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JustBuggy
Samba Member
Joined: August 01, 2010
Posts: 849
Location: SF Bay Area, Ca.
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 Posted: Sun Aug 01, 2010 6:50 am Post subject: |
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I'm the new guy in, 1st post. I'm not new to VW but it's been 30 yrs since I last did any work on a bug. I'm sure there are lots of new ideas and items.
This thread is a great informational tool. I really like all the pictures that show the step by step procedures. I messed with the rear torsion bar adjustment way back when.
The thing I remember was it was a real wrestle to get the sway arm separated from the chassi. I like the tool that is shown. You really need something like this.
Does anyone have a step by step procedure for attaching the front beam adjustable lowering kit?
Are these the weld in type?
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blankmange
Type 3 Darksider
Joined: July 17, 2004
Posts: 11498
Location: Bloßer Stahl-preapocalyptic MidCoast
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| Posted: Sun Aug 01, 2010 6:55 am Post subject: |
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| JustBuggy wrote: |
I'm the new guy in, 1st post. I'm not new to VW but it's been 30 yrs since I last did any work on a bug. I'm sure there are lots of new ideas and items.
This thread is a great informational tool. I really like all the pictures that show the step by step procedures. I messed with the rear torsion bar adjustment way back when.
The thing I remember was it was a real wrestle to get the sway arm separated from the chassi. I like the tool that is shown. You really need something like this.
Does anyone have a step by step procedure for attaching the front beam adjustable lowering kit?
Are these the weld in type?
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that is for a Type 1 beam and will not work in a Type 3 unless you've hacked your Type 3 and put in a Type 1 beam...
_________________
póg mo thóin
Certified DHS Technician
Samba Member # 24517 |
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laura50
Samba Member
Joined: February 20, 2011
Posts: 2
Location: Midwest
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| Posted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 8:02 pm Post subject: |
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| I have been wanting to lower my type three for a while, I just have been a little afraid of how it might hurt the ride quality. My husband has one as well and his is really bumpy. |
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turbomicrowaves
Samba Member
Joined: February 25, 2007
Posts: 1136
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| Posted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 9:41 am Post subject: |
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| laura50 wrote: |
| I have been wanting to lower my type three for a while, I just have been a little afraid of how it might hurt the ride quality. My husband has one as well and his is really bumpy. |
Lowering will definitely affect the ride quality, it all depends on how low you want to make it. If you go really low the ride will be pretty rough. If you only plan on going one of two splines front and rear, the ride shouldn't be too bad. Oldspeed offers some drop spindle and narrowed arms and Bert3 also has some drop spindles specifically for type 3's. These parts aren't cheap, but they will improve the ride quality of a lowered car.
_________________
'68 Sunroof Squareback
"There are no pieces"
OCT3 - Orange County Type 3's |
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'71 square
Samba Member
Joined: January 01, 2014
Posts: 49
Location: vallejo, California
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| Posted: Fri Feb 14, 2014 10:21 am Post subject: |
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| If anybody is going about adjusting the suspension, Could somebody post a video ? the only videos i could find ended up being deleted. |
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KTPhil 
Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2006
Posts: 34003
Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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Erik G
Samba Member
Joined: October 16, 2002
Posts: 13271
Location: Tejas!
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| Posted: Fri Feb 14, 2014 12:22 pm Post subject: |
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As he stated, those videos are long deleted. I understand how vidoes help. Watching a video on GM Truck removal and replacing a knock sensor made me feel confident enough to tackle it. It's easy, just time consuming and saved me a significant amt of money
That said, lowering a type3 is super easy, the first time I did it I was 18 or so, with limited VW knowledge and limited tools. All you need are very basic hand tools, a pry bar is helpful as well. Read up on it, and just tackle it head first. If you run into problems or have questions, just ask here. make sure you buy smaller front tires before you start
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Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery! |
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joey1320
Samba Member
Joined: September 12, 2006
Posts: 2325
Location: Cleveland, OH
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| Posted: Fri Feb 14, 2014 5:07 pm Post subject: |
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I will be lowering my '70 square in the coming months and will be videotaping the whole ordeal and posting it on my YouTube. Not gonna help you now, but its like 2degrees in the garage right now, so I'm definitely not gonna go out there lol.
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**1971 Super Project
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0 |
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wack01
Samba Member
Joined: December 14, 2006
Posts: 71
Location: YUMA ARIZONA
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| Posted: Thu Feb 27, 2014 11:27 am Post subject: |
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Caution in the service manual it states to torque the 4 bolts on spring plate hub cover to 80ft lbs. I did and learned the hard way it snapped a bolt!! and deformed the stamped torsion housing. Also my plate was flush with the torsion housing.
Torque to the correct value for a
M10*1.50 grade 8.8 bolt to 37ft lbs and save yourself the trouble |
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Copygod
Samba Member
Joined: July 01, 2013
Posts: 2
Location: Ft Rucker, AL
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| Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2015 8:23 pm Post subject: IRS? |
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Anyone know how I'm supposed to move the hub out of the way with this dual spline setup on an IRS? I've read the whole thread and gave a hard time believing I'm the first person to see this, so if anyone can give me the hey-stupid kick in the pants, I could use it right now...
And please don't say "remove that last bolt", it's keeping stuff together while I sleep tonight... |
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Copygod
Samba Member
Joined: July 01, 2013
Posts: 2
Location: Ft Rucker, AL
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| Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2015 8:44 pm Post subject: |
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| I was afraid of that, I found the Bentley and it says to remove the diagonal arm from its bracket (not the drive arm). Hopefully this will help someone else in the future... Otherwise, I'll just look stupid for my first post... |
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Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22413
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2015 9:36 pm Post subject: |
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| Copygod wrote: |
| I was afraid of that, I found the Bentley and it says to remove the diagonal arm from its bracket (not the drive arm). Hopefully this will help someone else in the future... Otherwise, I'll just look stupid for my first post... |
I just raised the rear of the car high enough to move the arm out of my way (about 16 to 18 inches off the ground). You'll have to disconnect the CV joint to move the arm though.  Then, you'll just pry the double arm off the stop (keep your feet clear).
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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Air-Cooled Head
Samba Member
Joined: October 15, 2002
Posts: 4070
Location: Chicago Suburbs
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| Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2015 1:06 pm Post subject: Why I love The Samba |
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I knew there was a thread on here about lowering, because I used it several years ago when I lowered my car.
Last night I made the decision to raise the rear of my T3, and thought I'd have to search for this thread for a refresher.
Today, I log on, and here is the thread I needed, right on the first page!
Man, I LOVE The Samba! 
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Everything known to man has been written.
Readers are Leaders! |
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blues90
Samba Member
Joined: March 14, 2009
Posts: 1912
Location: Hollywood ,CA
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| Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2015 5:43 pm Post subject: |
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Doesn't raising or lowering the rear on a double jointed axle change the camber? If I read the Bentley correct this is the way to change the camber on the rear.
I have no idea what the stock height is supposed to be. I always wondered on the rear on mine because one set of rear tires that looked good on the outside and one day I came out of work with a flat only to discover the inner 3rd of each rear tire was showing the steel belts .
I haven't changed a thing but just eye balling the rear the tires look a bit in at the tops but equal on both sides. For some reason these tires have not worn un- even. |
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Seattle72
Samba Member
Joined: December 23, 2014
Posts: 41
Location: Oakland, CA
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| Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2015 10:41 pm Post subject: |
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This is probably a dumb question, but I will ask it anyway. When lowering the front via the inner splines I understand the procedure of loosening the opposite bolt to free the torsion bar, but do you then tighten everything up and repeat the procedure on the other side? Nobody ever says that specifically (probably because it's inferred that you need to do that  ) so I just wanted to make sure I understood. Thanks.
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------------------------------------------------------------
1964 VW Beetle
my past loves....
1971 Super Beetle
1976 BMW 2002
1971 BMW 2002
1972 Squareback
1984 Rabbit GTI |
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dwoah
Samba Member
Joined: July 24, 2010
Posts: 21
Location: Knoxville, TN
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| Posted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 12:30 am Post subject: |
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Yes, repeat the same thing on the other side. I just lowered the front of mine 2 weeks ago 3 inner, pretty easy process once you figure it out.
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Dennis Womack
'71 fastback
East Tennessee Aircooled Hooligans |
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Randall
Samba Member
Joined: October 03, 2004
Posts: 1403
Location: Orange County, Alta California, El Norte
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| Posted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 11:24 pm Post subject: |
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| wack01 wrote: |
Caution in the service manual it states to torque the 4 bolts on spring plate hub cover to 80ft lbs. I did and learned the hard way it snapped a bolt!! and deformed the stamped torsion housing. Also my plate was flush with the torsion housing.
Torque to the correct value for a
M10*1.50 grade 8.8 bolt to 37ft lbs and save yourself the trouble |
I think you might have something there. The Haynes Type 3 manual lists 72 ft-lbs which is 90% of the figure you cited. Fortunately for me I haven't snapped any bolts.
The table linked below recommends a maximum torque of 37 ft-lbs for an M10 8.8 bolt. The Type 3 Bentley manual on page 77 of the Transmission and Rear Axle chapter has a table listing tightening torques. Of the seven instances for M10-1.5 none is more than 43 ft-lbs.
http://electronicfilters.tpub.com/TM-10-4330-237-13P/css/TM-10-4330-237-13P_105.htm |
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oxsign
Samba Member
Joined: February 19, 2006
Posts: 607
Location: Sanford, FL
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| Posted: Sun Apr 26, 2015 12:19 pm Post subject: |
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I just lowered the front of my '71 Fasty yesterday. 3 outers, but I need to go back in and cut the bump stops out cause it's sitting on them, lol. I'll be running air shocks with manual valves to ajust the height a few inches. The rear was already lowered and on air shocks as well. I'll be attaching them to switches too. I'll get pix up later on once I cut the stops.
_________________
1971 Squareback, fully bagged, 1776.
Build thread here.....
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0 |
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wridej
Samba Member
Joined: February 24, 2015
Posts: 19
Location: Perth, Western Australia
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| Posted: Thu Aug 20, 2015 12:01 am Post subject: |
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I just had a go at lowering the front of my notch and now I need some advice on how to close this clamp up (at the bottom) enough to be able to thread the bolt back in.
any effort to try just starts stripping the thread on the bolt. 
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frits01
Samba Member
Joined: August 26, 2010
Posts: 11
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| Posted: Wed Nov 11, 2015 10:04 am Post subject: |
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| topnotch wrote: |
| ush the lower ball joint out of the lower arm - you`ll probably need a hammer and some sort of clamps maybe to compress the upper and lower arms together |
Any suggestions anyone on what kind of tool to do this? 
the balljoint is loose but the arm wont come out... So I think i need some kind of clamps... |
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