new calipers

[lovedavdubs]

I'll be installing a set of brand new Girling calipers this weekend. Can anybody post a link to a brake bleeding tutorial. I've never done this before and want to lay out a game plan before I start pulling things apart.
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82 Air-cooled Westy (Lola)...My other vehicle is a subway.

[kevinbassplayer]

This is a link I had marked for changing a brake master cylinder, it does include info on bleeding (I haven't had to do this..... yet )

http://www.vanagonauts.com/index.phtml?catid=190

On a side note, you should update your avatar, your van looks awesome with the GW wheels! I was orginally lusting after the Reins for the last year but after seeing the pictures you posted, I'm leaning heavily towards the go westy 15" wheels! (It never ends does it?!)

[lovedavdubs]

Thanks Kev

I've put quite a few miles on them since January and I highly recommend them.
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82 Air-cooled Westy (Lola)...My other vehicle is a subway.

[riceye]

Here you go:

Pull all of the bleeders - one by one. Use a box end wrench - preferably six point - and be careful! Penetrating oil may help. Take the bleeder out, run a wire through the hole, and clean it on a wire wheel on a bench grinder (or the like). Apply a thin film of anti-sieze to the threads. Replace into the wheel cylinder or caliper.

When you have all the bleeders cleaned up and replaced, pull the shrouding off of the instrument cluster. Unscrew the cap from the master, and suck all the old brake fluid out with a bulb syringe or vacuum pump. Don't get brake fluid on paint or plastic, as it may soften the finish. Refill with DOT 4 fluid from a fresh, sealed bottle. I use synthetic. Buy a quart.

You will need the help of a compadre for the actual bleeding, unless you build or buy a bleeder. The total time to bleed with a helper will be far less than the time to purchase or assemble a pressure bleeder. The helper will operate the pedal, and replenish the fluid as necessary. They can also replenish their own fluids with their favorite beverage. It is a pretty mindless task.

Start with the right rear wheel - farthest from the master. Attach a piece of 3/16" clear tubing to the bleeder and run it into an empty jug. The old brake fluid will be recycled with your waste oil later. Tell the helper "Pump it up". A half a dozen slow, gentile pumps on the pedal. Then tell them "hold it". They must hold the pedal until you say "Okay". While they hold the pedal, you open the bleeder 1/4 turn which will release a mixture of old brake fluid and, perhaps, air. When the flow has stopped, close the bleeder, then tell the helper "Okay, pump it up", and "hold it" and repeat until the fluid in the clear tubing has become much cleaner than when you started. About six to eight fluid ounce should do it. The helper must keep pressure on the pedal whenever you have the bleeder open. Make sure the helper refills the master frequently. If it goes empty, you will need to start over again. Pour slowly to prevent bubbles. No pedal pressure when refilling the master.

After the fluid runs clear from the right rear, move to the left rear. This bleeder will not take nearly as long, as the majority of the fluid has already been flushed from the line through the right rear. Next is right front, then left front. I like to quickly repeat the entire procedure, just to be sure.

Important things to remember:
*Don't break a bleeder, or the job will become much more difficult! Clean them up and anti-sieze to ensure future successes.
*Your pedal pumper must listen to your commands, and be diligent with the pressure.
*The helper must keep fluid in the master. Always replace the cap after refilling. Otherwise, the fluid will shoot up like a Yellowstone geyser when the pedal is released.
* Watch the fluid coming through the tubing. You can see bubbles and impurities flow through.

When you are done, you should have a nice firm pedal, and the brakes should not pull or dive when the van is driven and stopped.

This should be done every two years. Clutch fluid, too!

Have fun!

Regards,
Ric
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'87 Westy Weekender - daily driver on salt-free roads

There's gonna be some changes made.

“I find that things usually go well right up until the moment they don't.” - Ahwahnee

"Quality isn't method. It's the goal toward which the method is aimed." - Socrates, later quoted by R.M. Pirsig

[lovedavdubs]

Man you guys are the best
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82 Air-cooled Westy (Lola)...My other vehicle is a subway.

[jacob.]

I figured I'd resurrect an old thread instead of posting a new one. I'm doing this tomorrow or friday, and I don't know where the bleeders are. Do I have to take the wheel off? Any pictures of where the bleeders are located? I get how the process works (same as a motorcycle, except that had 2 pistons), and i'm confident about that, but I just don't know where the bleeders are.

thanks,
Jacob.
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[MarkWard]

No you don't need to take the wheels off, but if this is your first time, I would suggest pulling the wheels. The bleeders should be obvious on front and rear. The rear bleeders are next to the steel line where it connects to the wheel cylinder. I think 87 is single piston calipers. The bleeders should be near the top inner of the caliper. Old ones are easy to snap off. Don't rush it.
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☮️

[Perales]

Once you locate the bleeders, slow down!
Spray them with PB-Blaster or something similar to help loosen them. let it sit for a while, maybe over night. Then do the job. If they have not been bled for a while, they may be seized and they do tend to break if you force them. Then you are F###ed.
The job is easy, but don't force anything.
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-- 1987 Westfalia automatic (Captain Vino)

[whafalia]

And use a box-end wrench.

[morymob]

so far the ones i have run into are 7 MM bleeders. Where did u get new girling calipers/ i've had a bitch of a time finally getting rebuilds.

[syncrodoka]

This original thread is 4 years old, it got resurrected for bleeder info. Bus Depot does have new units though-
http://busdepot.com/details.jsp?partnumber=251615123D
http://busdepot.com/details.jsp?partnumber=251615124D

[morymob]

[epowell]

Great bleeding tutorial! I will be bleeding the entire system today or tomorrow.
ONE QUESTION ONLY - regarding WORK SEQUENCE:
1) REAR RIGHT WHEEL
2) CLUTCH
3) REAR LEFT WHEEL
4) FRONT RIGHT WHEEL
5) FRONT LEFT WHEEL correct? i.e. "start with the furthest away from the master, then work towards the master..."

[Ahwahnee]

[ALIKA T3]

Hello!

I use an old cap with no sensor in, and a tire valve mounted to the cap after drilling.
Then bicycle pump, and you can bleed yourself without ruining the cups inside the master cylinder by pumping many times to the floor.

I also cleaned the whole system with rubbing alcohol and then switched to DOT5, but that's optional.
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Silicone Steering Boots and 930 Cv boots for sale in the classifieds.
Syncro transmission upgrade parts in the Classifieds.
Subaru EJ22+UN1 5 speed transmission
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=416343
Syncro http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4...num+gadget

[amwaj]

thats a neat idea
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the best way to make a small fortune in life, is to start with a big one, and become afflicted with Vanagon-itis