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Where to get protective sheath for accelerator cable?
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Major Woody
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 12:59 am    Post subject: Where to get protective sheath for accelerator cable? Reply with quote

I am in need of 111 721 551, the 670 MM long black plastic protective sheath covering the accelerator cable as it passes through space over the transaxle.

Wolfsburg West does not list it on their site.

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks!
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gatorwyatt
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 4:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

if you are refering to the almost bowden tube for the accelerator i got mine from bfy they used part no. 131 721 551. it cost 15.00.
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 7:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Home depot,
nylon water pipe (can't remember diameter) 3/8"
Super cheap and works great.
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 7:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm using a bicycle brake cable "cover" on the Dormy! Razz
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 8:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Were those used on Split Buses?

I like them but I have never seen one on a "original" Split-screen Bus.
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Lind
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 9:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

EverettB wrote:
Were those used on Split Buses?

I like them but I have never seen one on a "original" Split-screen Bus.

my 8-62 parts list indicates that they showed up on buses in 2-61. I believe that there was also a little wire loop that bolted to the tranny to guide the accellerator tube at some point, but I don't know the year spread on it.
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Major Woody
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 9:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I will look again for a little wire loop. Pretty dark down there. I did try pulling on the remainder of the sheath and it would not move, so perhaps there is something holding it in place.

These get real brittle over time.

Using the 131 prefix, I found that both WW and CIP have the tube. CIP has it for $1 less and free shipping, but that is still $19 for a simple plastic tube. It also may not be long enough at 600 MM--the type 2 parts list says it should be 670MM. At 600MM, it is listed as fitting bug and Ghia.

I think I will use plumbing tube. That is actually quite close to what was there originally.


Last edited by Major Woody on Tue Jan 02, 2007 9:55 am; edited 1 time in total
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Lind
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 9:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Major Woody wrote:
I will look again for a little wire loop. Pretty dark down there. I did try pulling on the remainder of the sheath and it would not move, so perhaps there is something holding it in place.

These get real brittle over time.

I meant to say the wire loop guided the accellerator cable, not the accellerator cable tube. the wire loop bolts to the top of the tranny using on of the side cover bolts. I believe it might be earlier than the tube.

any plastic sheathing will work. I have even used old fuel line on VWs that had nothing. the accesslerator cable will saw into the tranny case if there is nothing to prevent it from doing that.
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hazetguy
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 10:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah, later splits used the bowden tube type cable sleeve. the tube is similar to the bowden tube for the choke, fuel reserve, and clutch cable, in that it is a metal coil protected by a ruber/plastic cover. one end fits on the metal guide tube for the accel cable, near the front of the transmission, and the other end has a trumpet like end on it where it fits on the metal accel guide tube that fits through the fan shroud.
the part number is a beetle number (111 721 551), but in the parts book it also mentions that it needs to be shortened to 670mm. i believe the original length of the 111 sleeve is about 690mm.
i have come across various lengths of this bowden tubes. i have always found that regardless of which one i use, it needs to be shortened. if it remains long, there is a significant "bow" in it and often it is too much and makes the cable too short to reach the carb.
sometimes i get lucky and one of the ends comes off the tube, and then i can trim it there, but the ends are crimped on, so many times they are difficult to remove without damaging the ends.
i cut about a 20mm section out of the center of the tube, and then tape it back together, with alot of electrical tape. this has worked well for me for many different busses, and i put them on all my busses.
sleeves can be found really cheap at shows, because most times people don't know or care what they are.
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Major Woody
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 10:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jon,
I did not see any sort of metal lining in the sheath on the 67, like the choke cable on my oval or the bowden cable on Eberspacher. This tube was just thin black plastic, and very smooth like nylon, with no metal end (at least not on the engine side of the tube). Snapped right in the center.

I'll watch for them at swaps. I'd like to have an original one eventually.
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 10:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lind wrote:
EverettB wrote:
Were those used on Split Buses?

I like them but I have never seen one on a "original" Split-screen Bus.

my 8-62 parts list indicates that they showed up on buses in 2-61. I believe that there was also a little wire loop that bolted to the tranny to guide the accellerator tube at some point, but I don't know the year spread on it.


Cool. I'm surprised it's missing from my low mileage Bus but I guess it's a common thing to lose.
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 11:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Major Woody wrote:
Jon,
I did not see any sort of metal lining in the sheath on the 67, like the choke cable on my oval or the bowden cable on Eberspacher. This tube was just thin black plastic, and very smooth like nylon, with no metal end (at least not on the engine side of the tube). Snapped right in the center.

I'll watch for them at swaps. I'd like to have an original one eventually.


All the ones I have are as Jon described.
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Major Woody
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 11:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Perhaps mine had been replaced previously. I will look more closely at the front end of it when the trans is out. I'll try to take pics as well.

This bus has only 58k on it and had not been driven since 1984, so I assumed the tube was OG.
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 12:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I too put them in everything I work on. I've had no problem getting the crimped ends to come off, trim a bit, and put the crimped end back on.
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Major Woody
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 12:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Greg, what do you do--install the engine and then adjust the tube length with it in place, or do you just measure to 670mm and cut?

The new VW of Mexico ones for sale all appear to be too short.
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 3:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

campingbox wrote:
I too put them in everything I work on. I've had no problem getting the crimped ends to come off, trim a bit, and put the crimped end back on.


how?
and how do you re-crimp it when you are done?
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BryanM
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 4:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used a peice of fuel line as a temp untill I got the right peice, which I still havent gotten yet. Just a suggestion untill the proper part is found.
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 7:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Major Woody wrote:
Greg, what do you do--install the engine and then adjust the tube length with it in place, or do you just measure to 670mm and cut?

The new VW of Mexico ones for sale all appear to be too short.


I install the engine and fit the accel. bowden tube with the motor in place. A little bend in it is alright (1") as long as the accell cable still reaches the carb.
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 7:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hazetguy wrote:
campingbox wrote:
I too put them in everything I work on. I've had no problem getting the crimped ends to come off, trim a bit, and put the crimped end back on.


how?
and how do you re-crimp it when you are done?


I usually squirt some spray lube in there and uncrimp them with some pliers.....squeezing and turning to remove it. Cut the cable to size, reshape the end and install it. Recrimp it with some pliers. It's a piece of cake.
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 7:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

campingbox wrote:
hazetguy wrote:
campingbox wrote:
I too put them in everything I work on. I've had no problem getting the crimped ends to come off, trim a bit, and put the crimped end back on.


how?
and how do you re-crimp it when you are done?


I usually squirt some spray lube in there and uncrimp them with some pliers.....squeezing and turning to remove it. Cut the cable to size, reshape the end and install it. Recrimp it with some pliers. It's a piece of cake.

or if the accel cable is too long, like using a late cable in a bd, you can shim the bowden tube where it slides onto the spout coming out of the body. I think this had to be done on the '54 baja sc.
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