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Just tried the HF HVLP sprayer.. UPDATED
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DurocShark
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PostPosted: Sun May 28, 2006 3:49 pm    Post subject: Just tried the HF HVLP sprayer.. UPDATED Reply with quote

Ok, it's been like 20 years since I painted with anything other than a rattle can or a roller. Last year I picked up one of these from Harbor Freight:

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Today I finally got to try it. I used it with Rustoleum primer on some rusty sanded metal. Figured this is where to use it to get used to using a gun.

I'm really happy with it! The spray was consistent and easily controlled. Way better than rattle can IMHO. I was able to lay it thin or thick, however I wanted. I thinned the Rustoleum 4:1 with acetone and that seemed to work well. Little orange peel. The paint flowed nice, but to be honest the pieces are laying flat on the ground. Heh.

Anyway, just thought I'd share. Smile

---------------------------

UPDATE:

I painted the sliding door covers on the Guac with this and that same Rustoleum. I'm happy with this gun.

I haven't done any wetsanding or anything yet. They've been on the bus for 4 days now, after drying in the garage for 2 days.

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and

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(Forgive the GIFs instead of JPGs. I didn't pay attention to what photoshop was saving... sigh.)
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Last edited by DurocShark on Fri Jun 16, 2006 3:18 pm; edited 2 times in total
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spook
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PostPosted: Sun May 28, 2006 3:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't paint a car with that
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DurocShark
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PostPosted: Sun May 28, 2006 4:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

spook wrote:
Don't paint a car with that


Why? Hell, there's folks talking about painting cars with friggin rollers.
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PostPosted: Sun May 28, 2006 5:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

we don't talk with them,
if you are going to do somthing do it right
and that ain't right
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DurocShark
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PostPosted: Sun May 28, 2006 5:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry to get contrary, but you still haven't said why.

Moisture isn't an issue because the air isn't compressed.
The tips appear to be standard (I'll check next week), so I can get a better quality tip if this one turns out to be junk. It's ok so far though. (I need to figure out the size too. The brass nozzle isn't marked.)
How big of a compressor would I need to use a "normal" HVLP gun? A lot bigger than I can afford or even find a place for in my one car garage.

The only issue I see is that the air pump has a crappy filter. I'm looking to see what I can do to improve it.

I really want to know what part of this isn't up to snuff. No, it's not a professional rig. So what? If it lays the paint down well, who cares?
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PostPosted: Sun May 28, 2006 5:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the flow of those guns are not correct for
auto paint, they were designed for sealers,
and oils. If you are using auto paint, pressures and paint
mat change as well as the tip size , depending on the product,
you will have to increase the reducer, and when you do that
it extends the flash time . and f 's with the outgassing
that the paint has to do to dry, you will end up
with a paint job that is 'dry' but still very soft,
most auto paints that are not baked require
6 months before they are cured, ( thats why
you don't wax a car for 6 month after a paint job,
the waxs stops the out gassing even the baked jobs still out gass
for up to 3 months )
It will be a night mare when you goto color sand, and you will
need to color sand.
Home Dopet has a hvlp gun that is not that expence, and is a decent
gun, I bought it for a primer gun, and it had a 04 tip,
so I used it for the base, did well, It has enough asjustments
to make the job fairly easy.
As far as a compresser, a small pancake or twin tank 110
will work fine, you will have to wait for the compreser to
catch up, but it will work.
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DurocShark
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PostPosted: Sun May 28, 2006 6:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks!

Can you tell me what you mean by "pressures and paint mat"? HVLP by design is supposed to work on air volume, not pressure, right? (HVLP wasn't even thought of when I took my class in high school.)

I'm looking at these pieces I painted right now, and if this is typical of this gun, I won't be needing to do any color sanding for a good gloss. No, it isn't mirrored, but it's nice.

Thanks again!
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itlives
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PostPosted: Sun May 28, 2006 6:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can get a good job out of a better gun. My HVLP is similar but cost $860 I get a great paint job with it.
My new gun was $210
Your unit has to have enough air output to do a car with car paint.
Google HVLPsprayers and you can find alot of info ( mine is a Grayco)
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spook
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PostPosted: Sun May 28, 2006 7:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the amount of paint that is put out and layed down
is a fuction of pressure, on an hvlp gun the volume of the air
is higher at a 'set' pressure.
some clears req 45 lbs of pressure in a hvlp gun
while some of the poly bases require 16 lbs,
the 'volume' screw does not actualy change the
volume of paint directly.
the nice things about the guns, is they have a 70%
transfer rate,
even a harbor freight gun will do a better job
than a pressure pot hvlp
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vwsplitman
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PostPosted: Wed May 31, 2006 5:55 pm    Post subject: HVLP Reply with quote

Go to hvlp.com. Ive used the Apollo sprayers for about 10 years now. According to them they were the first to develop HVLP turbine units. No compressor needed, plug in anywhere, very portable, no water condensation, no oil contamination, no water traps etc etc. Chuck P
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 02, 2006 7:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you're on a budget, consider the Sharpe Cobalt... I bought one used for $50... early ones were built in Europe.

Used quality guns may be better than cheap new ones.

T.
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 02, 2006 12:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I painted this in my shop/ no booth/ $75 harbor freight gun/30 gallon compressor. the cheap hvlp's work plenty good for a beginner if you keep them clean. high dollar guns are nice (I miss my SATA) but I think its better to learn on a cheap one then if you get ahold of a nice one it will be easier. --

sorry its a ford but 110v 30 gal comp & harbor freight HVLP.
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itlives
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 03, 2006 5:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stupid Ford- I've been driving a Ford for the last 14 years (same one). Can't wait to get the bug going. Nice flame job!
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 06, 2006 4:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've used a Campbell Hausfeld HVLP turbine sprayer to paint several cars. I've been painting cars for over 25 years. These turbine sprayers work better than okay, they work GREAT.

I've even sprayed silver and very light blue metallic with very fine flake and they work just as well (in some ways better) than a large compressor/HVLP gun setup. Don't ask an autobody shop guy if it will work though, because they see it as a threat to thier business and don't want to see you do the job yourself.


Spook, your comment about automotive paint taking 6 months to cure is a carry-over from the old enamel paint days. Today's catalyzed urethane paints are ready to wetsand and polish WITHIN SIX HOURS OF SPRAYING (with the production catalyst). Today's autobody shops use urethane paint exclusively for this purpose. It lets them get many more cars out the door than they ever could with enamel paint.
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 06, 2006 4:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Evil Box wrote:

Spook, your comment about automotive paint taking 6 months to cure is a carry-over from the old enamel paint days. Today's catalyzed urethane paints are ready to wetsand and polish WITHIN SIX HOURS OF SPRAYING (with the production catalyst). Today's autobody shops use urethane paint exclusively for this purpose. It lets them get many more cars out the door than they ever could with enamel paint.

only after baking, or did yoda leed me wrong
if that is the case then cool,
I can wax right away???????
I'm leary
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 06, 2006 8:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try a Sharpe Plantinum LV. They only require 7.5CFM of air at 50psi. I painted my Ghia with one using my 33gal Sears air compressor. I got some orange peel but probably because I never painted a car before. I was able to use finishing film on it to get a totally flat pain job though. It looks better than any paint job you see on a production car thats for sure.
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 08, 2006 9:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i just got done painting my bus with the wagner hvlp power sprayer from home depot and it is really good for what it is and if you are patient you can do a great job with it i think. i looked at that gun at harbor freight and wondered how good it works.. i would say give it a shot and see what happens it could turn out perfect for you paint is just like welding if you mess it up just sand it down and do it again.
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Evil Box
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2006 9:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Uh... the Wagner machine is an AIRLESS SPRAYER isn't it?

Automotive paints (especially metallics) require ATOMIZATION. This requires a certain amount of air to achieve. I wouldn't think that an airless sprayer could do this kind of a job. You may be able to achieve something somewhat okay with a solid non-metallic color but there's no way it'll do metallics.

Try Campbell Hausfeld, they have a pretty inexpensive HVLP sprayer that works pretty well. The Harbor Freight unit above looks pretty similar to it and probably would do the job too.

P.S.) Of course there's more to painting a car than just having the equipment necessary to do it... Cool
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 10, 2006 5:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Evil Box wrote:

P.S.) Of course there's more to painting a car than just having the equipment necessary to do it... Cool


That's exactly it too. My only worry from the above discussion was the time the paint will take to fully harden using my cheap HVLP.

I've had rattle can stuff take several days before it would resist my fingernail. The thinned Rustoleum enamel I used with my HVLP was the same way. About 4 days to harden enough not to let my fingernail scratch it.
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 10, 2006 6:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i realize that auto metallic paint is different. i used the rusto enamel and it worked good i was just sharing. I dont understand why this is such a touchy subject i thought part of this was about doing it yourself however you could with good results some of us dont have unlimited money for a pro to do us a $2000 paint job. as for the wagner i wouldnt say its airless it sprays lots of air and seems to work much like my air paint guns. you press the trigger most of the way down and it sprays air and you press the last little bit and the paint starts to come out and you can adjust that to how thick or thin you want to spray it so it really works pretty good.. any way i was just happy for what it cost me to do in the back yard. and was sharing.
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