Engine troubles, need input guys.

[levi]

Good progress!
And a couple questions.
After putting on the new t.p.s. to the throttle body, did you adjust it?
While you had the t.b. in your hands did you happen to hold it up to the light and see what kind of fit the butterfly valve inside had? Was there a lot of daylight all around the edges? Tencent did a really great write-up on re-building the inside of the t.b. to eliminate leakage. I did the same thing, but using a different procedure. His way is much better. (wish I had seen his post before I did my rebuild). The result is a much crisper throttle response.
It sounds like you might have some other vac line leaks. In hunting down my own devil, I took off all the lines one by one, large lines and tiny, and found several hidden holes on undersides of the lines. Good luck to you.
And a question about your idle fluctuation: Is the idle fine and steady when you first start up, and then deteriorates as the temp needle moves into standard operating temps? When it does start to fluctuate does it slowly rise for about 4-5 seconds and then suddenly drop to normal, then repeating that pattern?

[westy87]

Take the square cover off of your AFM. Pry it off - you can silicone it back on afterwards. Check the wear pattern under the arm travel. Clean the wear pattern... See any white wear spots? Replace the AFM. It fixed my idle hunting issues. One obvious thing I mssed was the battery ground-to-body right there in the battery box. I replaced the cable and the bolt and sanded the body where the bolt makes contact. That also contributed to a smoother idling machine.

[EXITSTRATEGY]

got as far as KBP's post on not suspecting fuel as "fixes itself". i have had this problem with other vehicles and checked the entire electrical system before discovering the filter in the fuel tank was bad. the vehicle (70 scout) would run just fine until the fuel demand was more than could squeak thru the crud. or until the carb ran dry. i have no idea how this relates to EFI, but i had to say it.

[EXITSTRATEGY]

please keep up the thread and let others of us out here know how it is going so that we might also benefit someday and not suffer as you have.

[vwjedi]

A coupla hundred miles over the last few days back and forth to work, she has run fine, no hic-ups, no stalling out. I'd like to think it is the T.P.S. since it was the most expensive part.

Levi- Yes I did adjust the switch to hear the click at idle and full throttle, the new one has a thin metal arm that had to be modified (bent) a little to make the connection. Like I said the O.G. one seemed better quality.
The throttle body did seem to seal well along the butterfly's edges, 20 years of funk removed should help too. The idle fluctuation starts immediately, just the way you described.

EXITSTRATEGY- No I don't think it is a fuel related issue here but glad to hear that fixed your Scout. I think you just wanted to drop that you used to drive one of the ultimate off road vehicles. I will check back and update if the idle position valve fixes the fluctuating RPM's problem.

I love my Van again!
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1987 Wolfsburg T25 still riding out. A bunch of other VW's passed on...

[[email protected]]

Wont be Pimpin' in the rented Malibu no more?? I bet your sad to see that go

Glad to hear your back on track, if it acts up again I'd check the "flux capacitor" that happened once on my Delorean.

PS: I put the dee-rop on the westy today, pics soon
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Markus

[vwjedi]

Can't wait to see it at the next campout.
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1987 Wolfsburg T25 still riding out. A bunch of other VW's passed on...

[vwjedi]

Just wanted to put in an update to the idle problem. After installing the throttle position switch I didn't have the stalling problem anymore, however she did still have the eratic idle.

While doing a tune up and investigation I noticed the wires leading to the Hall sensor on the distributor were worn and exposing copper, while taping it up the connections broke from 20 years of abuse it was a little brittle. I've had it rigged with Zip ties but the idle was funky fluctuating up to 3K rpms. That had to be changed.

Well, I bought a new Hall sensor from Van Cafe', basicly had to do a distributor rebuild to get it on. The disributor has to be removed, the pin that holds the drive gear on had to be drifted out, the distributor shaft must then be pulled out,new paper seals and watch out to keep all the shims where they were. Cleaned up with new cap/rotor/wires and plugs she is running smooth as butter now.

Now there is another shiny part in the engine bay.
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1987 Wolfsburg T25 still riding out. A bunch of other VW's passed on...

[r39o]

FYI: IF just the connector / wires are funky, I recall you can buy just the connector and crimp ends. A little small surgery and you can also fix that. I used to do it. I think I still have the bits around for that job. I just wait for my Vanagon dizzy to fail. I have several donor dizzys from other period VWs to fix it with. I used to do a LOT of 16V dizzys, because people screwed them up fiddling with them. (You know the one with the glued on rotor!)

Good all is well...
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"Use the SEARCH, Luke" But first visit the Vanagon FAQ!

1990 Multivan EJ 22, Rancho trans 0.82 4th, Small Car front AC, CLKs w/ 215/65-16, homemade big brakes 303mm, Konis, Recaros, etc....

Click to see my ads for Cup holders, Subaru clutch fix and CLK wheels (no wheels currently)

[vwjedi]

I guess I didn't describe it well. The black male connector seen on the left of the distributor was broken off. It is all one piece and when held on with a zip tie likes to ground out the wires and shut off the engine, especialy in rush hour traffic.

The wires leading to the connector female side were also worn where they route under the intake plenum. I re-routed them to go over the top and wrapped in wire protector loom, looks very sporty.
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1987 Wolfsburg T25 still riding out. A bunch of other VW's passed on...

[r39o]

Yep, those pins and that black connector can be bought. I used to. I think via Bosch through distribution. Not via the VW dealer. I had one once of my own where the springy part of the female side was broken off. Had to take a magnifying glass to see it.

Yep, those little parts can cause all sorts of grief!

Good you found it...
_________________
"Use the SEARCH, Luke" But first visit the Vanagon FAQ!

1990 Multivan EJ 22, Rancho trans 0.82 4th, Small Car front AC, CLKs w/ 215/65-16, homemade big brakes 303mm, Konis, Recaros, etc....

Click to see my ads for Cup holders, Subaru clutch fix and CLK wheels (no wheels currently)

[wbx]

[r39o]

I only sourced the dizzy ones. The black one has a tiny part number on it. You get the parts directly through Bosch wholesale distribution. It has been years since I did it. I am not even sure where the parts are right now. I do recall getting new seals via VW and then the Bosch parts via Bosch. So I have to aak again. It is a VERY fiddly job, btw. I have the crimpers, somewhere, too. Soldering might be OK, but a gas tight crimp seems to be the best.

I am going to bet the AFM connectors are going to be tough. If you have a Bosch number, oft times that is all you need. You may wish to call Bosch at their tech support line. Might get lucky.

Stay tuned....
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"Use the SEARCH, Luke" But first visit the Vanagon FAQ!

1990 Multivan EJ 22, Rancho trans 0.82 4th, Small Car front AC, CLKs w/ 215/65-16, homemade big brakes 303mm, Konis, Recaros, etc....

Click to see my ads for Cup holders, Subaru clutch fix and CLK wheels (no wheels currently)

[wbx]

[r39o]

Damon,

Understand. Actually, I am on the list for the replacement AFM that uses a hot wire MAF sensor. I think you really want to use a MAF instead. But that is MHO.

I need the part number off the little black dizzy connector. I do not have a spare dizzy loose. If I have the number, I think I can get the connectors. I know the connector that plugs into the dizzy can be gotten, as it was used on millions of A2s.

-W
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"Use the SEARCH, Luke" But first visit the Vanagon FAQ!

1990 Multivan EJ 22, Rancho trans 0.82 4th, Small Car front AC, CLKs w/ 215/65-16, homemade big brakes 303mm, Konis, Recaros, etc....

Click to see my ads for Cup holders, Subaru clutch fix and CLK wheels (no wheels currently)

[wbx]

[r39o]

Yep, another thread jack....damn, you know stuff happens....

BTW: Whilst jacking the thread, I thought, I might add my idea is still to use the original FI ECU box to mount the MegaSquirt in my self. I see more and more stuff and revisions coming out. By the time I get around to it, they will have it all ready to go and all I will have to do is plug it in! Ya, right...

Oh, so sorry for the OT, New thread time? When we get the connector numbers we will post those and refernece this as the reason why.

Call it "Connector Madness?"

Thanks all....
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"Use the SEARCH, Luke" But first visit the Vanagon FAQ!

1990 Multivan EJ 22, Rancho trans 0.82 4th, Small Car front AC, CLKs w/ 215/65-16, homemade big brakes 303mm, Konis, Recaros, etc....

Click to see my ads for Cup holders, Subaru clutch fix and CLK wheels (no wheels currently)

[vwjedi]

UUmmm................really it was "broken". like pieces of plastic that were once one piece of plastic. I honestly think that replacing the hall sensor is the only way to properly fix a "broken" one.

The zip tie is not a "fix" either.
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1987 Wolfsburg T25 still riding out. A bunch of other VW's passed on...