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williamdenson Samba Member
Joined: March 19, 2006 Posts: 138 Location: Middle Tennessee
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Posted: Tue Oct 26, 2010 12:59 pm Post subject: |
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I agree completely ... Don't cut anything until you have what you are going to use ...
I do think your set looks good above ... Looks as if it would handle a lot of torque ....
Again,, I'll get a photo or two of the "Johnson's " up here on the site before the week is out .... _________________ DenCo Engineering Group.. |
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bdkw1 Samba Member
Joined: December 08, 2008 Posts: 798 Location: SoCal
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Posted: Sat Oct 30, 2010 8:58 am Post subject: |
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williamdenson wrote: |
JDub,,,, Johnny Johnson was the last I knew that made the adapters, at least at a "production" level.... |
Yup, I talked to him about them yesterday, He was pretty amazed that people were still looking for them LOL......
When I get back down to La Paz in two weeks I'm going to see if he has any problems with Me making up some more.......... |
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williamdenson Samba Member
Joined: March 19, 2006 Posts: 138 Location: Middle Tennessee
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Posted: Mon Nov 01, 2010 7:14 pm Post subject: |
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I tried to get in touch with John a few years ago.. I was trying to find out who he got to grind his stubs ...
For a while he was selling 1.68 axle sets ... We bought one set from him way back there.... (Still in perfect shape) ,,,
He was using an OEM top gear(16T) ,, but the best I could tell,, a machine shop somewhere was grinding out the 27 tooth stub .....
I was wanting another set,, and was ready to run down whatever he was doing and copy it ...
I got lucky,, and with a couple of friends here on The Samba, ended up with almost 2 more sets that were factory NOS ...
I got a phone call the other day,, I had to travel overseas again,, didn't get to take the photos I promised earlier,, will be home mid November, and will snap the photos of my adapters...
It would be pretty cool if you could make a few sets,, seems like there are some folks here that would like to have a set .....
Two years ago,, I started to make a few sets,, the phone rang and my personal shop has been locked down for two years as I've traveled...
One thing I'll say about those Johnson adapters, and everything else I bought from John,, It's still here,,, it took a beating,, and it still works !
B _________________ DenCo Engineering Group.. |
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joescoolcustoms Samba Member
Joined: August 08, 2006 Posts: 9054 Location: West By God Virginia
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Posted: Tue Nov 02, 2010 5:40 am Post subject: |
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Here are a few pictures of one of the two NOS sets I have scored from Samba members over the last year.
And here is a link to a build I am doing using one of the sets.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=421262 _________________ Bad News Racing 2018 NORRA 1000 3rd in Class
Best Day Ever Racing 2022 NORRA 1000 2nd in Class and first All Female team to complete the race
Everyone is gifted. Some just do not open the package.
Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone |
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bdkw1 Samba Member
Joined: December 08, 2008 Posts: 798 Location: SoCal
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Posted: Thu Nov 04, 2010 11:20 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for the pictures and measurements Joe.
If and when I do reproduce them, they will not be exact replicas. They will have some minor changes to modernize a few things and fix a couple of things that I think are problem areas. |
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jeepinoffroad04 Samba Member
Joined: January 11, 2008 Posts: 175 Location: Wilson
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Posted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 4:48 pm Post subject: ... |
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okay.. so i'm still confused after this even...
i want the lift.. my car is an around town car and cruise through the woods once in a while for fun, nothing major... i just want lift w/o the tire lean... will the redux boxes bolt to my stock 68 Swing axle trans in the beetle or is this a swap everything? if so what all do you need to do the swap? this stuff is so confusing, and living on the east cost no one really knows much about this type of stuff.. |
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joescoolcustoms Samba Member
Joined: August 08, 2006 Posts: 9054 Location: West By God Virginia
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Posted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 10:28 pm Post subject: Re: ... |
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jeepinoffroad04 wrote: |
okay.. so i'm still confused after this even...
i want the lift.. my car is an around town car and cruise through the woods once in a while for fun, nothing major... i just want lift w/o the tire lean... will the redux boxes bolt to my stock 68 Swing axle trans in the beetle or is this a swap everything? if so what all do you need to do the swap? this stuff is so confusing, and living on the east cost no one really knows much about this type of stuff.. |
Any swing axle will give you the tire lean, either lean in or lean out, that is just the nature of a swing axle.
The answers to the questions you ask are in the first couple of pages of this thread. The conversion is not just a simple bolt in, you will need some sort of adapters to make the bus RGB fit into a beetle.
If you are willing to read, I have done a detailed thread of installing a RGB in my Baja build. Although the Baja is not completly done, the RGB install in the pan is comletely done. But you will have to read the thread and not just look at the pictures.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=421262 _________________ Bad News Racing 2018 NORRA 1000 3rd in Class
Best Day Ever Racing 2022 NORRA 1000 2nd in Class and first All Female team to complete the race
Everyone is gifted. Some just do not open the package.
Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone |
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dickcharlton Samba Member
Joined: February 09, 2004 Posts: 257 Location: Victoria, B.C., Cold Canada
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Posted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 10:30 pm Post subject: Re: ... |
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jeepinoffroad04 wrote: |
okay.. so i'm still confused after this even...
will the redux boxes bolt to my stock 68 Swing axle trans in the beetle or is this a swap everything? if so what all do you need to do the swap? this stuff is so confusing, and living on the east cost no one really knows much about this type of stuff.. |
yes the boxes, axles, and brakes will bolt to your type 1 swing axle trans.
to do this you must turn your ring and pinion around. (I would get someone who knows what they are doing to do this because you have to measure backlash.)
At that point,because the trans is open, it 's a good idea to strength it up a little ie: superdiff, new bearrings and bushings, hardened side covers stiffeners, different gears if you want...
Also you need to either make adapters or buy some to adapt your gear reduction boxes to your spring plates. |
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hotratz Samba Member
Joined: November 13, 2005 Posts: 382 Location: North Bend, Wa.
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Posted: Sat Mar 17, 2012 9:00 pm Post subject: |
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OK, It's been quite awhile since I last posted here but recently got back to my Baja project after finishing a tractor restoration and a CJ-5 build sooooo.
When I left off I needed to figure out how I was going to incorporate shock mounts for the adapters I built. I also wanted to build a truss to stiffen the transaxle forks. The truss will help control any deflection of the forks and help minimize some of the wheel hop. The truss also incorporates the upper shock mount as I had to use the OEM mount to tie the truss in.
Truss fabrication:
Lower shock mount:
Truss and shocks installed:
This shot shows a view of the nut welded to the inner, lower bearing cap and can be pulled to replace the bearing without having to unbolt the adapters or spring plates:
_________________ My Albums
My ZR2 Members Page |
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AZ-BUG Samba Member
Joined: January 27, 2008 Posts: 477 Location: AZ
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Posted: Sat Mar 17, 2012 9:21 pm Post subject: |
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Very nice set-up, great workmanship and design! |
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hotratz Samba Member
Joined: November 13, 2005 Posts: 382 Location: North Bend, Wa.
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Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2012 9:08 am Post subject: |
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williamdenson wrote: |
That caused a problem worse than the first problem ...
They more or less used a wheel bearing idea using roller bearings that needed pre-load in order to work.
They added threads and a nut to the back of the stub axle in order to set the pre-load and used the "plug" they drilled into the reduction case as a way to access the nut for assembly and adjustment ....
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William,
I'm a bit confused after reading over your post about the bearing changes made from the early RGBs to the later. You mentioned the need for bearing preload on the later rgb. I'm assuming you were referring to the lower, outer roller bearing? All the other bearings are ball so they would not need preload. This roller bearing however is not a taper cone/cup type bearing so I'm a little confused how you would preload it if it's required. I'm not finding any information anywhere that explains the preload procedure. Help me out here cuz now I'm agonizing over having to take these boxes apart again. _________________ My Albums
My ZR2 Members Page |
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joescoolcustoms Samba Member
Joined: August 08, 2006 Posts: 9054 Location: West By God Virginia
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Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2012 2:31 pm Post subject: |
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hotratz wrote: |
williamdenson wrote: |
That caused a problem worse than the first problem ...
They more or less used a wheel bearing idea using roller bearings that needed pre-load in order to work.
They added threads and a nut to the back of the stub axle in order to set the pre-load and used the "plug" they drilled into the reduction case as a way to access the nut for assembly and adjustment ....
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William,
I'm a bit confused after reading over your post about the bearing changes made from the early RGBs to the later. You mentioned the need for bearing preload on the later rgb. I'm assuming you were referring to the lower, outer roller bearing? All the other bearings are ball so they would not need preload. This roller bearing however is not a taper cone/cup type bearing so I'm a little confused how you would preload it if it's required. I'm not finding any information anywhere that explains the preload procedure. Help me out here cuz now I'm agonizing over having to take these boxes apart again. |
Don't worry, there is nothing in a late Large Nut RGB that requires pre-loading a bearing.
I think he got mixed up and stated the lower inner bearing needed pre-loaded when he ment that it had a nut that needed tightening, that is why the access plug is there.
Nice design on the shock mounts! Get that thing running! _________________ Bad News Racing 2018 NORRA 1000 3rd in Class
Best Day Ever Racing 2022 NORRA 1000 2nd in Class and first All Female team to complete the race
Everyone is gifted. Some just do not open the package.
Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone |
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hotratz Samba Member
Joined: November 13, 2005 Posts: 382 Location: North Bend, Wa.
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Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2012 2:56 pm Post subject: |
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WHEW That's kinda what I thought. He was talking about the stub axle needing to be torqued. When ever I hear "preload" I always think Timkin type bearings. It was sooo long ago that I rebuilt those RGBs that I wasn't sure what I did or didn't do inside there. I know I'm usually pretty methodic with these things but in my old age I'm never quite as sure of myself as I used to be.
Since I've finished my tractor and my Jeep the Baja is my priority project right now so we should see more timely progress. Lots to do yet. Thanks for the Kudos! _________________ My Albums
My ZR2 Members Page |
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thefladge Samba Member
Joined: July 25, 2005 Posts: 1290 Location: Anaheim, CA
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Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2012 8:25 pm Post subject: |
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While looking through the June 1989 issue of VW Trends, I spotted an article about John Johnson Racing.
At one time they offered a disc brake kit for reduction boxes. There were no details given as to what calipers or rotors were used, just 2 pictures.
_________________ 1957 Vintage Baja Bug.
2110cc engine, 40 IDF Webers on Gene Berg manifolds, Engle 110 cam, Bugpack 40×35.5 Street Pro Heads, W8CC plugs, 12.5 pound Flywheel, Kennedy 1700 pound pressure plate. |
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thefladge Samba Member
Joined: July 25, 2005 Posts: 1290 Location: Anaheim, CA
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Posted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 11:34 am Post subject: |
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My Baja Bug has Bus reduction boxes mounted in the "laydown" position using John Johnson adapters.
For years, I have had to unbolt them from the spring plates and tip them down in order to drain them or fill them with gear oil.
I figure there must be a better way.
When mounted in this position, the fill plug and drain plug are no longer facing up and down. They are now front and back making it impossible to fill to the correct level.
I'm thinking of drilling and tapping a hole in the location shown in the picture. Maybe something small like 1/4 NPT. Something just large enough to fit the spout on the gear oil bottle into.
I'm wondering what other people with laydown reduction boxes are doing. Has anyone else tried this? Will the hole weaken the outer half of the reduction box?
_________________ 1957 Vintage Baja Bug.
2110cc engine, 40 IDF Webers on Gene Berg manifolds, Engle 110 cam, Bugpack 40×35.5 Street Pro Heads, W8CC plugs, 12.5 pound Flywheel, Kennedy 1700 pound pressure plate. |
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joescoolcustoms Samba Member
Joined: August 08, 2006 Posts: 9054 Location: West By God Virginia
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Posted: Sun Jul 22, 2012 1:10 pm Post subject: |
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So, I was cruising the FleeceBay and stumbled across a set of RGB's that have been converted to a U-Joint yoke. Wow! Being the sloppy sniper that I am, I instantly bid on them in my excitment, then started to worry that I had jumped the gun and some one will wait and snipe me out of them. So, being that smart sniper, I ran my bid way up to what was most likely more than what they are worth, (My MO is to buy high, hold onto for years and then sell low).
To My amazement, no one bid on them and I have a set of RGB's that I can now think up a project to build around, (my second MO is to buy one part and dream up some project that the part can fit on).
I am told that the yoke is from a IRS Chevy Corvair and the one remaining bracket is to adapt to a Corvair. I am thinking a mild Baja, with a SSC 3.88 IRS and into these small nut RGB's with a custom made tubular trailing arm that this RGB will bolt onto. Eventually. _________________ Bad News Racing 2018 NORRA 1000 3rd in Class
Best Day Ever Racing 2022 NORRA 1000 2nd in Class and first All Female team to complete the race
Everyone is gifted. Some just do not open the package.
Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone |
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thefladge Samba Member
Joined: July 25, 2005 Posts: 1290 Location: Anaheim, CA
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Posted: Tue Jul 24, 2012 7:40 pm Post subject: |
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I found this video of a guy demonstrating reduction box wheel hop in a Baja Bug.
Link
This guy appears to have IRS reduction boxes like some of the Brazilian Buses had:
Link
_________________ 1957 Vintage Baja Bug.
2110cc engine, 40 IDF Webers on Gene Berg manifolds, Engle 110 cam, Bugpack 40×35.5 Street Pro Heads, W8CC plugs, 12.5 pound Flywheel, Kennedy 1700 pound pressure plate. |
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BL3Manx Samba Member
Joined: August 29, 2006 Posts: 6767 Location: Northern California
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Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 7:23 am Post subject: |
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I'm picking up a big nut transaxle package tomorrow to put in a Tow'd. I have a question, what would anyone's thoughts be about using Bugzyla RGB adapters along with Atomwerks 2 1/2" raised spring plates?
I can see the Bugzyla adapters appear to be designed for notched spring plates which rest at a steeper downward angle than stock and the adapter mounts the RGBs at an angle to the spring plate. So maybe an adapter similar to the Bugzyla design but for a Atomwerk raised plate, which intersects the RGB approximately perpendicular?
I also think that wheel hop might be caused by the springplate flexing, bowing, loading and unloading under acceleration and that thicker springplate steel, like what Sway A Way uses for their heavy duty spring plates, might take care of the wheel hop issue.
The pictures below are just for illustration, they're not mine
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joescoolcustoms Samba Member
Joined: August 08, 2006 Posts: 9054 Location: West By God Virginia
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Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 6:41 pm Post subject: |
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I have wondered if that is where Atomic got the idea to produce the drop plates. They look really similar to a set of drop plates I had for adapting the RGB into a Type 1.
The thicker plates may help some of the hopping, but I doubt it. The Splitty bus has a seriously thick spring plate that does not warp under load and they still hop. The may reason they hop is the instant center of the RGB set up. The John Johnson no hop kit changes that instant center and eliminates the hopping. Laying them down also changes the instant center having the same positive resulting effect. _________________ Bad News Racing 2018 NORRA 1000 3rd in Class
Best Day Ever Racing 2022 NORRA 1000 2nd in Class and first All Female team to complete the race
Everyone is gifted. Some just do not open the package.
Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone |
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BL3Manx Samba Member
Joined: August 29, 2006 Posts: 6767 Location: Northern California
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Posted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 9:53 pm Post subject: |
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joescoolcustoms wrote: |
bdkw1 wrote: |
Does anybody with the no hop kit have the dimensions for the mounting tabs off the torsion housing?
When I got My kit it didn't come with them. I made mine after some quick calculations. Unfortunately I was off a little The rear lifted under acceleration and was really harsh off road under throttle. I have since moved the mounting points down 2". It actually squats a little on the street and feels very neutral off road. Rear suspension action is MUCH better. |
Sorry for the delay, just busy.
The two plates that weld to the torsion housing are two different steps off of the torsion housing. This accomodates the twisted mount because of the offset coming from the lower part of the RGB. One mount is 2 1/4 inch from the torsion to the CL of the bolt hole. The other is 2 3/8 inch.
The strut rod is 12 1/2 inches CL to CL of the bolt holes. Here are some pictures.
I have not yet driven it, so I cannot confirm without a doubt that the hopping is eliminated. Would not be a hard kit to copy. |
bdkw1 wrote: |
Thank you very much! Thats exactly what I was looking for. My first set was about 1-7/8" and the new set is about 2-3/4" , So I'm a little farther down. Yours should be a little more neutral on the street. With the shorter tabs mine would still lift, no hop though, just lift. With the longer tabs it actually squats just a little......... The perfect drag set-up LOL......
Also nice to know My strut rods are still the right length after I put the uni-balls on them. |
I just picked up a complete JJR No Hop set up today. Like bdkw's its missing the torsion housing tabs. I'll use the dimensions Joe posted to make some.
I have the earlier round control rods and will also try to replace the worn out bushings with the spherical type.
Thanks for the old post |
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