Relocating oil pressure switch

[SGKent]

the first one has a crush washer. That is for a 10mm x 1 STRAIGHT thread. Air cooled VW senders are 10mm x 1 TAPERED thread. You will need thread sealant like Locktite 565 and a primer because it does not properly set up on non-active metals. The case is a STRAIGHT thread but it is not milled for the sealing washer. If the case was apart and you could have that area milled then it would be an excellent solution. There would be no stresses on the case to spread that area but it could strip out if too much pressure were applied to tighten it. Locktite 565 should seal it. Don't let any get on the last couple threads to avoid it getting into the oil.
_________________
“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[chimneyfish]

Thanks Steve, I’m glad I posted in this thread, as I’m learning something new here. I was only thinking of putting dowty washers on the t-piece where the senders mate to it, not to the case, although as you say that would be good if you could. A light smear of Loctite 248 would be no good for the threads going into the t-piece then? Also that hose on eBay that I have similar in my stash of parts is no good then? Maybe those who have used it graunched the threads in. For what you would think is such a simple job, planning this one out is fraught with complications. I’m glad I haven’t got round to it yet and saw this thread first.

Edit: I have that straight thread sender for the oil warning light in my stash also, as well as the VDO sender for the pressure gauge. I will have a look at the parts I have at the weekend, and see if they all screw together properly, and try and take some pictures to post up.
_________________
1965 Type 1 Deluxe (1200cc)
1976 Type 2 T2b Microbus L (1800cc Type 4)
Previously...
1972 T2 Camper (Devon), 1988 Golf, 1972 Type 1, 1984 Polo, 1972 T2 Camper (Danbury)

[SGKent]

[hometurbine]

Quick update...after a successful run
1)Used the EMPI stainless brake line mentioned previously (M10x1 STRAIGHT), 18"

2) Below you can see the case hole. It has a flat bottom. The first 2 threads were damaged by the PO using 1/8"-27 NPT, but the rest were in good shape.

2) The bottom is ~0.54 inch deep. So I ground the end of the brake line so it doesn't bottom out too early. I'd say I ground off to near the threads so say ~0.52 remaining.

3) I used the primer and loctite 565. As Gary mentioned need a special crows foot to reach down there. This is the "ghetto" tool I made. I cut a slit to fit the line in, then added a 14MM bolt head in there so it's the same size as the brake line and clamped it to reach the right dimension.

4) Inserted the line, light torque

5) and then at the other end I was considering Gary's rivnut on the tin, but I thought the fan case was easier and I can see leaks better...

6) Let it cure for 24 hours then did a test run. Here is finished product.

7) With the E1 Stratomaster I now have all critical parameters montored (only 1 CHT for now on #3, other 3 are "hanging out" for the future). BTW, the alarm is on because I shut off the engine and oil pressure is 0...

Thanks all for your help. Hopefully my first trip will go well.
_________________
Bill
'75 Westy Bus with Subaru EJ25 engine
GE CT58-100 helicopter gas turbine
Tiernay TT10 APU gas turbine

[SGKent]

bump -
_________________
“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[hometurbine]

Ok...after my trip I had mixed success...see link

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=741399

I thought I had a main seal leak, but it could be from the oil sender connection at the case. It didn't leak on my test run, but now I see oil on tins and at the case connection (hard to take a good picture).

So I guess I'll undo it and try again. I thought I did it right...cleaned it, primer, loctite 565, cure for 24 hours.....

I would be interested in the M10x1 taper fitting, but it bring it to 1/8-27...would much prefer to M10-10 straight....else I need another connector at the sender side to go from 1/8-27 to M10-taper.

Then again I could still have a main seal issue....
_________________
Bill
'75 Westy Bus with Subaru EJ25 engine
GE CT58-100 helicopter gas turbine
Tiernay TT10 APU gas turbine

[SGKent]

[hometurbine]

Just thought I'd mention that let's just assume the brake line is a good repair until we find evidence otherwise. I'll post my leak stuff elsewhere until I can sort this out, as it may be from the aft seal.
_________________
Bill
'75 Westy Bus with Subaru EJ25 engine
GE CT58-100 helicopter gas turbine
Tiernay TT10 APU gas turbine

[aeromech]

Once again for the group. When trying to locate the source of a hard to find leak, it’s best to add UV dye to your engine oil and then check for leaks using a black light. If you need further directions on doing this, just ask
_________________
Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
Licensed Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic
Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
VW Jetta
VW Passat
Capable of leaping tall buildings in a single bound

[SGKent]

here is the Eaton hose. It is what VDO was using in their kits. It is 1/8th NPT male to female, so it came with a 1/8 NPT male to 10 mm 1 female straight adapter for the sender end. At the other end I have added the NPT to 10 mm x 1 tapered adapter that was discussed here last week. The Eaton part # is 81430-16. They are also available longer and shorter, just change the last number to the length you want when you search for it. The VDO kit consisted of the hose, the adapter, and a clamp to go around the sender.

Original kit VDO 150-752 was without a D. It had the correct hose according to Richard Atwell. It was replaced the 150-752 D kit which has the 1/8th NPT male thread mentioned above. Top image from Richard's site

150-752D kit with adapter to 10mm x 1 tapered made by Malone Specialty Inc out of Mentor, OH Phone: 440-255-4200 have part number MMTFP101018.

_________________
“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[SGKent]

If one reads the last page there are numerous solutions offered here to solve the issue of relocating the oil pressure sensor.

One can use an Empi brake hose with sealer
- Any 10 mm x 1 male taper to 10 mm x 1 female straight thread pressure hose
- Any 10 mm x 1 straight thread male with sealer to 10 mm female pressure line with sealer
- The Eaton hose 1/8th NPT male to 1/8th NPT female with adapters, that were originally offered in the VDO kit plus the one listed above.
- Have a custom hose made up if you can find the fittings.
-Or use 1/8th NPT and bugger the threads but it will seal properly.
_________________
“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[aeromech]

Rubber hose. How are you grounding the sender?
_________________
Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
Licensed Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic
Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
VW Jetta
VW Passat
Capable of leaping tall buildings in a single bound

[SGKent]

[aeromech]

That'll work
_________________
Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
Licensed Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic
Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
VW Jetta
VW Passat
Capable of leaping tall buildings in a single bound

[chimneyfish]

Here are some of my bits and pieces that I have accumulated.

*The hose and T-piece seem to be all M10x1 straight threads. The generic photocopied instructions below are written in 'NPT' but when reading you will get the idea.The hose will fit nicely through the rubber boot on the tin, and the compression gland nuts at each end of the hose can be disassembled.

*I have two new regular senders in my spares, one is straight thread and the other tapered, the latter bought for my onboard spares box before I knew there was a difference, as that is all they were selling. I'm glad I never had reason to fit the tapered one. From memory I'm sure my case has the original sender in it, which I will reuse, so fingers crossed a PO didn't gash the case with an NPT tapered sender.

*An M10 dowty washer makes a nice snug fit to the T-piece, making a good mating surface, as the threads don't quite go all the way to the base of the accessory VDO sender's stem, the dowty washer compensates for that.

*The brass adapter I mentioned in another post above wasn't with the hose kit as I thought, it was stapled to the VDO accessory sender (VDO 360-006). I have no use for it and and am not sure why VDO supplied it with the (German made) accessory sender, maybe it is for a watercooled application.

*My bus was originally a 2.0L FI when it left the factory, ever since I have owned the bus, it has had a 1.8L dual Solex carb engine. It still has the original FI tin. Like hometurbine, I initially liked the thought of Gary's rivnut mounting solution, not least as I have a rivnut kit, but without the FI my engine bay is less congested. The fan housing also seems an attractive option like hometurbine has done, especially for spotting leaks, but I also have three small grommets covering where the old EGR pipe used to be on the original 2.0L. I'm thinking the right side small hole could be repurposed for the sender clamp, no drilling required.

*Am I reading this right? But It appears the spec of the "straight thread" on the VDO 360-006 is “M10x1K”, (see here: https://www.vdo-gauges.com/sensors/pressure-sensor...-30-2.html and for comparison here: https://www.vdo-gauges.com/sensors/pressure-sensor...;order=sku )

Various parts:

Straight thread (top), Tapered thread (bottom):

Straight M10x1 threads screwed together including straight thread stock sender:

Hose kit instructions (generic instructions, so ignore references to NPT):
https://www.lmaautoparts.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=744

_________________
1965 Type 1 Deluxe (1200cc)
1976 Type 2 T2b Microbus L (1800cc Type 4)
Previously...
1972 T2 Camper (Devon), 1988 Golf, 1972 Type 1, 1984 Polo, 1972 T2 Camper (Danbury)

[Mr Beckstar]

I'm trying to avoid using rubber hose. I'm planning to use 1/8" annealed copper tube and compression fittings. In years gone by, such a copper tube would have been used to connect the crankcase pressure tapping directly to the bourdon tube pressure gauge in the dashboard. I'm only intending to run the copper tube about 2". I'm using an M10x1.0 taper to screw into the crankcase with a 1/8" BSPT x 1/8" 90 degree compression fitting attached to that. There'll be very little weight on the crankcase thread.

[raygreenwood]