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targetinspect Samba Member
Joined: January 10, 2011 Posts: 91
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Posted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 12:25 pm Post subject: |
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Heres my 56 pan with a type 2 nose cone hockey stick combo, Fits like a glove... AZ transaxle built mine, $900 bucks...
Last edited by targetinspect on Thu Feb 23, 2012 7:20 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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SixVolt Samba Member
Joined: January 04, 2004 Posts: 1136 Location: Cleveland, Ohio
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Posted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 1:42 pm Post subject: |
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Looks great. I'm just wondering if there is a difference between a 211-301-205"E" nosecone and a 201-301-205"H" nosecone. Hopefully "H" is just a later version of "H" and they're the same thing and either will work for this application. Unless someone can definitively answer this question, I guess I'm going to find out! |
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splitjunkie Samba Member
Joined: April 04, 2006 Posts: 4094
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Posted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 5:01 pm Post subject: |
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That is the currently available bus nosecone. The main difference is that it has a threaded hole for a backup light switch. You will need the copper gasket and either the plug or a backup light switch. The switch is actually cheaper than the plug.
You will also need the bus rubber mount.
Wolfsburg West sells them as well as other places.
http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=211301205H
Here are all of the part numbers other than the backup light switch related parts.
splitjunkie wrote: |
there is a way to correct it.
You will need to get the parts that Bill stated:
"transporter shifter housing(nose cone)211-301-205H shift fork(hockey stick) 113-311-541 and front trans mount 211-301-265A the hockey stick needs indent for coupler set screw drilled 180 degrees from where it is since the original one will be on bottom for bus and beetle needs to be on top. you also have to pound clearance for nose cone to body clearance"
you will need to pull the engine and trans and remove the nose cone, hockey stick and mount and replace with the parts above.
Pick up a transmission gasket set while you are at it because you will need it to install the new nose cone.
Chris |
_________________ Chris
You know, a lot of these scratches will buff right out... Jerry Seinfeld |
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SixVolt Samba Member
Joined: January 04, 2004 Posts: 1136 Location: Cleveland, Ohio
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Posted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 6:10 pm Post subject: |
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splitjunkie wrote: |
That is the currently available bus nosecone. The main difference is that it has a threaded hole for a backup light switch. You will need the copper gasket and either the plug or a backup light switch. The switch is actually cheaper than the plug.
You will also need the bus rubber mount.
Wolfsburg West sells them as well as other places.
http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=211301205H
Here are all of the part numbers other than the backup light switch related parts.
splitjunkie wrote: |
there is a way to correct it.
You will need to get the parts that Bill stated:
"transporter shifter housing(nose cone)211-301-205H shift fork(hockey stick) 113-311-541 and front trans mount 211-301-265A the hockey stick needs indent for coupler set screw drilled 180 degrees from where it is since the original one will be on bottom for bus and beetle needs to be on top. you also have to pound clearance for nose cone to body clearance"
you will need to pull the engine and trans and remove the nose cone, hockey stick and mount and replace with the parts above.
Pick up a transmission gasket set while you are at it because you will need it to install the new nose cone.
Chris |
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Yes, thank you for all that info.I got all the parts you mentioned. I was waiting for a local guy to sell me a stock split case, but he's got too much going on in his life right now so I went back to the '61 model year tranny I had.
It was just that I'm using the 211 301 205"E" nosecone, rather than the "H" nosecone. I searched and searched, but couldn't find a distinction. I searched one of the British sites and they had a thread saying the "E" and the "H" were essentially the same with the "H" being a later version, but still the same unit. I guess I'll find out.
Got it all put together today with new boots. When I get some time I'll get the bus mount in and get this baby in.
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spooky Samba Member
Joined: January 05, 2006 Posts: 203 Location: Bristol, UK
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Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 3:08 am Post subject: |
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How did you get on? |
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SixVolt Samba Member
Joined: January 04, 2004 Posts: 1136 Location: Cleveland, Ohio
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Callook59 Samba Member
Joined: August 27, 2006 Posts: 181 Location: Mountain Home, AR 72653
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Posted: Sun Aug 05, 2012 1:28 pm Post subject: |
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Which nose cone to pan seal are you guys using? The 61+ seal or the 60 and earlier seal? _________________ -Shaggy
56 Oval Window 2175 turbo
56 Euro Karmann Ghia
62 Double Cab
70 Bug convertible (my first car) |
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SixVolt Samba Member
Joined: January 04, 2004 Posts: 1136 Location: Cleveland, Ohio
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txoval Samba Member
Joined: January 23, 2004 Posts: 3552 Location: The Woodlands, TX
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Posted: Fri Feb 22, 2013 8:43 pm Post subject: |
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Where do you buy the solid mount adapter? |
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SixVolt Samba Member
Joined: January 04, 2004 Posts: 1136 Location: Cleveland, Ohio
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Posted: Sat Feb 23, 2013 5:19 am Post subject: |
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txoval wrote: |
Where do you buy the solid mount adapter? |
If this Q is for me I don't have a solid mount adapter. At least I don't think I do. Maybe the Q is for someone else. Everything I bought as from Wolfsburg West. So if you see something in the pics it's from them. I removed a "hack" job that had two pieces of metal used as spacers beteen the old nosecone and the mounting point on the pan. Again, you can see some of my work on the LEAKOIL site. http://www.leakoil.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=2046&start=30 |
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JeffL Samba Member
Joined: September 04, 2004 Posts: 1370
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Posted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 4:48 pm Post subject: |
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splitjunkie wrote: |
there is a way to correct it.
You will need to get the parts that Bill stated:
"transporter shifter housing(nose cone)211-301-205H shift fork(hockey stick) 113-311-541 and front trans mount 211-301-265A the hockey stick needs indnt for coupler set screw drilled 180 degrees from where it is since the original one will be on bottom for bus and beetle needs to be on top. you also have to pound clearence for nose cone to body clerance"
you will need to pull the engine and trans and remove the nose cone, hockey stick and mount and replace with the parts above.
Pick up a transmission gasket set while you are at it because you will need it to install the new nose cone.
the other option is to buy the later model mount plate and later model mount and weld it in.
http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=111701173c
With this you will not need to change the nosecone and hockey stick but you will need to weld in the new mount plate. You need to be very careful to align everything so everything will line up. I did this in a '60 bug and it worked well but if you are not good with a welder go with the bus parts as no welding is required.
Chris |
I want to use the weld in adapter.
Are there measurements on how to loacate it. I'd like to avoid bolting everything to it, sliding the trans in, and the tac welding it before a full weld but maybe that is the only way to do it. _________________ http://karmannghias.org/
https://karmannghias.org/GAlken/index.html |
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davetaylor Samba Member
Joined: May 24, 2006 Posts: 218 Location: Hawesville, KY
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Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2014 8:48 am Post subject: |
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Not to awaken a dead topic, but does anyone know if I can use the '68 type 3 rear end I got for my bus in my '54 Bug instead? It seems like I'd get the upgrade of wider drums and a newer trans, but a lot of the parts descriptions of nose cones say they're used to fit 61-67 transmissions into non-syncro cars.
Why not a '68 type 3? _________________ 1954 3-fold ragtop Beetle project
1969 Porsche 912 (sold)
1979 Beetle triple white German Look convertible
1980 Porsche 911 SC Targa (sold) |
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Bruce Samba Member
Joined: May 16, 2003 Posts: 17290 Location: Left coast, Canada
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Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2014 1:26 pm Post subject: |
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davetaylor wrote: |
, but a lot of the parts descriptions of nose cones say they're used to fit 61-67 transmissions into non-syncro cars.
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Either it was poorly described, or you aren't understanding.
The 60-67 Bus nose cone and hockey stick is needed to fit any 1961 to 2003 Type 1 or Type 3 gearbox into an oval. _________________
overheard at the portland Swap Meet... wrote: |
..... a steering wheel made from a mastadon tusk..... |
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davetaylor Samba Member
Joined: May 24, 2006 Posts: 218 Location: Hawesville, KY
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Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2014 2:18 pm Post subject: |
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Sounds good to me. I was referring partly to the WW description in the link within this thread:
"GEARSHIFT HOUSING, nose cone, use this to fit a 1961-1967 full syncromesh transmission into a 1960 and earlier Bug. 113 311 541 hockey stick is also required"
I guess not every single possibility can be mentioned in descriptions but I'm glad to hear I can use my t3 stuff. _________________ 1954 3-fold ragtop Beetle project
1969 Porsche 912 (sold)
1979 Beetle triple white German Look convertible
1980 Porsche 911 SC Targa (sold) |
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davetaylor Samba Member
Joined: May 24, 2006 Posts: 218 Location: Hawesville, KY
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Posted: Sat Jul 05, 2014 4:25 pm Post subject: |
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To assuage any lingering worries, I have the '63-65 t3 drums to go on the rear so it won't still be 4x130. _________________ 1954 3-fold ragtop Beetle project
1969 Porsche 912 (sold)
1979 Beetle triple white German Look convertible
1980 Porsche 911 SC Targa (sold) |
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El Guero Samba Member
Joined: January 03, 2004 Posts: 1197 Location: I.E. Y-QUE
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Posted: Wed Jan 27, 2016 8:56 pm Post subject: Re: Help - late transmission into '57 Oval |
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Does clutch cable stay the same length when running a later trans? _________________ Praise the Lowered... |
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Bruce Samba Member
Joined: May 16, 2003 Posts: 17290 Location: Left coast, Canada
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Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2016 4:28 am Post subject: Re: Help - late transmission into '57 Oval |
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When I was helping friends put a new clutch cable into a 57 with a full synchro gearbox, the one they had was too short. We ended up installing the cable from a late Beetle: 111 721 335 E _________________
overheard at the portland Swap Meet... wrote: |
..... a steering wheel made from a mastadon tusk..... |
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AceHH Samba Member
Joined: April 24, 2014 Posts: 107 Location: Between Hamburg and Haiti
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Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2018 11:14 am Post subject: Re: Help - late transmission into '57 Oval |
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I also have a fullsynchro Trans in my 56 oval.
My old mechanic told me, someone rebuild the part where the transmission goes in, so I was not in need for the bus nose.
But the transmission was a bit too low so he made on each side some deepening in the chassis.
My main problem is the cluth, when I press it, the cluth come after 2 cm and there is no chance to regulate it at the end of the cluth cable..
Is it possible that it’s why I have a long arm at the pedal and a short at the transmission?
So the way is another than standard with long arm at the pedal and long arm at the transmission. _________________ TY and have a nice Day. |
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sufidancer Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2019 Posts: 8
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Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2019 6:08 pm Post subject: Re: Help - late transmission into '57 Oval |
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Hello folks, I'm resurrecting a old thread, I have a stock 56 bug I want to put a 1967 transaxle in. From this thread it seems the type 2 nosecone and hockey stick are all that's needed .
Some one mentioned banging for clearance? I rather not if that's what is required I'm not gonna do this mod. Nor do I want to weld in a new correct mount. So my question is has any one done a mod like this "Oval pan with Late 60s swing axle with simply using the new type 2 nosecone and hockey stick without having to bang clearance? I want to keep the pan original if I someday care to go back to the old split case. Thoughts?? |
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Snort Samba Member
Joined: April 02, 2005 Posts: 1957 Location: Seattle, WA
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Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2019 7:10 pm Post subject: Re: Help - late transmission into '57 Oval |
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It seems like a hit and miss proposition. Some people on thesamba claim that they have done it without any body dimples. My experience is that my 57 got the dimples and I'm the one who did it. Here is a photo of the damage. I'm not happy with it but it's not the end of my world.
On the other hand, I've wondered about the possibility of taking an angle grinder to the transaxle instead. A person could do quite a bit of nut/stud/nosecone removal without seriously challenging the integrity of the thing and at the end of the day if it doesn't work out you've only ruined 2 studs and 2 nuts and one non-sacred (in my opinion) full synchromesh nosecone.
Maybe you should give it a try. |
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