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lining up and centering the clutch disc (edit- pp size too)
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4c-ounce-jamboree
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 29, 2006 7:17 pm    Post subject: lining up and centering the clutch disc (edit- pp size too) Reply with quote

just to be safe, im second guessing my work...

getting my 1914 ready to put in the bug. i bought it used with no clutch disc or pressure plate. today i bolted on a slightly used kennedy stage 2 pressure plate(with center ring for my early style throw out bearing) and a kush lok clutch disc underneath.

my method for centering the disc wasnt very scientific. i tightened the pressure plate just enough to put some pressure on the clutch disc. just enough pressure to hold the clutch disc in place but still be able to move it around. i eyeballed centering up the pressure plate ring, the center of the clutch disc, and the gland nut, then tightened down the presure plate.

it all looks very centered and ready for a trans shaft to slide right in. i just got that feeling that it was too easy and i must of overlooked something... something to do with the splines on the trans shaft, perhaps?

can anyone give me either some reassurance or direction?

thanks!
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Last edited by 4c-ounce-jamboree on Mon Oct 30, 2006 4:19 pm; edited 1 time in total
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67jason
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 29, 2006 7:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

take the guess work out of it and get yourself a clutch alingment tool.

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC%2DC10%2D7000

or an old trans input shaft will work too.
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Glenn Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 29, 2006 7:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The plastic tool is like $5. Buy one and take the guess work out of it.
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 29, 2006 8:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have an old junk transaxle laying around yank the output shaft and use that. I have been using one for 16 years now. Work great for pushing out wrist pins too.
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4c-ounce-jamboree
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 29, 2006 8:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

didnt know those tools existed. ill be ordering one in the morning.

while its on its way though...
if i can get my engine mounted the way it is now(via my eyeballin method), should that mean my clutch plate is in spec close enough to work correctly?

i guess what im asking here is if that tool is meant more for getting the trans shaft to fit, or is it more to get the clutch plate EXACTLY where its supposed to be in relation to the pressure plate?

i understand that it accomplishes both tasks, but can one assume that if one of those tasks is complete, than they both are?
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 29, 2006 8:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ive installed engines where i didnt have the tool to line up the clutch plate properly. i managed to get it close and got the engine in with no bad side effects. however if you are off even by a little bit the engine wont go in...it will hang up on the last 2 inches or so.
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 30, 2006 9:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can try to install the engine and see if it will go. You either got it right and the engine bolts up, or the clutch is a little off center and the engine won't ever bolt up. Don't guess just buy the tool.

A stage II is way too much pressure plate for a 1915cc
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4c-ounce-jamboree
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 30, 2006 4:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

vwracerdave wrote:
A stage II is way too much pressure plate for a 1915cc


yeah, i was wondering about this. a couple of local bug guys seemed to think this set up would work for me with only a sore left leg as a result.
i figured id be able to tell pretty quickly after installing the motor if it was going to be overkill on my ole swing axle tranny, and if it was, id try a different combo.

will i have enough clutch for this motor with my stock 3 finger pressure plate and clutch disc? how about using the stock 3 finger pressure plate with the kush-lok disc(this is what im thinking of doing now)?

anyone wanna trade a stage 1 kep for my stage 2 kep?Wink

if it matters... car is a baja(maybe a lil bit lighter than stock cuzza fiberglass kit), rear tires are 225/75 r15, and engine is probably around 85hp.
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RIS
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 30, 2006 4:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

4c-ounce-jamboree wrote:
rear tires are 225/75 r15, and engine is probably around 85hp.


Stock pressure plate and kush-lok will handle that...
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4c-ounce-jamboree
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 30, 2006 7:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RIS wrote:
4c-ounce-jamboree wrote:
rear tires are 225/75 r15, and engine is probably around 85hp.


Stock pressure plate and kush-lok will handle that...


even if my stock pressure plate is this one?...

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


i just went outside and grabbed my old pressure plate to give it a once over. its the same one as pictured above. found mention in an old post that it may be a 180mm plate. ill be doing some measuring and engine comparing in the morning.

how bout if i dont use the stage 2 or the above pressure plate and get a new pressure plate all together.
should i stick with a stock 200mm plate and save a couple bucks, or would it be worth it to step up to a kep stage 1?
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 31, 2006 4:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

In a pinch you can use a socket to center the disk. Find a deep socket that fits tight in the gland bearing. Then wrap it with a little tape to make it fit snug in the clutch disc. Simple and effective centering tool. Wink
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4c-ounce-jamboree
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 31, 2006 10:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

did some measuring, and that above pictured pressure plate has the same diameter and clutch disc surface area as the kep stage 2. i think it should work, but i think i might just spend the extra 50 clams and get a new stock pressure plate to be safe.
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 31, 2006 5:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

that pressure plate is just the old style, the new ones have the diaphragm look instead...they both should work fine
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