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Manual to automatic conversion in a 66 T34
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2manytoys
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2007 1:42 pm    Post subject: Manual to automatic conversion in a 66 T34 Reply with quote

I have searched the old posts looking for topics that cover converting a manual t34 into an automatic, but after three hours no luck. Normally people want to go the other way.

I have a 66 t34 that is for the wife and will be changed to a full automatic. I have a complete 70 donor fasty that is automatic. I don't want to swap pans since the t34 pan is near perfect and the T34 66 pan looks a little different than the 70 fasty pan near the rear seat. I have obviously all the parts for the rear conversion to IRS, but what about inside the tunnel? Swapping the pedal assembly shouldn't be that big a deal, what about the shifter area?

Rear support mods will not be an issue. I will take the fasty parts.
Do I have to cut out the shifter area for the swap?
Are there tubes in the 70 Auto that are obviously not in the 66 pan?
New motor will run carbs, so return fuel lines are not needed.

Thanks.
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BerT3
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2007 2:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
what about the shifter area? Do I have to cut out the shifter area for the swap?


You need a complete shifter part of the tunnel welded in !
'66-ers don't have the larger bolt in shifter area otherwise it would have been a straight swap with the automatique shifter

Quote:
Rear support mods will not be an issue. I will take the fasty parts.


Wrong - totally different IRS rear hangers !

Quote:
Are there tubes in the 70 Auto that are obviously not in the 66 pan?


Indeed, the one from the automatique shifter - different guide tube !

BerT3


Last edited by BerT3 on Sun Jan 14, 2007 2:14 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Tram
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2007 2:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you're handy with a welder, I think it would be a LOT less work to swap bodies on pans. I would lift the Fastback body off and weld in the T34 pan sections with the proper seat mounts and whatever looks different on the back seat. I'd then drop the '66 t34 body on it. If you can lift the bodies high enough, this will save you having to modify the tunnel, and bolt/ unbolt engine, trans, rear wishbone, and so on to go with it. you'll need to figure out how you want to register it, and find out what issues, if any, you may have with replacing the VIN on the pan with the original T34 vin if that's how you are going to go. I've cut out and welded in pan VINS so that the welds are well hidden under the padding glued on the tunnel beneath the rear seat when repairing total rustbuckets without any problems.
I would also use the 1970 steering column, as it is far easier to get an ignition switch for that than the '66 if your ignition switch fails.
Look in my Gallery at my T34 Cabriolet project to see how i handily solved the IRS mounting issue by putting the mounts in the trunk and using heavy duty angle iron to extend them.
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2manytoys
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2007 11:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The shifter is the area that I thought would be the tough fix. I was guessing the guide tubes would also pain me.

The rear mods for the IRS/engine support can be worked with some work, but not that big a deal.

Welding is not an issue.

Yep, the ignition is busted, but I have a couple spare 66 columns. The 70 column will be a just in case down the road.

I am sure that the pan swap is the better/easier way to go, I am just trying to convince myself I can save the original pan, sentimental I guess.

This is a full resto/custom so the labor will be there no matter what for taking the rear assembly apart for powder coat as well as the front end. The body is off and completely stripped for body and paint,...Boy the T34 has a lot of interior parts, and seals, and stuff. Very nicely put together. Too bad it ain't a sunroof model.
Thanks
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2007 3:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's not really the guide tubes being an issue, it's more like VW changed the top of the tunnel to accomidate the AT shifter, and still use the MT shifter. The AT unit is a little wider (since the working parts are below the surface), and you have to be able to fit that into place. You could always take some measurements (since you have both pans), and see how much you'd have to open up the 66 tunnel to fit the AT shifter. I'd probably do this part first, since you've the early style heater cotrols on the 66 pan, the AT shifter assembly might not fit into place. Personally, I'd keep the 66 pan under the t-34 body (if shifter will fit, so the numbers match), and mod the shifter into place. If you look under the 70, you'll see where you'll have to drill a hole (in the 66 pan) for the shifter cable to exit. Swap the entire rear sub frame assembly out (remove the engine and trans 1st), then put them both into the ghia (you can use the handle on the fanshroud to help in the alignment) then use a floor jack to lift the engine up some, so you can fabricate the engine hanger brackets. I used this method when I converted my 65 Notch over to IRS. I hope this helps.
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Russ Wolfe
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2007 5:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is one of my projects I am going to be attempting on my 64 T-34. My floor pans are completely gone, and I have a 71 fastback automatic that the body is gone.
I am going to put the 71 pan under the Ghia. With the automatic. I will end up with a 64 T-34 with automatic, and I hope Fuel injection.
BTW, if you convert to automatic, you also have to convert to 12V, as the transmission has a 12V shift solenoid inside the valve body.
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KTPhil Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2007 5:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

IRS, auto, old body... nice car. Add A/C and Tram will steal it!
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2007 6:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

KTPhil wrote:
IRS, auto, old body... nice car. Add A/C and Tram will steal it!


why would he steal it when he can just build one Wink
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Tram
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2007 6:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll only steal it if he convertibleizes it.
I think I just invented a new word, truthiness be known... Hope it doesn't get Plutoed too soon.
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2manytoys
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 16, 2007 9:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bobnoch,

That sounds about like what I was thinking. Thanks for the info. I am leaning on saving the original pan, since it works with the T34 body already.

Maybe I will chop it too,..nah the body is pretty cool as it sits.

p-
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 17, 2007 7:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Like I said before, check the measurement from the back edge of the AT shifter assembly (including the cover) to the where the body bolts to the pan and see if you have enough room to fit the shifter in the earlier pan (heater controls might be in the way). I'm only recommending to use where the body bolts to the pan, as that part of both cars should be the same. If the length is too close, you might be forced to have to use the later pan.
What Russ is doing is similar to what I did with my wife's car (swapped the pans to put in AT for her). In our state they mainly look at the body VIN, due to the amount of rust we get on cars around here. In fact a buddy of mine just registered a 73 super beetle with a complete tube chassis (he built) and 350 V8 engine last summer. Shocked That thing is wild. Twisted Evil
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote:
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives."
Tram wrote:
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed".
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2manytoys
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 18, 2007 9:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks, I will check the dimensions on the pan from shifter to the belly pan bolts, good reference point. I could, if need be, mod the heater control area too,..move it back a little if needed. I will do some checking in any event and post what I find and end up doing.

Car is in paint now, so I have a couple months to get the rolling pan show ready for the body.

P-
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