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cocodc1 Samba Member
Joined: April 19, 2015 Posts: 4 Location: Redondo Beach, CA
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Posted: Sat Aug 15, 2020 11:48 am Post subject: Re: Replacing manual transmission drive flange oil seal |
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I tackled this job this spring and had a rough go of it. If your seal looks like the greenish blue mangled one in these pics, it is like plastic and hard as a rock. None of the screw or prying techniques worked. I found it much easier to remove the whole adjusting ring (you can fabricate a tool for this with a small oil filter removal tool and liquid JB Weld, using the plastic locking plate as a mold). Once removed you can drive the seal out of the adjusting ring using a 2 3/4" OD piece of PVC and a mallet. A few good smack will pop it right out and you can use the same to seat the replacement. As others have said, if removing the adjusting ring be sure to count the rotations out and be sure to mark your staring point with a punch. Do not try to mark with a marker, I found out the hard way that surface marks rub of easily on this part!
PS- I would listen to Waldo and check the atmospheric hole first. I found mine very clogged after all of this and it may have been the problem for me all along.
_________________ 1982 Westy |
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ScottShelley Samba Member
Joined: October 15, 2012 Posts: 596 Location: California
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Posted: Wed Aug 12, 2020 11:36 pm Post subject: Re: Replacing manual transmission drive flange oil seal |
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Just a word of warning on punching and pulling the adjustment ring. If you choose to go this route make sure to very carefully count the turns. If you hire someone to do this for you stand and count while they do it. If upon reassembly a turn is missed, you are going to end up paying for a transmission rebuild. Ask me how I know.(I was not the one doing the work) |
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T3messie Samba Member
Joined: October 03, 2017 Posts: 208 Location: Germany
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Posted: Sat Jun 13, 2020 9:36 pm Post subject: Re: Replacing manual transmission drive flange oil seal |
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Under the circlip. |
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zbug Samba Member
Joined: December 28, 2013 Posts: 84 Location: nevada
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Posted: Sat Jun 13, 2020 4:17 pm Post subject: Re: Replacing manual transmission drive flange oil seal |
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maybe a stupid question, but in what order do the parts go back on? I'm working on a new project. so there was no disassembly. does the concave spacer (washer) go under the flange, or under the circlip? Thank you |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50255
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Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2020 1:17 pm Post subject: Re: Replacing manual transmission drive flange oil seal |
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I suspect from the level of dirt behind the plastic lock plate your seal was damaged by the dirt build up. If you are continually driving really nasty roads, you may consider pulling the lock plate whenever you have access (like when servicing the CV's) and clean out the dirt build up. |
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mrshrimp Samba Member
Joined: March 24, 2013 Posts: 373 Location: Portland
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Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2020 12:58 pm Post subject: Re: Replacing manual transmission drive flange oil seal |
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By atmospheric bleed you mean hose line that runs off the top? Good tip, too late for me but i will check that anyway. |
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?Waldo? Samba Member
Joined: February 22, 2006 Posts: 9752 Location: Where?
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Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2020 10:54 am Post subject: Re: Replacing manual transmission drive flange oil seal |
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Be sure to clean the atmospheric bleed before doing this repair. Often times the drive flange seal leaks will disappear when the drain is cleaned, and even brand new seals will leak if it is clogged. |
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4Gears4Tires Samba Member
Joined: October 08, 2018 Posts: 2982 Location: MD
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Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2020 6:08 am Post subject: Re: Replacing manual transmission drive flange oil seal |
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Do you live on Tatooine? _________________ '87 Syncro
Ferric Oxyhydroxide Superleggera Edition |
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mrshrimp Samba Member
Joined: March 24, 2013 Posts: 373 Location: Portland
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Posted: Sun Apr 19, 2020 11:27 am Post subject: Re: Replacing manual transmission drive flange oil seal |
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Just completed this job. I would recommend to anyone doing this to just but a seal puller, as opposed to the screw method. I bought one for $14 and it made the old seal extremely easy to remove. Here are some pics.
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50255
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Posted: Sat Nov 16, 2019 12:15 pm Post subject: Re: Replacing transmission drive flange oil seal -pics- |
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tuanis wrote: |
mrshrimp wrote: |
I have a slow trans leak and looks like its due to the flange seal. This may be a dumb question, but this job can be done without draining tranny? Any other tips would be appreciate. I did read through the other threads and feel like i have a good grasp of the job. What is the easiest way to get new seal in?
Thanks for the help.
Keith |
I'm about to tackle this myself and am wondering the same thing - do I need to drain the tranny before pulling the seals? Or is the oil level lower than the seal? |
No need to drain, but getting the side you are working on up high enough to give you elbow room is important.
This seal is harder to start then some because it is both recessed and has a shaft sticking up in the middle of it. A large diameter socket it nice, but few will have that. Not sure if there is a PVC pipe fitting of the right diameter either. For most it takes some careful work with a hammer and some kind of drift. |
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tencentlife Samba Member
Joined: May 02, 2006 Posts: 10067 Location: Abiquiu, NM, USA
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Posted: Sat Nov 16, 2019 11:42 am Post subject: Re: Replacing manual transmission drive flange oil seal |
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No need to drain. _________________ Shop for unique Vanagon accessories at the Vanistan shop:
https://intrepidoverland.com/vanistan/
Please don't PM here, I will not reply.
Experience is kryptonite to doctrine. |
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tuanis Samba Member
Joined: March 20, 2019 Posts: 20 Location: Oregon
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Posted: Sat Nov 16, 2019 11:41 am Post subject: Re: Replacing transmission drive flange oil seal -pics- |
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mrshrimp wrote: |
I have a slow trans leak and looks like its due to the flange seal. This may be a dumb question, but this job can be done without draining tranny? Any other tips would be appreciate. I did read through the other threads and feel like i have a good grasp of the job. What is the easiest way to get new seal in?
Thanks for the help.
Keith |
I'm about to tackle this myself and am wondering the same thing - do I need to drain the tranny before pulling the seals? Or is the oil level lower than the seal? _________________ 1989 Westfalia - 2.5L Subie
1988 VW Westfalia - Stolen |
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Stevied84westy Samba Member
Joined: April 05, 2014 Posts: 18 Location: Stagecoach, America
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Posted: Fri Aug 16, 2019 2:42 pm Post subject: Re: Replacing manual transmission drive flange oil seal |
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Hello and thanks for in input.
As for the four holes I did have metal purchase on the backside but thanks I know that is important for the method. I'll be back under the Van mid-week and will report on progress.
The Lisle seal puller just tore a hole. Thinking about a cross brace piece of metal to increase pressure and save scoring the Aluminum.
Thanks,
Steve |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50255
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Posted: Thu Aug 15, 2019 10:45 am Post subject: Re: Replacing manual transmission drive flange oil seal |
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Stevied84westy wrote: |
Hello Campers.
OK, in a bit of a pickle with regards to replacing a tired and leaking oil seal in my 84' Westy. Followed the trail, (do the search my son.) Ended up here and read with great enthusiasm about the simplicity of this repair.
Alas, tried the one screw method, then two with each attempt netting zero progress. Increased screw size as well as adding the BFH factor and finally trying the seal puller tool.
Pic attached shows the carnage on the seal and maybe a MM of movement. But I dare not try any larger screws for fear of scaring the soft aluminum in the carrier.
Any thoughts, other than selling the damn thing, are welcome.
Thanks in advance!
-Steve
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Your screw holes are missing the metal ring that makes up the outside of the seal. For this method to work you need a small hole out near the edge of the seal.
One of the kinda "T" shaped seal pullers like you can get at AutoZone or Oreilleys will work with this seal.
Another option is to punch mark the adjustment ring and the case and then remove the ring and knock the seal out from behind. The ring may or may not unscrew easily without a special tool for the job. |
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T3messie Samba Member
Joined: October 03, 2017 Posts: 208 Location: Germany
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Posted: Wed Aug 14, 2019 9:29 pm Post subject: Re: Replacing manual transmission drive flange oil seal |
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A heatgun will soften everything a little, then try new holes/screws. |
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shagginwagon83 Samba Member
Joined: February 07, 2016 Posts: 3786 Location: VA/TN
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Posted: Tue Aug 13, 2019 3:29 pm Post subject: Re: Replacing manual transmission drive flange oil seal |
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This is an idea from another thread. Not sure what else to try so go at your own risk.
Quote: |
Wrap some tape on the end of the long flat screw driver to avoid scratching anything. Then insert the end behind the seal and pry away! |
_________________ Brandon
"Jo Ann" - '83.5 Westfalia EJ22e w/Peloquin
Instagram @joannthevan |
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Stevied84westy Samba Member
Joined: April 05, 2014 Posts: 18 Location: Stagecoach, America
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Posted: Tue Aug 13, 2019 3:18 pm Post subject: Re: Replacing manual transmission drive flange oil seal |
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Hello Campers.
OK, in a bit of a pickle with regards to replacing a tired and leaking oil seal in my 84' Westy. Followed the trail, (do the search my son.) Ended up here and read with great enthusiasm about the simplicity of this repair.
Alas, tried the one screw method, then two with each attempt netting zero progress. Increased screw size as well as adding the BFH factor and finally trying the seal puller tool.
Pic attached shows the carnage on the seal and maybe a MM of movement. But I dare not try any larger screws for fear of scaring the soft aluminum in the carrier.
Any thoughts, other than selling the damn thing, are welcome.
Thanks in advance!
-Steve
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mrshrimp Samba Member
Joined: March 24, 2013 Posts: 373 Location: Portland
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Posted: Wed May 01, 2019 11:40 am Post subject: Re: Replacing transmission drive flange oil seal -pics- |
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I have a slow trans leak and looks like its due to the flange seal. This may be a dumb question, but this job can be done without draining tranny? Any other tips would be appreciate. I did read through the other threads and feel like i have a good grasp of the job. What is the easiest way to get new seal in?
Thanks for the help.
Keith |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50255
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Posted: Thu Jul 19, 2018 10:36 pm Post subject: Re: Replacing transmission drive flange oil seal -pics- |
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shagginwagon83 wrote: |
Here are some pictures below. I had a question regarding the plastic part of this job. I took a video before I removed it, but is the only purpose of the plastic piece to protect dirt from getting to the seal? Reason I ask is because the plastic piece can be but at wrong placement. |
The plastic "shields are the locks for the large sidebearing adjusting nuts which set the backlash and preload for the differential. The plastic needs to be in good enough condition to last until work is done on the transmission again on some future date. |
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shagginwagon83 Samba Member
Joined: February 07, 2016 Posts: 3786 Location: VA/TN
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Posted: Thu Jul 19, 2018 8:18 pm Post subject: Re: Replacing transmission drive flange oil seal -pics- |
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It worked like a charm. Thanks Vanis. I could not find a M10x1.5 bolt long enough to work. All the bolts at Home Depot/Fastenal didn't have threads in the center once longer than 50mm.
So I bought a 30mm bolt and like a 2 foot piece of a 'thread rod' (don't know proper name. Dropped it off at my dad's work for him to weld together. I may have told him a little too much length on the rod...but it worked great.
Here are some pictures below. I had a question regarding the plastic part of this job. I took a video before I removed it, but is the only purpose of the plastic piece to protect dirt from getting to the seal? Reason I ask is because the plastic piece can be but at wrong placement.
Also I put a coat of permatex copper on the cap before I pushed it into place. I'm letting it harden 24hours before I put axles back on.
OH. I almost forgot. I bought a 1.5" (i think, maybe 2") PVC end cap for $1 to put the new seal in. It worked great! I would highly recommend spending $1. Each side took less than 2 minutes to insert seal.
_________________ Brandon
"Jo Ann" - '83.5 Westfalia EJ22e w/Peloquin
Instagram @joannthevan |
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