Color sand and Buffing Explained

[Fattie]

great thread...but I'm a video guy myself....
I found these...


Link


Link

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[Jamerco]

MK

Can I recoat the existing clear I had just applied? I have two coats of clear.

Note it is Two Stage Paint job.

[mdwman]

My '60 Beetle was painted by the PO probably about 13 years ago. It has held up well without fading and looks great from 15 feet. However, up close there is some very light orange peel in spots, some places that seem dull, and a couple runs. I've been thinking I could use this process to really improve the appearance but I have some reservations. The paint job was not done in a professional shop but, I believe in an enthusiast's garage. I presume it was a single stage paint and have no idea how many coats. I wanted to get an opinion on whether to color sand and take a chance there is sufficient paint there, or if there is a buffing compound that I should just stick with. I really can't spring for new paint if I were to burn through. Also, I know sanding is the only way to take care of the runs and I read somewhere on here about a special sanding block for this type work but can't find it again. Can anyone enlighten me?

Finally, I am asking Santa for a buffer. What are the pros and cons of the randon orbital models over the others. Seems some of the newer random orbital jobs operate at high rpms.

Thanks for any tips.
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MDWMAN

[Snoop Bob]

[Matt K.]

[Matt K.]

[hpw]

[Snoop Bob]

But I think what he is asking and what I have heard is that as you paint you spray one coat let dry...color sand...another coat...let dry...color sand and so on until desired then clear coat sand and buff. Or even paint complete...color sand...then clear coat...sand and buff. Any insight on those?
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[Matt K.]

[kombipode]

[hpw]

[kombipode]

For sure. Lots of rich Texans for clients I bet. That was 85K just for labour!

You could buy a fitted workshop for your project at that price?

[scottmk5]

I was wondering if you could recoat single stage (acryl enamel) with either clear and or another coat of the same acry enamel after color sanding and buffing if it gets to thin as in it was a backyard paint job that is presumably thin (maybe 2 coats) and if you can which would be better clear or acry enamel assuming it wasnt burned through the color as you couldnt just clear if that was the case. Also would like to add metalic is it possible to add metallic in with clear over a single stage paint lite pink I call it pepto bismol pink (wifes car) she wants silver metalic over I didnt know if it was possible with totally repainting

Thanks Josh

[68IHscout]

What's a good remedy to getting rid of. Buffing marks on black paint bc cc , I seem to be having this problem lately. Tanks for any input

[TheLoren]

I have a 1970 bus with original red underneath and an ugly yellow that's peeling in places. could I sand the yellow off and use this process to make the red shine? what grit sandpaper would be best to take the yellow off?
(I'm not looking for show quality I just want to get rid of the ugly yellow and have something that looks ok.)
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[deaner]

ok all, of course there are many methods, so this is my experience.
i work for a custom paint shop as lead painter, ghost flames to insurance work. i also paint airplanes, rotorcraft, boats, etc..
single stage is used for original restorations. base/clear is "new".
solid colors can be buffed...with enought paint on..at least four coats is safe advice i feel so you wont burn through. your result will be a deep "waxy" look, highly valued at classic shows.
if you have metallic single stage however your dealing with flat flakes of metal in the paint. when you color sand you are essentialy cutting the edges of and you will end up with a dull sheen...
no way around it.
sanding single stage and re-clearing will result in poor adhesion and 1-5 years later you will be re-shooting. base clear is the most common paint job now and unless our clients request otherwise, its what they get.
unlike enamel, the more clear the more prone to chipping.
quality paint jobs are usually 2 coats of etch primer, 4-6 coats of high build primer, 2 coats of sealer, 4 coats of base and 3 even coats of clear.
the buffing procedures outlined in earlier posts are quite accurate.
if you want more clear, (custom paint layout or layers) one color is shot, and cleared, allowed to cure, sanded with 600, another layout shot, then cleared...etc.....this is to reduce hardlines in the paint, and control chipping).


finally, to add any tips, when buffing show jobs, runs, dirt, etc...are removed with a nib file (mac or snap on trucks should all carry them..about 10 to 25 dollars...) then sanded with 800 and a spray bottle ( i use an acrylic block about 2 by 4 ") and moved up through 2000.
then you buff 3m with a wool pad, moving through buffing compound, and fine compound, and finishing with a fine foam pad (blue 3m) and finishing compound. an entire car should take about 4-6 hours.
i have worked for large high volume insurance shops, and high end custom shops as i moved up in my career, and most shops follow these procedures....
hope this helps!
oh and finally, most painters are more than happy to offer advise and tips at no charge, so take your baby down and ask!

[vwluvrs]

So...
Question for the experts here..
My paint is at least 5 years old, a Maaco job.
They ended up painting the car twice, as the first time thru was un-acceptable. I am pretty sure all they did was knock down the bad areas, and re-squirt the car. I also told them I was going to wet sand/ buff the car, so they were to put a little more paint on specifically with that purpose in mind..
Can you ( or should you) clear coat at this juncture, before sand/polish? Or just go ahead and sand / polish?
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[Ganret]

I plan on sanding my primer/sealer with 600, then applying base, and then clear.

My question is: what if you get a lot of orange peel in the base? Do you sand that down before shooting the clear, or just shoot the clear and sand it down?

Which makes me wonder why they call it "color sanding" when it really seems to be "clear sanding" (just wondering if I'm missing something).

Thanks for the great thread and info.

[IncaBug76]

Just to share, here's the system I use.

1) 3M #2022 1500 W/D Half Sheet (By hand, wet, using a firm block on flat panels, and a flexible block on rounded areas)

2) Mirka's Abralon 2000 Grit Foam Disc (By machine, moist, to remove the 1500 grit scratches, this process is fast. 30-45 seconds per 2ft x 2ft area)

3) Mirka's Abralon 4000 Grit Foam Disc (By machine, moist, to remove the 2000 grit scratches, this process is fast. 30-45 seconds per 2ft x 2ft area)

4) 3M #6060 Rubbing Compound (Used with a white foam compounding pad #5723. The 4000 grit scratch is so fine the compounding process is faster and cleaner)

5) 3M #6085 Machine Glaze (Used with a black foam polishing pad #5725)

6) 3M #6005 Premium Wax (Wax on, Wax off)

[MURZI]

I used the 3M Perfect It system to color sand and buff my car and all I can say is that it turned an OK paint job into a WOW paint job!!!!! You first color sand the car with 3000 grit and then use three different buff pads and three different polishes. Finish with Imperial hand glaze..... No swirl marks....NONE. Keep in mind this is BLACK.

Single stage Limco 3 with the 3M Perfect It buff job.

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