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Who sells a crank & flywheel that match?
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Clyde Maddox
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2007 12:03 pm    Post subject: Who sells a crank & flywheel that match? Reply with quote

I've got a pair bought from the same company which will not go together. I taper filed the holes which do not match, so they start, but it will not still mate completely. I'm now working on pulling 4 of the dowels, and leaving the ones that match the original flywheel pattern (hopefully).

Can someone please tell me of a company that will sell a set that is reamed so they match.
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Ann Mezger
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2007 12:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Call Cranky Bob at DeMello Machine. (aka DMS)
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vwracerdave
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2007 12:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You do know that 1 of the 8 pins is slightly offset. This is called a SPG pattern. It is so the flywheel is indexed when everything has been balanced. Turn the flywheel 1 pin at a time till you find the correct match.
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efi67vw
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2007 12:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

vwracerdave wrote:
You do know that 1 of the 8 pins is slightly offset. This is called a SPG pattern. It is so the flywheel is indexed when everything has been balanced. Turn the flywheel 1 pin at a time till you find the correct match.


Sounds like the culprit to me.
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77charger
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2007 12:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bought a crankand flywheel from DPR it fit fine a lil tight but no probs.The off set can be a little tricky it only goes on one way that took me a couple turns to try and match it to the off set.

I was told by them also when i set endplay only use the 4 original dowel pins so it goes on easier and comes off easier.
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Clyde Maddox
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2007 2:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys. I've heard good stuff on Berg and DPR before. The offset is not the problem, I'm a machinist by trade and am working too much overtime to be bothered with fixing someone else's mistake. I broke a 1/4-20 tap in one of the dowels and will finish getting it out on Monday. It would be more cost effective for me if they didn't put any holes in the crank at all, that way I could have simply used the flywheel as a fixture to ream the crank. Oh well, live and learn....
Thanks again for the info. DPR and DMS
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nsracing
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2007 5:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why would a shop 8-dowel a flywheel without a crank attached to it?

The SPG jig is a cool tool no doubt, but unless you have the crank and flywheel mated together before drilling/reaming would be hard to match separately.

I stopped using the SPG pattern. I just use a Hartford SuperSpacer to space out the 8 dowels centering on the one original stud. I just put a matching mark so the two pieces will mate in the same position.

The beauty of it is that you can even misindex it and still match! Very Happy
Nothing like precision toolings.
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jamestwo
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2007 6:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The bugpack flanged crank and flywheel are with out a doubt the finest avalable.
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Last edited by jamestwo on Sun Jan 14, 2007 8:24 pm; edited 1 time in total
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vwdragracer
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2007 8:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jamestwo wrote:
The bugpack flandged crank and flywheel are with out a doubt the finest avalable.



LOL James you crack me up sometimes
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jamestwo
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2007 8:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why?

A flangd crank is the best way to secure the flywheel, rather then trying to band aid the normal setup. And face it, 8 dowel, wedgemate, weldmate all are band aids.

vwdragracer wrote:
jamestwo wrote:
The bugpack flandged crank and flywheel are with out a doubt the finest avalable.



LOL James you crack me up sometimes

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Oakley Diesel
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2007 8:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just love how my new scat crank and flywheel fit so well Rolling Eyes
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