2.1 oil pressure questions

[deepseeman]

[Phaedrus]

1) Check your OP with mechanical gauge. Take note of your cold OP and hot OP. You may have to idle for a good while before your motor is 180* + and can get a decently accurate warm OP measurement. Or, take it for a drive and get it up to temp to where you're getting your buzzer, then take note of mechanical gauge pressure.

2) If your OP is bad, you can try a high flow, blueprinted oil pump, installed sans paper gasket (I think GoWesty has a write-up). You can also try shimming your OP relief spring slightly (search for threads).

2.5) If your OP is good, you've got a wiring issue. Potentially/probably bad/dirty grounds. Check/clean all of your grounds.

3) Your motor may have been assembled with poor clearances and just has bad OP. In this case, you need to rebuild or contact the rebuilder to talk about warranty.

Step 1 is to verify with a mechanical gauge what your OP actually is at all normal operating temperatures.
_________________
1986 WBX (Tin Top Camper)

[deepseeman]

So not a happy day today. Shifted to a synthetic 40w oil and my oil warning buzzers starting going crazy between 2200-2800 rpm's. I shifted back to a general 50w and didnt help out much. I finished installing my oil pressure gauge today and gave her a drive. My pressure started out well until i reached operating temps. Then it wouldnt go above 20psi. This motor is a GW with 70k on it. Am I in denial if I think its just the oil pump? Should I try replacing the relief spring? Im looking for a glimmer of hope. Thoughts?

oil pressure at idle: 3-4 psi oil light flickers
3500 rpm: 20psi
_________________
in the barn:

61' Double Cab-restored driver
91 SYNCRO

[Igeo]

I see now this is the same engine that is using oil (another thread....it would probably be best to keep this to one thread somehow). Either the engine has far more miles on it than advertised or it was run out of oil as was was suggested in the other thread. I don't thing throwing an oil pump at it will do much good. What kind of documentation do you have for this engine?
_________________
1987 Westfalia 2.1 WBX Manual

[deepseeman]

yep...this thread is more suiting, thats why I am sticking with this one. As far as documentation. I have the motor receipts and maintenance done since the engine install. I bought if off the second owner who owned it for 20+ years. He was an engineer and maintained the vehicle well. I will try a new pressure spring and see what it does. Guess Im accepting denial....lol
_________________
in the barn:

61' Double Cab-restored driver
91 SYNCRO

[Igeo]

Get the new spring and compare the relaxed length to the new one. If the new spring is a little longer, then the new one should help. You can shim it about 1.5 mm with a 1/4" washer too. Easy to try.
_________________
1987 Westfalia 2.1 WBX Manual

[DigiMatrix]

This might be something to look at if your engine was recently rebuilt/sealed. Was the oil pump cover re-sealed?, if so what was the gasket thickness for the oil pump cover?

When I re-sealed mine, the Victor Reinz gasket kit came with a gasket that was 0.014" thick instead of 0.004" thick and I didn't notice it. (First time working on a WBX) Once the engine was warm/hot, the oil pressure light came on at idle. Since in my situation, it was only a re-seal, I realized this issue, must have to do with what I had changed. I pulled the pump cover to find the gasket that was too thick. I then measured the pump gears to the cover plate and found I had the clearance to run without the gasket. I have had no problems since.

I know, bad practice on my part to not check and double check, but I also have never found a gasket that was too thick before.

[16CVs]

So my 2.1 DJ runs perfectly. I've noticed that when you turn the key on the light just flashes on for a split second. It does not stay on with key on and then off once started.
My take is there is something wrong. Shouldn't the light stay on until started? if yes, where should I look?
Any and all comments appreciated.

Stacy
_________________
1987 Syncro Westfalia Triple knob (bastard)
1989 Syncro Tristar Triple knob "Swedish"
2013 Jetta Hybrid a true "Zwitter"
Samba member # 14980
Call anytime number 650 722 4914 .
Keep Your van running and upkept tastefully for the love of the hobby.
Don't let your van end up in an "abortions" thread.

[crazyvwvanman]

Yes, with the key on but engine not running the light should be blinking forever.
The most likely cause is the wiring for the low pressure switch up between the left side pushrods.
A brown wire comes from each of the 2 oil pressure switches.
These 2 brown wires go to a 2 pin connector usually found near the thermostat housing.
That connector is subject to getting corroded contacts and/or damage to the wires so inspect this.
At that 2 pin connector the wires change color and the low pressure switch wire becomes blue/black. That blue/black next goes inside the engine compartment wiring box, to one of the two round pin connectors. That is another place where the problem could be.

Mark

[me4ou]

You might find this video useful. I started using 10W40 since I struggled a lot with low oil pressure while using 10W40. I guess it might not be well suited for colder climates, but for me it works perfect!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pl477GxEXFs

[Vana Guy]