2.1 oil pressure questions

[Zeitgeist 13]

Yeah, there are a number of commercially available kits very similar to what I'm contemplating, so I don't question the viability of the basic design. Just want to be assured that I'm not missing some "catch" regarding the use of a brake hose, vs. a nice stainless braided piece. I'm long-term unemployed, so money's tight right now. The hose is an Italian-made Semperit (Meyle), and appears to be decent kwality. I'll heat-shield if needed.

Just drove it hard in 80F weather and nary a sound from Doctor Beeper

_________________
Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[denwood]

Ahh, Casey, so the question is, is a flex brake hose OK with hot engine oil. My answer would be not to risk it unless you are 100% sure that a brake system filled with engine oil won't cause issues . Engine oil and brake seals are certainly not compatible if you're talking DOT 3 or 4 (poly glycol based) systems. You could likely get a hose done up at your local Hydraulic shop cheap and quick...my favorite goto for oil plumbing

To answer my own question on air in the manifold..a non issue unless gauge response time is critical. Kind of a dumb point on my part as the accusump pre-oiler sitting in my van measures pressure on the air charged side of the internal pressure bladder. Ha.

When I first built up the i4 engine in my van, oil pressure on the highway was bouncing all over the place. Turns out it was "air in the oil" but caused by the Audi 2.0 crank making contact with the oil in the diesel pan. Frank Grunthaler over at Gerry pointed me to this with his bore scope visualization of the crankcase in full flight. $35 GTI windage tray installed between crank and oil pan...all fixed.
_________________
Cheers,
Dennis Wood
The Grape

[Zeitgeist 13]

That's a great tip about the windage tray. ^

I finally got the oil sender plumbed up. I ended up using two new MB 124 brake hoses coupled together, and then that Audi distribution block. I didn't even need to alter oil switch wiring. I used a dremel to cut out a recess in the pushrod shield to clear the hose, and then wrapped it with a exhaust heat blanket, also from the same Audi.

The engine shows about 10-12psi @ hot idle. Will monitor after the next hot freeway run.

Filthy:

Tangential question: Are WBX exhaust port fasteners supposed to be studs or bolts? I had one of each. Damned happy I didn't bust one off.
_________________
Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[PDX_Greg]

Recently installed an OP gauge on my 2.1 WBX that has 67k on rebuilt engine. I was hoping for better statistics, given the relatively lowi-ish miles. At idle it reads 10 psi, not great, but ok. At 3000 rpm is hovers around 21-22 psi, so according to tencent's excellent eassay, this is cause for concern. It does, however, raise up to 30 psi, at 4000 rpms so it doesn't quite fit his scenario below. Should I be looking to replace the oil pump, or just monitor for changes, or start saving for a rebuild/swap? Running Mobil 15-50 it it. Just drove 600 miles, I feel like I watched the gauge more than the road.

"If you notice that the OP is Ok at idle but rises to the low 20's and no higher as revs increase, and the engine has mileage less than stated above, the oil pump may merely have excessive wear. In this case I feel it is worthwhile to replace the pump and pressure relief valve, and run the tests again. Before doing so, though, you should set up a dial indicator or feeler gauge stop at the crankshaft pulley, relieve the clutch arm pressure, and measure the crank endplay. If it is outside wear limits, then the engine is in need of overhaul and even though a new pump may improve OP, it is basically a waste of time. "
_________________
1987 Full Camper Westfalia, 2.1 WBX

[LittleMicroCars]

take the pressure release plunger spring out and remove the plunger ... widdle a wooden stick to the end of the plunger and push it back in the bore as far as it will go.. then pull it back out about a 1/2" and see if you can wiggle the stick in the bore If its loose in the bore this is where you are loosing oil pressure because the bore has worn out... a new plunger will not fix the problem. Replace the plunger with a ball bearing check valve assembly You can get them from Head Flow Masters. I phone 760-801-8516 . Takes about 15 -20 minutes to do Leo
_________________
Importer of Steyr Puch rally cars, military Jeeps, and air cooled parts Vienna, Austria

[Yondermtn]

http://www.gowesty.com/library_article.php?id=810

According to this write-up, paragraph 5 states that the computer is generally replaced first. Is this computer even available? I'm just curious what it looks like and find it odd that the article states it is commonly replaced first yet I can't even find it.


I just had my buzzer come on twice under similar conditions: after warmed up and rpm above 2,000. I figured, time to replace the .9 bar switch.
Then last night the buzzer came on with engine cool and under 2,000 rpm.
_________________
1977 Westfalia 2.0FI 4spd
1990 Multivan 2.1 Auto

[Aerosport]

Since this thread is about oil pressure and gauges etc. Does anyone know what size threads the oil filter I on a 2.1 engine I am going to install an OP gauge and want to use one of the sandwich plates that have multiple holes in them for gauge senders, but they come in various thread sizes to screw on to the oil filter fitting. I'm being lazy and instead of looking or measuring I figure I would ask the board to see if anyone knew the size off the top of their head I think it is 3/4 UNF-16 but not sure
_________________
Stan L

'87 Westy GL - "Stanagon", 2wd WBX 4 speed
15" Rhein alloys, GW 1.5" lift springs & Fox shocks

[Vanagon Nut]

So... with VOM on high pressure switch brown wire, engine off, I saw no
continuity to ground. With engine running (cold), I saw continuity to ground.
Revving engine did not disrupt continuity nor did moving the wire around.
After test, connected brown to yellow wire, started engine buzzer/light came on
at first rev to 2000 + RPM.

Does this likely mean oil pressure and switch are ok?

Back story: oil buzzer/light randomly came on. Replaced white- light grey high
pressure oil switch along with new terminal and wire piece to brown wire. Issue
stopped. Recently, on a hot day, issue started again, but would also happen on
colder days, engine warm or cold not hot.

Installed washer at oil pressure relief spring seat, swapped 719/5 to 179/12 oil filter.

I bought a cheap oil pressure gauge for testing purposes, have not ruled out
corrosion at yellow wire, T7a connector, T14 connector at cluster or ribbon
as cause of issue. I may run a new test wire from oil pressure switch to wire at
T14 connector at cluster.

FWIW, in sheer desperation, I found that a pry bar-nail puller worked to get that
stupid oil pressure relief bolt out. Ironically, turns out this rusted out tool owner
left in side yard to rot, or for someone to step on, is pretty handy.


Neil.

similar to what I used

_________________
1981 Westy DIY 15º ABA

1988 West DIY 50º ABA

VE7TBN

[jwallis]

So Tencent has given us a floor for what the pressure should be at various RPMs, is there a "typical" or "expected" for a used engine? I know it varies, but let's just say around 100k, normal use...
I don't know if I can stomach a $7 conversion right now, but I'm learning that my $1k 1.9->2.1 swap solution may be a failure due to a crap donor engine, so I'm fairly pissed about it. Supposed to go on a roadtrip in a month.
GUESS I'LL TAKE THE FORD. AGAIN. FAN-F'N-TASTIC.
_________________
TheVanTracker.com - Kill Switch + GPS Tracker + Door-open alerts, made specifically for the Vanagon!
50+ YouTube videos - brakes, bearings, CV joints, 1.9/2.1 cooling system, mods, Bostig and more...

[dhaavers]

Pretty ideal is 8-10 psi at idle, then additional 10 psi/1k rpm's...

What numbers do you have?
_________________
86 White Wolfsburg Westy Weekender
"The WonderVan"
<EDITED TO PROTECT INNOCENT PIXELS>

[16CVs]

[jwallis]

[jimf909]

[jwallis]

[jimf909]

I try not to be overly enthusiastic because I have more to learn, but I love the Bostig. It's transformed my vanagon experience. Driveability of the van has increased tremendously. Using the van as a daily driver on I-5 traffic is reasonable in that I can easily keep up with traffic, change lanes, merge, etc. Traveling over mountain passes is much easier. The motor is smooth and perceived reliability has increased greatly (hopefully that becomes actual reliability after this summer's travels). The install is super-clean, looks so much better than the wbx rats nest and is easy to navigate. I get 18-20 mpg in a full camper with a box and basket on the roof rack. Mileage drops if I'm on the gas often. The obdII port with an Ultragauge is a nice advancement.

So far, so good...
_________________
- Jim

[jwallis]

[hdenter]

There are a couple of reasons that you might hear of more "problems" with subi swaps than bostig. One, they supply everything except the motor in a complete kit giving complete control of the components. Two, because a lot of subi swaps are DIY, there is a greater chance of builder error. People coble together brackets from one place and wiring from someone else and the bell housing/ from a third party. Lots of opportunities for minor errors. Thirdly, there are a lot more subi swaps on the road than there are bostigs. I would not necessarily hold that against the subi. The shops that do them often and the DIYers that plan well and pay attention to detail have very little trouble. The bostig has a great record and a loyal following, but I think the subi offers a lot more options for power levels and overall has a l fit and feel that is more in line with the original WBXer. Just MHO... Good Luck!!

Hans
_________________
'79 triple white convertible bug
'84 sunroof vanagon
'85 weekender

[jimf909]

[jwallis]

Good points, esp about the difference in # of swaps done...
_________________
TheVanTracker.com - Kill Switch + GPS Tracker + Door-open alerts, made specifically for the Vanagon!
50+ YouTube videos - brakes, bearings, CV joints, 1.9/2.1 cooling system, mods, Bostig and more...

[Merian]

Are there any connectors between the engine compartment and the 14 pin instrument cluster connector for yellow wire for the High Pressure (0.9 bar) sensor??

i.e. is it an unbroken wire with no connector all the way from the twin connector by the thermostat up to the 14 pin connector?

(this is the late in the MY 1986 with the effed up Bentley wiring diagrams...)
_________________
....