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63ziggy Samba Member

Joined: June 19, 2005 Posts: 1100 Location: The Woodlands, Texas
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Posted: Mon Nov 13, 2006 5:41 pm Post subject: Tire sizes and lift kits questions |
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I currently am restoring a 74 Thing. I want a offroad look. It is all stock now with stock 14" wheels.
I was wondering if anyone can shed some light on what size tires may fit with various lifts.
I would likeat least some 30-31" in rear with narrow fronts.
what would it take to make that fit front and rear?
3" body lift? what size would fit?
2 or 3" raised spindles in front? what would fit?
I have been told to reindex the rear 2 notches. However, I have read about alignment problems created by doing that.
How much lift would going 1 notch do?
How about 2 notches?
Any insight to tire and wheel combination along with lift would be great. It is mainly show and will not see a whole lot of offroad.
Thanks in advance |
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Ferretkona Samba Member

Joined: December 03, 2005 Posts: 1306 Location: Columbia, CA
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Posted: Mon Nov 13, 2006 8:36 pm Post subject: |
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I am running 215/75/15's on Empi rims. They are only 28" high. It sits about 14" off the ground. Stock set up other than the tires.
There is a thread already on tire set up vs. modifications. Not that old it might even be on the first page still.
To mount 30" plus tires I think you will need the aftermarket fenders that are higher.
You mention a body lift here and on your previous thread, I am not sure there is a body lift available like Baja bugs have. Your changes will probably be fenders and suspension. You will probably need to change your rearend ratio and or engine size as well to get the car moving. Drum brakes may not have much stopping power with the larger tires, disc brakes are available as well.
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Towel Rail Horizontally Opposed

Joined: April 15, 2005 Posts: 4622 Location: SE CR IA US NA PE
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Posted: Mon Nov 13, 2006 9:47 pm Post subject: |
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You'll want to check the Off-Road forum as well. The Thing suspension is like a Beetle suspension that's been lifted 2".
When I do my restoration this winter, I'll be welding adjusters into the front beam, just in case I want to raise it a little for the new tires -- 7.0x15 tires mounted on Beetle wheels.  _________________ 1974 Thing -- under the knife
1967 Beetle -- spring/summer/fall driver
1996 Subaru OBW (EJ22, 5-speed, AWD) -- winter car, 3-seasons "don't feel like biking today" car
049 > 070 > 053 > 009 |
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JohnF Samba Member

Joined: March 07, 2005 Posts: 28 Location: Phoenix, Az.
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Posted: Wed Nov 29, 2006 10:41 am Post subject: |
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You need to be careful putting larger diameter tires on without suspension or fender mods. I was running 215-75r15's on spoked wheels and the tires hit the headlight buckets on serious compression. The 7.00-15's you are looking at are about 29 to 30 inches in diameter which is larger than what I am was running and with any serious off roading will do some damage to the headlights. I just removed my 15" spoked wheels and put a set of Mickey Thompson Mini-Mags on stock 15" wheels. These are something like 27 inch dia but are listed as "off road only" tires. They work well except, with the stock wheels, they hit the pan on full lock turns, I'll adjust this with the steering stops on the pitman arm. My major problem off road with the old setup was the effort needed to turn the wheel in tight situations. I sometimes had to stop and do 2 point turns because of the amount of "horsepower" it took to turn the offset wheels/tire combo. Also, cruising down a wash I had to be really careful not to snag a berm or edge because the wheel would rip out of my grip and spin itself to the lock on one side or the other usually jamming a thumb in the process and, sometimes, bending a tie-rod.
If you're not planning on using your Thing off road much it will be fine with the combo you mentioned but just be aware of the clearance problems. Another option is lifted Thing spindles sold by SoCal Imports
JohnF |
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Towel Rail Horizontally Opposed

Joined: April 15, 2005 Posts: 4622 Location: SE CR IA US NA PE
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Posted: Wed Nov 29, 2006 10:21 pm Post subject: |
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Yup, I've been planning it out: new engine will be a mild 1776 with dual carbs, new trans will have a 4.37 R&P to counteract the larger tires, front beam will be adjustible for an extra inch or two, and I have a newer steering box waiting to go in.
I didn't see the lifted Thing spindles on the SoCal page, but those can always be made if need be.  _________________ 1974 Thing -- under the knife
1967 Beetle -- spring/summer/fall driver
1996 Subaru OBW (EJ22, 5-speed, AWD) -- winter car, 3-seasons "don't feel like biking today" car
049 > 070 > 053 > 009 |
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JohnF Samba Member

Joined: March 07, 2005 Posts: 28 Location: Phoenix, Az.
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Posted: Thu Nov 30, 2006 6:17 am Post subject: |
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Towel Rail wrote: |
Yup, I've been planning it out: new engine will be a mild 1776 with dual carbs, new trans will have a 4.37 R&P to counteract the larger tires, front beam will be adjustible for an extra inch or two, and I have a newer steering box waiting to go in.
I didn't see the lifted Thing spindles on the SoCal page, but those can always be made if need be.  |
That's almost the exact setup I have only with a single progressive carb. 4:37 make it nice for putting in the rough stuff, I would have prefered 4:86 but these 4:37's popped up for a good price.
You have to call and ask about the raised Thing spindles, last I talked to them they were $250. with a $150. core.
JohnF |
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mattt Samba Member
Joined: January 20, 2004 Posts: 1144
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Posted: Wed Dec 13, 2006 12:01 am Post subject: |
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To be able to comfortably run a 30-31" tire, I would plan on the following.....
have adjusters installed(better) in the front beam or cut/turn beam(OK)
re-index the rear torsions
SoCal Imports front pre-runner fenders
body lift, 3" is the only option here
930 CV joint setup or you will often hear your 181 joints clicking
all of this at a minimum or you will have tire contacting fender often. If you compromise and run a 29"(235/75-15) or smaller tire, you can get by with less. I would stay away from the welded/raised spindles as I have serious reservations about their strength/integrity. Wouldnt run them on mine. |
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racer_dude Samba Member
Joined: May 11, 2006 Posts: 99 Location: Oak Hills, CA
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Posted: Sun Dec 31, 2006 2:06 pm Post subject: |
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from previous friend's things stock front fenders will work for the most part with minimum rubbing while turning and hitting bumps with a 15x700 front tire. i am personally going to run 15x700's with a cut and turned beam with stock size fiberglass front fenders and wide rear fiberglass. still undecided on 31" or 33" rear's.
my racecar runs 15x700 fronts and 33x9.50x15 rears, and i put the spares on my thing with no lift and no fenders (didnt have them yet) and everything worked fine with rub on the inner fender in the front due to the steering stops not stopping at what should of been full lock to the left. |
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saddlesore1 Samba Member
Joined: November 20, 2006 Posts: 548
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Posted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 5:03 pm Post subject: |
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I am in the midst of doing exactly what your are talking about. I just installed the 3" lift and got my steering situated. If you want ideas on that let me know. One problem with things is that the rear trailing arms are not centered in the rear wheel wells. So. if you put the body lift on and put a set of 15" wheels with 31"s or even 33"'s They will rub on the front of the rear wheel well. You are better off getting a set of 1"X Stock rear trailing arms. This will center a 31" tire and with X stock you will not need to widen the rear fenders.
With the front I suggest cut and turn your front end.
Regards,
Saddlesore |
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Spezialist Banned
Joined: July 01, 2005 Posts: 1941
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Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 12:41 pm Post subject: |
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mattt wrote: |
To be able to comfortably run a 30-31" tire, I would plan on the following.....
have adjusters installed(better) in the front beam or cut/turn beam(OK)
re-index the rear torsions
SoCal Imports front pre-runner fenders
body lift, 3" is the only option here
930 CV joint setup or you will often hear your 181 joints clicking
all of this at a minimum or you will have tire contacting fender often. If you compromise and run a 29"(235/75-15) or smaller tire, you can get by with less. I would stay away from the welded/raised spindles as I have serious reservations about their strength/integrity. Wouldnt run them on mine. |
We're running 30x 9.50x 15 BFG's and we need to take up rear a wee bit, looks like I may have to look into the 930 option as soon as I do that. We have a cut @turned ft end , and an adjustable rear that is maxxed out, I hope the p/o only put the splines in with out preload, so I can load it up! _________________
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74 Cosa Samba Member
Joined: June 06, 2006 Posts: 535 Location: The Midwest
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Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 3:10 pm Post subject: Tires |
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I'm running BF Goodrich 205 70/15 which are 26" tall. No clearance issue with no lift kit. |
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Spezialist Banned
Joined: July 01, 2005 Posts: 1941
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Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 3:31 pm Post subject: |
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Ziggy, the front is fine. Cut and turned and "adjusters". With the "cut and turn" I think its a must to have adjusters to be able to assemble at this height " Ball joint" hangs up with out I imagine. I'm not going for a body lift due to enormous body hang of a thing already{the rocker}. This is a daily driver. Anyway , my car has an adjustable spring plate kit on the rear. tires in picture have been replaced with about the same size, The rear is next issue. I want a straight car _________________
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Captain Spalding Samba Member

Joined: February 19, 2005 Posts: 2519 Location: . . . in denial.
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Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 9:12 pm Post subject: |
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spezialist wrote: |
. . . I'm not going for a body lift due to enormous body hang of a thing already{the rocker}. This is a daily driver . . . |
Smart move. Aside from the entry/egress issue, a body lift isn't meant to be a remedy for larger tires. It's supposed to accomodate greater suspension travel. So, suspension lift first, body lift if required after. Besides, for off-road you want the pan off the ground for greater ground clearance. |
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Thingggg Samba Member
Joined: June 30, 2004 Posts: 353
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Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2007 4:15 pm Post subject: |
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Up Yer Bug has a Thing lift kit--find a dealer by calling them.
760-726-0130 |
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Go-SpeedRacer Samba Member

Joined: December 31, 2006 Posts: 79
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Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2007 6:21 pm Post subject: |
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Andy is the guy at Up yers, I just got my lift a week ago, $450 for lift + $50 for shipping, so $500 even.
While we are on the subject of this, what do y'all think is the ideal tire size, 32" or 33" and what manufacture, assuming 15" rims. I have already switched my rear trailing arms over to the 944 ones, so got that headache out of the way, but still have been troubled by what to go with on tires and rims. Also, now that I am thinking of it, what rear shock package is best? Wish I could squeeze some Rancho looking shocks under the rear. |
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thingpilot Samba Member
Joined: December 29, 2006 Posts: 26 Location: No. Calif
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Posted: Tue Mar 06, 2007 12:58 am Post subject: trailing arms |
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Ive heard two diferent figures on how much longer rear trailing arms need to be to get the wheel centered...1 inch and 1 1/2 inches ??? does anyone know for sure?? Im in the process of upgrading my thing suspension. Ive got the wider, taller fibergalss front fenders and the wider rear fiberglass fenders on and the 3 inch body lift. How wide should I go in the rear to fill these fenders? what about the front end? how much wider should I go. Ive got a 12 over coil over shock front beam with 4 inch longer trailing arms and king kong spindles. was planning on narrowing it to whatever width will clear the fenders throughout the travel. Will also have to subframe it out in the front to get the front wheel back into the center of fenders. any info would be helpful, problems im maybe not forseeing too. anything would be better than having to figure it all out by myself. Thanks |
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surfarii Samba Member

Joined: November 26, 2006 Posts: 307 Location: Hawaii
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Posted: Tue Mar 06, 2007 1:48 am Post subject: Re: trailing arms |
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[quote="thingpilot"]Ive heard two diferent figures on how much longer rear trailing arms need to be to get the wheel centered...1 inch and 1 1/2 inches ??? does anyone know for sure?? [quote]
The answer is both,and yes I do" know for sure" the rear trailing arm swings in a arc around the torsion housing. The more you preload your spring the more more height you get however the more height you get the closer the tire gets to the front of the rear fender. At ride height it looks wrong or off centered favoring the front of the car. With 1" longer than stock arms the tire ,under compression will be centered in the wheel well with the stock fender being the limit. In other words you would set your Jounce stop to prevent the big tire from wiping out your stock fender. The 1" arms dont quite look centered at ride height though they are the cheaper/ easy to find option. I had 1 1/2" arms made so it looks centered at ride height but under compresion the tire favors the rear of the wheel well but not enough to be a problem. With a body lift , wider fenders and a custom rear suspension to match the 12" front coil overs your going to need the min. of 1 1/2 . Keep in mind that means custom shock mounts Custom Jounce stops Modifying emergancy break cables if your running drums. Reworking brake lines . Possible 930 CV's and longer axles . I have a set of Race preped CV's And sway away axles if you get to that point. Your wheel / tire choice and offset is a part of the equation also . |
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thingpilot Samba Member
Joined: December 29, 2006 Posts: 26 Location: No. Calif
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Posted: Tue Mar 06, 2007 6:10 am Post subject: |
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ok, got it , thanks.. I will be running a 091 trans with 930 cv's .Got disc brakes all around and will be subframing the entire car. I want to use beard seats in front with a beard bench in the rear, custom made to the widest possible size that will fit. Id also like to find some used side windows, the actual glass ones the thing shop sells, ( I know that will probably not happen. so Ill probably have to get new ones). what length and width arms are the axles you have set up for and what did you want for the axles and Cv's...My email is [email protected] |
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Towel Rail Horizontally Opposed

Joined: April 15, 2005 Posts: 4622 Location: SE CR IA US NA PE
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Posted: Tue Mar 06, 2007 6:51 am Post subject: |
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Go-SpeedRacer wrote: |
While we are on the subject of this, what do y'all think is the ideal tire size, 32" or 33" and what manufacture, assuming 15" rims. |
A stock trans and engine have a tough time with any tire over 29-30". Of course, with an 091 and a big engine, no problem. Try asking around in the Off-Road section, too. _________________ 1974 Thing -- under the knife
1967 Beetle -- spring/summer/fall driver
1996 Subaru OBW (EJ22, 5-speed, AWD) -- winter car, 3-seasons "don't feel like biking today" car
049 > 070 > 053 > 009 |
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Spezialist Banned
Joined: July 01, 2005 Posts: 1941
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Posted: Tue Mar 06, 2007 11:50 am Post subject: Re: trailing arms |
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[quote="surfarii"][quote="thingpilot"]Ive heard two diferent figures on how much longer rear trailing arms need to be to get the wheel centered...1 inch and 1 1/2 inches ??? does anyone know for sure??
Quote: |
The answer is both,and yes I do" know for sure" the rear trailing arm swings in a arc around the torsion housing. The more you preload your spring the more more height you get however the more height you get the closer the tire gets to the front of the rear fender. At ride height it looks wrong or off centered favoring the front of the car. With 1" longer than stock arms the tire ,under compression will be centered in the wheel well with the stock fender being the limit. In other words you would set your Jounce stop to prevent the big tire from wiping out your stock fender. The 1" arms dont quite look centered at ride height though they are the cheaper/ easy to find option. I had 1 1/2" arms made so it looks centered at ride height but under compresion the tire favors the rear of the wheel well but not enough to be a problem. With a body lift , wider fenders and a custom rear suspension to match the 12" front coil overs your going to need the min. of 1 1/2 . Keep in mind that means custom shock mounts Custom Jounce stops Modifying emergancy break cables if your running drums. Reworking brake lines . Possible 930 CV's and longer axles . I have a set of Race preped CV's And sway away axles if you get to that point. Your wheel / tire choice and offset is a part of the equation also . |
Thanks for that bit of information, this is my first attack of the raising of a car. Back in the day all I did was lower.
Has anyone anyone ever tried bolting two short cv axles together to make a sick articulated axle? _________________
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