What's your MPG (miles per gallon) fuel gas mileage FAQ

[richparker]

[Spezialist]

[SGKent]

bone dry an average air cooled bus will get about 285 miles on a tank.
_________________
“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[udidwht]

[SGKent]

[BusJunky]

[udidwht]

[mikedjames]

16-17 miles per US gallon, little change across three different engines and 69000 miles.
1641 with a progressive carburettor, single quiet pack exhaust. 185/65R15 tyres so about 5% smaller than stock. Stock transmission. Devon poptop bus.
_________________
Ancient vehicles and vessels

1974 VW T2 : Devon Eurovette camper with 1641 DP T1 engine, Progressive carb, full flow oil cooler, EDIS crank timed ignition.
Engine 1: 40k miles (rocker shaft clip fell off), Engine 2: 30k miles (rebuild, dropped valve). Engine 3: a JK Preservation Parts "new" engine, aluminium case: 26k miles: new top end.
Gearbox rebuild 2021 by Bears.

1979 Westerly GK24 24 foot racer/cruiser yacht Forethought of Gosport.
1973 wooden Pacer sailing dinghy

[Spezialist]

[melville]

_________________
2000 M Roadster
79 R100RS
78 R100/7
75 R75/6
65 Standard Micro
57 Sedan

[Tram]

_________________
Немає виправдання для війни! Я з Україною.

[Spezialist]

Mammories
_________________

[Abscate]

That asterisk on the Bus mph is a bit 'open' isnt it?

22,6 mpg...measured consumption plus 10%

So is that measured consumed fuel, then adding 10% to the fuel used (thus lowering the mpg number)

or

The measured mpg in miles per gallon, then 10% added to that number, thus raising the mpg number listed?

The mean here is still under 20mpg, which suggests the latter for the VW data.

Bug and Split data removed from that calculation.
_________________
.ssS!

[Spezialist]

[beetleman217]

So I took the advice of this forum and bought a beautifully rebuilt SVDA distributor from member wcfvw69. This is the 022905205S Bosch that is the correct one for my 77 fuel injected engine.

I had it installed at a shop by a known individual with 35 years of aircooled VW experience. That individual timed it at 8 degrees BTDC (instead of the 7.5 in the Bentley book) and swore that he's done that on countless engines and that's how it works best. I decided not to argue.

The vacuum hoses are now connected properly as per the vacuum diagram (now that there's a vacuum canister, unlike the 009).

The results I'm getting now in terms of fuel consumption are actually worse. When I first posted in this thread I had 14.5 MPG. Now I'm getting an average of 13.2 MPG, and what's far worse, is that the oil light comes on at stop lights (in idle) after a 10 minute drive. I revv the engine and it goes off, and while driving it's off. But as soon as I stop, it flickers and then stays on. ARRRGGGHHH

I miss the jolly days of the 14.5 MPG with the 009, which I had timed myself by hand with a test light. The oil light NEVER came on at idle. Any ideas would be really appreciated.
_________________
If all else fails, stop using all else

1977 Westfalia
1961 Beetle

[wcfvw69]

[beetleman217]

Hi Bill. thanks for the response. The engine has 4972 miles on it since rebuilt. The oil light problem started as soon as it came out of the shop after the distributor swap. I'm running 10-30 oil, and most of the miles (about 70%) tested for the new average of 13.2 were highway miles.
_________________
If all else fails, stop using all else

1977 Westfalia
1961 Beetle

[udidwht]

[timvw7476]

[quote="beetleman217"]So I took the advice of this forum and bought a beautifully rebuilt SVDA distributor from member wcfvw69. This is the 022905205S Bosch that is the correct one for my 77 fuel injected engine.

I had it installed at a shop by a known individual with 35 years of aircooled VW experience. That individual timed it at 8 degrees BTDC (instead of the 7.5 in the Bentley book) and swore that he's done that on countless engines and that's how it works best. I decided not to argue.

The vacuum hoses are now connected properly as per the vacuum diagram (now that there's a vacuum canister, unlike the 009).

The results I'm getting now in terms of fuel consumption are actually worse. When I first posted in this thread I had 14.5 MPG. Now I'm getting an average of 13.2 MPG, and what's far worse, is that the oil light comes on at stop lights (in idle) after a 10 minute drive. I revv the engine and it goes off, and while driving it's off. But as soon as I stop, it flickers and then stays on. ARRRGGGHHH


Campers are known to have 2-3 less miles per gallon as a rule, all the
camp gear & the top add load & drag. Does the exhaust wreak? Maybe
the fuel pressure regulator is gone loony. I get 23 mpg easy, 19 driving
like an idiot. Standard transporter, 2.0L, 4 speed & weber 34 ICTs.
The rear tires should be 39-41 pounds, 36 in the front tires.
The engine tuner, he is right about 8+BTDC being preferable to 7.5, the 2.0L
seems to like it, with 28+degrees, at 3,500 rpm without the vacuum advance hose attached. (plugged). The advance can, if it's working, will
advance that 28-30 degrees BTDC to over 40 degrees BTDC IF the can is good. You have to have the centrifugal advance gear working as well as the advance can to get full efficiency/drivability out of a Type IV engine.

[CarlosZ]

Averaged 19.5 mpg on a 260 mile drive to Mexico. Averaged around 60 mph. Is it advisable to reduce the height of the fuel nipple on the bottom of the tank? The new one I installed is much higher than the old one, reducing my overall range.

2.0L type-4 dual IDFs