MOFOCO - [email protected]

[[email protected]]

[Jonerin]

Well, anyway, I hope mine was tested, because I cant get it to go into first gear. In a few weeks I will actually test drive it for the first time, maybe all will go great! I switched around the tubes and welded on an old pair of brake line brackets. It took me 6 hours.

[[email protected]]

[anon emous]

i resisted posting feedback because i dont think it does any good and then everyone starts blaming the customer. but after Volksworld easily diagnosed the problem and only possible cure, i felt compelled...
this is the email chain from the day my engine became ready. there have been to my memory no other communications

https://youtu.be/u7g6v_1yssA
the original video and all other videos are on my youtube channel


From: Anon <[email protected]>
Date: October 20, 2020 at 7:29:54 PM EDT
To: Roy Henning <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Mofoco Engine Test Video

i just had to buy another motor... cant wait to show the youtube video of me shoving the mofucko motor into the dumpster!!! i will send you the link

Sent from my iPad

On Mar 2, 2020, at 8:26 PM, Anon <[email protected]> wrote:

that is horse shit. i am going to build my own engine then make a video of me shoving this Mofoco pice of shit into the dumpster. I will make sure you logo is prominently displayed

Sent from my iPad

On Mar 2, 2020, at 12:33 PM, Roy Henning <[email protected]> wrote:


Sometimes they need to be at 1 turn to stay pumped up as the extra tension sometimes causes them to bleed down.

On Fri, Feb 28, 2020 at 12:02 PM Anon <[email protected]> wrote:
I have all of them adjusted at 2 turns after zero lash.

As a test I adjusted the two valves until the lifters were completely compressed. You must remember that they are not pumping up so I can easily compress the lifter spring. I can actually push them in by hand. That is what I mean by “bottom out” it essentially becomes a solid lifter.

I used to have all of them adjusted at 1 1/2 turns but changed to 2 turns trying to get them to be quiet.

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 28, 2020, at 12:02 PM, Roy Henning <[email protected]> wrote:


I don't know what "turning it until it bottoms out the lifters" means. If you are doing it that way, that is a problem. The valves should be adjusted by screwing in the adjuster until it just touches the head of the valve(zero lash) and then in 1 1/2 turns. On the mushy one, do the same thing but only one turn.

If you are turning it in until the valves actually open and then backing it out; they will never pump up.

On Fri, Feb 28, 2020 at 10:52 AM Anon <[email protected]> wrote:
What I am trying to say is that I turned it in until it bottom out the lifters. The valves were just starting to open which is why it started running a little rough. There aren’t many threads left as it is

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 28, 2020, at 11:49 AM, Roy Henning <[email protected]> wrote:


OK cool, now we are getting somewhere. try adjusting it to 1 turn.

On Fri, Feb 28, 2020 at 10:32 AM Anon <[email protected]> wrote:
In, tighter.
I originally was adjusting 1 1/2 turns but went to 2 full turns after the lifters contact. This adjustment was 2 1/2 turns. Almost no adjustment left.
That was when I started thinking that the lifters were not getting enough oil. I bought an oil squirter and attempted to add some oil directly into the tube. It seemed to decrease the noise but not conclusive

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 28, 2020, at 11:12 AM, Roy Henning <[email protected]> wrote:


I don't know what that means. Did you turn it 1/2 turn IN or OUT or?????


On Fri, Feb 28, 2020 at 10:03 AM Anon <[email protected]> wrote:
Yes. I adjusted until it started running rough. But it was quieter

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 28, 2020, at 10:51 AM, Roy Henning <[email protected]> wrote:


Did you try readjusting just the one that was soft to a 1/2 turn in and then running it?

On Thu, Feb 27, 2020 at 2:55 PM Anon <[email protected]> wrote:
I did that test already. The lifters are not all pumping up

<image0.png>

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 27, 2020, at 1:47 PM, Roy Henning <[email protected]> wrote:


Please stop talking to me like I am just throwing my hands up in the air and telling you to go away. I am not. I am trying to figure out what a noise is in an engine I built 3 years ago using the audio from a cell phone video 2000 miles away. It's isn't an exact science. So, when you hear the noise next time, you need to shut the engine off and pull the valve covers. Have you tried my 100% fool proof method of checking to see if the lifters are pumped up? You stick a screw driver in between the rocker arm and the retainer. When you push on the rocker arm, if the spring compresses, the lifter is pumped up. If you rocker arm moves and pushes the push rod back into the lifter, the lifter isn't pumped up.

On Thu, Feb 27, 2020 at 9:31 AM Anon <[email protected]> wrote:
At this point the noise is driving me nuts. It should not be making this mechanical clacking. I will drive it until I can’t take it anymore and when it warms up I will build an engine myself. That is what I should have done to begin with then I would know what I have.

Again, all I wanted was a reliable engine for a few thousand miles with the least hassle. That is why I purchased a Turnkey engine, complete and as stock as possible.

It would cost more money to send it to you and for you to send it back that I would be halfway to my own build. With no guarantee that it would be better.

I hoped you had an idea why the lifters were so noisy. That is all I expected from you.


Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 27, 2020, at 9:48 AM, Roy Henning <[email protected]> wrote:


Again Anon, I don't believe your engine is in any danger of "crapping out" so you let me know if that ever happens and I will take care of it.

Roy

On Wed, Feb 26, 2020 at 11:44 AM Anon <[email protected]> wrote:
I will verify that there is no exhaust leak. But after that I will drive it until it craps out.

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 26, 2020, at 12:22 PM, Roy Henning <[email protected]> wrote:


The picture you sent me is for an aftermarket "oil boost" kit and is not correct for your application.

So, what would you like to do at this point?

On Sat, Feb 22, 2020 at 4:17 PM Anon <[email protected]> wrote:
they came out easy with a magnet and did not look worn, however they did not look like this
<image0.jpeg>


Sent from my iPad

both were barrel shaped . and were black in color.
On Feb 19, 2020, at 3:38 PM, Roy Henning <[email protected]> wrote:


Now that may make sense; as if it's stuck closed, the pressure is too high and if its stuck open, there isn't enough pressure and the lifters loose oil pressure and bleed down.

On Wed, Feb 19, 2020 at 2:28 PM Anon <[email protected]> wrote:
Yes. That is next on my list. I will remove and inspect both of them.

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 19, 2020, at 3:26 PM, Roy Henning <[email protected]> wrote:


That makes no sense. The oil pressure on a new engine is only 35lbs at idle on start up and drops to 20lbs when hot. Do you have the ability to see if one of the pressure relief plungers is stuck for some reason?

On Wed, Feb 19, 2020 at 2:23 PM Anon <[email protected]> wrote:
The temperature is 55F today. I drove around for an hour after changing the oil to see if the noise would stop.

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 19, 2020, at 3:11 PM, Roy Henning <[email protected]> wrote:


How long did you let it run after changing the oil? What is the temp outside? I have never seen oil pressure that high.....

On Wed, Feb 19, 2020 at 1:03 PM Anon <[email protected]> wrote:
I want to know why the lifters are clacking.
Sometimes the noise stops and the engine is what I expected.
It runs good. Just noisy

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 19, 2020, at 1:59 PM, Roy Henning <[email protected]> wrote:


So, at this point, what do you want to happen?

On Wed, Feb 19, 2020 at 11:52 AM Anon <[email protected]> wrote:
As I suspected the oil change to 20/50 did not change the noise.
I connected a pressure gauge and read 50psi at idle and 90psi at about 3000rpm
That seems high

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 9, 2020, at 10:56 PM, Roy Henning <[email protected]> wrote:


I am sorry Anon, I am really trying to help. Just please try what I asked and let me know. I don't like unhappy customers.

Roy

On Sat, Feb 8, 2020 at 9:55 AM Roy Henning <[email protected]> wrote:
Hi Anon,

I find it sad that you refuse to listen to me. First of all, I have been building engines for 30+ years and have personally built over 2500 engines with my own hands. I am an engine builder who happens to own a business, not a business owner that’s built a few motors here and there over the years. Second, I am one of three people in the entire world who can build a drop in hydraulic lifters for an aircoooled VW, I am generally recognized as the world wide foremost expert on hydraulic lifters in aircooled VW’s, as Mofoco is the only company in the world who can do it. Third, no recommendation from VW has any bearing whatsoever on aftermarket aircooled engines. You may be right that it’s not an exhaust noise but a phone recording is one of the most unreliable things to diagnose a problem. Oil changes are recommended BY ME and most other engine builders at 500, 1000, 1500 and then every 3000 miles. The purpose is to make sure the oil stays clean during the break in period and also alert you to any possible problems. Thin oil, that is gas diluted, will cause hydraulic lifters to not pump up. Thicker oil can and will help this problem. Your engine is FAR from defective even if it has a lifter noise. Also, we shipped this to you in Aug 2016. That is 3 1/2 years ago. If you only have 5000 miles on it, that is not a daily driver. If it is not actually driven daily, the lifters can bleed down and have to pump back up when you start it again.

I honestly don’t know what else to do for you at this point.

Roy

On Sat, Feb 8, 2020 at 2:41 AM Anon <[email protected]> wrote:
i have delayed responding because i wasnt sure what exactly to say.
the three comments you have made are absolutely incorrect. it is not exhaust noise, the heavier oil is not recommended by VW, and i am not “two behind” with only 5000 miles on the engine.
i was hoping that you would be less of a business man and more of an engine man, especially with the history of your father starting the business. if you truly cared then you would want to know why this engine is defective.
unfortunately, i cannot find a decent mechanic that is willing to troubleshoot this problem. they all say it is a defect that they dont want to touch.
i bought from mofoco because i thought that if i paid a premium for the engine then i would get something that would last.
my choice now is to abandon the car, buy another engine from someone else, or try to fix this on my own.

Sent from my iPad

On Feb 3, 2020, at 1:52 PM, Roy Henning <[email protected]> wrote:


Do an oil change. You are two behind. Run 20/50

On Mon, Feb 3, 2020 at 12:44 PM Anon <[email protected]> wrote:
5000
At 1000 miles
10w30

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 3, 2020, at 1:40 PM, Roy Henning <[email protected]> wrote:


How many miles are on it? When did you do the last oil change? What weight?

On Mon, Feb 3, 2020 at 12:37 PM Anon <[email protected]> wrote:
I drive every day

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 3, 2020, at 1:26 PM, Roy Henning <[email protected]> wrote:


How long did it sit from the last time you drove it?

On Mon, Feb 3, 2020 at 12:25 PM Roy Henning <[email protected]> wrote:
That sounds like an exhaust leak.

On Sun, Feb 2, 2020 at 6:27 PM Anon <[email protected]> wrote:
This is what it sounds like. Very loud.

https://youtu.be/qQ9S-33wDkU
Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 2, 2020, at 1:50 PM, Anon <[email protected]> wrote:

today i adjusted the valves again but this time only 3&4. the front lifter on 3 was significantly softer than the others. i could feel the spring inside the lifter. this tells me that it is not pumping up with oil for some reason

Sent from my iPad

On Feb 1, 2020, at 9:19 AM, Anon <[email protected]> wrote:

this problem with lifter noise is still ongoing.
i was driving the other day and suddenly all the noise stopped. i was going down the interstate and the engine got quiet and stayed that way for a couple of days.

this makes me think there is an oil flow problem.


Sent from my iPad

On Jul 22, 2019, at 12:12 PM, Roy Henning <[email protected]> wrote:


Have you checked the ends of the adjusters for any unusual wear?

On Sat, Jul 20, 2019 at 6:45 AM Anon <[email protected]> wrote:
i readjusted this morning and the engine runs perfect again.
i think a lifter or lifters are sticking. when i loosen the bolt it frees up and i readjust as normal. this time i went to two turns to see if that helps..



Sent from my iPad

On Jul 16, 2019, at 12:24 PM, Roy Henning <[email protected]> wrote:

That is very odd.

When you readjust the valves, how much farther do you need to turn the adjuster in?

On Mon, Jul 15, 2019 at 12:02 PM Anon <[email protected]> wrote:
I am still trying to understand what is happening. I am driving every day now. Right after I adjust the valves as described below the engine runs perfect. It is smooth, quiet, and responsive. After about 50 miles or so it goes back.
There is a distinct change.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 15, 2019, at 11:27 AM, Roy Henning <[email protected]> wrote:

No, they don't. I also haven't had a bad lifter in decades.....

On Fri, Jul 12, 2019 at 6:18 PM Anon <[email protected]> wrote:
Roy, do the lifters come out through the tubes on this engine?
I would like to replace two of them to see if this helps

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 9, 2019, at 11:15 AM, Anon <[email protected]> wrote:

From today
<Video.MOV>

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 9, 2019, at 11:07 AM, Anon <[email protected]> wrote:

Roy,
I have 2200 miles so far and the motor is doing well. I have adjusted the lifters a couple of times. https://youtu.be/dXEc4j6oC88
The youtube video is where it was but after adjusting it really got quiet. However, the lifters seem to be getting out of adjustment somehow as I have had to repeat the adjustment procedure a couple of times. The symptom is that the noise gets a little louder and the power drops off a little.

The procedure I am using is to get to TDC and adjust the cylinder that the rotor is pointing at then repeat at BDC. To confirm zero lash I am slowly rocking the rocker arm but am also confirming that the adjustment screw has a slight resistance. Then I turn the screw 1 1/2 turns and tighten the locknut.

What is unusual is that the back right ( #2 exhaust ?) is not as strong as the rest. My procedure uses a very small screwdriver so that I can feel the lash come to zero. With this lifter I could tighten all the way if I wanted whereas with the others not. If that makes sense.

Do you have any recommendations?

Sent from my iPad

On Dec 30, 2017, at 8:17 PM, Anon <[email protected]> wrote:

Roy, the engine is performing well.
There is one subject I would like your opinion and that is lifter noise. There is a good bit of noise that sounds like the lifters need adjusting. I recall that this engine came with hydraulic lifters. Is there an adjustment procedure that I should be following?

I recall from the old days that hydraulic lifters were loosened until they clacked then tightened up a bit.

Any recommendations would be appreciated.

Sent from my iPad

On Oct 22, 2016, at 12:15 PM, Roy Henning <[email protected]> wrote:

Turn it one more time to TDC

Sent from the new Mofoco Innovation Factory Floor


On Oct 22, 2016, at 11:10 AM, Anon <[email protected]> wrote:

Roy, I have not started the engine yet as I am finishing the details. I did notice something unusual that I wanted your input.

I put the engine at TDC and took off the distributor cap. The rotor is not pointing at the mark on the distributor but is pointing at No.3.

This does not seem correct.

<image1.JPG>


Sent from my iPad

On Sep 1, 2016, at 11:43 AM, Roy Henning <[email protected]> wrote:

Hi Anon,

Glad you got it all intact. Yeah, I haven't been doing the German
Rebuilt carbs for a while as I ran out of good cores. I have used
every brand new 34 pict 3 carb available from every manufacturer and
hands down, the EMPI one is the best. It's also the most expensive.
I normally don't include the breastplate and the firewall tin as the
original ones fit MUCH better than the stamped Asian ones. If you
don't have any, I can send you some brand new ones(no charge of
course) I can also send you the accordion tubes as well.

Please let me know and I will get it taken care of.

Roy

On Wed, Aug 31, 2016 at 4:56 PM, Anon <[email protected]> wrote:
Roy, the engine arrived.
The guys at trucking company said it was the best packed engine they had seen.

A couple of points I would like to talk about.
I thought it would have a rebuilt German carburetor but it came with an Empi.

Also, it does not have some of the tin that I would expect. Primarily the breast plate tin and the firewall tin.

Also, the clean air hose connectors to the exhaust were not included.

Sent from my iPad

On Aug 25, 2016, at 10:07 AM, Roy Henning <[email protected]> wrote:

Hi Anon,

No, I always run the screen as well. The oil can never be too clean.....

Roy

On Thu, Aug 25, 2016 at 8:30 AM, Anon <[email protected]> wrote:
do I need to do anything with the stock filter? I assume the plate is still in place, minus the screen?

Sent from my iPad

On Aug 24, 2016, at 7:18 PM, Roy Henning <[email protected]> wrote:

Absolutely!! The sound is always a little weird when recording outside with an I phone. Idles perfect, oil pressure is perfect, no leaks, firing on all cylinders(I check exhaust flange temps to confirm) timing is set, all the lifters are pumped up....

The only thing you need to do is confirm that the flaps are opening all the way when you drive it the first couple times. They did on the test stand but I want you to visually confirm as well as that can kill the motor if they don't.

Thank you again for the business. We will have it shipped out either tomorrow or Friday.

Roy

Sent from the new Mofoco Innovation Factory Floor


On Aug 24, 2016, at 5:51 PM, Anon <[email protected]> wrote:

Are you happy with it?

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 24, 2016, at 1:09 PM, Roy Henning <[email protected]> wrote:

<Video.MOV>


Sent from the new Mofoco Innovation Factory Floor

Order # 28706
Billing Address
Shipping Address






Payment Method: Credit Card

Item
Quantity
Price
Total
Dual Port For Bug, Ghia, Thing Ce161 (MFC-CE161) - TurnKey VW Engines
1
$3299.00

Electronic Ignition: Replace Points/Condensor

$70.00

Carburetor Choice: Rebuilt German 34 pict 3 Carburetor



Crankshaft Upgrade:69mm Counterweighted Crank

$160.00

Filter Pump:Spin On Filter Pump

$70.00

Clutch Kit Addons: Early clutch kit - fits up to 1970

$99.00

Hydraulic Package: Hydraulic Cam and Lifter Kit

$199.99

Heater Boxes/J-Tubes: Heater Boxes

$300.00

Muffler Options: Stock Muffler with tail pipes

$99.00

Please choose fan shroud: With heat ducts



Item Total:
$4296.99
$4296.99
Sub Total:
$4296.99
Shipping Method: Freight (Engines and other very heavy orders)
Shipping:
$ 500.00
Total:
$4796.99

[anon emous]

and i changed only my name and email address. the one in the email is not monitored

[esde]

[THall]

[[email protected]]

[anon emous]

[vwinnovator]

[[email protected]]

[anon emous]

What is ironic is that thesamba community has so many fine words for mofuco and yet they are such a horrible builder! does that mean that thesamba community is wrong about the others?

here it is sunday morning and my engine still clanks. this video was taken in a drive through at wendy’s. the car in front actually asked me to shut off the motor so he could here the lady take his order

https://youtu.be/u7g6v_1yssA

by his own words, mofuco said that the ultimate test for failure was if you could push in against the lifter. this means that the lifter is not filling with oil.

you would think that someone who personally built over 2500 engines would know what was wrong

[vwinnovator]

[anon emous]

[vwinnovator]

[anon emous]

[vwinnovator]

[anon emous]

[anon emous]

[EverettB]

Moderator note:
"anon emous" has a topic about his engine here, it's probably best to post any technical advice there so this feedback thread doesn't turn into a technical post and split any technical advice he is getting:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=745690

The person "Volksword" he mentioned is another member on here and posted in that thread, in case anyone was confused who he was talking about. I know I was since Volksworld is a the name of a very well-known British magazine "anon emous" is in the USA

"anon emous" - I noticed your thread is in the Late Model Beetle Forum.
It might be better to have it in the Engines section for more advice.
PM me if you want me to move it there.
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