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tclark Samba Member
Joined: November 21, 2005 Posts: 926
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Posted: Thu Apr 19, 2007 2:12 pm Post subject: FYI fixing the wire harness (where to get the parts) |
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OK just for the archives
and funny enuff the best price high temp loom is from a canadian company
drossback they supply
all the vendor listed under the wire loom section unless you wanta go fancy with the ConvoShield
Background
after 20 years of heating/cooling cycles all the exposed 2-3" of wire on the
FI injectors, hall sender etc
becomes brittle & usually corroded so if you touch the wire is breaks I
believe this is a 2 part problem
1) the plastic wrap for the wire harness has no thermal protection
2) those last 2-3" of exposed wire should not be exposed
The task was to replace all the fi connectors & cut the 1/2" of brittle wire
back & re-crimp the ends
and remove that plastic wrap and put the harness in the modern split loom
conduit with thermal protection
The problem is that no list vendors stock the special terminals or the
crimper for the special terminals, or conduit
So here are the vendor and the part number so that you can now get all the
parts online
Injectors 280150206 bosch, 16.1lbs/hr, 36.3 psi, ev1, L-Jet hardware
vw EV1 connector part# 037-906-240 Stealer Price $6.30 unit
The EV1 style of connector is common to a lot of older european (vw. audi,
bmw) and us (gm/ford)
in N.A. but the terminal end are hard to find in consumer quantities
terminal ends mostly use Packard/Metri-Pack http://www.metripack.com/
12077939 Metri Pack female 280 P2S (pull to seat) req'd 499 Die if using
the $$ rachet crimper
Removal tool ->15315247 12094430, crimp tool tool->12155975 12085271
tycho 286993, 1385313,
Professional crimpers
wurth crimper 551850
http://www.terminaltools.com/ T-11,T16 tool
http://www.ttiinc.com,
www.powerandsignal.com die-end HT22810499-5 waytex-509
Low Cost crimpers
Caspers Electronic 847-247-0484 https://www.casperselectronics.com
crimper 103021 or 103001, removal=108074 , terminal=504003
This is the real deal a rachet crimper $34.95
http://vintageconnections.com/Die-Sets.htm
http://www.eagleday.com/ampconnectors.html
Conectors / Boots
Bosch Part No: 1287013003 Kit inc connector, rubber boot and wire pigtail,
IMPEX SKU # 33860
NAPA Part No: 2-18457 connector with pins and short wire, no boot.
CRB218457
-> GM part# 12085491,1711799 MD-6151, MD-6152
NAPA Part No: 2-18415 connector only, no pins or wire. /www.niehoff.com
28419,
AMP connector 827551-3, boot 880810-1 Arrow- (604) 422-6900
NAPA Part No: 2-18414 Echlin#CRB 218415 boot, Borg warner
1-800-566-8334/http://www.niehoff.com/ 28418
AND the best deal is from MDS
MSD connector/terminal Part No 2400 http://www.msdfuelinjection.com/efi_accessories.html
Also those terminal end are Metripack 12077939 used on the MSD FI connector
http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=12077939virtualkey63000000virtualkey829-12077939
High Temp Wire Loom -40º to 300º F,
http://www.drossbach.com/ NDBS is the common part of the dross bach sku
http://picocanada.com in canada call your local flaps the can get this loom
under the following pico part#
1/4 = 5160-26
3/8 = 5161-26
1/2 = 5162-26
5/8 = 5159-26
3/4 = 5163-26
http://www.wiringproducts.com/index.html?target=dept_228.html&lang=en-us
1-800-549-0243
http://delcity.net
http://www.tessco.com/products/displayProducts.do?groupId=619&subgroupId=30
http://www.waytekwire.com 800-268-7445
Bentley-Harris ConvoShield part of federal mogul
http://cableorganizer.com/convoshield/
Last edited by tclark on Mon Apr 20, 2009 8:19 pm; edited 8 times in total |
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ChesterKV Samba Member
Joined: February 07, 2005 Posts: 1725 Location: El Cerrito, CA
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Posted: Thu Apr 19, 2007 2:32 pm Post subject: |
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Wow...nice info....
If I wasn't in the slow process of converting over to a Subaru EJ22 motor I'd seriously look into doing this project. Time has taken it's toll on everyone's wiring harness.........rebuilding makes sense to me. _________________ 1984 Wolfsburg 7-passenger stock sunroof
1992 Subaru Legacy EJ22 boxer motor installed.... van is now sold.... currently playing with a 1987 Toyota MR2 with 1.6 liter twin-cam motor. Better than the Subaru boxers....... I'm impressed. Well, okay, in an "apples and oranges" kind of way. |
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tencentlife Samba Member
Joined: May 02, 2006 Posts: 10067 Location: Abiquiu, NM, USA
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Posted: Thu Apr 19, 2007 7:29 pm Post subject: |
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Excellent! Thanks for all the info and links. |
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sandoz Samba Member
Joined: November 17, 2007 Posts: 86 Location: Denver, CO
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Posted: Mon Nov 25, 2013 1:25 am Post subject: |
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I know it's an old thread but another big thanks to tclark for compiling all this information and saving my day! The search is Jedi, just a bump for anyone else who might be caught in this fuel injection dilemma.... |
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bluebus86 Banned
Joined: September 02, 2010 Posts: 11075
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Posted: Mon Nov 25, 2013 9:09 am Post subject: |
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part of the problem with old exposed wires is the automotive wire used has cheap insulation. Teflon insulated wire would be the best choice, but it is costy, likely why VW and most automakers use the cheap stuff.
What I have done is sleeved the old wires with heat shrink tubing, that will add years to their life.
Seem the other important thing is to keep the motor clean, these wire insulations are effected by oils and be reducing exposure, they will last longer.
nice write up on part supplies!!!! |
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sandoz Samba Member
Joined: November 17, 2007 Posts: 86 Location: Denver, CO
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Posted: Mon Nov 25, 2013 4:06 pm Post subject: |
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My wiring is actually in great shape, I was pleasantly surprised to see that when I changed out the broken plastic connector for my auxiliary air regulator (all the boots on my connectors were good too). The NAPA part listed above saved me from having to pay shipping and wait for an order from The Bus Boys.... Best part of troubleshooting my cold start problem was finding out my thermo time switch was unplugged! I had my girlfriend turning over the car while I tested the switch with a test light at the cold start valve plug. No glow on my test light, so I dug into my stash of spare FI parts and pulled out my extra thermo time switch. Got my trouble light out and shone it down so that I could see to unplug the connector from the switch and lo and behold it was just laying there next to it.... Plugged it in and I was good to go, with voltage at the cold start valve and a quick start!
To top it all off, on the way home from my test drive I scored a really nice ratcheting crimper for $10 at a pawn shop!
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a1fa Samba Member
Joined: September 25, 2011 Posts: 585 Location: Central Arkansas, United States
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Posted: Tue Nov 26, 2013 6:38 am Post subject: |
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Good info. The hard to find parts are 6-PIN AFM connector, ECU connector, and double relay connector. _________________ Learn to ride. Ride to learn. |
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