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Replacing manual transmission drive flange oil seal
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june1ron
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 9:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks...definitely NOT the PN on the ones I got.

Hope they have them when I bike into the shop tomorrow...thanks!
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o-town
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 07, 2016 10:27 am    Post subject: Re: Replacing transmission drive flange oil seal -pics- Reply with quote

I just did this job, but did not keep close track of which way to put on the dished washer that goes between the axle stub transaxle side and the circlip.

which way around does the dished washer install? I have it "dished out" away from the transmission. putting less pressure on the circlip. Was already difficult to install it even like that
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pablum
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 07, 2016 11:17 am    Post subject: Re: Replacing transmission drive flange oil seal -pics- Reply with quote

It is supposed to drive the inner bearing race up against the circlip. So concave side in.
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o-town
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 07, 2016 12:13 pm    Post subject: Re: Replacing transmission drive flange oil seal -pics- Reply with quote

much appreciated. that is going to be a challenge to reinstall the proper way around.
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Syncro Jael
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 09, 2016 1:15 pm    Post subject: Re: Replacing transmission drive flange oil seal -pics- Reply with quote

Ever since my rebuild the drivers side seal would leak, then stop, then leak, then stop. So I checked the vent tube and it is clear.

Last night I checked and it was leaking just sitting in the garage! Evil or Very Mad

So I had the parts and did the job. I used a seal puller. Off in less than a minute. Lots of gear oil came out. Used a socket that was the same size as the new seal. Drove it home. Looked at the flange, the surface still looked smooth so I installed it all filled back up with gear oil and took it for a 100 mile drive to make sure all is well.

The damn thing is weeping. Not much, but still a little. Evil or Very Mad

I hate oil leaks! Hate hate hate them.

I am gonna run it a while and see if the seal will seat in. If not. I guess I will get to do this again and this time purchase a new flange. Dammit!

Ok, done venting.... Wink

Really really check the flange surface and make sure it is smooth. Idea
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larryaparker
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2017 5:15 pm    Post subject: Re: Replacing transmission drive flange oil seal -pics- Reply with quote

CV s and seals procedure: Greetings 6 sedans 1 van and been since 16 years old been turning a wrench (1966 1300). Get the drive flange transaxel seal out with a flat alum. say 1/16 thick plate and 3 1 inch long 1/4 inch nutdriver headed selftapping sheet metal screws engineered by you to fit the situation/mine was a 75 superbeetle 5 inches up on wood blocks (2x6x3.5 feet atop a 4x6x1.5Foot-3 of 4 wheels well chocked against vehicle movement...) Put the new seal s in with a little of that CV high pressure lithuim molybdenum staylube 14 oz from your grease gun loaded cartridge. Grease filling seal lips and smearing seal circumfrence/flange seal bore curcumference. Now/checks 1)you took notes on disasembly 2)examined the warpy washer that preloads the flange and keeps it from making noise/pounding the drive bearing race/drive bearing unless yor CV are real worn out, saw that the gap side of the warp/goes against the flange and looking closely discovered that a bit of bright metal shows here at the gap that was the result of well lubed CVs that nevertheless had worn out and caused the axel to pound here with a noise that caused much fear...in 4th load on it/passinger rear brake shoe tightened down 3 adjusting stars too tight...) 2)front to rear push/pull with new ebayed CVs installed yields 0 play, here any click plus play the CVs need replacement. 3) you examined your replacement seals 75vw transaxel and note they are wider by 5 mm/harder to drive home. 4) you understand that with this oversized/wider new seal you could seat it cocked on one side too deeply causing it to stick and so recheck depth every 60 seconds or so of seating manuvers at several places/4 places/I used a 6 inch steel rule graduated 1/32" Further if seated to where the old seal was you chance knocking the output flange bearing race complete with guts in...oh no... so after carefull inspection/measurements of the output flange, ect estimate that you can call it done when seal is 1/4 inch inside the transaxel casting surface you are working about. Start em with thumb pressure, graduate to using flat old seal tapping round with ball pean hammer (finger tips) till the seal is about level with the flange casting surface. I then used a 41mm 3/4 scocket inside the old seal, graduated to a naked 45mm socket pushed to the impact side with each tap (3 lb crack hammer/some used a brass punch/hammer??) -cavedin the replacement seal not good. PS 1) vice grip on the 12 flange bolts plus 12 pt not broken yet socket tool is not cheating and fair 2)3/8 nc bolt, few washers plus 2 1/2 inch muffler clamp (3 1/2 iches wide)drilled/engineered to fit as a Flange/transaxel splined hub compression tool to get circlip on/off 3)150w construction light helpfull 4)safety goggles needed 5)snap ring goes on 3/8 splined bolt b4 you screw it in 5)snapring pliers need flats filed on the reversed ends possibly...6) $4 50 cent sized flange cap seals drilled out 1/8 inch drill,2 place,s popped out carefully with awl/drill on penitration hits the axel shaft immediately I re used with rtv repressed into the flange with layer of alum foil carefully contoured to the backside and circumfrence trimmed to not catch as seal was reseated...cheap I am. You took twenty minutes to seat it/all good? Champion Get well, get well regulated/makeyourbattlefreedom
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Steve M.
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 07, 2017 9:51 am    Post subject: Re: Replacing transmission drive flange oil seal -pics- Reply with quote

Just an FYI for putting the seal in:
As opposed to using a large socket or piece of wood used a white sch. 40 PVC union. 2-1/2" size I think it was.
I did hold a piece of wood over/across the end to hit with a hammer instead of hitting the pvc directly so i can use it again!

Take your seal into Home Depot with you to get the right size. Very Happy

Having a Zip-Lock quart size bag to slip over the CV joints helps keep the mess down and the joints clean.
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DanHoug
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 07, 2017 9:56 am    Post subject: Re: Replacing transmission drive flange oil seal -pics- Reply with quote

my new seal did the same thing and i thought my flange passed the wear test so i'm doing a Speedi Sleeve when i pull it. here's a thread and SKF part numbers at the end of the thread but i'll pull mine and measure my own.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=564114&highlight=

-dan
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tencentlife
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 07, 2017 11:03 am    Post subject: Re: Replacing transmission drive flange oil seal -pics- Reply with quote

Coupla little tips on this job:

1. This goes for lip seals in general: for seals that weep even when the rotating part's sealing surface is smooth, or just for a little insurance, take the seal coil spring out, unscrew it and shorten about 1/8". That slightly increases tension on the seal lip and often that's all that's needed to make it run clean, it's pretty much why a lot of speedi-sleeve repairs work (excepting when a sleeve is used to repair a badly damaged surface). Don't overdo it, though, or the lip will overheat and you'll be in there again to replace your melted seal. As we found with the wbx Sabo mainseals, sometimes an important difference between a quality seal that works and a lesser one that doesn't is the size and tension of the lip spring.

2. Getting the output flange circlip seated with the conical washer pushing back: use a socket or a piece of pipe that fits over the splined shaft closely enough to push on the circlip as a driver. One good whap will compress the conical washer and the clip will drop right into the groove, works every time.

Personally, I'm marveling at that party-sized tossed word salad a few comments up. WTFF?
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 07, 2017 11:54 am    Post subject: Re: Replacing transmission drive flange oil seal -pics- Reply with quote

tencentlife wrote:
Coupla little tips on this job:

1. This goes for lip seals in general: for seals that weep even when the rotating part's sealing surface is smooth, or just for a little insurance, take the seal coil spring out, unscrew it and shorten about 1/8". That slightly increases tension on the seal lip and often that's all that's needed to make it run clean, it's pretty much why a lot of speedi-sleeve repairs work (excepting when a sleeve is used to repair a badly damaged surface). Don't overdo it, though, or the lip will overheat and you'll be in there again to replace your melted seal. As we found with the wbx Sabo mainseals, sometimes an important difference between a quality seal that works and a lesser one that doesn't is the size and tension of the lip spring.


Maybe one more thing to save would be the springs out of old seals that are headed for the trash.
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shagginwagon83
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2018 5:40 am    Post subject: Re: Replacing transmission drive flange oil seal -pics- Reply with quote

Doing this job soon as I found a lot of gear oil in my CV joints. I'm somewhat new to working on cars so please forgive my possibly stupid questions.

1. Does the rubber cover typically need to be replaced? From my experience its best to keep original rubber.

2. The orientation shouldn't matter putting the flange back on right? That being said should the trans be in 1st gear when I remove/pull the flange off?

Also - this was first time I used an impact driver. It worked great! However I do want to replace those bolts.

FYI I found that Buslabs and Weedle both have the panhead screws M7x1.25x13, part number N0901733

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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2018 6:17 am    Post subject: Re: Replacing transmission drive flange oil seal -pics- Reply with quote

If the lock plate is in good shape then there is no reason to replace it, but remember it may be in use for another decade before you replace a seal or have the tranny rebuilt again.

What is important is that you do not turn the big nut behind the plate and change the preload on the bearings. Punch mark the nut and case if you want to remove the nut for some reason.

There is no reason the tranny needs to be in gear when doing any part of this job, except maybe when removing the CV bolts.
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shagginwagon83
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2018 8:01 am    Post subject: Re: Replacing transmission drive flange oil seal -pics- Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
If the lock plate is in good shape then there is no reason to replace it, but remember it may be in use for another decade before you replace a seal or have the tranny rebuilt again.

What is important is that you do not turn the big nut behind the plate and change the preload on the bearings. Punch mark the nut and case if you want to remove the nut for some reason.

There is no reason the tranny needs to be in gear when doing any part of this job, except maybe when removing the CV bolts.


Okay thanks. I found a cheaper source for that lock plate at $6/plate. I'll pick them up and make the decision after cleaning mine up.

Here is my Weddle cart. It seems like they have everything I will need. I bought extra parts for backup/future.

Edit: I forgot the 091-517-295 spring washers. However I imagine these don't typically need to be replaced.
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2018 5:37 pm    Post subject: Re: Replacing transmission drive flange oil seal -pics- Reply with quote

I pulled the flange and found out my lock plates were cracked and chunks were missing.

However the seal looks to be in perfect shape. Ugh. Maybe it was just the atmospheric vent that was clogged that was the problem.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2018 6:14 pm    Post subject: Re: Replacing transmission drive flange oil seal -pics- Reply with quote

If the seal is leaking replace it. They can look very good and leak or look totally worn out and not leak.
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2018 6:02 am    Post subject: Re: Replacing transmission drive flange oil seal -pics- Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
If the seal is leaking replace it. They can look very good and leak or look totally worn out and not leak.

Good to know. I think my problems was due to atmospheric drain being clogged but I'd rather not take that risk and I'm already this deep I might as well replace them.


I have the same puller from Advance auto. Reinstalling the flange is the part I am worried about. I have pulled it and waiting for seals to show up. I am trying to figure out what you have going on here.

1. Is the bolt you are tightening with a 17mm wrench grabbing the threads on the inner side below? Or did you have to use a little 'step down' adapter included in the kit

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Thanks so much for the pictures. I am learning but it's amazing how much a little creativity can make these jobs.



vanis13 wrote:
Reversed the puller for install of teh flange using a 10mm bolt and an extra nut. I found it much quieter and easier.

Also when the flange is pressed down, the circlips were easier to install. There is enough room around the puller (now pusher) to finesse the clip into the groove.


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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2018 6:20 am    Post subject: Re: Replacing transmission drive flange oil seal -pics- Reply with quote

He is just using the puller as a big washer to help push the flange back into place. I usually just use a brass drift and a hammer to do the job. Lacking a brass drift you can just use a scrap of wood to protect the surface. Do not use a hammer directly against the flange because if you mar of the surface where the CV sits you will have problems with the bolts not holding torque and falling out.
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2018 6:33 am    Post subject: Re: Replacing transmission drive flange oil seal -pics- Reply with quote

I do have wood but no brass hammer. Might be time to pick one up. But is he simply tightening that nut to reinstall the flange? I have the exact kit.
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2018 7:00 am    Post subject: Re: Replacing transmission drive flange oil seal -pics- Reply with quote

shagginwagon83 wrote:
I do have wood but no brass hammer. Might be time to pick one up. But is he simply tightening that nut to reinstall the flange? I have the exact kit.



Yes he is just tightening the nut to force the flange into place. You don't need a brass hammer if you are using a block of wood or a soft drift, though a brass hammer is a nice addition to a tool kit. Wink
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2018 7:06 am    Post subject: Re: Replacing transmission drive flange oil seal -pics- Reply with quote

shagginwagon83 wrote:
I do have wood but no brass hammer. Might be time to pick one up. But is he simply tightening that nut to reinstall the flange? I have the exact kit.


Iirc, tightening the nut is what I was doing.. Like post above said the puller (pusher now) is just a big washer. The 10mm bolt threads into tranny axle stud and the flange presses on
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