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Adriel Rowley
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Joined: October 12, 2006
Posts: 4748
Location: Mesa, Arizona
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Adriel Rowley
Samba Member
Joined: October 12, 2006
Posts: 4748
Location: Mesa, Arizona
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Mike Fisher
Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2006
Posts: 17969
Location: Eugene, OR
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 Posted: Sun May 08, 2022 1:48 pm Post subject: Re: Squareback Rejuvenation - A Soap Opera |
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You should lower the front at least 1 inner spline to get the nose down.
Mine is down 2 inner splines on 185x60.
_________________
https://imgur.com/user/FisherSquareback/posts
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey |
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Adriel Rowley
Samba Member
Joined: October 12, 2006
Posts: 4748
Location: Mesa, Arizona
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| Posted: Sat May 07, 2022 8:25 pm Post subject: Re: Squareback Rejuvenation - A Soap Opera |
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Went with a 185-70 so closer to the 6,00x15 size (165-85R15), 165R15 closer to 5,60x15. Thrilled with the choice, look right (165R15 is smaller than stock) and slightly wider width for safety without not fitting up front, with only slight rubbing at full lock (passenger side has rubbed from the factory) and plenty of clearance in the rear. 
Wanted the weight of about 8 gallons of fuel so better idea of how the front tire sits, so had the pup hop in the trunk.
Once Baby is back on the road, will adjust the tire pressures.
_________________
Please consider I am Autistic, so I process information differently and still working on social skills. Thanks.
Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810
1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation |
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Adriel Rowley
Samba Member
Joined: October 12, 2006
Posts: 4748
Location: Mesa, Arizona
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Adriel Rowley
Samba Member
Joined: October 12, 2006
Posts: 4748
Location: Mesa, Arizona
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| Posted: Sat Apr 02, 2022 6:56 pm Post subject: Re: Squareback Rejuvenation - A Soap Opera |
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Ray, really appreciate putting up with me.
I put in nine hours of hard work and absolutely knackered, so hopefully I am appropriate and understandable.
Good to know if the connectors are new, does scrape away the grease.
This harness has only had a few heat cycles, certainly less than 250 miles, and connecters cycled five times (once when installing, once when removing, once installing on a rebuilt engine I did, removing and reinstalling to do this last set of work). I still have the original box somewhere safe, too neat finding a NOS harness and blessed it was for the D version.
I have Dad's jeweler screwdrivers as I wear glasses and also have his pliers, he used them for control wire aircraft building (maybe I build one myself).
Oh and on my own thinking, have tightened connectors elsewhere and seemed to make a difference.
Did AMP get bought out? Happens the connectors I bought are TE Connectivity AMP.
_________________
Please consider I am Autistic, so I process information differently and still working on social skills. Thanks.
Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810
1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation |
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raygreenwood
Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21510
Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Sat Apr 02, 2022 2:57 pm Post subject: Re: Squareback Rejuvenation - A Soap Opera |
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Adriel Rowley said:
| Quote: |
Interesting Liqui Moly would label their product incorrectly, again, how is this my fault? Though now know to check every procedure before proceeding.
Why would our pins not scrap off enough as connecting? Is it the difference in the scale of the layer left behind?
I would rather move forward, though appreciative of this in-depth information, thank you Ray. |
You are correct that the BGGEST problem is a matter of scale. But its also a matter of what the wires are transmitting. They are not just transmitting basic power or voltage.
They are transmitting millivolt signals.....and resistance. Changes in resistance are "read' and translated by portions the D-jet ECU....as time. It can and will change injection pulsewidth.
No...our D0jet terminals cannot scrape the grease out of the way. The modern EV-1 style dual cantilever spring terminal which has constant spring pressure cannot scrape away dielectric grease. The fastest way to screw up modern injection and cerate a huge, unending series of intermittent faults is to apply dielectric grease to those terminals.
Our ancient male female connectors which while functional..... are single handedly the worst connector design in the history of electronic fuel injection...which is why they have never been used on any other EFI system since.....have marginally more INITIAL clamping or "scraping" power than new EV-1 style terminals......but they already have their own connectivity issues.
They are "fixed"...they are un-sprung.
They are miniature versions of the larger terminals you have in your fuse block, on dash switches etc. And...its very common over time (even without regularly pulling them on and off)....that they get loose...they wiggle...they cause intermittent connections.
This happens due to a combination of vibration, heat cycling, plugging and unplugging and corrosion/tarnish.
In fact....back around 1999...searching for terminals on the vast Tyco/AMP website...I came across a lab paper from Bosch/AMP regarding our fuel injection terminals that stated that testing in about 1970 to 1972 found that as few as 25 cycles of plugging and unplugging of our fuel injection terminals...could make the rolled edges loose enough to cause a complete lack of connectivity. This is even without heat cycling and vibration.
How do we fix these...whether they are the large ones in our fuse panel or our EFI terminals?...well....we either replace them...or we grab a pair of needle nose pliers and squeeze the rolled sides of the female terminals to tighten up the grip.
So along with the existing problems...putting dielectric grease or any grease on the EFI terminals will make for a miserable level of reliability not far off.
Yep....its not your fault....but it is your problem. What Needs to be done....what you need to do...is get a good circuit cleaner spray and spray that grease out of your terminals on both sides ...male and female.
Then I would get a bottle of that Caig "De-oxit" that I listed the link to and put a couple of drops on each connector and plug them together.
To really do this right...get a small flat jewelers screwdriver and remove each terminal one by one. Go to wall mart....and on teh craft aisle you can buy a small pair of needle nose pliers that have no teeth (they are jewelers pliers for bead work) for about $4. Squeeze the rolled sides of each female connector to make sure they fit on the male pin of an injector tightly. Then put them back in the plugs.
Do not be fooled by tight fitting plastic plugs in injectors and sensors....because many times that is just the tight fit of the plug body...and not the fit of the female connectors that is tight. Ray |
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Adriel Rowley
Samba Member
Joined: October 12, 2006
Posts: 4748
Location: Mesa, Arizona
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| Posted: Fri Apr 01, 2022 4:14 pm Post subject: Re: Squareback Rejuvenation - A Soap Opera |
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| raygreenwood wrote: |
| Adriel Rowley wrote: |
In the past when working on the Squareback and until just recently, few to none would help and you used to rarely be here being employed. So never crossed my mind to inquire.
As for the grease, I am not retarded despite how I come across, did read the tube. Says right on it for electrical connections. So how was I to know?
Dad had a Gerber jar of copper grease Opa gave him, most likely from working at Convair, Dad put some on the bulb and the socket. Used it for anti-seize and despite clearly being on there for 30 plus years, had not corroded (how come I knew what it was and started using copper grease).
I am clearly not saying your wrong, rather, my bias was, as now corrected thanks to your generosity, which is appreciated. |
 Just so you know....I am not calling you stupid or retarded!
Its a very common misconception....dielectric grease.....and it is NOT helped by the actual scientists and physicists out there! (I will explain that in a minute).
As I noted....this type of lubricant ....which is not really a lubricant but more specifically an anti-seize with SOME low speed/sliding surface lubricating qualities.....is too commonly listed as a lubricant for "electrical" (not electronic) connections. Big difference.
This is especially so in marine applications. Also when you see factory equipment running high voltage and amperage, they have very large gauge male/female latching plug assemblies.....like these...
These assemblies are VERY expensive and large....like 8"-10" long with 1/4" diameter or larger male pins. They have a lot of friction.
In this type of system....outdoors or in wet environments its not only acceptable but sometimes required to use either an anti-seize or dielectric lubricant to prevent galling and grinding of the terminals.....and corrosion. If two terminals this big corrode together....it may be impossible to pull them apart.
Also there is enough surface area and friction in couplers this large for the pins to push enough grease out of the way or scrape it off....to allow proper conductivity.
You do not have that pressure and friction all of the time in a very small male female coupler like we use for fuel injection. Thick pastes can physically seperate the male and female connector.
So the physicist and scientist and engineer problem.
In the daily generic use of the word "dielectric".....like when describing "dielectric grease"....most people people who know....know that it means "insulator"...."non-conductive".
However that is NOT the proper/exact meaning of dielectric. In its more pure "electronics" or electrochemical usage....it means a "capacitive" function.
This is why many computer circuit designers and solar cell designers....use two different terms when describing layers of their circuits. You will hear both "dielectric" and "insulator" used within the same circuit board design conversation.
And if you do not know why....you will say "wait....insulator....you mean a dielectric layer right?"
NO.
They mean that the classic red, green or blue printed or dipped coating that overs the printed or etched circuit traces...IS....what we generally call a "dielectric"....and has been applied to work as an INSULATOR...just like the vinyl sheathing on the outside of wire.
They call it an insulator instead of a dielectric....because insulation is its function....but also because they have a layer in the circuit that is a TRUE dielectric....meaning it has a capacitive function.
Usually you will find this "semi-metallic" layer on areas like printed displays or touch/pressure/light sensitive circuit components. Its usually a thin-film....sputter or vapor deposition layer.
It has the ability to absorb and contain electrons that stray or flow from one layer to another. So yes...it insulates at some level...but also may be designed to transfer or discharge from one layer to another or hold a specific level of charge over a long period of time.
I ran into this usage with a glass circuit manufacturer who was making glass panes that electrophoretically change tint level and were built by vapor deposition layers.
So with the advent of Google and people searching for "what a dielectric is" there can be a lot of confusion in the masses as to what dielectric means.
Technically a true dielectric IS conductive....but not in the manner we require. Ray |
Interesting Liqui Moly would label their product incorrectly, again, how is this my fault? Though now know to check every procedure before proceeding.
Why would our pins not scrap off enough as connecting? Is it the difference in the scale of the layer left behind?
I would rather move forward, though appreciative of this in-depth information, thank you Ray.
_________________
Please consider I am Autistic, so I process information differently and still working on social skills. Thanks.
Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810
1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation |
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Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22407
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Thu Mar 31, 2022 1:25 pm Post subject: Re: Squareback Rejuvenation - A Soap Opera |
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I only use dielectric grease in 2 places on a vehicle. One place is between the heat sink and the voltage regulator on GM's and under the electronic ignition module in GM HEI units. In both of the cases, it's being used as a heat sink insulator. I've never had any issues in either application.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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raygreenwood
Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21510
Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Thu Mar 31, 2022 8:40 am Post subject: Re: Squareback Rejuvenation - A Soap Opera |
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| Adriel Rowley wrote: |
In the past when working on the Squareback and until just recently, few to none would help and you used to rarely be here being employed. So never crossed my mind to inquire.
As for the grease, I am not retarded despite how I come across, did read the tube. Says right on it for electrical connections. So how was I to know?
Dad had a Gerber jar of copper grease Opa gave him, most likely from working at Convair, Dad put some on the bulb and the socket. Used it for anti-seize and despite clearly being on there for 30 plus years, had not corroded (how come I knew what it was and started using copper grease).
I am clearly not saying your wrong, rather, my bias was, as now corrected thanks to your generosity, which is appreciated. |
Just so you know....I am not calling you stupid or retarded!
Its a very common misconception....dielectric grease.....and it is NOT helped by the actual scientists and physicists out there! (I will explain that in a minute).
As I noted....this type of lubricant ....which is not really a lubricant but more specifically an anti-seize with SOME low speed/sliding surface lubricating qualities.....is too commonly listed as a lubricant for "electrical" (not electronic) connections. Big difference.
This is especially so in marine applications. Also when you see factory equipment running high voltage and amperage, they have very large gauge male/female latching plug assemblies.....like these...
These assemblies are VERY expensive and large....like 8"-10" long with 1/4" diameter or larger male pins. They have a lot of friction.
In this type of system....outdoors or in wet environments its not only acceptable but sometimes required to use either an anti-seize or dielectric lubricant to prevent galling and grinding of the terminals.....and corrosion. If two terminals this big corrode together....it may be impossible to pull them apart.
Also there is enough surface area and friction in couplers this large for the pins to push enough grease out of the way or scrape it off....to allow proper conductivity.
You do not have that pressure and friction all of the time in a very small male female coupler like we use for fuel injection. Thick pastes can physically seperate the male and female connector.
So the physicist and scientist and engineer problem.
In the daily generic use of the word "dielectric".....like when describing "dielectric grease"....most people people who know....know that it means "insulator"...."non-conductive".
However that is NOT the proper/exact meaning of dielectric. In its more pure "electronics" or electrochemical usage....it means a "capacitive" function.
This is why many computer circuit designers and solar cell designers....use two different terms when describing layers of their circuits. You will hear both "dielectric" and "insulator" used within the same circuit board design conversation.
And if you do not know why....you will say "wait....insulator....you mean a dielectric layer right?"
NO.
They mean that the classic red, green or blue printed or dipped coating that overs the printed or etched circuit traces...IS....what we generally call a "dielectric"....and has been applied to work as an INSULATOR...just like the vinyl sheathing on the outside of wire.
They call it an insulator instead of a dielectric....because insulation is its function....but also because they have a layer in the circuit that is a TRUE dielectric....meaning it has a capacitive function.
Usually you will find this "semi-metallic" layer on areas like printed displays or touch/pressure/light sensitive circuit components. Its usually a thin-film....sputter or vapor deposition layer.
It has the ability to absorb and contain electrons that stray or flow from one layer to another. So yes...it insulates at some level...but also may be designed to transfer or discharge from one layer to another or hold a specific level of charge over a long period of time.
I ran into this usage with a glass circuit manufacturer who was making glass panes that electrophoretically change tint level and were built by vapor deposition layers.
So with the advent of Google and people searching for "what a dielectric is" there can be a lot of confusion in the masses as to what dielectric means.
Technically a true dielectric IS conductive....but not in the manner we require. Ray |
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Adriel Rowley
Samba Member
Joined: October 12, 2006
Posts: 4748
Location: Mesa, Arizona
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| Posted: Wed Mar 30, 2022 8:01 pm Post subject: Re: Squareback Rejuvenation - A Soap Opera |
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In the past when working on the Squareback and until just recently, few to none would help and you used to rarely be here being employed. So never crossed my mind to inquire.
As for the grease, I am not retarded despite how I come across, did read the tube. Says right on it for electrical connections. So how was I to know?
Dad had a Gerber jar of copper grease Opa gave him, most likely from working at Convair, Dad put some on the bulb and the socket. Used it for anti-seize and despite clearly being on there for 30 plus years, had not corroded (how come I knew what it was and started using copper grease).
I am clearly not saying your wrong, rather, my bias was, as now corrected thanks to your generosity, which is appreciated.
_________________
Please consider I am Autistic, so I process information differently and still working on social skills. Thanks.
Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810
1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation |
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raygreenwood
Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21510
Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Wed Mar 30, 2022 7:15 pm Post subject: Re: Squareback Rejuvenation - A Soap Opera |
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| Adriel Rowley wrote: |
| raygreenwood wrote: |
| What is the "copper grease" you speak of? |
https://products.liqui-moly.com/copper-paste-4.html
| raygreenwood wrote: |
There should be "0" grease of any kind used on fuel injection terminals.
Ray |
With no boots, else how does one keep the moister out?
My concern about removing the connectors is damaging them or the spades, especially as have no knowledge or experience.
Again, thank you for the help, appreciated. |
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!
That paste is Lubrimoly's version of Henkel/Fel-pro's C5-A......its an "anti-seize" compound and has no business whatsoever on EECTRONIC CONNECTORS.
Not to be confused with large industrial "electrical" connectors...like trailers or ship to shore hook ups.
It also has silica in it...which is an INSULATOR.....NON-CONDUCTIVE! The other problem is that you want bare copper ...nowhere near these connections.
The fuel injection terminals are made of BRASS because it resists corrosion longer than copper. In the case of the ECU terminals they are made of beryllium spring copper plated with tin.
WHY you might ask?
Because copper...once it reaches the "tarnish" stage...brown penny colored has roughly 50% less connectivity or conductivity at the surface than it did when it was bright copper. Brass takes about 5X as long as copper to reach that level of tarnish.
Once copper reaches the whitish green "corrosion" stage......its surface is 100% non-conductive. This same fact is why aircraft plug connectors, modern automotive connectors and all medical device connectors are all plated with either silver (which is 100% conductive at its tarnish stage), gold...which does not tarnish or corrode....or zinc-nickel in rare cases.
No bare, uncoated, unplated or unsheathed copper allowed!
The copper in that paste will oxidize black in a very short amount of time.
Also you NEVER put ANY kind of grease or oil on fuel injection or any millivolt sensitive connectors UNLESS its known to be an "electrolytic" grease (like Caig de-oxit or one or two others)...that are known to ENHANCE connections.
The common misconception issue also happens when people use "dielectric" grease on electronic connectors. This is 100% wrong.
In the old school world....there was "bulb grease"...simply dielectric, silica based grease. Its purpose was NOT to go on the connectors of the bulb but around the outside.....so water or moisture cannot GET TO the connectors.
This is what you CAN use on your fuel injection terminals...ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE PLASTIC PLUG ....ONLY!....between the plug and the injector or sensor body.....if you must use anything.
I would use nothing. In fact....when my boots on both my type 3's and 4's rotted off eons ago and none were to be found.....I drove them for hundreds of thousands of miles with NO ISSUE. Its just not that big of a deal to not have boots unless you plan to be in a really wet environment.
Just check them a couple of times per year and use a product like this....and you will NEVER have an issue with or without boots.
https://caig.com/deoxit-d-series/
Any of the Caig D5 series will do...but for working on small terminals this is the cheapest, easiest to apply and most economical
https://caig.com/product/deoxit-d100l-2c/
You have GOT to get that copper crud off of your terminals. Totally wrong type of product. It will cause nothing but running and tuning issues...just like a dielectric grease would as well. Been there and done that on my very first 411 in high school before I learned what "dielectric" actually meant.
Ray |
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Adriel Rowley
Samba Member
Joined: October 12, 2006
Posts: 4748
Location: Mesa, Arizona
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raygreenwood
Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21510
Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Wed Mar 30, 2022 10:53 am Post subject: Re: Squareback Rejuvenation - A Soap Opera |
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| Adriel Rowley wrote: |
In a couple days:
Installed a rebuilt AAR
Attached the firewall tin (no clue why I didn't massage it and install before the engine went in all those years ago  )
Installed a new fuel pressure regulator
Greased all the FI harness connectors with copper grease, the black boots are absolutely disintegrating, been since took the NOS harness out of the box when first became custodian
Replaced old start valve
Thermo-time switch
Connected terminal 50 on the starter to the ECU
Replaced the fuel hoses except the supply line to the 3/4 fuel rail
Installed rebuilt and blueprinted injectors
New hose for the MPS
Installed the MPS in its location.
Looking forward to having the correct idle and working cold starting system.
Put in a Bus Depot order this afternoon for ABA fuel clamps, fuel hoses, and fuel hose protector, expensive order, but the ABA clamps are worth it and no sense just getting the clamps. Last time was here in just a few days, wonder if happen again. Got to get her running right so can get out of Ruby's way, maybe even pull Ruby to the parking spot (I will never do an engine or transaxle r and r on rock).
Per Ray Greenwood's advice to use Digi-Key, ordered replacement spades in the 2,8mm and 6,35mm sizes, male and female, plus a few ring terminals in M4 and M8 (the latter for Ruby's 6 volt conversion). |
What is the "copper grease" you speak of?
There should be "0" grease of any kind used on fuel injection terminals.
Ray |
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Adriel Rowley
Samba Member
Joined: October 12, 2006
Posts: 4748
Location: Mesa, Arizona
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| Posted: Tue Mar 29, 2022 7:27 pm Post subject: Re: Squareback Rejuvenation - A Soap Opera |
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In a couple days:
Installed a rebuilt AAR
Attached the firewall tin (no clue why I didn't massage it and install before the engine went in all those years ago )
Installed a new fuel pressure regulator
Greased all the FI harness connectors with copper grease, the black boots are absolutely disintegrating, been since took the NOS harness out of the box when first became custodian
Replaced old start valve
Thermo-time switch
Connected terminal 50 on the starter to the ECU
Replaced the fuel hoses except the supply line to the 3/4 fuel rail
Installed rebuilt and blueprinted injectors
New hose for the MPS
Installed the MPS in its location.
Looking forward to having the correct idle and working cold starting system.
Put in a Bus Depot order this afternoon for ABA fuel clamps, fuel hoses, and fuel hose protector, expensive order, but the ABA clamps are worth it and no sense just getting the clamps. Last time was here in just a few days, wonder if happen again. Got to get her running right so can get out of Ruby's way, maybe even pull Ruby to the parking spot (I will never do an engine or transaxle r and r on rock).
Per Ray Greenwood's advice to use Digi-Key, ordered replacement spades in the 2,8mm and 6,35mm sizes, male and female, plus a few ring terminals in M4 and M8 (the latter for Ruby's 6 volt conversion).
_________________
Please consider I am Autistic, so I process information differently and still working on social skills. Thanks.
Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810
1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation |
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Adriel Rowley
Samba Member
Joined: October 12, 2006
Posts: 4748
Location: Mesa, Arizona
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| Posted: Wed Mar 02, 2022 12:01 pm Post subject: |
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| Seasurfnbird wrote: |
Thanks! I ended up getting one copper 12mm nut from my buddy @Clatter that was just small enough to allow my socket head to squeeze past the upper right rear heat exchanger and drive it home with a 12” extension! Thanks for your help! Love the 1/4” ratchet too!
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Great! What is next?
I spy a trailer hitch, came with or you put it on?
_________________
Please consider I am Autistic, so I process information differently and still working on social skills. Thanks.
Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810
1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation |
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Seasurfnbird
Samba Member
Joined: August 11, 2020
Posts: 28
Location: Pescadero, CA
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| Posted: Wed Mar 02, 2022 11:23 am Post subject: |
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This solution! I’m going to try this on my 67’ Squareback. Installing a stock exhaust and the passenger side upper heat exchanger is in the way of my 13mm socket to tighten the upper cylinder 2 exhaust port nut to stud.
Maybe I’ll try a 12mm nut. Only a open wrench 13mm can barely get around it but virtually no leverage area to tighten it! This is still in the vehicle on a dirt ground, so not ideal but it’s all I got. I realize this forum was a while ago but thanks anyways![/quote]
I hope this helps and get it on.
As for working on soil, so long as no gravel, not too bad. Done a lot of that, still do now and then. A big piece of cardboard helps, partly as not getting grit into everything.
Speaking of getting into tight spaces, I absolutely love this Wright Tools ratchet. The size of a 1/4" drive with a 3/8" drive. Less money than a set of 1/4 inch drive sockets, especially as rarely needed. I also use it where don't want a lot of torque, like today the oil pan nuts. As a bonus, feels great in the hand. Maybe it get to the nut with leverage?
[/quote]
Thanks! I ended up getting one copper 12mm nut from my buddy @Clatter that was just small enough to allow my socket head to squeeze past the upper right rear heat exchanger and drive it home with a 12” extension! Thanks for your help! Love the 1/4” ratchet too!
_________________
67' Squareback
66’ EZ Camper
Jeff’s Bus Stocker Plus |
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Adriel Rowley
Samba Member
Joined: October 12, 2006
Posts: 4748
Location: Mesa, Arizona
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| Posted: Tue Mar 01, 2022 7:37 pm Post subject: Re: Squareback Rejuvenation - A Soap Opera |
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Tram makes a good point, with all that fuel dumped into the oil due to a faulty ECU, best to drain the oil before moving. Well, what should have taken about no more than an hour, turned into an all day fun...
Oil plate off, there is fine bits in the oil.
Also soft fibrous pieces.
Started to put things back when saw this. 
Oh nuts, a nut!  At least not chewed up. My guess was a locking washer for valve adjuster, though none are missing.
Popping the covers off, got an unpleasant surprise, glad I removed them. For the trip to the back, run without the covers.
Wiping out the heads to be rid of all the nasty oil while in there, found a broken spring washer for the rocker.
I swear I had an extra set of rockers, wasted to much time looking, so got the valves adjusted.
Finishing up number four, dawned on me the gap was as wide as a coat hanger, so got a piece, and made up a new spring "washer". 
_________________
Please consider I am Autistic, so I process information differently and still working on social skills. Thanks.
Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810
1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation |
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Adriel Rowley
Samba Member
Joined: October 12, 2006
Posts: 4748
Location: Mesa, Arizona
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| Posted: Tue Mar 01, 2022 6:23 pm Post subject: |
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| Seasurfnbird wrote: |
| Adriel Rowley wrote: |
Had trouble with the top right exhaust nut, and remembered that took half the time. I was able to remove the pulley from the shroud, and tried pulling the fan. Instead, the shroud started spreading.
While working, came up with an idea to get at that troublesome nut: 3/8 drive socket (way smaller than the half), and an extension. Came right out! Got the left top out the same way, and loosened …. |
This solution! I’m going to try this on my 67’ Squareback. Installing a stock exhaust and the passenger side upper heat exchanger is in the way of my 13mm socket to tighten the upper cylinder 2 exhaust port nut to stud.
Maybe I’ll try a 12mm nut. Only a open wrench 13mm can barely get around it but virtually no leverage area to tighten it! This is still in the vehicle on a dirt ground, so not ideal but it’s all I got. I realize this forum was a while ago but thanks anyways! |
I hope this helps and get it on.
As for working on soil, so long as no gravel, not too bad. Done a lot of that, still do now and then. A big piece of cardboard helps, partly as not getting grit into everything.
Speaking of getting into tight spaces, I absolutely love this Wright Tools ratchet. The size of a 1/4" drive with a 3/8" drive. Less money than a set of 1/4 inch drive sockets, especially as rarely needed. I also use it where don't want a lot of torque, like today the oil pan nuts. As a bonus, feels great in the hand. Maybe it get to the nut with leverage?
_________________
Please consider I am Autistic, so I process information differently and still working on social skills. Thanks.
Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810
1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation |
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Seasurfnbird
Samba Member
Joined: August 11, 2020
Posts: 28
Location: Pescadero, CA
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| Posted: Mon Feb 28, 2022 9:20 pm Post subject: |
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| Adriel Rowley wrote: |
Had trouble with the top right exhaust nut, and remembered that took half the time. I was able to remove the pulley from the shroud, and tried pulling the fan. Instead, the shroud started spreading.
While working, came up with an idea to get at that troublesome nut: 3/8 drive socket (way smaller than the half), and an extension. Came right out! Got the left top out the same way, and loosened …. |
This solution! I’m going to try this on my 67’ Squareback. Installing a stock exhaust and the passenger side upper heat exchanger is in the way of my 13mm socket to tighten the upper cylinder 2 exhaust port nut to stud.
Maybe I’ll try a 12mm nut. Only a open wrench 13mm can barely get around it but virtually no leverage area to tighten it! This is still in the vehicle on a dirt ground, so not ideal but it’s all I got. I realize this forum was a while ago but thanks anyways!
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67' Squareback
66’ EZ Camper
Jeff’s Bus Stocker Plus |
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