Help - late transmission into '57 Oval

[sufidancer]

I have a line on 67 trans with axles,starter,drums. 300 bucks and a 5 hr road trip. Getting cold feet after reading about dimples and the trans sitting slanted once completed. How do you like your modification? How's the old girl getting about?

I was thinking of the future,being able to put in more modern smoother trans and a 200mm fly wheel,12v and few more ponies all without having to grind the old split case bell housing or making any permanent mods is my reasoning. And save the old trans,and 6v gen for when I win the lottery to rebuild . Thanks for the response.

[tmdenis]

[Kjell Roar]

One information, if you are running a 36hp engine, and changing the trans to a newer full synchro one, you need a 1500 box to get equal rpms as the original splitcase gearbox.

Its because the 36hp runs on lower rpms (max power @ 3400rpms / 108kmh/68mph) than the 40hp (3800rpms/115kmh/72mph).

Max power = @ cruising speed.
_________________
I got a historic car, every scratch got a history...

My car, Aug. 4th, 1955 / an early 56: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=610438

[RandyV]

sufidancer -- I wouldn't worry about it. Dimples could easily be tapped back down if you even cared to. (THat spot in the luggage tray is pretty obscure & unless you're going full show or pulling carpets out to show somebody sheet metal I can't imagine anybody would care) I've been driving mine for a few months now and didn't even know about this until I saw this thread a month ago. All good, imho! (BTW, I also wouldn't worry about grinding bell housing either. Many a 200mm modded beetle have had to do it & definitely no ill effects. Just making room is all) P.S. I remember my 5 speed trans back in the 90's dimpled my '63 as well, in fact I even hammered a bit when I realized why I couldn't get the trans to go all the way in)

tmdenis --- I believe you do *have* to use the bus nose cone & hockey stick. (Somebody correct me if I'm wrong)

Roar ----- Nice to see those #'s. Though I always feel like my 1200 cruises best at about 63mph. 70+ feels like it's revving out so I keep it under 70. (stock 1200 w/ stock syncro trans @ 4.12 r&p with 205/65-15 rears)

[Peter - Belgium]

Hello all,

I have done this mod as well using the splitscreen nosecone and hockeystick to get a later tunnel gearbox in my 57oval.
I also had to do some little massaging of the metal to clear the nosecone, other than that is was a straight fit to get the gearbox in.

What I'm not reading in any of the posts (or I missed it) is that:
1/ It seems to place the engine a bit more (around 1cm) towards the rear?
2/ Also slightly higher?

I'm using an original cradle at the end of the gearbox, but the 4 bolts to fix those 2 rubbers on the cradle are really at the far end of the slots versus more centered? No freedom there anymore (and I do tighten everything at the nose cone first before tightening the rears).
I also see about a 2cm gap between the firewall and the front engine tin.

The slots for the horizontal rubberseal are bit lower versus the engine tin, so the seal is not well centered here?

Also the rear tin is not fitting at all, I had to modify by cutting off quiet some material before it would even be possible to install?

I did read somewhere about differences in gearbox/engine angle placement between different chassis (one being horizontal, others under a slight slope). Would that be the case here as well?
Note: the engine is a 1600cc with a DynoMax so can not judge on how the tailpipes sit versus the rear apron, but my gutt feel is they would sit pretty close together / touching?

Thanks!
Peter
_________________
356 Outlaw built: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=430774&highlight=

[VW_Jimbo]

[Peter - Belgium]