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Motorhead Porn (warning: many many pics)
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tencentlife
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 1:48 pm    Post subject: Motorhead Porn (warning: many many pics) Reply with quote

Without going into boo-coo technical details as I normally do, here's some pics taken while building the new 2.2 wbx I installed in my van about a month ago:

Painting the crankcase; old seals covered with tape were used to mask the seal bosses; extra nuts mask studs; old water pump masks the pump flange
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Old exhaust valves are a nice fit to mask the pushrod tube spigots
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Strong rare-earth magnets hold the valve stems together inside the case. This worked out really well and saved lots of time cutting tape to fit
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Old water jacket seal masked the jacket end. No need to cover it completely; just avoid spraying into the interior.
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Primer coated. Jones kept hanging around. I think he might be a secret huff-junky
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This is the oil pickup tube mod I do on wbx cases, to make it a direct suction feed to the pump without the overpressure return
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The overpressure return galley has to be ported back to the sump
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This case had its oil drain drilled out and was using a huge 5/8"-11 bolt as a plug, with many many stacked washers. I turned the bolt head down to fit within the drain hole boss, welded on a hex head, and pressed a small neodymium magnet into the end
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Plastigage strip ready to check rod bearing clearance
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Measuring after the fit; they were all nice like this one, which has between 1 and 2 thousandths clearance. Most were closer to 0.001", which is where I like it
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The bottom end laid up in the case, ready to close up. EMPI 5.5" chromoly rods, custom bushed for 24mm pins, ARP bolts. CB 2254 hydro cam. I'm reusing the main bearings with same case and crank because this engine's for me and they were in such great shape. Wbx bottom ends are bomber!
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Sealant bead on the right half, special attention around each stud hole so oil won't leak along the studs
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Setting up the crank endplay
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Shim pack in, mainseal in, new o-ring in flywheel, ready to bolt up
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Gotta hold it down steady for the 80ft.lb. torque on the flywheel bolts
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Then it's gotta be hoisted back onto the stand
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Mocked up with the 96mm QSC pistons on the 5.5" rods, the cuts to make zero deck have to be determined. Zero the dial at zero deck
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And measure each piston in place to see how much is proud. This one had the most: 1.89mm has to come off
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Centering up a piston on a faceplate fixture
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And giving it a haircut
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Final check, zero deck
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Rings compressed and knocking it into the jug
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Final installing #1 piston and cylinder
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Both banks done
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Checking combustion chambers on new AMC heads for equal volume with a syringe and acrylic plate
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Some light port work
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Both heads on
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Close fit on the crossover pipe with the CB Maxipump. Oil temp sender is in place of the OEM hi-range OP switch
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Easier to do all this little plumbing upside-down on a stand
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The old S&S header (the header that just won't die) fitted up. Jaycee telescoping tubes
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Trasko filter; Mocal t-stat sandwich adapter regulates oil flow to the external cooler
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Detail of the left head. I wrap the water suction pipe with Reflectix tape since it runs so close to the exhaust collector and the #4 runner
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Ready to get stuffed
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Ridin' the trolley
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Lleniendo
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Home again, home again, jiggidy-jig
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Notice the hole in the muffler heat shroud. Makes it easy to put a large ratchet and socket on the crank pulley nut. Wish I'da thoughta this a long time ago. Also, block, alternator and other grounds ganged on the unused fuel pump flange stud.
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One last mod to make coolant filling easier; drilled out and ported the radiator bleeder bolt. So much easier to deal with when the water's squirting out!
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Hope you enjoyed watching as much as I did building.
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funagon
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 4:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow, thanks for posting. I'm living vicariously through your engine projects while I lack the workspace or time to build the engine I'd like.

I like the black case with silver heads. Do those new AMC heads have the AMC valves in them, or did you replace them/have a valve job done?
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tencentlife
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 4:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

They got new German exhaust valves, and I ground the keepers for the right fit. That's what you need to do to the AMC's out of the box. I also hand-lapped the valves, which is my preference, but not strictly necessary.

Their seat cutting is pretty good. On the money dimensionally. They could use a 75deg. inside cut to make the intakes flow a bit better. The third angle doesn't matter so much on exhausts.


Last edited by tencentlife on Sun Sep 16, 2007 5:55 pm; edited 1 time in total
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j8
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 5:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

oh, my.

/awe

nice work, man.
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Mathew Zelezen
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 5:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

WOW!
I painted mine to look like its covered in mud oil rust and random leaks... but to each their own... Very Happy
Looks awesome buddy!
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tencentlife
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 5:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine will get that treatment in time. All that red stuff's just primer!
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VWGirl
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 6:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wow, nice work! my 1st vanagon engine rebuild is coming up... i can only hope to get it to work, let alone make it as nice as yours!
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?Waldo?
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 6:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great work. Nice pics. I've never completely torn down a WBX. Done a few type-4's and type 1's. One question, no sealant around the main bearing saddle bolt holes? I always used to on the type-4's. Where does that weep to in the waterboxer?

Andrew
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iceracer
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 6:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome 10c! Makes me frothy to build another 2.2 You definitely have come up with some way cool ways to reengineer a few things. And may I say those are very sexy pistons, jesus!!!!!!!! I was hoping you would shows us pictures of this new buildup. Keep on keepin on! Very Happy
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McHuntley
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 6:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How well does the 2.2 behave?
Better HP? Better MPH?

Also, I do not recognize the two blue hoses coming over the top of the engine.

Awesome looking job.

Matt
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tencentlife
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 6:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, y'all.

Andrew, oil will weep down the main saddle stud bores, but is kept in by the nuts that go on the ends. Four capnuts are within the right side water jacket, the other two plain nuts with washers are outside the jacket alongside the bellhousing flange. I use sealant on the seats of the nuts. Putting some of the Reinzosil or Dirko around the bolts, too, probably isn't a bad idea. I think my rationale at the time was so as not to affect the crush on the bearing saddles at all. There is coolant under low pressure on one side, and oil under no presure on the other, so sealing the water from getting in under the nuts is the primary concern. I haven't ever had leakage under those nuts so just sealing the nut seats does the job. That's the treatment on all the head nuts, too, and they all have hot pressurised water behind them.

FYI, this is built using these new Chinese pistons by QSC. Cheap stuff, only $200 a set, but the casting and machining work is decent and clearances are correct. They are 96mm diameter, so they make a 2.2 on a stock 76mm stroke crank. The come with new cylinder sleeves that are cast for 96mm, not bored out from stock sleeves, so the sleeves are thicker.

The problem with the pistons is, the wrist pins are too high in the piston, so in a stock setup they would be about 0.9mm below deck, giving low compression just like the Cofap Brazilian ones and the AA Chinese ones. Seems to be an international conspiracy to make us suffer from low compression. But all of these are good candidates for using a 0.1" longer rod, which puts the piston top over deck, and cutting down the piston tops to both correct the deck to zero and at the same time reduce the piston dish volume. In this setup it resulted in a 9.72:1 static CR. With the cam I'm using, dynamic CR is 8.7:1 at sea level, but only 7.7:1 at my typical driving altitude (7 to 8 dynamic CR is a good range for pump gas).

I'm trying these as a test. This motor will likely be torn down in a year so I can see how they hold up.

The other problem with the piston set is that the wrist pins are too long, which I've notified them of so they should fix that, and the ringset they supply is unusable. I anticipated the rings being crap, so no surprise there, and I had Deves make up a custom set for me.

Matt, the blue hoses go to an external oil cooler. Story about that setup here:
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=102662

Power out of this motor is good, really nice bottom-end torque, although it could have more up high if I had a bigger diameter exhaust. I'm going to make up my own in 1 5/8" tubing as soon as I can. The large overlap on this cam needs better breathing in the upper revs, and I think then it will make much more power there. Idle is pretty lumpy, though: this cam is 308deg. advertised duration, in hydro grind. So basically, motor is built, but I'm still tuning.
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?Waldo?
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 8:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tencentlife wrote:
Andrew, oil will weep down the main saddle stud bores, but is kept in by the nuts that go on the ends. Four capnuts are within the right side water jacket, the other two plain nuts with washers are outside the jacket alongside the bellhousing flange. I use sealant on the seats of the nuts. Putting some of the Reinzosil or Dirko around the bolts, too, probably isn't a bad idea. I think my rationale at the time was so as not to affect the crush on the bearing saddles at all. There is coolant under low pressure on one side, and oil under no presure on the other, so sealing the water from getting in under the nuts is the primary concern. I haven't ever had leakage under those nuts so just sealing the nut seats does the job. That's the treatment on all the head nuts, too, and they all have hot pressurised water behind them.


Sounds good to me. Great work. Thanks for the Porn! Laughing

Andrew
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mellow cat
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 8:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bravo !

sure is purty...I really like the oil sump mod.

MC
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Lanval
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 9:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Outstanding work, outstanding post!

Impressive in manifold ways ~ thanks for the pix and write-up; it's really a great little instructional post. Thanks again,

Lanval
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?Waldo?
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 9:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like your bleeder mod. I use the rotary tool and cut a channel in the threads being careful not to hit the sealing surface.

Andrew
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Chuck77
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 9:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think you may be on to something here Tencent. I was amazed at your solar/dual battery set up, your household set up and then this takes the cake. I would pay good money to see your personal version of the Bentley.... Keep up the good work!
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Alan Brase
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 10:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, the rods are.100" longer? What are they made to fit? And you said by CB, right? How much for those?
I'm a little foggy on what is the purpose of the oil pickup mod.
Al
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reiney
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 10:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice job!

I see you used those intake parts in the goodie box I
included w/ the motor Wink

R.
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 11:26 pm    Post subject: Just Awesome Reply with quote

What a job you've done, dear fellow! And thank you so much for documenting what you've done and for passing the information on.

A bored-and-stroked 1.9 is my most likely choice for when Winston's motor finally needs the treatment--may that day be long off! I hope the people who are building the engines for sale are noting the hard work of inventors and experimenters such as yourself.

Thank You!

Best!
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Crankey
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 11:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

very sexy
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