:!: bucking at idle? starting fixed

[m2008s]

fixed starting issue, starts second or third crank. im very happy. grounds were bad, replaced the two (one from lh head and one from tranny) and kept the additional ground from the lower starter bolt to the frame as suggesgtd by tencent


now onto another issue...

the van doesnt have the "bucking syndrome" where it loses power while DRIVING, it bucks in gear at idle. sometimes it dies but it starts back up. anyone have this issue? it doesnt do it all the time... but when it does its not slight. it bucks and slams etc. put it in neutral and it stops... but as soon as its in gear and like.. ill drive and come to a stop it bucks and wants to die. the engine is timed correctly and etc, idle stablizer has been replaced (that thing died a while back and wouldnt let it start, tis fine now.). new plugs wires cap rotor all bosch all gapped correctly. 1984 1.9 wbx auto

let me know what you all think

[tencentlife]

There are normally two ground straps for the powertrain: one from the nose of the tranny to the frame there; one from the left head to the left wall of the engine compartment, right next to the FI and ignition grounds (clean these when you get the chance to keep FI gremlins at bay!). A ground right from the starter bolt makes sense, but isn't stock, I'll warrant. Your other ones may still be in place.

Make sure you also clean up the battery ground wire where it bolts to the frame. That one's in every circuit.

[m2008s]

thanks a load, should i just take off that random wire from the starter or put it back on and ground it to the frame?

[tencentlife]

I would keep it. I've been thinking of adding one there myself. It never made sense to me to ground the tranny so far from the starter.

[m2008s]

help?

[tencentlife]

Seems you edited out the bit about your extra grounding wire. Now my reply makes no sense.

The bucking and failure to idle sounds like the throttle body idle switch not closing.

[m2008s]

fixed lol ill check out that sensor.

[m2008s]

found this site via google: http://www.van-cafe.com/vanagonparts.jsp?pa=ip&ip=389083196

"Throttle switch and idle control components - The throttle switch must be both in working order and adjusted correctly. With the engine not running and key turned off, you manually operate the throttle arm back at the engine and see if you hear a click just as you move the throttle on and off the idle or relaxed position. If not, then you should attempt to adjust it. The throttle switch must be adjusted correctly so that the idle stabilizer computer (situated behind the passenger side tail light housing) and idle control valve kick into action when you are in idle mode. If the throttle switch is adjusted correctly and the idle either hangs up at high rpms or the vehicle is prone to stalling, then one of those two components is likely at fault. (Please review Bentley manual procedures on testing these two components). While you are here it's also wise to check the throttle body itself. When you grab the shaft you should be able to rotate it but should not witness significant movement if you try to rock it back and forth."

[tencentlife]

That article is decribing an '86+ with separate idle speed control module. Your '84 uses the Digital Idle Stabiliser, which you said you already replaced. It's confusing, I know, but the late version valves air around the throttle to control idle speed, while your DIS controls idle speed by ignition timing. They are both trying to do the same thing but by different methods.

The stuff about setting the throttle body switch is the same, though. The switch needs to be closed when the throttle closes, but open at the slightest tip-in. The specs and procedure are in your Bentley, and a search will turn up kazillions of threads here covering this, as it is one of the most common sources of bad idle complaints. One tip I can offer is to make sure to check the switch operation while warm and running, not just with the motor stopped. There is enough play in the old TB's that heat and engine vacuum can alter the switch operation so that it doesn't close consistently with a closed throttle, so you need to check it again under real operating conditions and may need to compensate the adjustment.