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dwill49965
Samba Member
Joined: August 08, 2005
Posts: 1396
Location: Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
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 Posted: Mon Apr 03, 2006 7:02 pm Post subject: Removing inner circlip from rear wheel bearing |
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78 Westy, 2L, FI. Trying to repack rear wheel bearings and am having trouble removing the inner circlip. No, I don't have the correct tool. Tried needle nose pliers, and can compress the spring, but not twist, pull, or pry it out. Any suggestions?
Just to note - another discrepancy in the Bently manual. Fig 10-12 (p.61) says there's two circlips, one at either end of the housing. However, figure 10-10 (p.60) only shows an inner one in the diagram (but lists 2), which is the way it is on my vehicle. I suppose Fig 10-12 could apply to '68-'70, however Fig 10-9 only shows one circlip (inner) although it also says there's 2.
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Darryl
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'78 Westy, Boston Bob built 2.0 L, FI, MSD 6A
| Meyer wrote: |
| Lastly, you just referred to US citizens as 'Americans'. Exactly what kind of Canadian are you? From what continent? |
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sloans265
Samba Member
Joined: October 24, 2004
Posts: 1321
Location: 32207
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| Posted: Mon Apr 03, 2006 7:15 pm Post subject: |
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Snap ring pliers. Any hardware store carries them. Get a good sturdy set.
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1970 Lotus White Panel
In search of any Pensacola Fla dealership items |
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steponmebbbboom
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Joined: May 01, 2004
Posts: 6390
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| Posted: Mon Apr 03, 2006 7:31 pm Post subject: |
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| really, theyre not that much. |
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thevanillaninja
Samba Member
Joined: October 10, 2004
Posts: 704
Location: Scott, IL
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| Posted: Mon Apr 03, 2006 7:32 pm Post subject: |
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| sloans265 wrote: |
| Snap ring pliers. Any hardware store carries them. Get a good sturdy set. |
In fact, any place that carries any sort of tools will have them - especially any auto parts store. For something like this, that unless you come across those often, the cheap set will do fine because for as little as you'll use them, if they ever do break you'll know where to get them and will have spent no more than $8 on a pair. Always nice to have laying around though, what about when you have to do an emergency engine pull and pull off a piston? You'll be wanting the pair of these pliers then, for sure.
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1967 Zenith Blue Type 1 "Elaine"
Bought in 2004
Stored for 4 1/2 years and soon to be resurrected..
'67 beetle |
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dwill49965
Samba Member
Joined: August 08, 2005
Posts: 1396
Location: Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
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| Posted: Mon Apr 03, 2006 7:36 pm Post subject: |
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Okay, okay!! I give up!   Are the three tip interchangeable type ones sturdy enough? Or should I go for the really heavy duty "channel-lok" ones?
http://www.canadiantire.ca/assortments/product_det...earch=true
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Darryl
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'78 Westy, Boston Bob built 2.0 L, FI, MSD 6A
| Meyer wrote: |
| Lastly, you just referred to US citizens as 'Americans'. Exactly what kind of Canadian are you? From what continent? |
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steponmebbbboom
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Joined: May 01, 2004
Posts: 6390
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| Posted: Mon Apr 03, 2006 7:38 pm Post subject: |
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| well hang on now, the bigass straight jaw convertible snapring pliers are not universally available. Most of the standard retail outlets do not have them. Look in the yellow pages under tool and you will find tool vendors that cater to industry and the trades. This is where I always shop for tools. The counter people are skilled and knowledgeable, the b/s gimmick crap multitools are nowhere to be found, and you dont have to walk around for fifteen minutes to find the tool section. Pay up for the quality tools and be done with it once. |
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dwill49965
Samba Member
Joined: August 08, 2005
Posts: 1396
Location: Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
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| Posted: Mon Apr 03, 2006 7:48 pm Post subject: |
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| steponmebbbboom wrote: |
| Look in the yellow pages under tool and you will find tool vendors that cater to industry and the trades. This is where I always shop for tools. |
I usually go to K&D Pratt here in Dartmouth. Its where I got my Loctite 565 for my push rod tubes, and a 15/16 drag link socket. On the other hand, its fun to look around Princess Auto and see all the stuff they have. Its where I got my 46mm socket and 3/4 drive t-bar that I removed the axle nut with (along with an 8 ft long cast iron pipe for a cheater bar). They do have some unusual and surplus stuff.
I'll go with quality.
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Darryl
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'78 Westy, Boston Bob built 2.0 L, FI, MSD 6A
| Meyer wrote: |
| Lastly, you just referred to US citizens as 'Americans'. Exactly what kind of Canadian are you? From what continent? |
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steponmebbbboom
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Joined: May 01, 2004
Posts: 6390
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| Posted: Mon Apr 03, 2006 8:09 pm Post subject: |
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| Good choice, Princess Auto is a three ring circus. when I do go there I am embarrassed as hell to be in there. Their tools are false economy. K&D sound like the ticket, you should also have an Acklands Grainger, Greenlee and Brafasco among others to shop at, you think Princess Auto is fun try shopping in one of those and see all the specialty industry tools not available at the retail level and let the ideas fly. |
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Blaubus
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Joined: October 25, 2003
Posts: 5153
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| Posted: Tue Apr 04, 2006 5:52 am Post subject: |
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| i find that needle nose pliers work good as long as i grind the tip a little- CAREFULLY... works better than junky snapring pliers. if you do get the real thing, avoid the type with the stamped steel/riveted pivot design. you want ones with arms that are forged, not stamped to avoid twisting. I have recently taken a liking to Mac/Proto- same company. their lockring/tranny pliers were made better than snap-on's, and at half the price. |
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germansupplyscott
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Joined: May 22, 2004
Posts: 7093
Location: toronto
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| Posted: Tue Apr 04, 2006 6:00 am Post subject: |
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| dansvans wrote: |
| i find that needle nose pliers work good as long as i grind the tip a little- CAREFULLY... |
good call. get a pair of very large needle nose pliers, like 10" or so, crappy tire for about 8 bucks, then grind the tip. you want the tip to be conical in shape, a slight bit larger at the very tip, so there is an undercut that the ring will hang up on.
also, as for the bentley errata, there is one circlip on 71-on, two earlier. once the rear hub was compound (not part of the drum) the 2nd circlip was redundant and left out.
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Blaubus
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Joined: October 25, 2003
Posts: 5153
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| Posted: Tue Apr 04, 2006 8:54 am Post subject: |
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| when i grind my plier tips i leave some of the teeth intact. and yes the larger the pliers the better. i have nothing against the real tool, but only if its made well... |
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dwill49965
Samba Member
Joined: August 08, 2005
Posts: 1396
Location: Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
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| Posted: Tue Apr 04, 2006 6:55 pm Post subject: |
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| dansvans wrote: |
| i find that needle nose pliers work good as long as i grind the tip a little- CAREFULLY... works better than junky snapring pliers. |
And the winner is: NOT the one on the right. Bought the snap ring pliers on the right - not the cheapest or the most expensive, but they didn't work after several attempts. I took my 8" needle nose pliers, spent about 30 seconds filing a little notch on each tip about 2 or 3 mm from the end, and they worked perfectly the first time!
Getting the ball bearing and spacer out went fine, so I just want to make sure that the roller bearing in the picture is the one that gets destroyed if you try to remove it.
_________________
Darryl
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'78 Westy, Boston Bob built 2.0 L, FI, MSD 6A
| Meyer wrote: |
| Lastly, you just referred to US citizens as 'Americans'. Exactly what kind of Canadian are you? From what continent? |
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steponmebbbboom
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Joined: May 01, 2004
Posts: 6390
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| Posted: Tue Apr 04, 2006 7:17 pm Post subject: |
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Glad to hear you got it out.
Snapring pliers come in many different sizes, and tip angles, these are the design I have had the most success with. Guessing by your picture I would say the bits were too small to grip the snapring holes. For a snapring that large you want to get the biggest size you can, the ones I use for that snapring are about 10-12" overall length and fit tightly in the holes. |
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