Bodywork How To's

[Kiper]

[Kiper]

It took me the better part of six months to get this 69 convertible nice. It needed so much work but the fit and finish is really nice. Notice how the bottom of the fenders fit the rear apron. Those are the details that most people miss. Even the underside of the decklid was color sanded and buffed.

_________________
I am Matt K.

[Chickensoup]

Hello, i will be working on my front quarter panel on my 65 beetle and was wondering if anyone has any pictures of them fixing theirs? Here’s what mine looks like,

I tried using the glue body puller but i could get enough grip. So, here’s what I’m thinking,

1. Use a stud gun or weld nails the pull out any of the big dents should around the fender mounting surface.
2. Then remove the quarter panel start hammering away.
3. Use a shrinking disk to remove and dramatically large high spots.
4. Use a good fender to double check my work and make sure everything lines up well.
5. Go over any imperfections with the hammer and dolly and shrinking disc again.
6. Re-weld quarter panel to car.
7. Done
_________________
-'85 c10 5.3 LS, 222 cam, long tubes, x pipe, 3 inch spin tech's
-'05 B5.5 TDI Wagon 17in sport rims ;EGR + BSM + ASV Delete, Stage-2 Tune, straight pipe
'65 Tourist Delivery Build
'66 RIP
'69 RIP
Hosea 4:6 "My people are destroyed for lack of knowledge"

[viiking]

I did a similar repair to you but alas don't have before or after photos. As you know it is impossible to get a dolly down low inside that quarter panel. I followed a similar process to what you are suggesting.

Using your numbering.

1. Use a stud gun or weld nails the pull out any of the big dents should around the fender mounting surface.

Yes. I used a cheap slide hammer which you actually screw into the dented area. It leaves a hole, but a zap with the MIG resolves that. It quickly gets you back into shape and preferably a crowned area that you can tap down from the outside.

2. Then remove the quarter panel start hammering away.

No. Don't do it. You will actually find in my opinion more problems with distortion and shrinkage when you weld the piece back on. Then you are back in the same position as you are now. I tried to cut out a bad section of my quarter panel only to find when I welded it in, even though I took my time and allowed everything to cool properly that I had a big divot which I found difficult to remove. Buy yourself a body spoon. It lets you get down almost to the bottom of the quarter panel near the door. The heavier the spoon the more easy is it for you to tap down the high spots created by the stud puller or slide hammer. I bought one like this and was able to use it to lever out the dents low down and I could use the hammer to get it pretty straight. One like this is what I bought.


https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=https%3A%2F%2...egUIARDHAQ

3. Use a shrinking disk to remove any dramatically large high spots.

Yes. Plenty of passes, followed by hammer and dolly. Repeat until flat

4. Use a good fender to double check my work and make sure everything lines up well.

Buy yourself a contour gauge and use this to check the opposite fender and quarter panel. If you are clever enough you can use the contour gauge to make yourself a complete template of the area using strong cardboard or some thin ply.

5. Go over any imperfections with the hammer and dolly and shrinking disc again.
Yes

6. Re-weld quarter panel to car.

Again, don't do it.

7. Done
_________________
1968 1500 RHD Lotus White Beetle since birth. In the hospital for major surgery
1966 Lancia Flavia Pininfarina Coupe - in the waiting room
Discharged: 1983 Vanagon, 1974 1800 Microbus,1968 Low Light,1968 Type 3