Almost like a modern helicoil.

Yes, the nut body rusted but the nuts internal threads did not rust onto the stud.

I haven't seen these in decades.

Dave
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2019 12:00 pm    Post subject: Re: brass exhaust nuts Reply with quote

I'm curious on what this guy is claiming his nuts are..
if in fact a grade 10 steel under the copper coating. may be just the ticket..
are marketed as turbo nuts, so should be designed ot handle the heat..

unless he's selling a pig in a poke and the cat in the bag are just regular pedestrian grade exhaust nuts.

http://turbododgeparts.com/html/copper_exhaust_flange_nuts.html
$12/set of 8
Quote:
TURBO DODGE COPPER EXHAUST FLANGE NUTS
Turbo Dodge Cars w/8 Valve Engines
This is the popular Dodge and Chrysler 2.2 and 2.5 copper coated exhaust manifold nut upgrade. These are the highest quality GRADE 10 exhaust manifold stud nuts that are direct replacements for the factory grade 8 steel nuts. These are actually manufactured for the high performance turbo Porsche automobile but are a perfect standard fit for our turbo Dodge automobiles.

Unlike the standard Porsche grade 8 nuts for the non-turbo car, these are GRADE 10 steel nuts with the legendary Porsche style copper cladding for added serviceability, durability, and strength. These are not the less expensive grade 8 steel nuts.

These 8mm x 1.25 GRADE 10 steel nuts install directly on the factory exhaust manifold studs without any modifications necessary and since they are both self locking and copper clad, they will not loosen nor bond to the steel studs. So you get not only added grade 10 strength, you also get extended reliability and serviceability due to the self locking features and copper clad technology. They are also the standard 10mm hex wrench size so they are installed or removed using the same tooling as the factory nuts.

By replacing the factory grade 8 steel nuts with these GRADE 10 copper coated exhaust manifold flange nuts you get the following advantages:

Increased fastener strength, grade 10 Vs. grade 8
The fastener will not bond/rust to the stud making future removal easier
You will gain 50 HP and 75 ft/lbs of torque (just kidding!)
So, when you purchase a turbododgeparts.com copper coated, GRADE 10, exhaust manifold nut set you will receive all of the following:

( 8 ) 8mmx1.25x10mm hex copper coated GRADE 10 self locking, exhaust flange nuts
1 Year, Unlimited Mileage Replacement Warranty

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Gruppe B
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2019 1:19 pm    Post subject: Re: brass exhaust nuts Reply with quote

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These are made for high temp application and are non-galling like Ace Hardware Grade 2 stainless... Laughing
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2019 3:23 pm    Post subject: Re: brass exhaust nuts Reply with quote

Here's a previous post on the subject. I used ARP stainless studs & BMW OEM copper nuts. The ARP studs are expensive, but considering my last engine had rusted out stripped bolts & nuts, I didn't want my new engine to have the same fate...

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0
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DanHoug
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2019 7:41 pm    Post subject: Re: brass exhaust nuts Reply with quote

those ARP would be great... at $154 a set, it just feels too much pampering for myself. if these brass monkey nuts don't work out, i'll probably try some titanium ones.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2019 8:39 pm    Post subject: Re: brass exhaust nuts Reply with quote

If you to avoid seizing you need to use a nickel based anti-seize. The common aluminium , copper and other are low cost immitators.
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 27, 2019 1:55 pm    Post subject: Re: brass exhaust nuts Reply with quote

replace the nuts with titanium nuts

while you're at it, replace the studs with titanium studs

while you're at it, replace the engine too Idea
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 27, 2019 2:21 pm    Post subject: Re: brass exhaust nuts Reply with quote

This, sound advice..
Merian wrote:
replace the nuts with titanium nuts
while you're at it, replace the studs with titanium studs
while you're at it, replace the engine too Idea


before we changed the motor on mom's 86 to an I5.
I used to change the 'copper clad' exhaust nuts each year and it was still only driven seasonally. that way I knew that if/when I had to replace them they'd come off and when you buy the copper clad nuts by the 100pk they're $.32 ea
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 27, 2019 2:27 pm    Post subject: Re: brass exhaust nuts Reply with quote

W0133-1851348 BMW part number for the m8 copper plated helicoil nut that will not seize up. Even if it does it is still easily removable without damage to the stud. You can make these yourself if necessary.

TITANIUM IS NOTORIOUS FOR SEIZING. The expansion rate is also extremely high. Machining the stuff can be a nightmare!
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 30, 2020 12:59 pm    Post subject: Re: brass exhaust nuts Reply with quote

Hi DanHoug,

I'm checking in to see if you have an update/review of how the Brass Acorn nuts have worked out for your exhaust studs.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 30, 2020 2:40 pm    Post subject: Re: brass exhaust nuts Reply with quote

T3 Pilot wrote:
Hi DanHoug,

I'm checking in to see if you have an update/review of how the Brass Acorn nuts have worked out for your exhaust studs.


they still look gorgeous!! i'd bet anything they'd turn right off because the stud is completely enclosed and all slippery with anti-sieze. i'm really impressed with the lack of corrosion on them, still very brass colored.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 30, 2020 5:03 pm    Post subject: Re: brass exhaust nuts Reply with quote

DanHoug wrote:
well, considering i've never had an exhaust nut even THINK of loosening on it's own, most corrode tight within a short period, i'm willing to try it. that is a zinc plated Bellevue spring washer beneath it, BTW. using Jet Lube 550 Extreme for the AS. have had good luck with that.

but yeah, it's an experiment.


do to the heat, spring lock washers oft dont work well here. Everytime I had used them, I later found that the lost spring, and turned into flat washers with a slit in them
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 30, 2020 5:53 pm    Post subject: Re: brass exhaust nuts Reply with quote

On diesels where there's more room for longer studs, I had installed IBM electrical cabinets studs from the 80's. They had a Torx head to screw them in and we're top quality, my ex father in law had boxes of them from working with them, he did dumpster diving for decades there.

I used the acorn nut method to protect the threads too but with a nut below to do the fastening work Smile
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