engine removal question

orangebug60guy · Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2006 9:31 am Post subject: engine removal question

so my brother and i were trying to take the engine out of the bus. we unbolted everythiing. and were shimying it off the trans wen the drivers side upper bolt on the trans is making it difficult to take off. That bolt is holding us up and we can't bang it out. the passenger side moves out just enough to the point where we can't go any farther and it just won't come off. how can we pull this thing out? we're so close i can smell it but we can't get that bolt off the top. any help?
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Shagg · Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2006 10:01 am Post subject:

It doesn't come out,it's usually a stud that stays. Not to be rude, but you did take the nut(17mm) off of it??? If you have all four off (3 nuts, 1 nut and bolt in the starter, it should come out. They do occasionally bind(clutch,flywheel,etc.) nothing a little "wigglin" wont solve. Be careful when you do get it loose, not to pinch your plug wires between the tin and the body seal... Good luck!!!
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orangebug60guy · Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2006 10:05 am Post subject:

all the bolts are are off. its the bolt on the clutch arm side. it doesn't want to come out. we tried wiggleing like crazy.
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Coprastasophobia- Fear of constipation.

arthurnugen · Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2006 11:27 am Post subject:

I would pause, get under there, and just look. It's obvious, but are you sure you disconnected everything? Heater cable barrel nuts, heater tubes, gas line, accelerator barrel nut?
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Shagg · Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2006 4:04 pm Post subject:

coronamv · Samba Member Joined: September 09, 2006 Posts: 17

Just dropped my engine from my 66 micro and it took about 2 hours. Same issue got it free from bolts and wiring and hoses and it just would not go any farther. My friend got on it and started jerking it and wamo it came free. Now the fun begins should I tear it down all the way or is there a way to know how far is enough to save money?

Campy · Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 1:51 am Post subject:

The upper left side of the bell housing has a bolt that goes through it, not a stud. Once the bolt is free of the nut, the engine can be removed without removing the bolt. If yours is jammed in the hole, then someone forced a larger size bolt through the hole. Spray PBblaster on the bolt, then put locking pliers on the head of the bolt and twist it while pulling on it.

crukab · Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 2:29 am Post subject:

orangebug60guy · Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 4:55 am Post subject:

ok, i just think dan and i are physically not strong enough, so we'll get my father out there and we'll all pull. that thing is being a rat and a half. Need to get this thing going so we can go to transporterfest on sunday!
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Arachibutyrophobia- Fear of peanut butter sticking to the roof of the mouth.
Coprastasophobia- Fear of constipation.

Braukuche · Samba Member Joined: September 03, 2004 Posts: 11004

Riff Raff · Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 8:22 am Post subject:

One other possibility is that a PO used one of the half moon bolts into a later case with the threaded insert.
I found this to be the case on the 58 Kombi. It was almost impossible to turn the bolt out because I could not get any form of wrench or Vise Grip on the head of the bolt. I managed to turn it with my thumb and fore finger 1/100 of a turn per try. After about an hour of misery, my raw and bleeding digits finally freed the bolt.
Wiggle under the bus with a flashlight and spy up above the transaxle to confirm what kind of bolt is there. Also, look behind the shroud to be sure as to whether or not the case has the threaded insert or a nut. You may also have a doghouse oil cooler and a nut instead of the threaded insert. That makes the nut exceedingly difficult to get a wrench on. Investigate both sides of the nut/bolt, that way you can be sure what you are up against.
BTW, you should be plenty strong enough to wiggle the engine out by yourself if everything is unhooked properly.
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Yellowbeard · Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 11:03 am Post subject:

_monkey_ · Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 11:06 am Post subject:

The time I had this issue where it seemed to be hanging up on the driver's side top bolt, it turned out to be the accellerator cable the was caught up.

j.pickens · Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 1:37 pm Post subject:

If its not the four engine mount points, check the accelerator cable, heater control cables, choke cable, fuel line, various wires to the engine which may or may not be in the right place, upper heater boxes catching on the front shroud or engine seal rubber, auxiliary oil cooler lines, busted throw out bearing catching on the clutch.

Not all these things are supposed to be on your engine, but you never know...

Anything else?
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orangebug60guy · Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 6:04 pm Post subject:

should it be in neutral or in gear, or something? it just seems like the bolt is binding up.
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Arachibutyrophobia- Fear of peanut butter sticking to the roof of the mouth.
Coprastasophobia- Fear of constipation.

Mikee · Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 6:08 pm Post subject:

Maybe you should let us know where you are at, and maybe someone can stop by and tell you what you are doing wrong
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obus · Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 6:19 pm Post subject:

i think they are in massachusetts
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j.pickens · Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 7:40 pm Post subject:

Campy · Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 11:58 pm Post subject:

The bolt isn't the problem: the last one inch of it would easily slide out of the hole. Does the engine have a dog house fan shroud? If it does, unless it has been converted to a dog house oil cooler, it has a round nut attached to the case. You have to use a rachet with a long extension and socket on it to unscrew the bolt from the front. Did you do that?

crukab · Posted: Tue Sep 26, 2006 2:40 am Post subject:

Dammmmm Guys, I wish I'd seen this Sunday a.m., I drove right thru Northhampden Sunday.
you've got mail
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Tom

My Pops:
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I know you will always be with me, rest in peace with no more pain. 8/13/14.....

In the yard right now:
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'65 Bug
'66 Singlecab
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