Fix that Loose sliding door handle on an early Vanagon

[jlrftype7]

[buspor63]

[erdonline]

[jimf909]

Hello,

My '90 outside slider door handle broke yesterday. The only one listed in the classifieds was sold long ago (https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/search.php?submit=yes&type=text&section%5B%5D=57&keywords=slid*+handle)

Van Cafe and Bus Depot list an aftermarket unit that cannot be re-keyed to the ignition key.

Van Cafe
Aftermarket sliding door handle. Fits 85 thru 91. About the only thing that we can find wrong with these handles is that they use the Volkswagen Jetta/Golf Mk II/Mk III (AH code) key stock and therefore it cannot be re-keyed to your existing (N code) Vanagon key stock. https://www.vancafe.com/251843704EAFT-p/251843704eaft.htm?CartID=4

Bus Depot
Note, this is new production and it uses an "AH" profile (Golf/Jetta) key rather than the "N" profile key that Vanagons originally used. Therefore it cannot be rekeyed to use your existing key; however it may be possible to swap the whole lock cylinder from your old sliding door handle and thereby use the original key. https://www.busdepot.com/251843704e

Bus Depot says it "may be possible to swap out the lock core."

Does anyone know if the Vanagon lock core can indeed be swapped into the aftermarket handle? I'd like to have a handle that can be locked with the ignition key.(Attaching the two broken handle parts with screws and a plate is possible but I'd prefer a one-piece solution).

Thanks for any answers or suggestions.

(Yes, I called Bus Depot. They didn't have an answer.)
_________________
Current: 1990 Westy Camper - Bostig RG4, 2wd, manual trans w/Peloquin, NAHT high-top, Flash Silver, seam rust, bondo, etc., etc.

Past: 1985 Westy Camper - 1.9 wbx, 2wd, manual trans, Merian Brown, (sold after 17 years to Northwesty who converted it to a Syncro).

[AndyBees]

Thanks for the GoWesty link. I purchased a handle for my 84 (long one) about two months...... just haven't got around to tackling the job.

Maybe this video will motivate me!
_________________
'84 Vanagon Tin-top, ALH TDI. 1989 Tin-top

[Scamper-Van]

To anyone still reading this thread: GoWesty has a good DIY video that shows how to remove & replace a Vanagon sliding door handle.


Link


There are two different door handles: one for 1980 - early 85 vs. another for later 1985 - 91 Vanagons. Replacement parts may be out-of-stock & hard to find. These handles get a lot of wear & tear, obviously.

And yes, it looks like DRY graphite powder is recommended for the locks, not grease.

[cs44]

Just piling on...

Here's my destroyed sliding door handle. Good times.

[MacDude]

Thanks for the thread and the info from those on it.

My problem isn't so much that the handle is loose (it is a bit), but that it's so stiff to open that my wife can't do it a lot of the time. She pushes down but she doesn't have the necessary leverage. Now she's no weakling, she's just not as strong as I am. I give it a sturdy shove downward and it pops open.

Would taking it apart and greasing it help in that situation?



PS, the Key doesn't work on that lock and the rear catch doesn't catch anymore (spring issues), but that's different and not as urgent
_________________
'84 Wolfsburg Westfalia
'90 White Multivan (currently not running)

[AKWesty]

When I bought my handle from BD there were only two choices for the handle. I am assuming the difference between the power locks and manual. Not exactly sure though.

No choices for this kinda stuff in Haines. We are headed south next week and I have some stops planned along the way to look for random parts. Its the Alaska penalty. You can ship it here but its gonna cost you.
_________________
84' Westy 2wd
EJ22 - 4spd - Peloquin TBD
GW +1.5 Springs
215/70-16's

www.CatchTheKraken.com

"Never go to Alaska as a young man because you'll never be satisfied with any other place as long as you live." -John Muir

[westylife]

Thanks, AKWesty.

Yeah I was afraid someone was going to say that. I don't know about in Haines, but there are not any vans in the local junk yards here. Ill have to use the classifieds. I wonder if they are the same for all vans without auto locks?
_________________
1983.5 Westfalia Bostig RG1

[AKWesty]

Hey neighbor, I just replaced my sliding door handle because it was extremely loose. Upon replacing I inspected the worn areas of the latch assembly. The new handle is much tighter but I could see wear inside the door assembly and though better, it is still a little loose.

I took my panel off thinking I needed to adjust my cable. I PB blasted the rear locking mechanism but my cable was tight. Door opens and shuts much easier after PB blasting years of crud off the mechanism but the handle is still a little loose. I decided there was nothing more I could do besides finding a new handle mechanism off a salvage door.
_________________
84' Westy 2wd
EJ22 - 4spd - Peloquin TBD
GW +1.5 Springs
215/70-16's

www.CatchTheKraken.com

"Never go to Alaska as a young man because you'll never be satisfied with any other place as long as you live." -John Muir

[westylife]

Is there a way to tighten the front sliding-door lock? (p.58.3) I have changed out the handle twice and replaced all the hardware to make sure its all correct and the handle is still very loose. If I move the handle and watch the screw, it looks like the lock mechanism it-self is loose. No matter how tight I tighten the screw, the inner part of the door lock seems to be moving around.

Do these wear out?

Thanks for any help.
_________________
1983.5 Westfalia Bostig RG1

[ragnarhairybreeks]

you will find that you probably need to adjust cable in door that goes from handle to rear latch.

alistair
_________________
'86 7 passenger syncro, converted to westy pop top, project still in progress
'82 westy, diesel converted to gas in '94, now gone...
https://shufti.blog/
Old address still works...
http://shufti.wordpress.com

[DAIZEE]

I don't have a problem with the key or lock. For some reason or other the aft latch is not releasing. I can open the door from the outside but from inside I pull the handle and throw my body at the door and it opens real easily! Tomorrow I will slowly and carefully remove the door liner. Hopefully info in my on board Bentley.
_________________
'09 2.5L Jetta 5 cylinder, 5 spd, super turbo, see thread in H2O Cooled Jetta, etc...
83.5 Vanagon L Riviera Model with 98 1.9L TD AAZ 4 speed Daily Driver 3 out of 4 seasons (sold)
84 Vanagon GL Wolfsburg Westy WBX 4 speed (sold)

[wbx]

FWIW, my modification/reinforcement to the handle is still holding up after 3 years...

Just thought i'd throw down that little update.
_________________
'84 Westy (first owner).......but my daily driver has pedals
My "perspective" mantra:
A Volkswagen Vanagon is just a material thing,
As such, it is of the earth,
And if i need to, I can let my Van go.

[BulliBill]

Hi all,

I have a '87 Westy and I just noticed that my outside cargo door handle is missing about half of the plastic seal/escutcheon between the handle and the body. Now water will be able to get inside the door.

Question #1: Is this seal for an '87 handle to body still available anywhere, and if not, is there an alternative seal or fix. Or does somone out there have a decent condition used seal?

Question #2: Is there a write up on how to remove the inner door panel and outer handle to add a new seal for the "later" '87 Vanagon, or is the procedure the same as the "earlier" handle.

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction towards a new (or used) seal, and directions on how to get it done!

Bill Bowman
_________________
I'm looking for these license plate frames for my fleet:
Coeur D'Alene - Lake Shore Volkswagen
Mission VW - San Fernando
Thornton VW - Stockton

Thanks for any help!

[Dogpilot]

A good key is a key starting point. The parts that stick out on either side are part of the way they lock up. Wrong key will make some stick out on top, some on the bottom. You can remove material from either end, or as I mentioned, if it is a lot, not use that wafer. Sometimes re-arranging them can make it better, they are all different sizes.
_________________
Geology with a Syncro rocks!
86 Syncro Westy AKA "The Bughunter"
98 Disco I
08 Range Rover SC
08 VW Rabbit S
1951 O-1G

[vwsyncroguy]

I got it apart and now grasp the whole concept...Somebody really greased the sh__ out of this thing.

Got most of the thick grease off and removed and cleaned the wafers....careful of the tiny springs...haven't lost any yet.

When re-assembled, several of the wafers stick up a tiny bit...one more than others. Wonder if it might partially be cause the key is worn.

Also wonder if the ends of that spring that stick out past the cylinder hang on anything ?? Are they supposed to stick out like that?

Is the number on the square handle shaft the key code? Maybe I'll start by having a new key made from the code.

Warren C.

[Dogpilot]

Use some brake clean or other solvent to get the cylinder clean. The little wafers are spring loaded with incredibly tiny springs. The tumblers should all be flush when the key is inserted. You can pull the offending wafer out and see if it is the offending one by testing without it. You can either file the top down a bit, until it is level or remove it entirely. The lock will work with fewer wafers (be sure to get the little spring as well). You can re-assemble it with a little dry graphite. VW, oddly enough, uses grease on new ones.
_________________
Geology with a Syncro rocks!
86 Syncro Westy AKA "The Bughunter"
98 Disco I
08 Range Rover SC
08 VW Rabbit S
1951 O-1G

[vwsyncroguy]

I found the little set screw hiding under some hardened grease. Got the lock cylinder out...very greasy with graphite type grease.

Now I'm not sure what I'm looking for...the cause of the hang up that won't let me lock the door. It unlocks, counterclockwise but key sometimes hangs up and won't turn clockwise.

When I put the key in it appears several tumblers protrude a little bit on one side...recessed on the other ..particularly the last tumbler....it will mash down flush if I press on it lightly, but it doesn't just fall into place when the key is inserted.

So if the tumblers are recessed on oneside of the cylinder is ...that why it unlocks in the counter clockwise direction ??? ..then the one protruding on the other side prevent it from going clockwise??? I know this isn't rocket science, but I don't quite get how it's all suppposed to work yet.

There's a lot of grease on the cylinder....should there be so much? Seems like the friction of the grease could cause the tumblers to hang up a little when the key is inserted.

If the tumblers are supposed to fall down flush when the key is inserted...but don't...do I just file them down until they're flush?

Then there's the spring that returns the key to center postion. Confused about how to get that back in place. Am I supposed to put that on the end of the cylinder before sliding the whole thing back in.