15 year hibernation. Need attack plan. Help (73 super Vert)

[matthew henricks]

I picked up a 73 super convertible with what looks to be a totally stock motor. (Overall complete stock car with no rust and a new top for a song...) It has alot of stuff on it that my 60's VW don't have.

It has been sitting for 15 years and I’m told drove great when parked by the PO. I need help developing an attack plan to bring the motor back to life. (Well, the whole car as well but the motor is my main concern) I am a early bus/bug guy so i am new to SB. Any advice? Right now my plan is:

Total brakes overhaul. (replacing everything but the steel brake lines)
Fuel overhaul (fuel line & pump replacement and check the tank condition.
Fluid overhaul (R&R all fluids)
Suspension check. (lower ball joints i think)
CV check. (i'm sure i will find a topic on that)
Lube everything. (vert top, doors, hood, etc.)
Get the Engine to fire. This is where i need help. So many gadgets on it where do i start....

Thanks in advance. I will also search the archives for more details on specific areas but anyone have a good overall attack plan?

[TaoDude]

well make sure not a bit of old gas goes in to the engine as that stuff is horrible for it(make sure to dump any gas still in the carb float) get a battery that works replace the fuel in the float and in the tank. If you smell gas check for leaks in the tank. I would replace the fuel filter too of course and with a good battery give it a start and it should start. If not then check the spark plugs(might be really dirty). Oh it may be a good idea to see if there is still a muffler(they rust pretty bad). If it still doesnt work I am sure you will figure it out!
_________________
'70 Westy - "Artemisia"
www.geocities.com/dreammotorcar2
Working on fixing up the interior
'72 Convertible - Restoring
www.geocities.com/dreammotorcar
Currently in pieces in my garage

[webwalker]

It looks like you've covered the essentials.

Is this 73 a california model?

There should be only a few extra gadgets on your engine: a dashpot with and adjuster on the left side of the engine compartment, as well as the solinoid operated idle-cutoff. Those should be the only big changes for the carb system.

Your best friend is going to be the Orange Bentley book for late model Beetles. Consider working all of the other stuff while that book is on order and only tackle the engine once you've reviewed the Bentley book.

RMW
_________________
"Consistent maintenance with quality products is the cheapest warranty you'll ever need."
1977 CE1 Transporter Deluxe, Subaru EJ22, Skills Cooling, Steedle HD 091 w/ GuardT .82 4th
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[matthew henricks]

webwalker,

I believe it is a CA model but not sure how to tell. It has some sort of gadget mounted to the left of the engine (looking at the engine) on the firewall and some extra stuff on the carb. It also has a HUGE air cleaner and some extra hoses darting around. (I am used to 40HP motors with tiny carbs and no gadgets. KISS principle)

I figure the basic motor is no big deal. It is all the other stuff with the ignitions and carb that i want to learn about before i dive in. I plan to replace all of the ignition parts and clean the carb/fuel system.

[TaoDude]

Is it an auto stick? I havent looked at a California Model up close but I think they have different engine codes so check the first letters of the engine code. The gigantic filter might be the paper type filter on instead of the old oil-bath like on '72s
_________________
'70 Westy - "Artemisia"
www.geocities.com/dreammotorcar2
Working on fixing up the interior
'72 Convertible - Restoring
www.geocities.com/dreammotorcar
Currently in pieces in my garage

[VW_Buggsy]

Your plan of attack sounds great. For the motor, I'd add:

Change the oil (let it drain overnight). Replace the condensor and points, and set the gap correctly. Do a valve job.

Spray some PB Blaster or Aero Kroil into the spark plug holes in the engine while you have the plugs out for a check and re-gap. The oil will be good for startup and in case there is a little rust in the cylinders. Let it set in there overnight at least.

Not sure if your fuel overhaul would normally include a tank flush. You may have allot of varnish and or sludge in your gas tank and carb float bowl from where the old gas dried off. It may be a good idea to take out the tank and do at least a quick cleaning (solvent and a chain in the tank, shake, drain, dry, and re-instal. There in instruction on this site if you use the search). That will keep whatever gunk is in there from flowing through your lines and clogging up your new fuel filter and the cleaned up carb in a few hundred miles.

When you first go to start it, take the coil wire off and crank it until you have oil pressure. Then re-connect the coil and fire it up.

Sorry If I've restated something you already said or said somethign really obvious.

[matthew henricks]

VW_buggsy,

Thank you for the tips. Since there was a huge oil slick under the car i bet it is pretty dry in there. I plan to pull the screen, let it sit and put new oil in. Hand crank it over to make sure the cylinders are not seized and then follow along what you seggested. I did not want to pull the tank but it sounds like it may be best to make sure all is OK in there.

Taodude. It is not an auto-stick. Regular 4 speed. I will check out the engine code to see what it says.