Fridge Modification?

[MootPoint]

There are a lot of reasons to curse the design team at Dometic who created the Westfalia refrigerator but the one that causes the most distress for me is the fact that the controls for switching from 110v. to battery to propane are inside the 'fridge so when you change energy sources, all your (hopefully) cold air spills out when you open the door and diddle with the controls. This is especially true in the time-consuming process of lighting the propane.

So my question is this:

Has anyone considered/completed the 'fride modification that I have illustrated below? No, I haven't done this yet. I created this version through the magic of Photoshop and I think I'd try to find a junker door at a wrecking yard rather than cut my existing door, just in case.

I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work since the 'fridge seal is below the controls. But has anyone actually tried this? Does it work? Can you think of a reason why it wouldn't work?

Just askin'. And thanks!
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1984 Westy with tencentlife power!

[Wellington]

Great idea, I'd like to know if someone has done this too!

[Rhinoculips]

Last summer, I met a guy that made this mod. to his '87 Westy. He said that it seals well and had no problems doing it. I hope to be doing my fridge next week if time permits, but then I have been saying that for the last month!

I say go for it and let us know how it goes and I shall do the same.

[bucko]

Would it be easier to move that switch from it's current location to the left of the leftside burner knob?

Seems like that would be easier than cutting and resealing the fridge door.
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Current VW drives: 1984 Westfalia

Past VW drives: 1967 Beetle, 1973 Beetle, 1977 Bus, 1971 Military Type 181

[Rhinoculips]

The switch to select propane, 110v or battery would be easy to move and more convenient if you were only switching between 110v and battery. The problem with relocating the switch is when you run on battery then get to your remote campsite that is far away from a 110v outlet and need to switch to propane. Thus you would still need to open the door to lite the fridge. Cutting the top of the door off is the only way to have access to all controls with out opening the door.

[MootPoint]

I agree with Rhino here: Just moving the switch is probably simple, but not the solution.

I don't know about anyone else but for me switching to propane usually means having the door open for a couple of minutes while you pump, push, and snap (x3 or more...especially if you suddenly realize after the third attempt that you haven't turned the propane on at the tank yet....grrrrr....).

A friend of mine bought a really nice pickup-camper last year with a Dometic fridge and indeed the controls were outside the 'fridge. The engineers finally woke up. I can't believe they didn't consider this issue in the first place.
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1984 Westy with tencentlife power!

[noganav]

That's a great mod, but it's going to end up being ugly as hell.
What about cutting the door and putting a hinge there held closed with some rare earth magnets. Then you could open and close it as needed, and the casual observer would never know that you made a change.

[puravidadon]

Good idea, but don't you need the door open to see if it has lit?
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1974 Thing
87 westy (automatic) 2006 - 2010
70 dune buggy 2007 - 2011
98 Suzuki Sidekick 2006 - 2012
09 F-150 Lariat
Kona Fire Mountain MTB
Marin Hawk Hill MTB

[Wellington]

Last LED under the water level meter is going to tell you if you got it lit. Especially if you change it out for the highly visable blue LED.

[MootPoint]

My LED for the 'fridge propane has never, ever lit up, even when the flame is going full-tilt so squatting and squinting at the view-hole - sometimes for long periods of time and under a dark blanket or towel - is my only option to verify 'fridge operation.

I'd be interested in hearing about updating all the LEDs to brighter lights if anyone can offer info on that. My water level lights seem to work, but they are dim. The 'fridge light does nothing. And the battery lights, while fairly dim, never show higher than half-charge, even when my aux battery and the meter I installed for it show it to be at 12+ volts. Frankly, I've simply come to ignore all the LEDs. But if there's a way to make them work better, I'd love to hear about it.

As for noganav's comment, having the controls show doesn't seem all that ugly as hell to me, though it does change the...um...aesthetics, such as they are, for the cabinetry. But I think the hinged portion with magnets is a great idea.

cj
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1984 Westy with tencentlife power!

[ak_runner]

I have been perusing the forum for a while and finally got around to joining. As I understand the fridge LED upgrade from another list that I am on the popular change is to use Radio Shack part number 276-316 to switch to a blue LED that is more bright than the stock green one. You may also try lighting your fridge and then tap on the stock green light, ours usually only works once I hit it a couple of times. Just yesterday I made a note to myself regarding the blue LED and plan on picking one up this week for our Westy.

Mark
87 Westy Syncro
87 GL Sunroof Syncro
86 GL Syncro parts van - rolled but running

[noganav]

I replaced all the LEDs in my panel. The new ones (cheap radioshack) are much brighter, and consume much less power. My 1980 has no switch to turn the panel lights off and they would drag down the battery after a few weeks. The new ones have yet to do that even after a month of not starting it.

[Rhinoculips]

How easy is it to change out the LEDs? Does it require soldering?

[noganav]

Yes it required soldering, and careful placement of the new lights so that they still fit the holes in the trim. I'm a complete amateur solderer, and I thought it was very easy once I got the hang of it. I just replaced them one at a time and made sure that the alignment of each new added light was not too out of whack. I'll be doing another panel soon, and I'll post some pics of the process start to finish. I wasn't yet a samba addict when I did the last one, so I didn't think to document it.

[MootPoint]

I tried replacing the 'fridge indicator light yesterday with the Radio Shack 276-316 part mentioned upthread. No change in the outcome, though....the light still doesn't come on when the fridge burner is going and the little toggle switch is in either position. Nada. Zip.

So I don't know where the problem lies. For that matter, how DOES that work? There must be a sensor on the gas line that detects propane flow to the fridge burner, right? Howzitdothat? A little thermocouple, perhaps? Is that easily replaceable? Prob'ly not.

I haven't had a chance to experiment with the door modification that started this thread. I want to try it on someone else's fridge door first (any volunteers?) or on a junker (anyone know of any wrecking yards in New Mexico or thereabout with pieces of Westy kitchens? - Have Tools. Will Travel - ).

cj
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1984 Westy with tencentlife power!

[coolhandsurf]

there is an 84 with zetec conversion in the classifieds with a fridge mod that looks like what you are wanting to do.

[MarkWard]

My fridge light also seems to work when plugged into 110 or 12volt. I too wondered why the controls are inside the fridge. Maybe the engineers never actually used their product? If they had, they would have realized the problem.
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[spitsnrovers]

I'm also contemplating cutting the door - not quite as shown by mootpoint. It appears to me that that straight line either cuts through the labels inside the door, or if moved down to clear the labels ends up in the middle of the hinge - which wouldn't work!

So I propose using a fine bandsaw and making a curved cut from the top down, across under the labels and back up to the top. Then fitting a piano hinge so the piece cut out can be swung down to operate the switches.

On another mod idea! The fridge seems to be working against itself. It removes heat from inside the fridge, dispells it into the van, then tries to use that heated air to cool the fins on the back of the unit. Cunter-productive. As the temperature rises inside the van, the harder the fridge has to work to try to cool the inside. So.....

I wonder about making some ducting to allow the hot air from the fins behind the unit to be ducted to the outside through a shielded vent. On hot days and nights this vent could be open to the outside world. But on cool nights it is nice to have that extra bit of warmth inside the van, so perhaps the air could be vented as it is now, over the table and up behind the fridge.

Your thoughts?

[Kuhlbox]

[Rhinoculips]