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73kombi Banned
Joined: April 11, 2006 Posts: 1215 Location: ~The London Bridge, AZ~
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Posted: Wed Oct 25, 2006 2:47 pm Post subject: The last two hours......Heater thread. |
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Well yesterday I was at the Home De Pot, and I bought a roll of bubble insulation (kinda like a water heater blanket), some foil tape, and a pack of zip ties.......today I wrapped all my, (under the bus), heater tubes with shiny silver insulation.....(it was a beotch rolling arround in the dirt)......my stock heater jumped from marginally working, to almost good enough! It's pretty cold here in CO right now and I can say that the $20 spent was well worth it!
And as a side note......I stopped in at Rocky Mountain Motorworks in Colorado Springs and chatted with Jeremy.......he was saying there is a guy in Cascade, CO that works on Epashacher heaters, but couldn't remember his name. Anyone here from Colorado that might know who this guy is? My BN4 is still having a few issues, and I am ready to pay for an expert. I really don't want to ship it to Ark Mirvis for $175 + shipping.
peace |
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Randy in Maine Samba Member
Joined: August 03, 2003 Posts: 34890 Location: The Beach
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73kombi Banned
Joined: April 11, 2006 Posts: 1215 Location: ~The London Bridge, AZ~
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Posted: Wed Oct 25, 2006 3:24 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks Randy.......you know it's working kinda fine on the bench in the garage, but kinda not........it seems to be drawing to much amperage? I mean if I fire it up not using the blue leads, it will burn......but if the fan motor isn't started first it, just burns the fuse.......I did get a new relay from another Samba member (thank you) but it has me frustrated! to say the least.
peace
p.s. I just took a little road trip, (10 miles lol) and the factory heater is KICKING ASS! (34 degrees and some snow) I just want the BN4 for pre-heating.
on edit: I actually have a factory manual from a type 3 for the heater, it came with Bessie. |
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Randy in Maine Samba Member
Joined: August 03, 2003 Posts: 34890 Location: The Beach
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Posted: Wed Oct 25, 2006 3:36 pm Post subject: |
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They do draw about 15 amps as I recall. Not sure but I think that is why most buses (72-79) that came with them usually got the 70 amp alternator.
I really know nothing about them other than I don't have one. |
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73kombi Banned
Joined: April 11, 2006 Posts: 1215 Location: ~The London Bridge, AZ~
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Posted: Wed Oct 25, 2006 3:48 pm Post subject: |
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I have used the 25 amp fuses.......burnt! I really think the fan motor is getting weak and drawing all the amps......(my guess)......I don't wanna burn up another relay!
If anyone in Colorado knows this dude in Cascade, please lemme know!
peace |
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VWsArent4Hippies Samba Member
Joined: April 13, 2005 Posts: 3079 Location: The Bull City
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Posted: Wed Oct 25, 2006 4:34 pm Post subject: |
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Who is Ark Mirvis? _________________
aeromech wrote: |
in my opinion you don't know shit |
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Duncwarw Samba Member
Joined: August 25, 2003 Posts: 3094
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Posted: Wed Oct 25, 2006 4:50 pm Post subject: |
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Be careful what you insulate, Here's what happened to what I like to call my Concertina pipes after I insulated them:
I'd say insulate everything FORWARD of the concertinas (Y-pipe, center pipe, and so on).
Glad you got your heat working. _________________ “To find yourself, think for yourself”
Socrates, 470 BC - 399 BC |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51149 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Wed Oct 25, 2006 4:50 pm Post subject: |
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You need to lube the combustion motor bushings, the little drop of oil in there doesn't last 25-30 years. It's a pain in the ass but you can do it yourself. The heater needs to come apart completely (good time to clean all the ground connections in there too) The hardest part is getting the thermostat switch out (usually seized in for life, lots of penetrating oil and small turns back and forth) Don't break off the bung it's screwed into or you are screwed, Once the combustion chamber is out the motor unclamps from it, mark it's position first. I have removed the motor from a bn-4 without taking off the thermostat but it's tricky. The orange fan comes off with a metric machine screw threaded into the brass hole and the fan in the combustion chamber comes off with a small allen key through the conveinently placed hole on the dirty side of the motor. Once you get both fans off and the point cover off (small slot head screw) you can drip some oil into the bushings. Clean the points and dump out the crap from the combustion chamber, don't blow it out with air you'll remove the asbestos jacket inside and it needs that. Now, remember where all those parts and wires came from ?? hope you took pictures.
Or search the classifieds for the guy in CO who does these every day, he usually has kits for sale. |
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puertoangel Samba Member
Joined: November 11, 2003 Posts: 5
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Posted: Wed Oct 25, 2006 5:43 pm Post subject: |
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I Think this is the person you are looking for
[email protected]
Centennial Co. |
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Belgarath Samba Member
Joined: August 22, 2006 Posts: 16
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Posted: Wed Oct 25, 2006 10:39 pm Post subject: |
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I believe Randy at Sport Car Services rebuilds BN4's. You may want to try giving him a call if you're already in The Springs. He's got a great reputation with Pikes Peak Volkswagen Club, but I've never dealt with him personally. |
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jpeters Samba Member
Joined: May 06, 2005 Posts: 1025 Location: Woodsfield, Ohio
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Posted: Thu Oct 26, 2006 7:54 am Post subject: |
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Don't mean to hijack thread, but I have a bn4 as well. I took it apart and rebuilt it last winter and it worked great (when it worked). It will work for a few hours (not continuous hours) and then the glow plug gets fouled up and it won't work anymore. I've read the manuals, and I think that it is getting to much fuel, but I can't seem to figure out how to change that. Any thoughts? _________________ '73 Westy (dual stock carbs, SVDA w/ compufire)
'68 Westy http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=484180
'65 Westy SO-42 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=435614
'65 Bug
'63 Bug
neverdnf on Instagram |
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