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carburator synchronizer question
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batoni
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PostPosted: Sun May 28, 2006 5:03 pm    Post subject: carburator synchronizer question Reply with quote

Hi folks,this is my first time here.I am in Europe,and have a stock SOLEX dual carburators on my 68' Notch.I ordered a while ago carburator synchronizer from MID AMERICA MOTORWORKS the model looks pretty cheap(29.99) and it can be seen on http://www.800luvbugg.com/shop?frame=6.30.4987

Now,my question is how to use this tool?Anybody can help with step-by-step.And most important:Do I put this synchronizer directly over the top of carbureto,or I need any additional adaptor.If so,then how can make the adaptor,and what are the dimensions/materials needed.There was no use manual inside this product.Please help.
Thanks in advance
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Air_Cooled_Nut
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PostPosted: Sun May 28, 2006 5:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have both and prefer the more expensive unit. Since I have Dellortos I don't know if you'll need an adaptor but I seriously doubt it. Yes, you put the device on the carb throat so air will pass through it. I'll let those who like fiddling with carbs explain how to use them.
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Russ Wolfe
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PostPosted: Sun May 28, 2006 5:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You need an adapter to get above the stock aircleaner mounts. I use a piece of 1 1/2" PVC pipe, but have use in the past a frozen juice can with both ends cut out.
Rummage around, and you will find something.
I have been using the same as you bought for the last 40 years. Even before I started driving VW's. What you have will work on SU side drafts too.
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6T5 square
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PostPosted: Sun May 28, 2006 6:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok Toby, I'll jump in from the shadows.
Russ suggested a pvc pipe (works well) the orange juice can gets soft after 2 or 3 uses. I've been using the same small tomato paste can for the past three years and it holds up great. You sit the can on top of the carb and then sit the sync tool on top. Be sure to get a tight seal by pressing down on the sync tool so you can get a correct reading.

I've been using these instructions for years. They are pretty well self explanatory and what ever your not sure of can be answered in the Muir Idiot manual or the Bently. Not sure who's site it is but it's good.

http://type3nora.tripod.com/pdsit/index.html

Good luck with it
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Russ Wolfe
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PostPosted: Sun May 28, 2006 6:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have been trying to snag one of those manuals for a couple years. Never seem to be there when the go up for sale.
I have parts of the factory fuel manual up on my site.
http://classicvw.org/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.ShowItem&g2_itemId=3418
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COFBack
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PostPosted: Mon May 29, 2006 7:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

batoni

In short

Adjust valves on cold engine
Clean/New Sparkplugs
Get engine running and ignition timing set

Lean idle drop

Warmed Engine at low idle
Adjust IDLE MIXTURE SCREW IN until idle drops
Back out IDLE MIXTURE SCREW 1/4 -1/2 turn
Adjust IDLE MIXTURE SCREW IN (other side) until IDLE drops
Back out IDLE MIXTURE Screw 1/4-1/2 turn

Synchro

Test first side, note flow
Test second side, note flow
Adjust HIGH SIDE DOWN TO LOW SIDE using IDLE SPEED SCREW

Redo lean idle drop
Redo Synchro
Drive
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Mon May 29, 2006 9:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been using the one on the left for over 15 years. I use an old #1 main bearing with the oil groove taped shut (a couple of passes around it should do) for a spacer. It works great. Cool
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Russ Wolfe
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PostPosted: Mon May 29, 2006 11:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bobnotch wrote:
I've been using the one on the left for over 15 years. I use an old #1 main bearing with the oil groove taped shut (a couple of passes around it should do) for a spacer. It works great. Cool

So you need something about 55mm?? I never thought about useing one of those. Have to keep that in mind when I cant find my piece of PVC.
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batoni
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PostPosted: Mon May 29, 2006 4:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK folks,I really thank you all for the suggestions.I assumed I have to use some kind of adapter.I tried with regular Coke can,but it was to soft and did not work really well.I will try some of Your suggestions.
Another question is,how tall should be the adaptor and which side is adjusting first?The drivers side carburator or passenger side?And I noticed that little red ball inside the glass tube on the drivers side is all the way down,while the other carburato gives the red ball to the top.Do I use the black plastic screw(is that for speed or for mixture of the air) or other screws on carburator to bring the ball in the glass tube up-down?
Please help with this,I feel really dumb,becouse my English is not so well,and I am trying to use Your help as much as possible.Unfortunatelly,here in Eastern Europe,most of those old good vw aircooled mechanics are either not working any more,or they are dead Laughing ,so this younger guys are not to enthusiastic to this job right way.What is LEAN IDLE DROP mean?And please dont lough this is my fathers first car,he bought it in 1968 and I restored it in 1998,and it is in the garage since then.I grew up in it and want to keep it for my dougther who is 6 years old now to give to her for 18th birthday,the Notch will be 50 years old then.
Thanks one more time for all the suggestions.
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6T5 square
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PostPosted: Mon May 29, 2006 5:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Batoni, Relax we're here to help.

That link I gave you will tell you the order, which side and when. The adapter has to be tall enough to sit on the carb and just be above the center mounting screw for the air bath (about 8.5 cm). If you can print it out (it's about 8 pages) but I have it in front of me everytime.

Hey COF- You don't do a high idle adjustment? Most manuals including bentley tell you to set a high idle adjustment but I don't. Lazy I guess Wink
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Mon May 29, 2006 7:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Russ Wolfe wrote:
Bobnotch wrote:
I've been using the one on the left for over 15 years. I use an old #1 main bearing with the oil groove taped shut (a couple of passes around it should do) for a spacer. It works great. Cool

So you need something about 55mm?? I never thought about useing one of those. Have to keep that in mind when I cant find my piece of PVC.

I figured you'd have a couple of those laying around. Shocked Wink It's the perfect height for fitting around the deck floor, and clearing the stud for the oil bath air cleaner. Very Happy I even use the tool to check my Webers, but I don't need the spacer for them.

If I remember right, the left carb is the primary carb, that all adjustments are to match. If the ball is at the bottom, you'll need to raise the idle speed (NOT the plastic one, as that's the mixture screw) up to get it in the center. Remove the right center rod (it's the other long one that's adjustable), so it doesn't change the setting of the left carb. Once you've got the ball in the middle (that's your target), and the idle mixture screw set on the left carb, then you can reset the right one. After all the adjusting has taken place, then put the right center rod back on. Note, it should just slip on without changing the idle speed. If it does, then you need to either lengthen or shorten that rod. I realise I've got a step or 2 out of place, but you'll get the gist of it. I hope this helps.
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COFBack
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PostPosted: Tue May 30, 2006 8:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

batoni

one of the screws is connected to the throttle plate this is the IDLE SPEED
one of the screws is is connected to a tapered needle this the MIXTURE

Lean Idle Drop. As you adjust the MIXTURE screw IN the engine idle should INCREASE (assuming you have started from a RICH condition) it should reach a maximum at the correct idle mixture. When you adjust the mixture screw IN from that point you will notice the idle speed drop a bit. This is Lean Idle Drop. It means the mixture is too lean for the car to maintain idle. From that lean idle drop position adjust the MIXTURE screw OUT about 1/2 turn from there.
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exoo
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PostPosted: Thu May 04, 2017 9:37 am    Post subject: Re: carburator synchronizer question Reply with quote

Hello Folks,

I have struggle to get met notchback engine running smoothly. I've overhauled each carbs by my self, they where clogged due to long time stand still. No big jobs were done only replaced seals and cleaned. After mounting back the engine is starting.
Whit dwell meter i set RPM to 800- 850. After synchronizing each carb with Snail synchro, the engine is running oke, but shacking like not all cilinders are even working. When iam turning the idle mix screw on the carb of my left hand i can hear and see difference in RMP, but if i do the same with the mixthure screw on my right hand nothing is happening. How is this possible? Should i dissconnect central idle line between the carburettor? or something else is not correct? I just followed the steps given in this topic, same as on paper deliverd by overhaul set.
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W1K1
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PostPosted: Thu May 04, 2017 9:42 am    Post subject: Re: carburator synchronizer question Reply with quote

no reaction from the mixture screw is usually a clogged idle jet. does it smooth out if you increase the RPM to 1500-2000?
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PostPosted: Thu May 04, 2017 9:54 am    Post subject: Re: carburator synchronizer question Reply with quote

Disconnect your linkage & re-adjust carbs and linkage?
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exoo
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PostPosted: Thu May 04, 2017 10:04 am    Post subject: Re: carburator synchronizer question Reply with quote

First, thank you for the fast reply!
In higher rpm engine is indeed running smooth, only in low rpm it is shacking abit.
Is that an option to disconnect the central idle mixture line and adjust each carb that way ?
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PostPosted: Thu May 04, 2017 1:04 pm    Post subject: Re: carburator synchronizer question Reply with quote

Print this out:

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/t3dualcarbtuning/index.php

and take it to the car with you. Follow the instructions to the letter.

The only change I make to those instructions is I like the car to idle at about 850-900 rpm so that's where I set it.
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Matthew Tolbert
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PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2017 1:44 pm    Post subject: Re: carburator synchronizer question Reply with quote

No response from the mixture screw could also mean a vacuum leak. More than likely from worn throttle shaft bushings.
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PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2017 4:48 pm    Post subject: Re: carburator synchronizer question Reply with quote

One thing that I do on dual carbs with a balance tube, is to disconnect the balance tube when I am syncing, and adjusting. This way, the other carb does not have any influence with the one that I am adjusting. Been doing it this way for many years and for me it helps to isolate if there is a potential problem like an air leak.
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PostPosted: Fri May 12, 2017 12:56 pm    Post subject: Re: carburator synchronizer question Reply with quote

Multi69s wrote:
One thing that I do on dual carbs with a balance tube, is to disconnect the balance tube when I am syncing, and adjusting. This way, the other carb does not have any influence with the one that I am adjusting. Been doing it this way for many years and for me it hbelps to isolate if there is a potential problem like an air leak.


This is how I do it as well learned it from a old timer
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