windshield fogging bad. Ideas? Questions.

[PDXpaulie]

First, its really wet here in the PacNW, though it was dry today. During the historic rains last Thursday, I was unable to control the fog on my windshield without constantly working a squeegee. I discovered along the way that the fog wasn't wiping off, even when I switched to cloth. Scary. Pulled off and freaked out a bit.
Anyway, I figure my windshield is separating (perma-fog around the edges), so there's a replacement need. Leads me to question 1... Anyone have a reliable source for a reasonably priced new windshield in the Portland OR area?

This all started when I kicked on the Atwood blower (yeah, I know its a patch, that's part of this point) and it blew steam onto my windshield forcing the squeegee into my hand. Obviously, the bilge-blower thing was supposed to improve the _dry_ air flow into my wind screen not quicken the fogging rate.
So, I got the last bits of what I believe I need to return-to-stock the rear end (FIF) of the heating system after the PO butchery. The last bits are the heat vent tubes that run between the heat exchangers and the flapper boxes. It is my hope that replacing the type4 tubes with type2 tubes will eliminate the leaks.
Please point out where my thinking has gone astray. I have read testimony from folks that say that the stock system, when sealed properly will actually produce sufficient force of air to defrost a windshield. Is this really true? I mean, I understand that if I get the heat working right, (capturing all the heat) it will melt my blower, but will it really clear my windshield? If not, I'll be needing something to boost the output. Hi-temp tolerant ideas welcome.
Semi-related, is there a diagram out there somewhere that illustrates the fresh air routing at the front of the bus?
_________________
1972 Westy (hapy):
engine: ALH TDI - in process
suspension: KONI shocks, upgraded front swaybar, new ball joints
other: '79 westy interior (orig front seats).

[VDubTech]

My '74 Riviera has a fairly leaky system, from the heat exchangers right up to the heat tube....and she isn't exactly air tight either, but t produces enough heat to not only keep the windsheild defrosted, but enough to actually warm the inside of the Bus on a longer trip. If I could get just the small leaks I have sealed up and insulate the heat tube, I bet I could almost double the temp of the outcoming air. The stock heat system works just fine.

[ChiTwnVW]

I second that. I don't have an air tight system, but it heats the interior 20 to 30 degrees warmer than the outside and clears the windshield.

[IFBwax]

Hey Paulie.. yeah both my buses heat enough to keep the windshield fog free, though sometimes it takes a while. Sometimes I open up the windwing just a tad to blow the fog off the windshield.

Call Tom's autobody to ask him where you could get a new windshield installed. He's a good guy who redid my green bus.

503 774 1756.
_________________
Owner of: "The Party Pickle" (a 1979 2 Liter FI "Raby Camper Special" Sage Green Westy Campmobile) & "Charlie Brown" (a 1979 2 Liter FI "Rob Grant Rebuild" Agate Brown/Dakota Beige Station Wagon)


www.partypickle.blogspot.com

[busdaddy]

The stock heater can keep up with most fogging situations.

It sounds like your bus has some major water leaks making the interior too moist and humid.
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[barefootwestie]

Until you get the problem solved, you can purchase a product called AntiFog, I think, from your local discount or auto store. It is made by Rain-X and I have used it before.
_________________
My Bus Restoration Blog
https://myvolkswagenbus.com/

1973 Westfalia
"Getting better....one repair at a time."

Other VW's owned through the years, in no particular order:
'67 Beetle,
'67 Ghia Hardtop,
'72 Ghia Convertible,
'72 Westfalia

[Mark]

[Blaubus]

anti fogs are made with silicone, so be sure you dont have plans to put your bus interior soon

[PDXpaulie]

thanks for all the replies.

Regarding the moisture, yeah, I need a new rear hatch seal, and the drivers door plastic was just replaced a couple of weeks ago. I may have botched that. The interior is dry except the carpet near the drivers door, so I'm going to refocus on that. The bad rear hatch seal is allowing water to wick up into the rear hatch door, so I've got a problem there I need to address.

On the stock heat, thanks for the testimonies. I'm going to get the heat tubes in, and seal up the connections at the front end under the cab floor to see if I can get that kind of air volume. I must have a leak, and a pretty bad one, somewhere.

new windshield... I originally just wanted the glass. My thinking was that if I'm going to pop the windshield out, I should probably address the surface rust at the seal so it doesn't become a bigger problem. Then again, if I can pop the old glass out and fix the rust, I could have a professional outfit get the new glass in (with a new seal, of course). Has anyone tried MSGlass or those other places? I'll call Tom regardless.

Thanks again. a little validation goes a long way.
_________________
1972 Westy (hapy):
engine: ALH TDI - in process
suspension: KONI shocks, upgraded front swaybar, new ball joints
other: '79 westy interior (orig front seats).

[Oil Phil-M]

I've tried the anti-fog stuff before and although it kept the glass fog free it gave it a wierd distored film that was difficult to see out of especially at night in the rain so i never used it again. Pick up a squeegee (sp?) kid at the first intersection and put them to work till the hot air is flowing.

Rain-X on the outside of all of the glass OTOH is magic. Reapply at least once a month or before a road trip you can almost get by without using the wipers.

[Randy in Maine]

If you have the sliding slots in the front doors, having them open will improve the effiency of the defroster also. Allowing unheated air in via the blue dash levers can also help with defogging.

[Liveonjg]

[westy78]

Paulie, give Ashley at Always V-Dub a call. He use to have a whole crate of OEM VW windshields, PPG. I got mine there about three years ago so he may not have any left by now. If I remember correctly it was about $170 for R&R of the glass including the windshield. They can also address the rust while they are there but be prepared for some sticker shock. Ashley aint exactly cheap but sometimes he has the part you need when no one else does.

http://www.always-v-dub.com/
_________________
Jasan C.
'78 Westy

VW Campmobile, it goes on vacation with you.

[Phyllis]

The wing windows work great, and if that is not enough open up the vent located near the floor. Hey... you can always put on a coat and roll all of the windows down. That also seems to the trick.
_________________
1971 Deluxe Transporter "Winston"
1970 Westy Weekender "Cornelius"
Andrew

[PDXpaulie]

[Wildthings]

Your glass man should have a special primer to treat the rusted metal of the windshield frame. You might scrape off the loose rust and then let them treat the remaining rust and metal with their stuff. It will probably work as well or better than anything you can put on, especially at this time of year.

[NASkeet]

[PDXpaulie]

[nodrenim]

When you get the old windshield out scrape the loose rust away and paint with POR 15, great product, stops rust in it's tracks. I use a small 12 volt clamp on fan, clamped to my rear view mirror, aimed at the windshield to clear away the fog. Helps a bunch. In the summer just point fan in your direction and cool yourself! They are available at Wally World, Auto Zone, Advance Auto etc. Hope this helps!

[NASkeet]