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cold start valve
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gator
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 17, 2007 12:30 pm    Post subject: cold start valve Reply with quote

where do you guys get a cold start valve and what is a reasonable price to pay? i don't want to get raped, but i need the part.
mine cracked this morning and pooled gas atop my engine. now i'm semi-stranded.
thanks in advance.

oh yeah, it's for an '80 vanagon.
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mightyart
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 17, 2007 12:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

pm Karl and ask him if he has a good used one.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/profile.php?mode=viewprofile&u=320
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gator
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 17, 2007 12:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

right on. thanks brother.
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 17, 2007 1:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

They are getting to be real money http://www.busdepot.com/details.jsp?partnumber=022906171B

If you are stuck, you can just by-pass it with a piece of fuel line.
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gator
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 17, 2007 3:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

good idea with the fuel line.
it's been mid 70s here until today, so cold start wasn't an issue. but today it's in the 40s.
that one you posted isn't that bad. not a whole lot more than a used one might fetch. i think i may have to jump on that one.

thanks guys.
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btlbugtyp1
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 17, 2007 4:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i wouldnt worry bout the cold start valve to much ...i dont have mine hooked up and my van still starts right up even when its 20 degrees .......my van is A/C By the way
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gator
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 22, 2007 1:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well i picked up 4 ft of fuel line at the flaps, set me back around $4. bypassed the cold start valve, been back on the road since friday. upon inspection, it was time for new fuel line anyway.
it's been harder to start, and seems to idle a little higher...i can only assume the broken csv is letting a little air through. the plastic part wiggles around in the metal part, and gas was spraying all over (before i bypassed it)

thanks everyone for your input, particularly mightyart for suggesting karl. i think he's gonna be able to supply a valve that won't break the bank.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 22, 2007 3:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you only paid 4 bucks for your fuel line you have the wrong stuff. Go back and get fuel injection rated line. Don't want you to lose your bus to a fire.
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gator
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 23, 2007 7:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

the same thought passed through my mind after reading another thread about the normal price of fi line. i took the line off the engine into the store, and figured dude would give me what i needed. either that, or i had the wrong shit on there from the beginning.

here she is, just for the hell of it:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 23, 2007 8:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is little difference in the appearance of FI rated fuel line and the regular stuff. Amazingly the regular stuff is rated well above the pressures seen in VW FI systems, but personal experience says that the cheap stuff can't handle even 10% of it's rating after a couple of years.
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mightyart
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 23, 2007 8:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

allthewayalive wrote:
the same thought passed through my mind after reading another thread about the normal price of fi line. i took the line off the engine into the store, and figured dude would give me what i needed.


You got fuel line, nowadays they consider that an A+ job.
Can't really blame the guy berhind the counter.
Minimum work, for minimum wage!
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gator
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 23, 2007 8:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A+ job indeed. there is a college here in columbia that recently instituted a system to grade students on effort. apparently as hard as they tried, they couldn't pass. so we fixed that, didn't we?

as long as dude sold me something, he did his job, right?
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 23, 2007 9:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is important that you seal up the vacuum leak the broken CSV is giving you at the air plenum.

If you have to just remove the CSV and secure a piece of duct tape over the hole. Don't let it get sucked in of course.

I want to say that an EGR gasket from a 80's Buick V6 will also work, but I can't remember exactly which one it was.
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