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Relocating oil pressure switch
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aeromech
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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2018 11:08 am    Post subject: Re: Relocating oil pressure switch Reply with quote

What about VDO 360-006? Dual pole 7 psi. M10 x 1. I have one I’m getting ready to install on a T4. Using an Empi stainless brake hose to relocate.
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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2018 2:27 pm    Post subject: Re: Relocating oil pressure switch Reply with quote

aeromech wrote:
What about VDO 360-006? Dual pole 7 psi. M10 x 1.


From the specs it would seem to be ok to me, even closer to the stock oil pressure switch threshold (stock: 0.45 bar or 6.5 psi; this one: 0.48 bar or 7 psi).

I have seen that part number too (one of those advertised as "7 psi" senders I mentioned), but I can't correlate it with any part ID from the current VDO documentation. Googling it up returns hundreds of returns from vendors, but not from VDO themselves. It might be either an old part number (*) or old stock that the vendors are just keeping alive.

In any case, here's the link to the latest VDO catalog I posted the edited picture of earlier, with the current part numbers:

http://www.vdo.com/media/182591/flc_sensors_instrumentation_en.pdf (page 15 for dual pole pressure senders)

aeromech wrote:
I have one I’m getting ready to install on a T4. Using an Empi stainless brake hose to relocate.


Ah, cool. I'd be interested on how and where you are installing the sender. On the cylinder tin? On the firewall? With a bracket or threaded block?

Btw, good point on your earlier comment about using stainless hose to provide ground to the sender!

(*) Actually, there is a reference to 360-006 on a 2012 VDO catalog here (page 53): http://gilmore-global.com/documents/2012VDOOEMCatalog.pdf so it's probably a superseded part number reference
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aeromech
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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2018 3:06 pm    Post subject: Re: Relocating oil pressure switch Reply with quote

Here's a few pics of what I've done

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Here's one before I figured using the stainless hose. Still a left rear bus brake hose

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I drill the tin and install a nutsert for the clamp
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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2018 3:39 pm    Post subject: Re: Relocating oil pressure switch Reply with quote

Excellent, thanks. Nice detail with the nutsert for the FI version.
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2020 9:22 pm    Post subject: Re: Relocating oil pressure switch Reply with quote

Is the 42DD relocation kit no longer available? I emailed them and waiting a response but thought I would check with you guys in the meantime.
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2020 9:57 pm    Post subject: Re: Relocating oil pressure switch Reply with quote

I think all those are gone, and the Eaton hose is taper thread. Probably time we deal with this as a group.

Can someone verify what the thread size is on a stock sender, taper or non-taper, and what the thread size is on the VDO sender. I am sure we can have a dozen made up at a hydraulic shop that will last the life of the engine. There are plenty of people here who ask about this. I am not comfortable using brake, or grease gun lines. My Eaton hose is an American taper fit so it ruins the factory threads although it seals.

Example of what might be a fitting on the engine side - I don't know if this is the thread or not. McMaster-Carr probably has them too. https://www.fittings.space/hsm21-008-m10x10m
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2020 6:43 am    Post subject: Re: Relocating oil pressure switch Reply with quote

Since many drill and tap oil galleys, could you not use one as a port ? it would be 1/8-1/4 npt. with plenty of fittings avail. obviously not easy on built/ installed engines. Also a common engine fail safe thing is to install a relay on oil pressure circuit to switch off fuel pump/coil, when pressure goes to 0, is this not an option? Isn't this common on competition engines?
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2020 7:11 am    Post subject: Re: Relocating oil pressure switch Reply with quote

Here is what I did:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


It has changed slightly since that picture, but you get the idea.
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2020 7:23 am    Post subject: Re: Relocating oil pressure switch Reply with quote

RWK wrote:
Since many drill and tap oil galleys, could you not use one as a port ? it would be 1/8-1/4 npt. with plenty of fittings avail. obviously not easy on built/ installed engines. Also a common engine fail safe thing is to install a relay on oil pressure circuit to switch off fuel pump/coil, when pressure goes to 0, is this not an option? Isn't this common on competition engines?


This is exactly along the lines of what I have been thinking for a while.

So......it begs the question.....if there were no oil port provided for the oil pressure switch.....and you could put one anyhwere....blank slste style.....where do you think you would put it?

Long ago.....I was experimenting with a high mileage engine looking at temperature across the oil cooler and had a pair of TC's plumbed into the two plugs on the galleries of the oil cooler mount.
I always thought that would be a good location to check differntial pressure.
Thoughts? Ray
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2020 8:22 am    Post subject: Re: Relocating oil pressure switch Reply with quote

SGKent wrote:
I think all those are gone, and the Eaton hose is taper thread. Probably time we deal with this as a group.

Can someone verify what the thread size is on a stock sender, taper or non-taper, and what the thread size is on the VDO sender.


The Type 1 takes a 10mmx1 straight thread with a sealing ring, while the Type 4 takes a tapered thread, I don't know that the tapered thread is anything different from a 1/8 NPT, but it could be a 1/8 BPT or something else, both 1/8 NPT and 1/8 BPT being used on various sending units.
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2020 8:28 am    Post subject: Re: Relocating oil pressure switch Reply with quote

the type 4 is the only one with issues because the sender will fit into a T1 without an extension. I ran 500,000 miles with them on a T1. If the T4 is a 1/8 taper then the Eaton 81430-16 hose will work. That is the one that VDO used in their kits. I am using one on my bus and it threaded fine but I thought Mark said the T4 was M10. I don't have a sender that is easy to find to see what it is.
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2020 9:17 am    Post subject: Re: Relocating oil pressure switch Reply with quote

SGKent wrote:
the type 4 is the only one with issues because the sender will fit into a T1 without an extension. I ran 500,000 miles with them on a T1. If the T4 is a 1/8 taper then the Eaton 81430-16 hose will work. That is the one that VDO used in their kits. I am using one on my bus and it threaded fine but I thought Mark said the T4 was M10. I don't have a sender that is easy to find to see what it is.


I can screw my grease hose into 1800 block I have at hand and my Type 4 oil pressure switch screws into my grease gun, also when I set the threads on the switch against the threads on my grease hose the pitch is identical. Additionally some Type 4 blocks are not machined around the oil pressure port and thus can not be sealed with a gaskets so must have a taper threaded sender. Maybe some Type 4 engines take a straight thread, but not the engines I presently have at hand.
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2020 9:38 am    Post subject: Re: Relocating oil pressure switch Reply with quote

Both M10 and 1/8" NPT share the same diameter and pitch, it's the angle of the V's on the threads that differs slightly, either will thread into the other but the hole is slightly deformed in the process. You can get away with it once, and maybe even switch back once, but repeated swapping may leak. M10 taper is also known as 1/8" BPT, it's found on many early Japanese cars as well as British things.

I'm fairly sure both type 1 and type 4 use the taper thread, the straight threads with the sealing ring is found on later replacement senders that interchange with some watercooled application. The boss the oil switch goes in on a type 1 isn't faced for the sealing ring, the location on the type 4 is smoother, but still not really meant for sealing from what I've seen.

1/8" grease gun hose is a viable alternative IMO, a braided brake hose from a European or Japanese application may be even better.
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2020 11:28 am    Post subject: Re: Relocating oil pressure switch Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
Both M10 and 1/8" NPT share the same diameter and pitch, it's the angle of the V's on the threads that differs slightly, either will thread into the other but the hole is slightly deformed in the process. You can get away with it once, and maybe even switch back once, but repeated swapping may leak. M10 taper is also known as 1/8" BPT, it's found on many early Japanese cars as well as British things.

I'm fairly sure both type 1 and type 4 use the taper thread, the straight threads with the sealing ring is found on later replacement senders that interchange with some watercooled application. The boss the oil switch goes in on a type 1 isn't faced for the sealing ring, the location on the type 4 is smoother, but still not really meant for sealing from what I've seen.

1/8" grease gun hose is a viable alternative IMO, a braided brake hose from a European or Japanese application may be even better.


You are probably right on the Type 1. I typically put back in whatever I take out unless it isn't sealing well. So if a Type 1 has a straight threaded OP switch screwed in and it is working that is what goes back in.

10x1 mm is going to be a 24.5 pitch, verse 27 for a NPT or 28 for a BPT, so once has run a 10x1 mm tap into the hole to clean it up or even forced a 10x1 switch/sender fully into the hole you are pretty much stuck with it.
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 06, 2020 2:11 pm    Post subject: Re: Relocating oil pressure switch Reply with quote

RalphWiggam wrote:
Here is what I did:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


It has changed slightly since that picture, but you get the idea.


Did you just screw the 1/8 NPT from the hose into the original sender location?

Where did you locate the three way juntion?
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2020 12:29 am    Post subject: Re: Relocating oil pressure switch Reply with quote

BUSBOSS wrote:
RalphWiggam wrote:
Here is what I did:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



Did you just screw the 1/8 NPT from the hose into the original sender location?

Where did you locate the three way junction?


SGKent wrote:
I think all those are gone, and the Eaton hose is taper thread. Probably time we deal with this as a group.

Can someone verify what the thread size is on a stock sender, taper or non-taper, and what the thread size is on the VDO sender. I am sure we can have a dozen made up at a hydraulic shop that will last the life of the engine. There are plenty of people here who ask about this. I am not comfortable using brake, or grease gun lines. My Eaton hose is an American taper fit so it ruins the factory threads although it seals.


After some research, talking with 42DD, and my local speed shop, I answered my own (now pretty stupid) question:

You should not thread the brake hose directly into the case. The hose is 1/8 NPT and the sender is M10X1.0 flat/straight thread. You need an M10 to 1/8 NPT adapter. You can fit the 1/8 NPT threaded hose into your case but the threads will be buggered and you will likely not get an M10 back in there with a good seal.

Hope this helps others.
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2020 7:09 am    Post subject: Re: Relocating oil pressure switch Reply with quote

A metric brake hose is what most people use as it is the correct 10mmx1.0mm thread pitch. A drop of locktie blue if needed.

I want to say that it is the right front flex hose from a 78 bus, but I can't recall right now. Somebody will be along in a minute to give you the correct hose location.
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2020 2:43 pm    Post subject: Re: Relocating oil pressure switch Reply with quote

I have type 4 2L and I want to replace the solid stem the PO had to the flexible stainless line as shown above by BUSBOSS, but I don't need the T connctor (will thread sender directly into it). So my understanding is the case side would be a straight male M10x1 and the sender side would be the M10X1 female tapered (I have the double pole VDO sender).

1) So this should work, right? Earl's 63080913ERL
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-63080913erl

2) Sounds like a metal gasket at the case would not work great so then loctite blue or aviation seal maker or something like that?

Thanks
Bill
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2020 5:06 pm    Post subject: Re: Relocating oil pressure switch Reply with quote

I have a used GD case that had the Eaton hose that came in the VDO kit screwed in. I have a new T4 case that has never had any sender installed. Clearly the appearance is different between the two threaded sender openings. I can't give a clear answer, and from all the different comments in this thread no one else has been able to either. I do have a pitch gauge and soon will need to determine the best solution. On the GD motor I was using a VDO kit designed for air cooled VW engines. The Eaton hose number came from that kit. But it appears to have deformed the GD sender opening.
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2020 6:54 pm    Post subject: Re: Relocating oil pressure switch Reply with quote

SGKent wrote:
I have a used GD case that had the Eaton hose that came in the VDO kit screwed in. I have a new T4 case that has never had any sender installed. Clearly the appearance is different between the two threaded sender openings. I can't give a clear answer, and from all the different comments in this thread no one else has been able to either. I do have a pitch gauge and soon will need to determine the best solution. On the GD motor I was using a VDO kit designed for air cooled VW engines. The Eaton hose number came from that kit. But it appears to have deformed the GD sender opening.


What came stock on an 1800 T-127 is a tapered 10x1 thread, no sealant was used. A sealing ring would not work as there is a raised seam where two parts of the mold met. This is an unequivocal answer.
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