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oprn Samba Member
Joined: November 13, 2016 Posts: 12632 Location: Western Canada
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Posted: Sun Oct 28, 2018 5:28 am Post subject: Re: Official "What oil / additives should I use" topic |
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When it says "vintage engines" can we assume it means 40 - 50 year old worn out engines? I had a Chevy pickup that fit that. It had 416K of hard miles on it and would no longer hold oil pressure with 15W40. The next step would have been a 50wt oil to get a couple more years out of it but I gave it to the neighbor boy instead to check cows and fences with and to shoot gophers out of.
The rest of my fleet are not "vintage" enough to require anything heavier than a 30 wt. In fact my newly rebuilt type 4 engine was looking a litte high on both oil pressure and oil temps this last summer so I am thinking it really could benifit from a drop to 20 wt.
Before we all get too cranked up though, I am yanking a few chains here just for the reaction! In all truth I wonder if the weight of oil you run is more related to where you live. We rarely see temps above 100*F here! |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50261
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Posted: Sun Oct 28, 2018 6:25 am Post subject: Re: Official "What oil / additives should I use" topic |
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Vintage in this case would refer to the valve train and to the the oil temperature regulating system as much as anything. If you miraculously found a few cases of ancient "For Service MS" rated oil in perfect condition and ran it in a modern engine the engine would die a quick death. A vintage VW would not fair all that well either as the stuff was engine killing compared to newer oils. |
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oprn Samba Member
Joined: November 13, 2016 Posts: 12632 Location: Western Canada
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Posted: Sun Oct 28, 2018 3:10 pm Post subject: Re: Official "What oil / additives should I use" topic |
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Explain to me please the term "flat tappet", I am familiar with engines that run a the cam in the block and engines that run the cam in the head directly above the valves. What makes an engine have flat tappets? |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50261
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Posted: Sun Oct 28, 2018 3:20 pm Post subject: Re: Official "What oil / additives should I use" topic |
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If the cam is in the block and the drive train uses tappets, pushrods, and rockers then it needs pretty heavy valve springs to get this mess accelerating so that the valves don't float. The heavy valve springs mean there is more wear to the cam. The face on the tappets or lifters for this system tend to have a flatish shape.
A roller lifter even with a block mounted cam and pushrods would of course not be a flat tappet/lifter, and one would hope for very little cam wear even with the heavy valve springs. |
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oprn Samba Member
Joined: November 13, 2016 Posts: 12632 Location: Western Canada
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Posted: Sun Oct 28, 2018 5:50 pm Post subject: Re: Official "What oil / additives should I use" topic |
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So then is the Chevy small block a flat tappet engine too?
How about the water cooled VWs? you don't get any flatter than the adjustment shims that the cam runs on in those! |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50261
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Posted: Sun Oct 28, 2018 6:13 pm Post subject: Re: Official "What oil / additives should I use" topic |
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oprn wrote: |
So then is the Chevy small block a flat tappet engine too?
How about the water cooled VWs? you don't get any flatter than the adjustment shims that the cam runs on in those! |
Most every engine that was in use in 1970 was flat tappet.
The problem is the pressure against the cam because of the long heavy valve train that requires the use of stronger valve springs. When going to an overhead cam the weight of the valve train is significantly reduced and when going to a roller lifter/rocker the wear become minimal. |
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oprn Samba Member
Joined: November 13, 2016 Posts: 12632 Location: Western Canada
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Posted: Mon Oct 29, 2018 4:18 am Post subject: Re: Official "What oil / additives should I use" topic |
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So, not real cut and dried then. I haven't been into a small block Chevy in a number of years. Has the valve train changed in them significantly? The last couple I had definitely had cam wear issues! |
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balljoint Samba Member
Joined: March 28, 2016 Posts: 164 Location: Tobago
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Posted: Fri Nov 02, 2018 3:09 pm Post subject: Re: Official "What oil / additives should I use" topic |
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I've seen redline oils mentioned here and there in this thread but notice hardly anyone uses it.
I know its considered one of the best oils and supposed to be high in zddp and available in a wide variety of body.
Is it not recommended for the aircooled engine?
Too much zddp??
Price too high?? |
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67rustavenger Samba Member
Joined: February 24, 2015 Posts: 9665 Location: Oregon
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Posted: Fri Nov 02, 2018 3:34 pm Post subject: Re: Official "What oil / additives should I use" topic |
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balljoint wrote: |
I've seen redline oils mentioned here and there in this thread but notice hardly anyone uses it.
I know its considered one of the best oils and supposed to be high in zddp and available in a wide variety of body.
Is it not recommended for the aircooled engine?
Too much zddp??
Price too high?? |
You actually read all 219 pages of this oil recommendation train wreck?
See the very first post. For a synopsis of what's recommended engine oil.
Good Luck. _________________ I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!
There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo! |
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vwracerdave Samba Member
Joined: November 11, 2004 Posts: 15280 Location: Deep in the 405
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Posted: Fri Nov 02, 2018 10:01 pm Post subject: Re: Official "What oil / additives should I use" topic |
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Redline is too expensive compared to the rest. The competition is so great in the billion dollar gas/oil business that none of them are any better than the rest. There is millions spent on research and development that all of them are pretty equal. The best priced high ZDDP oil available is probably Valvoline ZR-1 racing oil. NAPA can get it if they don't stock it. _________________ 2017 Street Comp Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble, OK
2010 Sportsman ET Champion - Mid-America Dragway - Arkansas City, KS
1997 Sportsman ET Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble ,OK
Featured in Dec. 2001 HOT VW's Magazine page 63
Watch my racing video's http://www.youtube.com/user/okvwracer/videos |
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balljoint Samba Member
Joined: March 28, 2016 Posts: 164 Location: Tobago
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Posted: Sun Nov 04, 2018 6:47 pm Post subject: Re: Official "What oil / additives should I use" topic |
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So redline is ok then....not sure on the zddp content but I think I read 1200 somewhere.
I'll throw in some 10W40 then as I use that in all my other vehicles. |
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creebobby Samba Member
Joined: February 18, 2006 Posts: 10 Location: Whiteriver Arizona
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Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2018 6:26 pm Post subject: What oil smells the best when it burns? Testing done. |
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(I started a thread for this but I guess it got deleted for not being here)
I wanted to see if there's an oil that smells better when it inevitably leaks and smokes.
I wondered if a bio based oil would stink less, so I ordered some G Oil Bio-based Advanced Synthetic.
Today I did a smoke test of three different oils in a stainless steel pot on a camp stove. I used a laser thermometer to heat each to about 400 degrees, noting the smoking and smells produced along the way.
Here are my semi-scientific results:
Conventional Wal-Mart 15-40: Smokes like you'd expect. Smells like oil and some burnt rubber notes. Also has a sharp, caustic, almost liquor sort of smell that burns the nostrils.
Mobil 1 15-50: Smokes the most! Has a nasty skunky noxious smell to it. Stinkiest of the three at smoke temperature. I thought this would stink less than conventional oil but not so.
G Oil Bio-based Advanced 10-30: Smokes less than the others, especially at the lower end of the smoking range, around 320. Doesn't smell great but not nearly as noxious as Mobil 1. Definitely has that hot tire smell, maybe a bit of the rubbery chemical smell that flip flop rubber has, and also notes of something sharp and organic like celery seed.
Conclusion: The bio based synthetic oil would, in an engine with leaky burny tendencies, probably smoke less and produce less noxious fumes that the other oils tested. However, it's no bouquet of roses.
I've heard that Klotz Benol Castor Oil smells nice, and my dad told me that VW used to recommend pure castor oil for the break in period after a rebuild. Could a person use castor oil all the time? |
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EverettB Administrator
Joined: April 11, 2000 Posts: 69734 Location: Phoenix Metro
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WhirledTraveller Samba Member
Joined: January 09, 2008 Posts: 1399 Location: Cambridge, MA
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Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2018 9:31 am Post subject: Re: Official "What oil / additives should I use" topic |
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No matter how sweet it smells, burning used motor oil contains a multitude of nasty toxins and known carcinogens and you should avoid breathing it at all costs. _________________ 1977 Westy, Automatic. Big Valve heads, CS Cam. |
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SBD Samba Member
Joined: October 24, 2012 Posts: 3269 Location: SOUTH DAKOTA
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Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2018 6:23 pm Post subject: Re: Official "What oil / additives should I use" topic |
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WhirledTraveller wrote: |
No matter how sweet it smells, burning used motor oil contains a multitude of nasty toxins and known carcinogens and you should avoid breathing it at all costs. |
Just guessing, I'd say creebobby did this test with new oil. Could be wrong... _________________ "Just $99 down and $64 a month for 36 months buys you a brand new Volkswagen Beetle!"
mark tucker wrote: |
I wouldent waste $ or thyme on building a small motor. build it big so it dosent have to work hard.remember it's only as fast as your foot alows it to be unless you build a small turd then it just stinks as it squishes up through your toes when you step on it. |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50261
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Posted: Thu Nov 15, 2018 8:55 am Post subject: Re: What oil smells the best when it burns? Testing done. |
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creebobby wrote: |
I wanted to see if there's an oil that smells better when it inevitably leaks and smokes. |
Seems like it is better to just fix the leaks when they occur. |
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SBD Samba Member
Joined: October 24, 2012 Posts: 3269 Location: SOUTH DAKOTA
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Posted: Thu Nov 15, 2018 6:23 pm Post subject: Re: What oil smells the best when it burns? Testing done. |
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Wildthings wrote: |
creebobby wrote: |
I wanted to see if there's an oil that smells better when it inevitably leaks and smokes. |
Seems like it is better to just fix the leaks when they occur. |
Where's the fun in that?
_________________ "Just $99 down and $64 a month for 36 months buys you a brand new Volkswagen Beetle!"
mark tucker wrote: |
I wouldent waste $ or thyme on building a small motor. build it big so it dosent have to work hard.remember it's only as fast as your foot alows it to be unless you build a small turd then it just stinks as it squishes up through your toes when you step on it. |
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DeathBySnuSnu Samba Member
Joined: August 25, 2012 Posts: 1180 Location: MS
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Posted: Fri Nov 16, 2018 4:27 pm Post subject: Re: What oil smells the best when it burns? Testing done. |
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[/quote] Where's the fun in that? [/quote]
I wonder if you can get different colored smoke?
Like the tires that smoke pink.......
That would be fun......"What is that red smoke coming out of that car??????" _________________
modok wrote: |
And look at the SHAPE of the curves, just smooth, like gods own slingshot. . |
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Frank Bassman Samba Member
Joined: July 01, 2012 Posts: 892 Location: Miami
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Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2018 1:05 pm Post subject: Re: Official "What oil / additives should I use" topic |
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So I have some interesting information and I'm going to leave it here.
Called the phone number for quaker state to ask about their defy high mileage oil and zinc. Ended up talking to a guy named Chris in oil filters. Asked him about ZDDP levels in that oil and he said he didn't know, gave me this number:
1-800-237-8645
Apparently Shell and Quaker state are related? The main menu gave options to ask about Shell and Quaker state oils.
Woman named Allie answered when I selected lubricants from their menu and I asked about zinc in Shell Rotella oils.
She said T4, T5, and T6 have 1200 ppm of zinc.
Which confuses me since there is so much talk about the reduction of zinc in those oils...
I have personally always run Rotella despite the bad talk of it in the last 5 years and I have found no reason to stop running it based on the internal condition of the engines I have torn down...
-Frank |
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Rick Anderson Samba Member
Joined: September 28, 2016 Posts: 20 Location: Napa, California
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Posted: Mon Dec 17, 2018 11:10 pm Post subject: Re: Official "What oil / additives should I use" topic |
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This is so damn frustrating. Over 200 pages of useless crap. I don't want to be an oil scientist, I just want to find out what frekin' oil to buy. Example: Stock engine = XXX brand, yyy grade. |
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